Central Western Slope and Plains Guide

Summary:

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Bloc, Escalade traditionnelle et autres styles

Lat / Long: -32.347924, 148.214147

Limitations de l'accès

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

hérité de New South Wales and ACT

Summary:

La plupart Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -31.282894, 149.005306

résumé

Perhaps the greatest concentration of high quality, long routes to be found anywhere in Australia. Adventurous routes in a remote, beautiful setting.

description

The four main climbing areas in the Warrumbungles (Crater Bluff, Belougery Spire, Tonduron and Bluff Mountain)offer some of the best long routes in the country, as well as perhaps the greatest concentration of long routes to be found anywhere in Australia. All this in a spectacular setting of towering, rocky spires, thin blades of rock 100 metres high and 200 metre plus cliffs seemingly everywhere you look. The routes, however, are generally fairly serious, irrespective of the grade. This however, just adds to the sense of adventure one inevitably experiences when climbing in the Warrumbungles. As well as the sheer beauty of the climbs and their setting the routes in the Warrumbungles, being one of the oldest climbing areas in Australia, are rich in history. I can't picture climbing to the top or Belougery Spire without imagining how Eric Dark and Osmar White must have felt when they reached the summit for the first time in 1932, nor can l climb Lieben without sparing a thought for Ted Batty and his famous pair or sand-shoes! In the Warrumbungles, more than in any place I know, there is something more to the climbs than just a series of moves. All in all, the Warrumbungles are wonderful. They are home to some magnificent climbs, and I hope you, too, have the opportunity to experience their special charm.

Mark Colyvan 'The Warrumbungles' Insert for Rock No 20, 1994

For most of the routes in the Bungles a double rack of cams, a single set of nuts and a few smaller hexes along with as many slings as you can get your hands on make for a great rack. Alternatively, you could opt for a more traditional and lighter rack and with a single set of cams, two sets of nuts and a full, glorious set of hexes most of the climbs could be managed quite safely. Also make sure you have access to double ropes for many of the climbs as this will make rope management easier and safer.

Due to the difficulty (and inconsistencies) in describing routes in the Warrumbungles it is suggested that you take any other available route descriptions available. The most comprehensive version is found at: http://www.sydneyclimbing.com/confluence/display/nswrock/Warrumbungles

approche

The Warrumbungle National Park is located in the NW of New South Wales just west of Coonabarabran on the Newell Hwy. It is reached by driving to Coonabarabran and following the well-signposted road past Siding Spring Observatory to the park (about 33 km).

http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/Warrumbungle-National-Park

où dormir

Camp Blackman is the main campsite to base adventures, it has powered and unpowered sites, toilets and hot showers.

Most climbers choose to stay in or camp near Balor Hut, a one·and·a·half hour walk up the hill from Camp Pincham, which is where the car is left (the trail head to the Grand High Tops walk). The Balor Hut campsite offers tankwater (although as the tank sometimes runs dry it is wise to check with the rangers first) and access to Belougery Spire, Crater Bluff and Bluff Mountain. Access to other areas is described under the relevant sections.

There is also primitive but beautiful camping (no facilities) at Dows Camp (at Nuada Saddle) which is close to Bluff Mountain, this is best accessed via the West Spirey Creek Track rather than hiking the Pincham Creek Trail and past Balor Hut.

Bookings can be be made online via the NSW National Parks website.

There is Testra and Optus mobile coverage throughout much of the climbing area including from the ridge near Balor Hut. This includes the main face of Bluff Mountain.

historique

This history as well as most of the route descriptions were adapted (with permission) from Mark Colyvan's guide 'The Warrumbungles' which was an insert to Rock Magazine Issue 20, 1994.

The climbing history of the Warrumbungles begins with the first rockclimbing club in Australia, the Blue Mountaineers, a very informal group of climbers led by the legendary Eric Dark. Besides Dark, the club's core consisted of Eric Lowe. Osmar White, Dot English (later Dot Butler), Dark's wife Eleanor and the mysterious Louis Brant who wrote an article for Walkabout in 1936 about the group's activities in the Warrumbungles, including himself in many of their ascents despite receiving no mention in accounts given by any of the others. (I suspect that Louis Brant may have been a pen-name for Eric Lowe, who was well on his way to becoming a famous writer).

Eric Dark was inspired to visit the Warrumbungles after seeing pictures on the walls of the local railway station in Mittagong around the turn of the century. It was not until 1932, however, that he finally managed to get there, accompanied by his wife, Lowe, White and perhaps Brant. They were first taken to Tonduron by the local farmer, JL Mcintyre, on whose property the magnificent spire lay. Mcintyre apparently wanted to see whether the group could really climb, so he ignored the usual ascent route and took them to the more difficult south side. The five of them, Mcintyre included, then proceeded to climb to the summit, most probably by what we now know as South Arête (5).

They then moved camp to a spot near the head of Tunderbrine Creek in order to have a go at Crater Bluff (then known as Split Rock) and Belougery Spire, the latter having been proclaimed as 'impossible' by the locals in the pub. Dark and White attempted Crater Bluff by what may have been Diagonal Route but failed some 30 m short of the top. The same pair then turned their attention to Belougery Spire and, after a couple or false starts, managed to make the summit of this spectacular spire by what was almost certainly the Tourist Traverse (6), much to the amazement of the locals!

It is interesting to note that the route Dark and White eventually took to the summit of Belougery Spire had been seen by Dark through field-glasses from Wombelong and that he had commented at the time that the key to reaching the summit lay in attaining the obvious traverse on the West Face. This indicated that the group's success in the Warrumbungles was no fluke-Dark, at least, was very methodical and had a keen eye for a feasible route.

The next trip to the area was undertaken by Dark and Lowe (or 'Louis Brant', depending on which account you believe) in 1935, with the intention of doing some 'gentle prospecting of possible routes up Split Rock'. They looked at a number of possibilities, in the process making a rather ambitious attempt on Rib and Gully.

The following year a larger group returned, with Crater Bluff their main objective. After a little more exploration, Dark and English climbed to the summit by the Tourist Route (9). The next day the young, barefooted English took the rest of the group to the summit, including Suzanne Reichard who later wrote an account of the ascent in the Sun newspaper.

This was the last recorded visit to the Warrumbungles by the Blue Mountaineers and the group drifted apart soon afterwards. While their contributions in the way of new routes in the Warrumbungles are of no great technical interest by today's standards, they stand as monuments to the audacity and adventurous spirit of these pioneer rockclimbers and their primitive equipment, which consisted of a rope and a hand-made cast-iron piton.

The next recorded activity in the Warrumbungles was not until the mid-1950s when a member of the then recently formed Sydney Rockclimbing Club (SAC), Russ Kippax, teamed up with a visiting English climber, Bill Peascod. This pair made the first ascent of the Bread-knife by South Arete (11) in 1954 and in the same year established Vintage Rib on Crater Bluff. At grade Hard V Diff (15), this latter was the hardest route in the area for six years and remained unrepeated for a decade. The exact route they took is not certain, but it was definitely the best route in the area until the early 1960s. The same year saw the first ascent of Rib and Gully (13) on Crater Bluff by C. lvin and party.

By the late 1950s the Warrumbungles had become a popular destination among SAC regulars, with the resulting establishment of a number of good new routes such as, in 1956, North Arete (13) on the Bread-knife by Kippax, Dave Roots, Jeff Field and Peter Hardy and, two years later, Diagonal Route (15) on Crater Bluff by Hardy and Field. Also of note from this period was Ted Batty's and Ron Malor's North Face Route on Crater Bluff which, at grade 17, was a very hard route for 1960. In fact, it was quite possibly the first grade 17 in Australia! The following year saw the first ascent of Vertigo (10) on Belougery Spire by Roger McDonald and Alex Hromas.

Nineteen sixty-one also saw the return to Australia of Bryden Allen, bringing with him the first pair of PAs (which, for the benefit of the youngsters, were an early type of climbing-boot). Allen wasted little time in making an impact on the Warrumbungles with ascents of Lieben (17), Out and Beyond (15) and the direct version of Kevin and Trevor Westren's route Cornerstone Rib, all climbed with Ted Batty in 1962. Apart from his obvious ability as a climber, Allen's major contribution to the Australian climbing scene was his choice of routes. He was attracted to big, blank-looking walls that were years ahead of their time. Lieben is a perfect example of Allen's vision; even today, with the advantages of modem equipment, many climbers have some fairly anxious moments on this route.

Try to imagine doing it in 1962 with the equipment Allen and Batty had available to them Batty didn't even have boots; he climbed it in sand-shoes! In 1963 Allen published 'The Rockclimbs of NSW' which contained 18 routes in the Warrumbungles. This number was soon exceeded, however, as Allen continued the new-routing spree during that year. Perhaps the most significant route of 1963 was Heart-stopper (18) on the West Face of the Bread-knife, climbed by Allen and a young, inexperienced Chris Regan who was apparently in full accord with the choice of name! In hindsight, this route was quite possibly the first grade 18 in Australia (the first grade 17 (North Face Route) was also in the Bungles)! Allen continued working on the Bread-knife in 1964 with the first ascent of the East Face route (17,M2).

Nineteen sixty-four was significant for other reasons, however. By that time all major peaks in the area had numerous routes on them; the one notable exception was the impressive North Face or Bluff Mountain. This face was home to only one route, North West Gully (10), which had been established by lvin, Montgomery and Griffiths in 1960, and even this was well to one side of the main face. Allen set about rectifying this situation, choosing a bold route up the middle of the highest part of this 300 m cliff. The resulting climb, Elijah (17), was undoubtedly the most serious hard climb in Australia at that time and a portent of things to come on Bluff Mountain. In an interview in 1972 Allen had this to say about the route:

‘Elijah took us eight days actual climbing before we did it, most of that retreating and going back again. I started off with two attempts with Ted Batty, two with John Davis and finally finished it off with John Ewbank, and event then I had to offer to pay for all his food for a week to get him up there (Thrutch No 58, December 1972).

The other reason why 1964 was a significant year in the Warrumbungles was that it saw the name of John Ewbank appear on new-route descriptions there for the first time. He opened his account with a 315 m girdle traverse of the West Face of the Bread-knife and the Butter-knife with John Davis, called Broadsword (16). Ewbank, of course, would go on to dominate the hard new route scene in the second half of the 1960s, not just in the Warrumbungles but throughout New South Wales.

The most significant additions of 1965 were by Allen (again!) and John Davis-who did the first hard route on Tonduron with Northern Groove (18) and by John Lawrence and David Witham who did Caucasus Corner (17) on Belougery Spire. As already mentioned, the latter half of the 1960s belonged to John Ewbank. On Boxing Day 1966, climbing with John Worrall, he managed to establish a sustained and exposed route right of Lieben which Allen had previously attempted in 1964. The result was The Crucifixion (16). Throughout 1966 and 1967, however, Ewbank mostly concentrated on short, hard routes on the Butter-knife and the Fish-knife such as The Rapier (19) and Cutlass (16).

The next routes of any significance to be done were in 1969 when the powerful team of Ewbank and Allen forced two major new lines up Bluff Mountain. First in April, came Ginsberg (17,M1) and then Stonewall Jackson (17,M4) in October.

Nineteen sixty-nine also saw a number of repeats of some of the harder 'Bungles routes by a new crowd of young climbers. Amongst them were a couple of names that would pop up time and time again on new routes in the 'Bungles, particularly on Bluff Mountain: Keith Bell and Keith Lockwood. In the 1970s attention turned to Bluff Mountain and eventually to Tonduron. In December 1972 Bell and Greg Mortimer established two new routes on Bluff Mountain on the one trip. Although, as Lockwood commented, 'such domination of the cliff was new and startling' (Rock no 3, 1980), it was a taste of things to come, especially in the case of Bell. The first of these two ground-breaking routes was Icarus (19) which opened up the right-hand end of the cliff, while the second, done after a rest-day, took a more obvious line up the extreme left end of the main face. The latter route, Bastion Buttress (13), provides a lovely introduction to the cliff. The following year Lockwood visited Tonduron with Ray Lassman and managed to do A Little Rainbow (19) after the almost obligatory epic.

Nineteen seventy-three saw the publication of the first edition of 'Rockclimbing in the Warrumbungles' by Andrew Pavey and Warwick Williams, which described over 50 climbs in the area, the hardest being grade 19.

The following year Bell returned to claim another two routes on Bluff Mountain, this time with Lassman. The first was the wall between Ginsberg and Icarus, which yielded one of Bluff Mountain's hardest routes to date: Ulysses (20). The other route, which had looked as though it might have been harder, was to become one of the most popular classics in the 'Bungles. It was, of course, Flight of the Phoenix (16). Kim Carrigan was also busy on Bluff Mountain in 1974. First, he freed Stonewall Jackson at grade 20 with Jan Lewis; then the same pair attempted a new route between Elijah and Ginsberg below looming roofs. It turned into a nightmare epic on bad rock, minimal protection and poor belays. They retreated, and Lewis vowed never to go near Bluff Mountain again. Carrigan returned later that year with Nat Nicholas to complete the route. The result was Aladinsane (19).

In 1974, Bell also made a couple of trips to Tonduron. The first, with Mortimer, resulted in Virago (20) and Saratoga (17); the second, with Ian 'Humzoo' Thomas, produced Antares (19). The following year, Allen made a brief return to the Warrumbungles, climbing North-west Groove (15), also on Tonduron, with Williams. Meanwhile, back on Bluff Mountain, 1975 produced no new routes but instead was a period of consolidation in which many major routes received their second ascents. Lockwood and Peter Morris, for example, claimed the second ascent, and first free ascent, of Ginsberg (now 19).

In 1976 a few more routes were added to Bluff Mountain. Bell and Mortimer climbed Daedalus (19,M1) on the right end of the cliff and attempted a girdle of the whole North Face. The latter, rather ambitious project produced Rim-fire (17), a 480 m route starting up Bastion Buttress and finishing up Ginsberg alter traversing above the middle roofs. Bell described the exposure as 'shattering'. It was also in this year that Lockwood and John Bowen made a weekend dash from Melbourne to do the classic London's Dockyard (19) which takes a line between Stonewall Jackson and Flight of the Phoenix. As though doing a major new route on a weekend trip from Melbourne wasn't epic enough, on the way back they blew up the engine in Lockwood's Volkswagen and had to limp home in second gear!

In September 1976 Joe Friend published the second edition or Rockclimbing in the Warrumbungles, which described over 80 routes, the hardest being graded 20. Since the release of that guide there has been a great deal of activity in the Warrumbungles with, as you would expect, most of it occurring on Bluff Mountain (and much of it by Keith Bell!). Unfortunately, however, very little information has been available since the 1976 guide, resulting in many new routes being climbed without prior knowledge of the existing climbs. Consequently, there are likely to be a number of routes in his guide which are not really new routes. No doubt it will be some time before matters are sorted out. There have been few major developments since 1976. Most of the routes established have been of a similar quality and nature to those already existing. These years saw further epic weekend jaunts from Melbourne by Lockwood with a variety of partners. One Friday night in September 1977 Lockwood and Ed Neve made the 13·hour drive to the Warrumbungles, then, without sleeping, walked up to Balor Hut and dumped their camping gear. Continuing on to Bluff Mountain, the pair climbed Flight of the Phoenix as a warm-up, taking about three hours (Lockwood had done it before). They then returned to Balor Hut to sleep. They were up at dawn the next day and again headed for Bluff Mountain, this time to do a classic new route, Neruda (18), near Ginsberg. This took them most or the day. Upon completing it they picked up their gear from the hut, walked back to the car and drove through the night to arrive back in Melbourne on Monday morning!

The next most significant bout of new routes was in May 1982 during a visit from three of Australia's top climbers of the period, Mark Moorhead, Kim Carrigan and Mike Law. By the end of their visit there were three major new climbs on Bluff Mountain, all harder than grade 20, the hardest being Cracked Pane (24) which was four grades harder than anything else in the Warrumbungles at the time and still remains the area's most difficult routes. The other routes completed by this trio were Lusty's (21) and For Starters (23).

Three other climbers deserve special mention for their contributions to new routes in the Warrumbungles during this time. Keith Bell, Greg Croft and Joe Friend. Keiths love of Bluff Mountain was illustrated by his name being on 21 of the 39 routes documented on that cliff. Given the size of the mountain and the seriousness of the routes, this is truly an impressive record. Greg (and often Dan Croft) was on the first ascent of nearly 60 routes in the early 1990's. Mostly on Timor Rock, Belougery Spire, The Needle, Canyon Cliffs and Balckman's Bluff. Joe went on a solo bender in 1976 and soloed 16 first ascents, totaling nearly 1,200m and up to grade 18. Bold!

Not many routes were recorded between 1994 and 2010, when Neil Monteith and Mike Law focused on new routes on Crater Bluff. They established several pitches linking to existing routes and the formidable Verdun (24) which bought an unprecedented level of bolting to the area.

A new route was finally added to Bluff Mountain in 2012 (after about 20 years) with Corinth (21) being added near Bastion Buttress by Peter Grezl and Peter Kuczera.

There are obviously many names and stories not mentioned in this rather selective history of rockclimbing in the Warrumbungles. Please feel free to add more, especially in regard to crags other than the major spires.

Summary:

This fairly major, walled peak is about 5 km NE of the Needle. The peak has three main faces, the left and middle of which are the highest. There is a fine descent gully through the middle (Head Wall) face and the long north bluffs (Whale-back Crag). The left bluff (Tower Bluff) breaks up to south where there is one route so far.

Limitations de l'accès

Access is through private property. The 1994 guide recommended phoning Coonabarabran Bushwalking Club. Please update this section if you have any information about how to gain access.

Summary:

Tous Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -31.298164, 149.016444

description

These cliffs are located 6 km inside the park from the east entrance, on the north side of the road.

Summary:

Tous Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -31.330787, 148.999573

description

Belougery Spire is the first of many breath-taking rock features encountered en route to the Grand High Tops.

The climbs of Belougery Spire include both short and long routes, varying in grade from easy to more difficult, with the 'Warrumbungles factor' of route-finding adding to the difficulties.

approche

From Camp Pincham, follow the hiking trail to the Grand High Tops. From here, a vague track leads northeast following a ridge to the base of the spire. To get to start of climbs either scramble onto half-way ledge or walk down the left side or right side of the spire. One other, adventurous, option is to approach the spire's climbs from Hurleys Campsite.

Edit: July 2021 on descent we encountered the following anchors, one homemade hanger backed up with tat, two new chains then a decent sling on a tree, all less than 30m apart. Route down was clean and clearly marked. With double ropes it was possible to do one easy scramble, a 50m rap from the first chain anchor and one more easy scramble to finish descent. Entirely pleasant.

Descent from the spire can be quite serious. From the summit saddle, at the log-book container, scramble down to a boulder between the middle and south summits where there is a bolt with a home made hanger on it as well as a sling. From here you can abseil down on a single 60m (or scarily scramble) to a set of chains from which you can either abseil to a half way ledge with at least two 50m ropes or abseil to a rethread point with a single 60m and then down once more. From here you can then do some minor scrub bashing straight down to the end of the half way ledge and rap off some trees (unknown distance but definitely less than 50m). This will end you up right in the approach/exit gulley and you can walk off from here.

If walking off in the dark, it is advisable to stick close to the top of the ridge as it is an easy feature to follow and the bush is not very dense up there. If you do this you will eventually end up on the grand high tops walking track.

Many of the topo lines have been drawn from poor quality topos or from the descriptions. Please don't rely on them too heavily and update them once you have completed any of these routes, if required

Summary:

Either follow the southern side of the cliff line up from the Dagda Shortcut, or down from the Grand High Tops track.

Summary:

Tous Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -31.325921, 148.995687

description

The peak that is about 50m north of Balor Hut. It is also the cliff/peak you see on your right as you go up the first major set of stairs on the way to Balour Hut.

The north face is about 100m high, is quite broken and has a variety of rock quality. The south face is short but offers some fun top-roping that is very convenient for people staying at the hut. There are many more top roping options than listed here. Rigging top ropes is quite difficult though due to the lack of placements at the top of the crag.

approche

To get to the main cliff (north face), cut straight across to the cliff from the stairs or walk north past the dunny at Balor Hut and follow the gully down for about 3 minutes.

To get to the top-roping area (south face) walk about 50 m north west of the hut.

Summary:

Tous Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -31.337490, 148.995733

description

One of the four prominent spires in the Park. This peak offers some of the most popular routes in the 'Bungles. Despite initial appearances, Crater Bluff is not flat on top-the peak is in fact carved by deep canyons, the deepest and most extensive of which is filled with ferns and is known as the Green Glacier.

Home to the much loved "Cornerstone Rib".

Climbs are described right to left from Tourist Route.

Many of the topo lines have been drawn from poor quality topos or from the descriptions. Please don't rely on them too heavily and update them once you have completed any of these routes, if required.

approche

Approach from Dagda gap, located at the junction of grand high tops and the dagda shortcut, the latter of which is the much quicker approach.

Follow the faint and discontinuous climber's path next to the signs down to a creek, follow it's left bank till it crosses another creek below the west face. If you follow the track up diagonally left you arrive below the gully that leads up to the face and from here you can continue up, past an enormous boulder, to the wall, arriving near the start of Lieben.

This is where the descent from the green glacier ends up too and it is a good place to leave bags, however the descent involves scrambling and scrub bashing so carrying shoes is recommended. For Cornerstone Rib, scramble up left along the base, to the far north west corner (the highest point). The start is at an about 50m further around at a fairly obvious slabby buttress.

The normal descent is down "Green Glacier", a canyon that splits the summit and can safely be descended with a single 70m rope. From the top of Cornerstone Rib it is the obvious right hand canyon that has a fairly defined track leading down into it. Abseil anchors can be seen about 15m down, which will confirm you're in the correct gully.

The descent is relatively straight forward, however it involves a couple hundred metres of scrambling/abseiling down the canyon, followed by abseil and can be tricky in the dark or wet; take care and rope up when necessary. The first optional abseil is near the top of the canyon and is an easy down climb if dry. The chains are on the far right of the canyon (looking down). You follow a vague path down about 12m and they are on the right wall just below a small tree. There are other anchors on the way down, mainly tat on trees for use if it's wet or dark. Following this is the long gully scramble. The first obligatory rap station is where the canyon abruptly ends at the waterfall. Chains are at knee height on the left wall. Its a 30m rap to the terrace. Alternatively if wet, 60m doubles will get you from the bug anchor on the last tree to the bottom of the waterfall. From here walk down and right (facing out from the cliff), following the many, many cairns, about 20m, and scramble down a short gully, walk right (facing out) 8m or so, then scramble up onto a block. The rap chains are about 6m away from the wall, slightly over the edge and a little hard to spot but fairly safe to get to. The final rap is past one good ledge at 20m to a large ledge at 35m where you can walk off easily. If you rap all the way to the ground, 50m or so, it is harder to pull your ropes and they get stuck on the big ledge and then pull rocks on your head.

From here it is easy to orientate yourself and wander back to the trail you walked in on.

Summary:

Tous Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -31.327988, 148.977571

description

Few cliffs in Australia compare to the North Face of Bluff Mountain in terms of height and seriousness but its special quality derives from the astounding number of top-class routes it offers. A word of warning, however-any climb on Bluff Mountain is a serious undertaking, with ascent, route-finding and retreat all difficult propositions. These routes can be expected to take a full day, if not longer.

For most of the routes on this wall a double rack of cams from BD 0.3 to 3 along with maybe a single no. 4 and a few smaller ones make for a excellent rack. Combine this with a single set of nuts and a few smaller hexes and you'll be plugging in protection where ever you want. Alternatively, with a single set of cams, a double set of nuts, a full set of hexes and some gear placing wizardry, these routes would also be quite manageable, if slightly more exciting. It is also important to make sure you extend almost every placement to within an inch of its life as many of the routes wander and not having to worry about rope drag makes everything more enjoyable.

Home to the classic "Flight of the Pheonix".

Many of the topo lines have been drawn from poor quality topos or from the descriptions. Please don't rely on them too heavily and update them once you have completed any of these routes, if required.

approche

Approaching Bluff Mountain can be tricky and it is worth sussing out the access before an early start on your chosen mega climb.

résumé

A remote spire offering truly adventurous routes. The harder lines are some of the strongest looking in the Bungles with true cracks, semi detached pinnacles and huge roof cracks. Full value !

description

This impressive rocky dome/spire offers climbing somewhat different in character from that on other major peaks. The lines are generally more prominent, while the holds frequently are not.

Climbs are descried clockwise from South Arete.

Limitations de l'accès

Prior access to get the code for a locked gates needs to be obtained from the Park visitor center. No problems have been experienced by the author to date. Be respectful and keep access good.

approche

Tonduron can be approached from the Grand High Tops if you don't mind a bit of a walk (in fact all four major spires Belougery, Crater Bluff, Tonduron and the Needle -have been climbed in a day using this approach).

The usual access, however, is from near Gunneemooroo campsite in the south part of the park.

It is a 90 minute walk to the base of the west ridge from. The campsite. Follow the river for about 400 m then continue up a creek bed that leads to the saddle west of Tonduron. If you get the right creek, you need to leave it when it starts to contour under the north face, and head up steep talus slopes on goat tracks.

The Naman firetrail does take you closer, but a sign at the start says it is closed to vehicular traffic, and it is a long mountain bike. It is worth seeking permission from NPWS Warrumbungle office, and something ACANSW/ NW regional climbing coalition will be advocating for.

A 4WD/ AWD is necessary with decent clearance and should only be done if dry and if NPWS have given permission.

Directions:

From John Renshaw Pkwy a few km west of Tooraweenah follow National Park signs towards Guneemooroo campground on Mount Terrace rd.

After travelling through private land for some distance the park gate (often locked) is reached. To get to Tonduron turn right immediately after the gate on to Namen Trail. Going straight on Guneemooroo Trail goes to the camp site. The campsite is quite nice and we'll worth staying at.

Namen Trail heads be-musingly south for some time away from the action and goes through paddocks on the south side of a long rocky escarpment. The road then heads north into forest with some steep climbs and creek crossings and passes cool escarpments and outcrops.

After 7 Km a T intersection with Yootha Trail is reached. Turn left and the road begins to climb up the southern flank of the spire with great views of its south and western flanks.

A clearing on the southern side is reached after 3.6 km and is the parking point. If you turn east and go down a steep hill you've gone to far.

Its a short but steepish walk following faint goat tracks to a small saddle then to the west and south ridges.

The best decent is to scramble down slabs and ramps between West Ridge and Southern Gully.

Summary:

Tous Escalade traditionnelle

description

This rocky plateau is E of Tonduron and is home to only two recorded routes, both on the E Face.

approche

Access and camping as for Tonduron.

Summary:

La plupart Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -31.351616, 149.021427

description

Follow the sign from the CBD to the Japanese Gardens. Drive up Len Whitely Drv, which turns into Scenic Drv. Follow the road up the hill aproximatly 150m from the Japanese Gardens car park. There is a lookout, park here.

approche

Walk around the high point marker, some good boulders and below the hill on the southern side. There are also a few good ones on the ridge track heading north/west.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -33.826309, 148.690604

description

More granite boulders at the bottom of the hill. The quality here is slightly better than up the top of the hill at Bellevue Reserve.

approche

Off Scenic drv, park next to the netball courts/oval on the southern end. Turn around and the boulders are 10m away.

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -32.593829, 149.741835

résumé

Mudgee is a town 3 hours northwest of Sydney in New South Wales, Australia. It's known for its colonial buildings. The surrounding countryside has dozens of wineries.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -32.429097, 149.820714

résumé

Free standing boulders of varying size and rock quality. Currently being developed by local climbers.

Note: There's patchy reception at the top of the hills/cliffs, but best to load guides/etc. prior

description

For a quick list of the top climbs and projects in the area, check out the list

Best of Mudgee

Shoalhaven group coarse grain to lithic sandstone

Limitations de l'accès

Environment:: Munghorn Gap National Park is home to some sensitive flora and fauna species. Please be mindful when cleaning or exploring new boulders and stay on the developing tracks where they exist (it'll be nicer for you too). Only clean areas of the boulder which require cleaning. There is no need to clean the entire boulder, only areas where holds are. Please avoid using wire brushes wherever possible so that the sandstone of the area is not damaged. Lichen in almost all cases can be removed easily with a stiff bristled brush like a grout brush with a follow up with a soft bristle brush or bouldering brush to remove loose material.
Rubbish and Litter: The area is currently very clean from litter but you may come across litter on the side of the road. There has also been past prospecting, blacksmithing, mining, travel and grazing in the area by early European settlers. Therefore its not unusual to come in contact with some old relics from these times. In most cases this will be old glass bottles, rusty food tins, metal or cans. These can be removed and disposed of presuming its not anything of obvious significance or importance. If you see rubbish, please remove it when you leave. It goes without saying to take all your rubbish with you.
Aboriginal Sites:: Munghorn Gap National Park still is and was an important location to Aboriginal people. Climbers should be cognisant and respectful of this by avoiding putting up routes/problems around identified Aboriginal Sites. Always perform a visual check of the rock first to ensure it doesn't contain any Aboriginal artwork. A search has been taken with the Aboriginal Heritage Information Management System to ensure that sectors are not being developed near currently identified Aboriginal sites. Click Here for a map of the currently recorded closest Aboriginal sites (shown with a yellow dot) which are closest to the Crag. Please give these areas a wide birth when setting up or exploring for new sectors. A map of the current sectors of the Crag (as of Jan 2022) has been overlaid as a reference.
Fences & Private Property:: You may come across old fence wire or fence posts. If around the existing Crag, these are remnants from when areas were previously used for grazing. Please be aware that private property lies south just of the Crag and in the case of the south side of the Hillside sector, just over the road. Please refer to the Geology Crag Noteworthy Boundaries & Sites map and avoid these areas altogether. For the latest boundaries of the area, the NSW Spatial Information Exchange website is a great reference. You can also change the map layers on the crag to show the boundaries by selecting the OSM or Terrain (Esri) option.
Chalk:: Please be sensible with the amount of chalk that you use on the holds and try to only use as much as you need. Many of the boulders are exposed to the weather and the chalk tends to wash off almost completely in the next good rain. That being said, it's always good practice to give your holds a quick brush to clean any excess chalk before you leave a problem. Especially if its protected from the weather or if you wont be returning to it anytime soon.

approche

Follow Ulan road out of Mudgee for about 10 minutes before turning right onto Wollar road. Follow this road for 10-15 minutes. Once you've seen Cooyal Hotel you're close . Parking for Hillside is on the newly widened shoulder right next to the Silicified Boulder. Parking for the Plateau is a bit further on in the huge shoulder on the other side of the road. Parking for Cryptic is further along still, but before the left bend

Alternative: Put Cooyal Hotel into your GPS then drive 2 minutes further up.

où dormir

Mudgee is the closest large town and is 20 minutes drive. Closer accommodation includes Cooyal Hotel and the Farmer's Quarters on Ulan road. Cooyal hotel is a classic little country pub only 2 minutes drive away with great food and free camping for customers. Visit the Cooyal Hotel website for more information

éthique

All projects listed or found are open!

If you're looking for new areas, it's preferable to head to the North or East of the established sectors, to keep a distance from any private property.

historique

Some historic sports routes have been found on the cliffs behind The Plateau sector but no information was available. Re-discovered by David in 2017 who put up a few routes on the Silicified Boulder. Later shown to the more boulder oriented Emmanuel Madayag .

Blake Muir and Jen M also contributed significantly, creating the maps, a lot of the photo topos, and geolocating most of the boulders. Without them, this guide would be significantly worse.

résumé

TBC. A vast array of granite boulders SE of Cowra, a lot of it on private land, please respect boundary/fence lines of private property and leave no trace.

Limitations de l'accès

Accessible boulders appear either between road and farm fence lines or in recreation areas/ state park.

Central Western Slope and Plains Guide

Table of contents

1. Central Western Slope and Plains 675 routes in Region

1.1. Warrumbungles 268 routes in Crag

1.1.1. Timor Rock 27 routes in Area

1.1.2. Mopra Rock 7 routes in Area

1.1.3. Mt Scabilon 1 route in Area

1.1.4. Berumbuckle Split Rock 1 route in Area

1.1.5. Dead Cow Cliffs 4 routes in Area

1.1.6. Belougery Spire 29 routes in Area

1.1.7. The Bread-Knife 9 routes in Area

1.1.8. The Butter-Knife 5 routes in Area

1.1.9. The Fish-Knife 2 routes in Area

1.1.10. Balor Peak 4 routes in Area

1.1.11. Crater Bluff 27 routes in Area

1.1.12. Bluff Mountain 48 routes in Area

Protections: It's time to replace the 10+ year rap sling on light of the Phoenix, static rope inside 1"tape

1.1.13. Bluff Minor 4 routes in Area

1.1.14. Armid Dome 1 route in Area

1.1.15. Churchill Rock 1 route in Area

1.1.16. Danu Scree 1 route in Area

1.1.17. Tonduron 17 routes in Area

1.1.18. Mt Naman 3 routes in Area

1.1.19. The Needle 18 routes in Area

1.1.20. Belougery Split Rock 4 routes in Area

1.1.21. The Fantail 2 routes in Area

1.1.22. Mata Rocks 1 route in Area

1.1.23. Canyon Cliffs 21 routes in Area

1.1.24. Nature Track Cliffs 6 routes in Area

1.1.25. Buckleys Cliffs 1 route in Area

1.1.26. Blackmans Bluff 14 routes in Cliff

1.1.27. Wallumburrawang Falls 2 routes in Cliff

1.1.28. The Warrumboulders 8 routes in Area

1.2. Cowra 267 routes in Area

1.2.1. Bellevue Reserve 0 routes in Crag

1.2.2. Col Stinson Park 267 routes in Sector

1.3. Mudgee and Surounds 140 routes in Area

1.3.1. Geology Crag 140 routes in Area

1.4. Bramblelands 0 routes in Area

1.4.1. Bramble Lane Circuit 0 routes in Sector

1.4.2. Little Grabine 0 routes in Area