Central Coast Guide

Summary:

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Saison

Bloc, Escalade sportive et autres styles

Lat / Long: -33.219302, 151.135133

description

The area between the Hawkesbury River and Lake Macquarie.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

hérité de New South Wales and ACT

historique

Local climbers, especially the Wondabyne Climbing Club (active mid-70s to mid-80s), comprehensively explored the area's roped climbing potential by the early 1980s, but sadly not a lot of information survives from this period. What is known is that they did a lot of exploration by boat, so most of the cliffs visible from the water would have been explored by this group.

This group climbed quite a lot with Joe Friend, who is reported to have lived a semi-hermit-like existence on Long Island near Brooklyn for several months during this period. One story involves a very hungover ascent up the tall eastern cliff on Lion Island, which, given the apparent rock quality there, was probably a pretty terrifying outing. Another story involves Phil Stallard of the WCC aid climbing the major crack system at Eagle Rock on the Hawksbury, with his leg in a cast (they'd planned on attempting to free the route, but Phil broke his leg in the weeks prior so they went and aided it instead).

In the mid-90s the Monks brothers explored much of the 'Bouddi National Park' areas, and top-roped and bouldered throughout the park (in particular the Lobster Beach areas and 'Bullima'). At around this time, Paul Riviere and friends were developing Joll's Bridge, and over the subsequent decade development inched north and east.

Development in Bouddi National Park (especially at the Lobster Beach Cave) has been quite contentious with NPWS and local residents, especially as the park has also been illegally developed by mountain bikers during this same period. A new plan of management was drafted in 2019 which seeks to ban climbing from the entirety of the park.

Summary:

Style inconnu et Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.315055, 151.351014

description

This area has an awesome boulder cave with potential for some rnice really hard lines on thin crimps. There is also a heap of bolted climbs on either side of the road. Some look quite hard. Mostly equiped with oversized glue in hex head bolts.

Limitations de l'accès

Turn off the F3 freeway at Ourimbah, turn at roundabout and head north parallel to freeway till you can turn left and go under freeway following signs to Palmdale. Follow this road for a few km's till you see a sign for the logging road up the dirt hill (Middle Ridge Rd). Follow this steep poorly maintained road till you come to the obvious rock cutting. The climbs are on either side of the road.

It may still be possible to access the location from the northern side along Yarramalong Rd via Red Hill Rd (turn at the Tree Tops turn-off). Follow this until you can turn left to continue along Middle Ridge Rd.

approche

Middle Ridge Rd is closed and blocked at the intersection of Palmdale Rd. You can park here or nearby and walk (uphill the whole way) approx. 25-30 minutes to the rock cuttings. Alternatively the road is still accessible by trail and mountain bikes.

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.350656, 151.503834

résumé

Seaside bouldering

description

Small 3-4m high headland immediately south of The Entrance Baths - opposite 98 Boondilla Rd. Being seaside, it is sandy and the rock is a bit soft in places, so expect breakages. It's not worth going out of your way to go here but if you're holidaying nearby you can still have a bit of fun.

approche

1 minute walk-in time if you're casual about it.

éthique

This is strictly a no bolting crag.

historique

Have seen chalk on here many years ago but no known recorded efforts.

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.392125, 151.359946

résumé

Somehow only recently developed boulders scattered around a hillside. Potential for quite a few classic moderates.

description

A mixture of boulders and small caves scattered around the western side of Berrys Head. The northern end tends to be sunnier with better rock, the southern end more shady and the rock more sandy.

Limitations de l'accès

It might be a good idea for larger groups not to all park in the one spot.

approche

Can be approached from Berrys Head Rd, Kent St or Belina Av. Just walk straight up the hill to the top. It's much easier to walk across the open summit to get between areas rather than traverse around. Topo locations are approximate - can someone geo-locate these properly?

éthique

Clean up new stuff well, and use minimal chalk.

historique

Found towards end of the 2021 lock down - how this area was not discovered and/or developed previously is a bit of a mystery. Still lots of potential for more lines, only the obvious ones done so far.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -33.393256, 151.360718

description

The very large flat top boulder with a cave on one side and a tunnel right through. Kind of hard to miss.

approche

Just left of the almost non-existent bushwalking track from the end of Belina Av. At the southern end of the boulder field.

historique

I though I was hallucinating when this thing appeared out of the bush.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -33.393107, 151.360740

description

A bit sandy but it brushes up quite well.

approche

Just uphill from The Anvil.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -33.393051, 151.360366

approche

A bit further NW of the anvil and down the hill a bit. Very well hidden from above.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -33.392785, 151.360435

approche

Near the huge half burnt out tree.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -33.392128, 151.359935

description

A large stand alone block a fair way north of the previous areas

Summary:

Lat / Long: -33.390826, 151.359546

description

The far northern end of the boulders.

approche

Probably easiest to access via Kent St or Berry Head Rd. About 50m around from Missed Opportunity Block

historique

Named because it's basically in Ben's backyard and he never found it!

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.391821, 151.364641

description

A great little crag tucked away in the mountains of Wyoming. Easy walking track in and only 15min walk from berrys head crag for a great little bouldering day out

Limitations de l'accès

We are climbing on darkinjung land. Make sure you are respectful and take your rubbish with you

approche

Park on Cottosloe Ave in Lisarow. Walk up the Cottosloe Ave access track for about 350m. Take a right onto Berry Head Ridge track. The boulders are either side of that trail. You can't miss them (5 minute walk)

OR

Park at the top of Belina ave in Wyoming. Take the Jane Young trail up, and you will pass 3 small bridges. On the 3rd bridge take the track to the left and up the hill. Once you reach the top take the track left that wraps around the summit and follow that track. The boulders are either side of that trail. You can't miss them. The boulders are not geo located so they are a very rough whereabouts. Please feel free to locate them.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -33.391797, 151.364534

description

a cool looking boulder with a slopey arete and slaby face

approche

About 50mtrs on the track to the left

Summary:

Lat / Long: -33.391750, 151.363779

description

Large boulder with a high slab on one side and cavelet on the other

approche

On the opposite side of the track to the centrepiece boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -33.391960, 151.365197

description

Mini shallow cave with a awesome flat top

approche

Where the track wraps around the summit, go in along the rocky top instead of the track, about 30 to 40mtrs in you will be standing ontop of the bunker, easy to miss.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -33.391597, 151.363029

description

Mini pride rock that features a big buldge nose

approche

Follow the track about 50mtrs past the centrepiece and you will come to the boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -33.391529, 151.363938

description

An amazing looking boulder with good rock quality but fragile in some parts

approche

Walk the track past camber boulder and you will see the big centrepiece boulder right infront of the track, can't be missed

description

a stretch of slabs With plenty of first ascent opportunity, some sections are high balls. Bring a brush and get setting.

approche

If you go in past the bunker you will find the start of the slabs, section A is first then section B finishes before the wave boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -33.392060, 151.363846

description

Boulder shaped like a wave, steep and slopey

approche

Behind playdoh bloc at the very end of the slab lane

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.405092, 151.477839

résumé

Seaside bouldering.

description

The bouldering here is really good, would be better with more traffic to clean it up but other wise just be prepared to clean off The sand that gets.blown onto the rocks. A few more harder stella lines to be climbed with more classic font style bouldering in the v2-v4 to be had. Sun goes behind the cliff around 3:30pm in summer daylight saving time. Avoid the hot mornings and aim for low tide and low swell

approche

it takes 15 minutes from the carpark to the north end of the beach and then another 10 or so past the point where you can no longer walk on the sand.

Summary:

description

Half way to the main area is a towering white boulder. Smattering of boulders just to the north

approche

From the rocks at the north end of the beach walk about 8 minutes under the cliff

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -33.412938, 151.317368

Limitations de l'accès

Park at top of access road (off Nells Rd, West Gosford) that runs up to the container storage site. There is a trail/path that leaves the N/W corner of the container site and runs uphill behind. At the 2nd large boulder head diagonally right, up the hill (roughly north). After about 200m you shoud strike a little cave that is the start for Into The Night. Climbs below are from left to right.

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Style inconnu et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -33.421223, 151.315201

résumé

Mainly sport climbing with a few trad lines thrown in. Bring bolt plates

Limitations de l'accès

Access as given below no longer works. The House of Praise has gone elsewhere and an Office Furniture Warehouse now occupies the building and the path up the retaining wall and along the fence is blocked off. Will update new access when known.

Drive along Manns Rd, turn L into Carnarvon, and L into Tathra. Park on road at top gate at 'House of Praise', an evangelical church that looks like a factory (large SOM black sign on building). Walk up hill on uphill side of this building, up to wire fence on top of hill. Walk along wire fence till you get to a boulder and onto an old fire trail. Turn right here for House of Praise crag or left for other crag.

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -33.421333, 151.313954

Summary:

Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -33.421245, 151.314439

description

The amphitheatre is a slabby area raised above the path en route to mangina cave.

Limitations de l'accès

A large tree has fallen onto the cliff marking the climb Slip and Sue. Access amphitheatre from the right hand end is possible

Summary:

Style inconnu, Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -33.421241, 151.314994

description

This area is notable for the tower with 2 large scoops, one atop another and some recently added bolted on wooden rungs to get into the first "cave". Penthouse is to the left and Red Light Special to the right.

Summary:

Tous Style inconnu

Summary:

Style inconnu et Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -33.421337, 151.315007

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et Style inconnu

Lat / Long: -33.421171, 151.315300

Summary:

Style inconnu et Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -33.421207, 151.315473

Summary:

Tous Style inconnu

Lat / Long: -33.421165, 151.315894

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -33.420059, 151.315627

description

This little cliff is at the West Gosf crag. Access from Tathra St. via the rear of the 'House of Praise' Evangenical church.

approche

Drive along Manns Rd, turn L into Carnarvon, and L into Tathra. Park on road at top gate at 'House of Praise', an Evangelical church that looks like a factory (large SOM black sign on building). Walk along the front of the building to the R side and proceed to the rear where you will encounter an old barb wire fence. Go under fence and trend up hill for 100mts until you come to another barb wire fence. Go thru where it is broken and head on uphill for about 60mts where you will find House of Praise crag, The first route you come to is the slabby arete "Christian soldier" (L end of crag). As a landmark there is a large chossy cave up to the left. Climbs are described L to R.

informations pour la descente

All routes have U-bolt lower-offs.

historique

Developed by Dave Forbes and Paul Riviere between 2006-2009

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.424242, 151.335463

résumé

Other blocs in the area are still being developed, be mindful of unfinished ascents

description

Plenty to climb at all levels, also home to one of the best coast classics.

Other blocs in the area are still being developed, be mindful of unfinished ascents

Boulders are a rough whereabouts and need to be properly located on the map

Limitations de l'accès

We are climbing on Darkinjung land. Please take your rubbish and treat the land with respect

approche

Park at the top of rotary apex Dr Gosford at the lookout, take the natural path on the right just past the park table, go down and left around the big gum so you should be just below the lookout, then follow it down as you come to a big rock on your left from there follow the track right and you will end up at the first bloc (apex)

Summary:

Lat / Long: -33.424033, 151.336293

description

Mini cave

approche

From the carpark take the man made path on the left of the lookout, follow past another lookout and you will come towards the end of the track and the boulder is pretty much right on the side of the track, very easy to miss

Summary:

Lat / Long: -33.424401, 151.335534

description

Cavelet and bulgey

approche

The first bloc you will come to after making your way down from the top, the bloc is on your right

Summary:

Lat / Long: -33.424512, 151.335298

description

Steep and amazing

approche

Follow the natural path down after apex till it flattens out and you will come into lilly on your right

Summary:

Lat / Long: -33.424538, 151.335264

description

Fun lowball warmup bloc

approche

The bloc to the left of lilly when approached

Summary:

Lat / Long: -33.424445, 151.335109

approche

Continue on past lilly on the path and you will come to toad bloc

Summary:

Lat / Long: -33.424338, 151.335033

description

Vert wall

approche

The bloc is behind and right of toad bloc

Summary:

Lat / Long: -33.424306, 151.335033

description

Vert wall with sharp micro crimps

approche

The wall behind green house

Summary:

Lat / Long: -33.424283, 151.334916

description

Slopey topouts

approche

Directly left from gem stone, about 40m

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et Style inconnu

Lat / Long: -33.422724, 151.169275

résumé

A warm sunny crag with kindly bolted single pitch sport routes (and a couple of little mutlis) overlooking the creek. A good range of grades makes this a good choice for many.

description

This is a great crag situated on Mangrove Creek, a tributary of the Hawkesbury river. It is 3km north of the small town of Spencer. It is predominantly ring bolted sport climbs, with one or two mixed routes thrown in. it faces west and is uncomfortably hot on summer afternoons.

approche

Take the Somersby exit Off the M1 to Peats Ridge and continue to Central Mangrove. Follow the signs towards Wisemans Ferry on Wisemans Ferry Rd. Just before crossing Mangrove creek Popran Rd exits to the left. The road is unsealed and parallels the creek. Continue past a caravan park, Pure Valley, and Hominy Creek. Just past a sharp right hand turn there are two driveways off to the right and a boulder filled creek to the left, park here in a grass clearing on the right hand side of the road adjacent to a creek to park.

50m further south down the road from the parking a tall rock cairn sits on top of a boulder. The path goes directly up the hill from here. The cliff is apparent in about 200m and you arrive at the base of Green Slugs.

historique

First explored by Phil Stallard and the Wondabyne Climbing Club in the late 1970s / early 1980s. Sadly no information survives from this period.

Summary:

Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -33.423556, 151.170197

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.422325, 151.349611

description

A sweet central coast crag with quality low to moderate lines and the potential for more FA's of all levels of climbing

Limitations de l'accès

We are climbing on Darkinjung land. Please take your rubbish and treat the land with respect.

approche

park at the top of Jarrett Street, at the gate to the fire trail. Walk to the fork, take left for Bulbasaur boulder, for others Walk up the trail veering right towards the water tower. Make it past the tower about 100mtrs until you can see the prominent big roof cave (big mumas house) on your left up the mountain. Make your way directly up to the cave.

OR; Drive up Dolly Ave and all the way to the very end where the is a tower. Park where there is a little 'bay' of sorts. Walk to the end but going along the ironbark trail on your righht. There is a little sign on the right side. Go directly behind this sign and down the hill. Big Mumas House is to the right. Follow the track going right to Split Bloc and The Hide Out.

See approach for each individual block.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -33.422858, 151.347662

description

a neat little cave on the road side of the mountain.

approche

From the water tower follow the track past the entry to the big roof cave (big mumas house) down and around left until you line parallel to the main road. Continue 50mtrs until you see henry's cave up on your left

Summary:

Lat / Long: -33.422174, 151.348459

description

big roof cave with plenty of potential for more lines

approche

From the water tower, follow the track about 80mtrs until you see the cave up to your left. Enter the scrub and walk up the mountain to the cave.

Or from the top of Rumbalara. See Rumbalara Boulders description.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -33.422469, 151.349574

description

A small but fun block with slopey heel hook moves

approche

From the big roof cave (big mumas house), follow the track left about 50mtrs. Easy to miss.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -33.422461, 151.349679

description

Cool block that features a crack climb and crimpy edges. Solid line going up the middle with potential for more.

approche

From the big roof cave (big mumas house) follow the track left past "the hide out" and around right about 30mtrs.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -33.422220, 151.347855

résumé

A short wall running to a higher Pinnacle

description

A slab wall with multiple short climbs all relatively simple. If you are standing at the top of the pinnacle both the right and left side can be climbed. Easy climbs but the height changes the climbing to be a little more difficult because a mental component comes into play.

approche

Park at the end of the loop road near the satellite dish. Head directly towards statues. Continue down the hill a fraction until you see the noticeable pinnacle head. Roughly 100m from the carpark.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -33.422865, 151.351709

description

A Stellar boulder with everything you want and more. From quality low to moderate lines and the potential for some in the high grades. This one is a classic

I.e, this boulder remains damp after heavy rain due to lack of sunlight, please allow atleast 48hrs before climbing

approche

From the bottom of Jarrett Street fire trail, take the left over grown trail at the fork. After about 100mtrs the trail will start to incline and rutt out, from here continue another 50mtrs and you will see the boulder on your left just in from the track.

Summary:

Bloc, Escalade sportive et autres styles

Lat / Long: -33.440745, 151.318991

Limitations de l'accès

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -33.437717, 151.310346

description

A small yet impressive crag offering many climbs for all levels of climbers. Well protected and offering some good challenges Point Clare is well worth travelling to for a climb.

Limitations de l'accès

Park at the end of Coolarn Ave, Point Clare, where it turns right and becomes Nari Ave. Find the vague track to the left of No.2 which heads up the hill to the crag. Ensure you do not park your car near the crag entrance as it's right on a corner and can create a traffic hazard. Park further down the road and on the grass.

approche

A short walk up the hill between left of No.2 will find you at the Point Clare crag (Left Crag). The crag extends quite far to the right and partially to the left, up the hill.

Summary:

La plupart Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.440356, 151.316455

description

A small boulder with a few stellar lines from V3-10 and potential for many more to come, and a wall with a few trad lines.

Limitations de l'accès

We are climbing on Darkinjung land. Take your rubbish with you and treat the land with respect.

As the entrance to the approach is in close proximity to the driveway of number 32 enter discretely and keep music and noise to a minimum. Do not obstruct the driveways.

approche

2 minutes walk. Parking at or near the top of Sunnyside avenue follow the faint track up to a small chossy overhang visible from the road, head right hugging the base of the cliff line for about 200m and you will arrive at the boulder.

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.440666, 151.325232

description

A neat little crag with some easier grades and even easier access.

NOTE* most of the lines in this crag have been cleaned to the bear minimum, if you plan to climb here bring a brush and exercise a higher degree of caution.

Limitations de l'accès

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Do not obstruct any of the driveways especially No.37 and keep noise to a minimum.

approche

Parking at or near the top of Penang street (get it) walk up the stairs to the left of the driveway and come onto the obvious trail, from here you will come straight into the boulder field. following the trail as it curls around and up the hill will bring you in-between the Market Boulder (left) and Moon Boulder (right).

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.446346, 151.323757

résumé

A small yet impressive area consisting of scattered boulders with plenty of potential FA's available for anyone willing to put in the time.

Limitations de l'accès

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Do not obstruct any of the driveways especially No.37 and keep noise to a minimum.

Do not attempt to approach or leave via Nioka Avenue as doing so involves trespassing on private property.

approche

As for 'Little Asia' but follow the fire trail until you reach a large roundabout around a tree, here where the road forks take the left and follow all the way to the end and you will end up above the 'Bird Cluster'

Summary:

La plupart Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.444932, 151.315463

résumé

Compact area with a lot of highball boulders of varying grades. Good potential for roped lines either on bolts or gear.

Limitations de l'accès

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

approche

Following the fire trail from the top of Penang street. Take the right path at the first fork where the track opens up to a road size width. Continue down this track up the steep hill turning left at the second fork under the powerlines. From here follow the subtle path through the bush until you come to a wide open rock flat, then head to the obvious lookout point. The boulders are beneath this area.

résumé

Currently in development. Long length of cliff featuring massive potential for sport and boulder lines alike. Mostly aggressively steep.

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Style inconnu et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -33.452154, 151.312843

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Style inconnu et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -33.456706, 151.311684

résumé

Currently under development

Summary:

Bloc, Escalade sportive et autres styles

Lat / Long: -33.470042, 151.315729

description

Koolewong is a suburb in the Central Coast region of New South Wales. Koolewong has a population of approximately 800 people.

approche

Koolewong is easily accessible by car via Brisbane Water Drive.

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.478633, 151.318047

description

Mostly hard bouldering on slopey pockets with even slopier top outs. Lots of boulders spaced out over a large area with heaps of potential for new problems. (The guide is incomplete at this stage and some problems may have FA before currently listed.)

Limitations de l'accès

The boulders are situated above a residential area so it is important to be quiet and courteous when using this area. When driving under the bridge be aware that clearance is only 2.1m and high tide can come up to your wheels. Do not block access to Lara St.

approche

From the highway take the Gosford turn and head down the hill and turn right on Brisbane Water Drive. Turn right onto Lara St just before the bridge. Follow the road under the bridge and park on the right. Best not to park further along as these are resident parks.

Follow the road past the house and take the right branch up the hill until you see a large boulder on the left. Turn left just after here on the walking track just behind the new apartments and over a bridge. Follow the track/fire break behind the houses until you reach a boulder on the left where the track takes a slight kink to the left. There's also a small yellow drain. Turn right up hill here past the Bikini Cave on the left. Scramble up the small cliffline and head diagonally right up the hill and the boulders should appear. Hopefully the map will help a bit.

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Bloc et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -33.477716, 151.317214

résumé

Short well featured sandstone routes, mostly on Carrot bolts with single u-bolt anhors. Easy to set up top ropes.

description

The small crag above the Lara St boulders. Routes are described left to right, with gaps on walls not yet climbed. The crag ends just above Star boulder. There are several projects on ring bolts indicated with a tag on the first bolt. There are a number of U bolts and the odd hex bolt scattered across the top of the crag. The top is easily accessed from either end or via scrambles between caves.

Limitations de l'accès

Best to abseil down and clean routes, especially if you want to top out, as the cliff top is covered in she oak needles. The hex heads are quite fiddly to get hangers over sometimes.

approche

Drive out of Woy Woy North on Brisbane Waters Drive and take the immediate left after the bridge into what looks like a dirt parking lot. Follow this down left to the water and cross under the railway bridge. Park in the dirt turn in's on the right just after the small grass open area. Don't continue further up the hill as this is resident parking ONLY.

Continue along the road past the house and take the right branch up the hill until you see a large boulder on the left. Turn left just after here on the walking track just behind the new apartments and over a small bridge. Follow the track/fire break behind the houses until you reach a boulder on the left where the track takes a slight kink to the left. There's also a small yellow drain beside a power pole. Turn right up hill here past the Bikini Cave on the left. Scramble up the small cliffline and head diagonally right up the hill until it flattens out a bit and follow up to the right aiming for the Cranberry boulder, a large boulder with ironstone swirls just to the left of the track. You walk over the top of Slab World which is down to the left. You meet the main crag at a small cave, which has 'Superstition' above it. There's a few routes in the small gully between the walls here and the remainder of the crag is to the right notable by the three large caves you'll find.

éthique

DON'T park in front of any of the residents houses, use the public parking near the grass area or just after crossing under the bridge.

This area is close to houses so avoid making any unnecessary noise passsing the houses and avoid playing loud music and carry out all your rubbish.

historique

Most routes were put up between 1995-2000 by David Forbes with some routes added by Richard Jeffrey and Paul Rivière.if there is knowledge of original names of climbs please change.

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -33.463312, 151.311123

description

Three main sandstone outcrops with intermediate caves overlooking Brisbane waters, Koolewong.

approche

Park before the bus stop at the Junction of Glenrock Parade and Havendale Cl. There is access to the trail behind the bus stand, follow diagonally left for 50m until you come to two marked trees (pink and orange tags), then direcly up the escarpment for 100m. Take care through loose steep terrain.

Summary:

Style inconnu et Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -33.469678, 151.313756

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.482138, 151.444033

résumé

Seaside Bouldering

description

Seaside Bouldering north and south of Winnie Bay, Copacabana. Scattered blocks but some high quality routes.

approche

Park along the park on Del Monte Place (opposite house number 44) and walk down to the bottom of the park to find the path leading to Winnie Bay.

Summary:

Escalade sportive et Style inconnu

Lat / Long: -33.476792, 151.139634

description

Hawkesbury sandstone at it's best. 'Steep', water polished and long. Shame about the current problematic access through private property (permission required) - or a rather epic 4.5km walk along fire roads from above. Cliff faces north-east, and in summer gets into total shade by 2pm. The big plus is that the crag is very steep and has major corners which block much of the sun, so you can climb here all day in summer. The crag is famous for the tilted slopers which turn an easy looking route into total desperation!

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.483044, 151.308406

description

Some beautiful blocs and caves scattered across a hillside with views of Woy Woy bay. Will be a fantastic area once developed, alot of potential for new problems.

approche

To access 'Dark Forrest' find Woy Woy Bay road, Phegans bay area. Follow Woy Woy Bay Road untill you reach the right hand hair pin that turns onto Phegans Bay road. Turn right here but park imediately on the left in a clearing at the top of the hill. Walk back across Woy Woy Bay road and past some crash barriers to find the obvious walking trail that leads off to your left. I you follow this trail for 5mins boulders will begin to appear on your left. The better ones are farther along near where the track winds close to the back of some houses. If you head up the hill to the bottom of the cliff line this is where the 'big dry cave' is located. The monkey cave is the small low cave to the left of the huge cave. The happy place is located high above the big dry cave on the upper cliff line and is quite tricky to find.

Summary:

description

You will see this cave high on your left as your walking in at the start of the trail. It has obvious painted markings. This cave houses only one problem called 'see no evil v4' starts on an obvious jug over left, traverse right, make a tricky move to gain better holds on the face right of the cave, top out.

Summary:

Lat / Long: -33.482467, 151.306623

description

A beautiful cave high on the cliff line, fantastic views and great rock. 'Steep' climbing with alot more topouts following a recent localised storm that made topping out possible without aid from a tree.

approche

The Happy place is located on the cliff line above the main 'Dark Forrest' area and is best accessed from the top. To find the Happy Place Head From Kariong take Woy Woy Road towards Phegans Bay park at the intersection of Woy Woy Rd and Woy Woy Bay (just in front of the Woy Woy Bay/ Phegans Bay turn off sign).

Walk towards the guard rail and pick up a faint track just left of the houses in the bush. Follow this trail/path of least resistance to a big flat rock clearing at the top of the cliffs where you over look the water, from here head right about 50m along the upper cliff line till you can scramble down the steep looking slab that appears on your left to access the Happy Place.

Summary:

description

A huge cave chossy cave that as the name suggests stays completely dry. There are a few easy problems on a small orange wall below the the big cave.

approche

Above the trackside boulders at the base of the cliff line

Summary:

description

A small cave with sloid rock and some nasty top outs onto a ledge. The cave contains some of the harder lines done in dark forrest so far including the excellent 'Kong v9'. There are also so good roof problems in the pebbly cave above, including a great juggy roof called 'waterfall bay roof V3'

approche

Left of the big dry cave

Summary:

approche

To the left of the path just before you reach the flat rock lookout

Summary:

Bloc, Escalade sportive et autres styles

Lat / Long: -33.485652, 151.303020

Summary:

Tous Bloc

résumé

A slightly drippy wall with a few project on it? Jason Piper might know more

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.483712, 151.302430

description

A fun little group of boulders with easy access close to the road. Mostly easy stuff with rounded top outs and big juggy holds.

Useful Info: Follow the fire trail for a short distance and a group of boulders will appear on your left. This is the sprocket area.

approche

Follow Woy Woy Road from Kariong and park at the obvious fire trail with a gate on the left after the speed camera. If you reach the turn off to Phegans Bay you've gone too far.

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.486902, 151.305028

résumé

Very nice road side bouldering:

Guide and access here: http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=crag&crag_id=463

description

A great varied area close to the road. Something for every one with highball face classics, slopey top outs and hard roof climbing in the cave. You will find that the main wall is close to some houses please be courtious and respect the neighbours. Area classics included the steep prow 'The 'Chopping Block' V3',

Highballing on 'Skyline V4 & 'Hungery Sex Tables' V3' The slopey top outs of 'Katy Rose V5 & 'Road Side Assistance' V7'

If you like long roofs try the excellent 'Extended Line V7'

This crag is right behind some houses so please be courteous and respect the privacy of the neighbours by keeping noise to a minimum, especially around the main wall area.

Useful Info: 'Road House' overview

approche

Park near the corner of Woy Woy Road & Wattle Road, just past the Phegans bay turn off. There is a parking area opposite the Rural fire station. Follow the trail into the bush, down to your left is the high obvious main wall Continue right to the 'Dug out' cave.

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et Moulinette

Lat / Long: -33.490482, 151.307372

résumé

A lovely little crag overlooking Brisbane water, with easy access, a good variety of easy and moderate climbs on decent quality sandstone.

description

Originally known as "Gnomeland" in the Wondabyne climber's guide to the Lower Hawkesbury River but now commonly referred to as Phegan's Bay, given the crags location. This is a pleasant and now popular eastern facing crag, well suited to the beginner or those wanting a leisurely day. Efforts have been made to use hex head bolts in climbs around the main wall area to ensure minimum visual impact due to the public traffic through this area. This crag has been the centre of much controversy locally over retro-bolting and route stealing. A number of routes have been put up by transient climbers who never conveyed route descriptions so it is hoped the details of unnamed routes will eventually trickle in, as may other comments. As noted several of the climbs in this area have been regrettably retro-bolted without consent of the original ascentionist. It is believed the level of protection now on these climbs is testament to the boldness of their achievement. These routes are now enjoyed safely by the great number of climbers who visit this crag, however should the original ascentionist request removal of this protection it will be done without hesitation and all efforts made to remediate any damage resulting from their removal. Although that can't be said for everyone as tempers flare easily.

approche

Park at the end of Olive Avenue (also called Clem Cl in some street directories), Phegan's Bay and walk south along the thinner track into the treeline. There are only two spaces at the end of the street- so if these are taken drive up the end of the road, or park opposite the RFS station as for the Roadhouse bouldering and walk a little further.

Take a right at the first fork ending at a large flat rock outcrop providing magnificent views of Brisbane Waters. The main wall is under tis area. Descent can be a climb down to the right ( looking out) that passes under a few routes and is about grade 2. A easier option is a slippery walk down just to the left ( looking out). From the base it is 50 m to climbers left to the main wall, and to the right is sweet mumma area.

historique

The earliest known climbs in this area were the charge of the rather colourful characters of the Wondabyne Climbers around 1978 - 1979. Most of the obvious cracks and easier face climbs were ticked off. The grades of several of the climbs they established are considered a bit light-on by today's standards and for the purpose of this guide have been updated. The area saw a resurgence of activity in the late 90s when Richard Jeffrey armed with a Hilti established a few of the classic sports routes to the main wall and regrettably also retro-bolting two of the existing established lines. This new activity has however seen the crag further developed with several active new routers Gary Hamilton, Kye Riddington and Shane adding a host of new lines.

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.499677, 151.298905

Limitations de l'accès

Be mindful as there are shelter/s that have been set up. I am not 100% sure but there might be a homeless man living around there. This could also affect the climbing are as the shelter/s are over the top of 2 caves/ overhung walls.

approche

There is a small trail that you go up when you get to the front gate of the Woy Woy Tip. it's about 10-15m from the Tip gate. Go up through the bush along this reasonably well-defined trail and up to the top of the hill. At the top on your right is a tall slab just behind the balancing Boulder. Keep following the trail along to the left where there is a little opening. On the left is Pit Lane.

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -33.473981, 151.299231

résumé

Rumoured to be one of the best crags on the Central Coast.

Limitations de l'accès

This particular crag is a mission to get to. There used to be a trail created by those that founded the crag, but neglect has caused the trail to become overgrown. The trail needs to be re-established to avoid excessive damage to the bush.

approche

Until the trail utilising the plateaus is established, access is via the Woy Woy Bay Fire Trail. Park at the end of the trail (being sure to not block the entry!) Walk down the trail till the end, then keep walking in the same direction down hill until you reach the water. Walk along the base of the hill until you see some beautiful orange sandstone up the hill. Then head straight up the hill till you reach the rock and you're there.

historique

After some bush fires cleared a lot of the scrub some previously unaccessable crags opened up.

Summary:

La plupart Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -33.497974, 151.252074

résumé

Bolt-free bush cliffs

description

Wondabyne is a set of cliffs near the Wondabyne Train Station. Access to the cliffs is via train (Wondabyne Mainline and Wondabyne North) or boat (Wondabyne East).

approche

Train or boat

historique

The cliffs in this areas were explored and developed in the late 70s by the prolific but long defunct Wondabyne Climbing Club.

Summary:

Escalade traditionnelle et Moulinette

Lat / Long: -33.509790, 151.246713

approche

You'll need a boat. You can hire one from Brooklyn.

Access into the bay is difficult at low tide (extensive mud flats) and also at high tide (extensive oyster leases that are just barely submerged). Be careful.

historique

The first recorded visit to the crag was in March 1977, by the Wondabyne Climbing Club. On that trip the club put up two routes but never returned to claim more. The next recorded visit was almost exactly 21 years later (in April 1998), when three members of the UNSW Climbing Club visited the crag on two separate trips and put up a further 3 routes. It seems unlikely that such a prominent crag will wait another 21 years for its next visit, particularly seeing as there are any number of first ascents still awaiting those who are willing to attempt the epic access.

Summary:

Tous Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -33.491327, 151.254949

description

The line of cliffs near the top of the ridge above Wondabyne Station (on the Newcastle Line). This crag (along with the two other Wondabyne crags) was a hive of activity for the (now defunct) Wondabyne Climbing Club in 1976 and 1977. The following information was taken from the 3rd edition of the club's Wondabyne climbing guide (published in 1977). The crag currently does not have any bolts - let's keep it that way. There are plenty of trees for top rope anchors, so if you don't want to lead the routes as they stand, there's still plenty of opportunity to climb here. The crag faces east, so is quite shady in the afternoon. It may be a good spot in summer (although the 15 minutes slog up the hill could suck). Please keep noise to a minimum since sound travels well in the valley, and the residents will hear any loud noise you make at the crag.

approche

The only way to get to the crag is by boat or to catch a train to Wondabyne station, the next station north of Hawkesbury River (Brooklyn) and the station before Woy Woy. The train normally doesn't stop at Wondabyne, so ask the guard to stop there when you board, and travel in the rear carriage. Exit is via the back door only, as the station is only 15m long.

Follow the signposted Great North Walk track left from the station and up the hill.

To access the far left (south) end of the crag near Spite, leave the track about 100m up where it angles back right. Head left up to an old campsite, then straight up the ridge behind this for about 5 minutes.

To access the right (north) end of the crag near Gibson, walk along the Great North Walk track until it flattens and you can see the quarry, then go about 150m straight up hill to the cliff.

Summary:

Tous Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -33.485694, 151.260141

description

The cliff line at the northern end of the ridge above Wondabyne Station.

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et Style inconnu

Lat / Long: -33.499914, 151.177874

Summary:

Escalade traditionnelle et Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -33.499879, 151.176276

résumé

The Bluffs is a multi pitch climbing area on the Central Coast. It is adventurous in nature with some superb orange sandstone, that is also tainted by some choss bands.

description

Adventure Multi-pitch climbing on mixed gear (bolts and trad). 2 ropes may be required for some of the longer 50m abseils.

This area has many undocumented routes. Hopefully information will come to light soon. Some development is in progress, please speak to locals before establishing routes.

Limitations de l'accès

National Parks has allowed access, so be mindful with your waste and pack in & out. Follow the Take 3 for the Crag mindset and keep to the trails please.

approche

Walk time From Jolls Bridge breakdown car park (where the telephone is) is approx 45mins. Walk towards Jolls Bridge cliff edge, where the abseilers drop off. Before you get to the cliff edge, there will be a track on your right, that runs parallel to the highway. At the time of writing there was pink tape marking the track, along with rock cairns. Its a reasonably worn track. When you arrive at the old Dam, that is about half way. The first cliff you come to is the Right Side, where Last post is. From here, keep heading North along cliff line and you will see a track going down and into the gully. Follow this and then you will come up to the arrival area. A double bolt belay will be on your right on a lovely yellow wall. This is the top of The Elephant Graveyard.

où dormir

Central Coast

éthique

Mixed climbs, so check climb descriptions as you may need a small trad rack.

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -33.500418, 151.180097

description

Some of the best climbing on the Central Coast, with the best views the area has to offer. Climbing here is not for beginners – multi pitch skills are required and climbers should carry prussiks or an ascender at all times, and know how to use them. It is best to fix a rope at the top of climbs to abseil in, and climb on a separate rope.

approche

Park as for Joll’s Bridge. Spot the pink tape and follow it north on top of the cliff line. Once you reach the powerlines, continue on fire trail to obvious left turn with cairns and tape. Follow track down hill to dam wall. Cross the dam and continue up and left towards the main bluff. The easiest way to orientate yourself is by finding the large stack of rocks above ‘Fretted Pom’. There are rings to abseil into all of the climbs.

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

description

On the south side of the dam. Vertical wall with many pockets, about 12 m high

approche

Safest to approach from regular Jolls car park. From there follow ridge north staying to the river side of fence. Once on power line access road (20 min) head to freeway and look for cairn end path that heads to bluffs. Descend towards dam but before dropping down to cross it follow cliff band around in a river direction for 2 minutes to find wall. Best to go with someone who knows the way. About 40 min total.

informations pour la descente

Mostly DBB. Top of crag readily accessed on descent towards dam.

historique

Seldom visited so most of the routes need a good scrub. Developed before bluffs. Hopefully information about names of routes will come to light

Summary:

Escalade traditionnelle, Escalade sportive et autres styles

Lat / Long: -33.504773, 151.186622

description

Once "a crag of its time (90s) it was full of rusty carrots, mixed gear, choss and no lower offs" - until recently, (2010 onwards) when a big retro-bolting effort commenced. Spread out over a long broken cliff there are spectacular views over the Hawkesbury that almost make you forget the hum of the freeway. There are some good climbs hidden away. Online guides for this area are available through Sydney Rockies. The following descriptions are to update that information, as the area is slowly "modernised" by local climbers.

approche

Heading north on the F3 you cross Jolls bridge and approx. 2.5km up the hill this there is an emergency bay (Emergency phone # 467) where you can reverse safely between two guard rails into a grassy area where there is room for 5 cars (As of April 2015 the parking area is in process of expansion).

From the parking an obvious path takes you 20m, crossing over a barbed wire fence to the cliff top with great view. From that lookout you can access the sectors.

Approach to separate sectors described in those sectors.

Alternatively park on the old Pacific 'Highway' as described in the SSS guide and walk under the bridge. Follow the guard rail until the stone cutting and this is the southern end of the crag.

où dormir

No need to book into a motel or camp. Jolls is only a 40min drive north of Sydney

éthique

There are a couple of mixed routes but the majority have been retrobolted to bring the crag into the 21st century. If it is still mixed gear, leave it like that!

historique

Initially discovered in 1990 by Wayne Anderson, he let the secret out to Paul Riviere. At the same time Andrew Powell and Phil Stallard (Wondabyne climbers Assoc) were scoping out the place. 10 years of development ensued through the 90's with many contributors putting up lines including Ross Linsley, Paul Riviere, Richard Jeffrey, John Wilde et al. The crag was largely forgotten in the first few years of the 21st cent, but has become once again since many routes have been retro-bolted with rings making it a good moderate sports crag.

Summary:

Escalade traditionnelle, Escalade sportive et autres styles

Lat / Long: -33.507176, 151.188696

description

The main sector. The routes are described left to right facing the cliff (south to north).

approche

The lower cliff can be accessed either scramble or abseil.

From the car park follow a track 2m to the cliff top, passing through a barded wire fence. To abseil look for a detached block with a little tree, 15 meters south of the lookout. New ring bolts and an old chain are obvious between the cliff and the block. The abseil is nearly 35m, so a minimum 70m rope is required. You end up in the Honey I'm Late area.

The main walk down follows the barbed wire fence south for about 200m until a fallen tree and a living grass tree block the path. Climb over the dead tree and then immediately turn to go down an easy gully. Follow the lower tier around to the left until some reo steel steps allow you down a slot. At the bottom turn right to walk north along the bottom of the cliffline. Climbs starting with Absolute Honey appear in about 40m.

Alternatively (for the most northern routes), from the lookout at the top, take the well worn track heading north, and after about 5 minutes walk (200m) do a U-bent into the Ten Pin Gully.

Summary:

Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -33.505305, 151.187729

approche

Find the upper tier of the cliff area by walking north along the fence line (atop the cliff approx 300m north of emergency car parking bay) until you come to a rocky crown. Walk around the front of this and you will come to a 12-15 m high wall with ring bolts all the over the place. There are two cracks that split this nice little area.

From the bottom, these ten climbs are located about 50m up the slope behind Phvvvit (the orange corner on Billy's Buttress).

Summary:

La plupart Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -33.505382, 151.187085

description

Two small varied sectors on the north end of the crag, on the lower level.

approche

Easiest to walk along the base track 140 left of "Crack 'n' Up wall".

Alternatively, rap in from the L end of "The Hall of Horrors" from an angophora tree with its root curling over the cliff edge.

Summary:

Escalade traditionnelle et Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -33.504362, 151.186517

description

The highest section of cliff offering some of the best rock at Joll's. It is approx 100m L of the Basement or approx 300m L of Crack'n Up Wall. Difficult (not impossible) to locate without local input. Rock'n Robyn is the short overhanging wall before you come to the beginning of the long white roof.

approche

Best accessed by walking left along the base of the cliff from Crack 'n' Up and Basement Walls for about 280m. The 70m long roof with its polished white stone is reminiscent of Tjuringa Wall at Mt Arapiles.

Summary:

Escalade traditionnelle et Style inconnu

Lat / Long: -33.541210, 151.197184

description

As you drive south on the F3 freeway this is the obvious wall with a small orange cave on the right level with the freeway on right.

Limitations de l'accès

Climbing west of the Hawkesbury river bridge is forbidden. It is part of the muogmarra nature reserve

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Bloc et autres styles

Lat / Long: -33.506458, 151.335646

résumé

This is a pleasant small South facing summer crag with a few moderately graded classic sporty routes with the bonus of a glorious view over Broken Bay.

approche

Park at the end of Mullbong Road, Orange Grove, and take the well-defined walking track (the old billycart track as known when we were kids) on the left just past the last house, not the gated track! Walk uphill for about 200 metres where you will pass a large boulder in the middle of the track. Continue up, veering L up a steep track to a blocky outcrop of sandstone. From the platform you reach you can access the top of the cliff to the right or descend the tight squeeze to the cliff’s base. Follow the base of the cliff for access to Kit Kit wall, Red Head wall, Offspring wall, and Underworld. Underworld is 70m further L of Offspring Wall. It is an marked by a collapsed roof after-which is a great little 5mt long horizontal bouldering roof. If you ferret around there is another mini area on the lower tier with three mini-sport routes

historique

Most of the routes at this crag were developed in 1996 in a frenzy by Richard Jeffrey. Several large boulders perched above the crag offer some good bouldering which was popularised by Gary Hamilton who developed most of the problems around 2000 - 2001. In 2015 the area has received some newer lines and rebolting to rejuvenate some great little lines on superb rock, albeit a bit damp at times.

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -33.506728, 151.332625

description

A selection of climbing from slab to roof on on top quality sandstone.

approche

Crag is located behind the Ampol service station on Blackwall Rd. Drive around the back of the servo to the car parks near the large gas bottle. The access track up the hill is on the left (north/east) side of the car park. Up the steep trail heading up the hill with the big cave directly above the servo.

éthique

Like any urban climbing area, be courteous and polite to any people who live in the area, don't park on front yards, don't block driveways, pick up your rubbish and bury your poo if you can't leave to go to an actual toilet. Don't blast music, people live nearby who likely wouldn't appreciate it and could cause access issues.

historique

Originally bolted by Paul Riviere, a few hex bolted routes were put up in the top right orange cave. Those routes have sice been re-bolted and Jason Piper took to the main cave putting up a number of classics. A few projects still remain.

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Bloc et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -33.507330, 151.338356

description

Routes described from right to left.

approche

First crag you come to when walking up from the Mulbong Road carpark. Defined by the big chossy cave on the far right end (full of some homeless persons belongings normally)

éthique

Like any urban climbing area, be courteous and polite to any people who live in the area, don't park on front yards, don't block driveways, pick up your rubbish and bury your poo if you can't leave to go to an actual toilet. Don't blast music, people live nearby who likely wouldn't appreciate it and could cause access issues.

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et Moulinette

Lat / Long: -33.507363, 151.337801

description

Routes described from right to left. Area starts on the left hand side of the large chimney and finishes at the left arete after the roof.

éthique

Like any urban climbing area, be courteous and polite to any people who live in the area, don't park on front yards, don't block driveways, pick up your rubbish and bury your poo if you can't leave to go to an actual toilet. Don't blast music, people live nearby who likely wouldn't appreciate it and could cause access issues.

Summary:

Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -33.507495, 151.336801

description

Route descriptions from right to left. Area is a bit more spread out than the previous two areas. Some routes are on carrot bolts

éthique

Like any urban climbing area, be courteous and polite to any people who live in the area, don't park on front yards, don't block driveways, pick up your rubbish and bury your poo if you can't leave to go to an actual toilet. Don't blast music, people live nearby who likely wouldn't appreciate it and could cause access issues.

Summary:

La plupart Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.507585, 151.335185

description

From the "dirty abandoned project" at the end of Offspring Wall walk 70m further L until you come to a collapsed roof system - This is where "Underworld" commences. If you go down the little gully to the lower tier you will find an overhanging section with three bolted mini routes on superb polished sandstone. If you continue walking thru the upper section it will bring you to a 5m long roof with an epic long boulder problem. Toward the edge of the cliff you will find anchors on a large slab that is atop the lower level. This area contains three routes.

approche

Walk in from Mulbring Rd and head for Kit Kat Wall and continue L along the base of the cliff.

historique

Underworld has only recently been developed with a couple of mini sport routes and a great long bouldering problem thru a 5m roof.

Summary:

Escalade traditionnelle, Escalade sportive et Moulinette

Lat / Long: -33.507785, 151.334331

description

A difficult to find cliff on Blackwall midway between Bogas and Underworld. Is best approached by locating the southern end of Bogas Cliff. Find your way from Gonzo moving up and around to the R. You will eventually come to the top of Blackwall and a distinctive walking track. Follow track to its most south-west location, then drop to the southern side of the hill moving L as you get lower. You will come to a large boulder with bolts in the top for top-roping some great boulder probs. Pinochio and friends are just beyond this block,

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Bloc et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -33.518376, 151.193851

résumé

A 15 minute drive from Wahroonga this crag offers climbs of varying grades and heights including a few mini multi pitches to get some practice in.

description

A series of small western facing crags just south of Joll's Bridge. This land has an access road leading to a number of Energy Australia power poles which can be seen from the freeway. Some climbs have extra bolts in them to help avoid decking out on mid climb ledges.

Limitations de l'accès

New approach as of 12/03/2023. Please do not park on the freeway shoulder anymore as it has now been confirmed as illegal. A climber recently had his car towed whilst climbing.

This land is accessed by Energy Australia so please don't block the locked gate on the freeway. This shoulder is also frequently used by trucks as a rest stop. It is illegal to stop on freeways.

approche

New access details. Quicker and easier to get into the crag, and avoids illegally parking on the freeway and having your car towed!

Coming from Sydney, exit at Hawkesbury river and head north along the old Pacific Highway towards Mooney Mooney. Park approx 300m south of Jolls Bridge where the eastern side of the road widens, or approx 250m north in the shade on the right hand bend. Walk back to Jolls Bridge and enter 35m north of the wooden crucifix. Entering further south may lead to multiple wasp stings, trust me on this!

Hike up to the bridge and head to its southern end. Walk through the evident corridor cut into the lantana, past the ants nest, and towards the prominent gum tree to find white tape. Note the old 44 gallon drum below which is good to use as a landmark on your way out. Turn left and pass the old tyre.

Walk along the top of the low wall, then along the base of the short cliff that has the low honey combed cave. Walk through the grass trees, continuing for approx 15m. Head up the hill towards the freeway to find Promiscuity sector of the crag.

historique

Stumbled upon by Phil Stallard while looking for a location to paint the Hawkesbury River in 2017. Developed by Brendon Flanagan, John Hollott, Marty Middlebrook and Chante Fisk in 2018. Site of one active and one inactive geocache.

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -33.517991, 151.195678

description

Southern Cousins smallest sector offering fun, short yet slightly challenging climbs. Ideal for beginner lead climbers.

Three vertical reo bolts set back from the top of the climbs and one at the base of the face at shin height. Believed to have been used to lower the boulder at the start of Love Handle. Rusted chain coming from beneath boulder and scrape marks on Love Handle indicating possible route of lowering.

approche

From the locked gate head up the access road taking the forks left leg. Passing the high boulder field on your right head to the next fork in the road, taking its left leg. When this leg starts to veer right look left to find a flat cairn at the base of a tree a few meters in. Head past cairn to fence to find descent gully right of last cement post.

informations pour la descente

Stay left of descent cairn then head right to taped tree. Climbs are to your left where the reo comes out of the rock at shin level.

historique

The site of a forgotten geocache called The Siren of Mooney. Can you find the Siren who awaits to tempt you with her climbs?

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -33.514204, 151.192016

description

This sector contains the longest routes and is the quickest to get to.

approche

From the car park head up the access road to the first fork. Turn right and head north towards the three power poles. Spice Ally is the cliff line running along your left overlooking the Hawkesbury.

informations pour la descente

Multiple descent points leading to Spice Ally Sectors which are marked by cairns.

historique

Stumbled upon by Phil Stallard while looking for a location to paint his beloved Hawksbury River in 2017. Developed by Brendon Flanagan and John Hollott in 2018.

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Bloc et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -33.517495, 151.193334

approche

From the car park make your way to the first fork, heading left. At the second fork head right to find yourself at the top of the plateau. Walk past the twin power poles heading north towards the furthest power pole. Approx 30m before this power pole you'll find a cairn in the left hand tree line.

Follow the cairns in and to your right for about 30m where you'll find a big low hanging gum tree and a large natural sandstone 'viewing platform' overlooking the Hawkesbury River. The main descent for this sector is to the right of the 'viewing platform' (facing the river) with a fixed line in place halfway down.

informations pour la descente

Facing the river from the ‘viewing platform’ turn right and take the short scramble down to the next level where you’ll find a fixed access access rope. Take the access rope to the base of the ‘viewing platform’ to find the Divinyl's Wall. The Blocks and Easy Access follow after the DW.

historique

Stumbled upon by Phil Stallard while looking for a location to paint the Hawksbury River in 2017. Developed by Brendon Flanagan, John Hollott and Marty Middlebrook in 2018.

description

No routes bolted. Open for development

historique

Developed by Brendon Flanagan, John Hollott and Marty Middlebrook in 2018.

description

No routes bolted. Open for development.

approche

Continue past The Siren Of Mooney following the access trail past the tree line. Follow the overhead lines south to where the flat ground stops.

informations pour la descente

Facing south descend to the right of the overhead power lines. Evident slopping wall to your left.

Summary:

Tous Style inconnu

Lat / Long: -33.528794, 151.249233

Summary:

Bloc, Escalade sportive et autres styles

Lat / Long: -33.520404, 151.385415

Limitations de l'accès

Climbing is permitted under the 2020 plan of management. It is imperative climbers adhere to a code of conduct. Groups of more than eight people need a permit from the NPWS. https://acansw.files.wordpress.com/2020/09/code-of-conduct-2019.pdf

approche

Park well away from residential areas.

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -33.523212, 151.339054

résumé

A fun afternoon's climbing on Hawkesbury sandstone. All climbs equipped with RB's. Grades 16-24

description

A small crag at top of the hill above Wagstaff shop. Walk in as for Lobster Cave. 8 short sport climbs on reasonable sandstone with grades 16-25

Limitations de l'accès

respect the privacy of local residents and keep a low profile. This is National Park. Leave nothing but chalk marks.

approche

Park in Mulhall St just beyong the Wagstaff general store. Walk up to Albert St (dirt road) and turn L. Walk a further 200mts until you come to a large boulder on the R side of the road. Take the track from here. Walk up this track for about 200mts until you come to a junction (you are looking over the bay and Umina Beach). Turn R and walk a further 200mts. The track divides here. The L track descends to Lobster Cave. Take the R uphill option. You can see the Wagstaff rocks about 150mts up the hill. Skirt around the L side of these rocks and you will come to Dogface after a further 50mts. Climbs are listed R to L commencing with Plate of the Day

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -33.524957, 151.339914

description

Impressively large roof system with a large assortment of climbs. Stays completely dry in the rain but can be affected by mist if the elements are against you. Be prepared for some serious pump.

Limitations de l'accès

This area is on National Park land so be sure to be respectful of the local public and environment.

If parking on Mulhall St but be careful not to encroach on peoples driveways and do not park in front of Number 6. Under no circumstances should you park on Albert st.

approche

*Changed the directions a bit to keep people away from the houses.

Park at the Lobster Beach walking track (17 High View Rd, Wagstaffe) Follow the paved track then the stairs straight up to the top of the hill until just before the stairs that head down to the beach. Turn right here (Don't take the trial before that heads diagonally back down the hill you just came up) and follow the cliff top trail for about 500 m, past the bouldering area up on the hill to the right, and past a wooden house until you reach a group of boulders. Take the downhill left fork for a few metres, then head straight downhill for about 20m.Cut back left under a small overhang and along the base of the cliff, the cave will appear.

éthique

There are still a few projects here. Please respect the bolters and stay off.

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.525054, 151.340626

résumé

Some good bouldering with a couple of great lines. Generally quiet with a mix of shady and sunny options.

description

Useful Info: Guide kindly provided by Jason 'Pommy' Smith.

Limitations de l'accès

If you heading out to this area please respect the privacy of the local residents. This area is within Bouddi National Park. Rangers have threatened to confiscate climbing gear from those using Lobster Cave and it best to keep a low profile.

approche

Walk in via the path at the big boulder opposite 40 Albert St and the first few boulders will be on your left off the path. Alternatively start bouldering at the Birdman Boulder visible opposite 42 Albert St and work your way up. The boulders are listed roughly in order as you get to them from Birdman.

éthique

If using ropes, please protect trees and rock. Only clean what you intend to climb

historique

The Monks brothers bouldered in 'The Top Cave' (primarily on what was to become 'Top Shelf') in the mid 1990s.

Summary:

Escalade traditionnelle et Moulinette

Lat / Long: -33.526673, 151.341243

résumé

Short, broken cliff line. Easy top-rope access using trees and boulders for anchors (protect). Some routes can be climbed ground-up with Trad gearShort stretch of 5-10m slabs and cracks - practice finger, hand, fist and combos, and feet. Practice placing gear, setting anchors and rope soloing

description

Kudyung is honey in Darkinjung language (though not a specific place name for these rocks). Large hives common in trees nearby. Routes named after small inhabitants encountered on the wall. Routes described left to right facing into wall. Grade recommendations welcome, a ground up ascent placing gear in a crack will probably feel harder than a top-roped slab but cracks are like comfort food...only you stuff yourself into them rather than the other way around

Easy-ish slabs and cracks (varying widths) with some minor overhanging top-outs with loose rock and leaf litter. Better to set up anchor before climbing

Limitations de l'accès

Respect local wildlife and habitat

approche

Use Lobster Beach track (from High View Rd) and take the first of two tracks to the right at top of hill (second track goes across to Lobster Cave and Dogface). Head past large angophora tree and up into boulder area, coming first to Farside. Base of Kudyung wall accessed 50m around western side (left) of Farside or scramble down from NW end of Frenchman's Hat.

Walls can also be accessed from Red Wall end of Wagstaffe Boulders. Walk in at the big boulder opposite 40 Albert St and take the left fork straight up the hill.

éthique

Please protect trees and rocks from abrasion or movement. Only clean what you intend to climb.

Summary:

Moulinette et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -33.532855, 151.340006

Summary:

Tous Bloc

résumé

Nice bouldering cave with bomber orange rock with water views. Recommended visiting around sunset as the rock glows orange.

description

Under development. Climbs listed left to right.

Summary:

Tous Bloc

résumé

Collecton of gritty boulders in a sheltered area on the ridgelne with great views and flat landings.

description

Under development

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.532086, 151.348950

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.545589, 151.346277

résumé

Seaside bouldering

approche

Park as for the Box Head lookout and follow the trail to the lookout. Follow the path to the right to get down to the rock platform at ocean height and turn left to walk north around the headland. About 100m north you will find the first routes on a black wall facing the ocean just below the edge of the rock platform.

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.530557, 151.357496

résumé

A well protected bouldering cave with several moderates from V4-V11, and a spectacular view over Killcare and Putty Beach. In Bouddi National Park.

description

A well protected bouldering cave with several moderates from V4-V11, and a spectacular view over Killcare and Putty Beach. In Bouddi National Park. Short walk in, moderate grades, great view. What more could you want?!

Limitations de l'accès

We are climbing on Darkinjung land. Take your rubbish with you and respect the rules of the 2020 management plan.

Climbing is permitted under the 2020 plan of management. It is imperative climbers adhere to a code of conduct. Groups of more than eight people need a permit from the NPWS. https://acansw.files.wordpress.com/2020/09/code-of-conduct-2019.pdf

approche

Head up Hawkes Head Drive, the sealed road turns into a bumpy sandy road after around 400m you will see an area on the left hand side blocked off by large sandstone blocks. Park on the side near here. Walk in past the blocks and continue to make your way to the cliff line. Once you've hit the cliffline turn left and you will come across a path through the bush which will walk straight through then wrap around right, back towards the cliffline. Once back at the cliff line turn left and you will walk over a cliff with white paint scattered all over it. From this point walk down into the hollowed out rock which a great view over Killcare. From here, walk down and right through a collapsed cave system and after 20m you'll arrive at the cave.

(If you cant drive your car over the bumps, park at the end of a sealed road and walk up)

historique

Jason Piper and Tim Hasnoot found the cave in 2010 and established the first line "Mel Gibson Memorial" in 2020 Jason told Tom Hodgson about the cave which he then came and established most of the remaining lines in the cave

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.534820, 151.358761

résumé

Seaside bouldering.

description

A single overhanging crack boulder problem with an ocean breeze.

Limitations de l'accès

Remains dry at high tides up to 1.6m but may be wet in strong easterly swell. In the shade from about 11am onwards.

We are climbing on Darkinjung land. Take your rubbish with you and respect the rules of the 2020 management plan.

Climbing is permitted under the 2020 plan of management. It is imperative climbers adhere to a code of conduct. Groups of more than eight people need a permit from the NPWS. https://acansw.files.wordpress.com/2020/09/code-of-conduct-2019.pdf

approche

Park close to Killcare SLSC and scramble across the boulders at the south end of the beach for about 100m to find The Killcare Crack on a large boulder with an ocean facing overhang.

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et autres styles

Lat / Long: -33.513789, 151.373574

résumé

One of the best crags on the Central Coast for climbing in the 22-25 grade range. Most of the classic climbs have been re-bolted with rings

description

Almost Taipan quality sandstone 5 mins from the road

approche

From the Sydney-Newcastle expressway take the Gosford exit, turn right at Kariong into Woy Woy Rd. Cross the railway line at Woy Woy and follow signs to Kincumber, crossing the Rip Bridge. 3.5 kms after the bridge turn right into Wards Hill Rd at the Ampol servo. Drive to the top of Wards Hill and park on the corner of Maitland Bay Dr. There is a track from the bottom of the car park that can be followed to the top of Black Panther wall. Turn left at the top of the cliff and follow the track around to the base. The main wall is about 50m further along from Black Panther wall. It is also possible to walk back down the hill to the last hairpin bend where the dented guardrail is and head over a large slabby boulder to the base of Black Panther wall.

historique

Developed by Paul Riviere many, many years ago

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.527504, 151.381598

résumé

A short walk in from the Marie Byles lookout brings you to a small low lying cave and a little wall with some fun blocs.

description

The area faces the east, and can be mossy after minimal use. Take care to only remove what is necessary for each route if recleaning.

approche

Park at Marie Byles lookout, take the right path at the end of the carpark and follow it down until it joins the Bullimah Spur walking trail. Here you turn right and follow the trail for a few minutes. When you reach the area you will be standing ontop of the cave.

Cave location is approx -33.527527, 151.381646

historique

Found by Jordan Richardson and developed by the local gang.

Summary:

Tous Style inconnu

Lat / Long: -33.522175, 151.385189

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.526324, 151.406422

résumé

Seaside bouldering on solid rock

description

Seaside bouldering mostly in the easier grades. About 30min walk in.

Limitations de l'accès

Best at low tide and low swell to avoid the boulders being wet from the spray. Swells up to 1.5 m can be ok at pow tide.

approche

Park at the end of Grahame Dr in the car park on the right side and walk down the Old Quarry Trail. Continue straight where it changes to the Bombi Moor Firetrail at the fork, and continue on until the turning circle end of fire trail. Take the walking trail off to the right and down the stairs until you see the gully that leads to the ocean platform with the boulders to the south.

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.520170, 151.401237

résumé

Just a few cool aesthetic boulders in a lovely forest. Easy access on the Bouddi Spur walking track towards Maitland Bay.

description

10mins easy walk down the Bouddi Spur walking track will get you to a small cluster of sandstone boulders on the walking track. The area features one main overhanging wall with potential for some great lines topping out (V5 -V8??), as well as a couple of large detached boulders with lines on them too. One or two lines have had an ascent but the best are still sitting dormant. Please DO NOT establish any new bouldering here off the walking trail. The main boulders all require pads placed on the walking track so no extra vegetation has been damaged for bouldering, let's keep it this way.

approche

Park at the Mt Bouddi carpark and walk 10mins down the Bouddi Spur walking track to the boulders which are on the trail. Follow the stone steps down past the picnic shelter, walk down hill for a few minutes before the track crosses a saddle. After this the track continues up past some chossy outcrops before dropping down immediately to the boulders. You'll know you're there when you're standing on the track under a bulging overhang with some stone steps below.

éthique

Please do not establish any bouldering off the walking track itself so as to minimise impact on vegetation. This is a quiet walking track but there will still be occasional people wandering by. With this in mind: please give way to others and allow passage by moving your pads for people; avoid bringing your boombox and bad taste in music; and leave no trace of climbing by brushing off your chalky mess. Also, not good here in the wet. Brittle rock and not much shelter.

historique

There has likely been ascents of these problems in the past but I can't find a history of it. They're just super obvious lines on a walking track so I figure someone has had a crack before.

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.534280, 151.348118

description

Collection of boulders just east off Hawke Head drive. Boulders are described north to south. See approach info above each boulder.

Summary:

Bloc, Escalade sportive et autres styles

Lat / Long: -33.535490, 151.296762

description

A small but impressive little wall blessed with solid rock and a short stroll from the car. Generally the wall is vertical to slightly overhanging with the exception of the small roof below the 'Arete' in the centre. The wall is quite high in the centre with some of the problems having deceptively difficult top outs so a good spotter is recommended highly. A few projects remain to be done; however the wall to the right past the main wall has been left un climbed. All problems are top outs and are sure to get your pulse going.

Useful Info: Guide kindly provided by Dan da Silva.

approche

Find Mt Ettalong Road 'Umina' and follow this towards Patonga. Drive 3.5km past the Pearl Beach turn off until you come to quite a sharp left hand bend with a rocky out-crop on the corner (if you start heading down the steep road into Patonga, you've gone too far). Park on the left of the road, just after a telegraph pole where there is a large clear area for several cars.

Walk back towards the corner and head right into the bush near the second telegraph pole (you should be able to see the cliff line up on your right). Keep heading right when you come to the small cave, there is one project to be done here on the overlapping roof. Follow the broken cliff line for a short distance until you come to the obvious main wall with the central Arête feature.

Summary:

Style inconnu, Escalade sportive et autres styles

Lat / Long: -33.512661, 151.305586

description

Nice sport crag with easy access from Umina.

Limitations de l'accès

Off Lone Pine Ave, Umina. Park on the steep section of the road before it goes round to the right. Scramble down a faint track to the cliff line running towards the west. Anchors on the routes are often a single thin U bolt or a machine bolt on top of cliff. A sparerope is handy for the area close to carpark to set up lower off points and it is easy to get to the top of Bike Boy area. For the climbs further west, it is a mistake to try and walk along the cliff top as it is close to peoples yards, and access is dangerous. A long stick clip will be useful in that area. Bolt plates are required on many routes.

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.536044, 151.308736

description

The coast's birth place of bouldering discovered by Anthony Alexander. Many fantastic problems in two main sections 'The pergola' & 'Brown Room' Many classic's included the three star 'power pergolas' v5 the slopey madness of 'knob jockey' v3, Jason Pipers highball roof 'persistence resistance' v8 and the mega pumper lip traverse 'Rats caused broken brains' v9.

Find Patonga drive, Umina, as you approach the top of the windy road that goes up the hill make a left hand turn into the little car park for the big water tower (It's before the road crosses Pearl Beach Drive. Park here and take the obvious fire trail to Mt ettalong look out, through the locked gate and up the trail a couple hundred meters. The track takes a slight left then right hand turn and there is a big obvious gum tree, look for the track on your left just before the tree. This will take you down to below the cliff line and into the pergola area which is the first low roof you come to. Beyond this is the big pocketed roof of the brown room.

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.535417, 151.310735

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.538303, 151.293374

description

Guide here: http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=area&area_id=939

approche

Head south through Woy Woy / 'Umina' Beach and follow the signs to Pearl Beach – Patonga. Follow the winding road past the water tower (Brown Room) and take the right fork towards Patonga (other road goes to Pearl Beach). Park about a kilometre after the fork on the inside of a right hand corner. Walk back about 10m on the other side of the road to find the track in past the bones.

Summary:

Tous Style inconnu

description

Opposite the turn off for 'The Brown room' - head to the south side of the ridge and scamble down to the base of a large cave. The first 4 routes face SW on a 10m high wall. There are several other routes of unknown heritage around.

approche

Walk from water tower at Mt Ettalong towards lookout for 1 minute then drop to the south (towards Pearl Beach)

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.545851, 151.274428

description

A small but impressive little wall blessed with solid rock and a short stroll from the car. Generally the wall is vertical to slightly overhanging with the exception of the small roof below the Arete in the centre. The wall is quite high in the centre with some of the problems having deceptively difficult top outs so a good spotter is recommended highly.

Location: Find Mt Ettalong Road Umina and follow this towards Patonga. Drive 3.5km past the Pearl Beach turn off until you come to quite a sharp left hand bend with a rocky out-crop on the corner (if you start heading down the steep road into Patonga, you’ve gone too far). Park on the left of the road, just after a telegraph pole where there is a large clear area for several cars.

(NEW ENTRY) From the car park, head back up the road towards the corner. If you start walking on the road you've gone too far. Just as the clearing ends duck into the bush on your right and follow the trail up. You will climb over a small-ish wall after about 10m, then head through and left following the cleared out trail to the main wall. Safer and less fuss than the original entry.

(ORIGINAL ENTRY) Still a possible point of entry, but a touch less safe. Walk back towards the corner and head right into the bush near the second telegraph pole (you should be able to see the cliff line up on your right). Keep heading right when you come to the small cave, there is one project to be done here on the overlapping roof. Follow the broken cliff line for a short distance until you come to the obvious main wall with the central Arête feature.

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.531619, 151.297296

description

Mostly hard climbing on subtle edges and ribs on beautiful golden rock.

approche

Park at -33.536683, 151.294785 at the start of the Sani-Depot Fire Trail on the north side of Patonga Dr and follow the trail until it clears and a fork appears. Take the right fork and follow for about 10 mins until you see a vague cairn on the left hand side (cairn often gets removed). Follow cairns around to base of a small cliff. The trail is overgrown and can be hard to follow.

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.532207, 151.282692

Summary:

Bloc et Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -33.537024, 151.304262

Limitations de l'accès

Follow Patonga Drive past Umina Beach and up the hill past the Mt Ettalong water tower (Brown Room). Park on your right opposite the turn off to Pearl Beach drive (there is a parking bay). Cross the road and head over the guard rail into the bush at the point where the two roads meet. You should be above the cliff line almost immediately, veer left where you can scurry down to the base of the cliff and walk back right through a little corridor and you should be standing at the start of the big cave. There are a cluster of boulder problems on the right hand end of the wall on the steep section of the low roof. The climbs are above here. Our Modern Needs goes out the roof and travereses left at the end via some underclings

Summary:

Escalade sportive, Escalade traditionnelle et autres styles

Lat / Long: -33.526491, 151.298126

résumé

Afternoon shade and seabreeze

Limitations de l'accès

Follow Lakeview Pde at Umina onto Myola Rd and park. Crag visible up hill

approche

3 minutes walk from car

Summary:

Tous Style inconnu

Lat / Long: -33.536219, 151.311890

Summary:

Tous Style inconnu

Lat / Long: -33.552770, 151.289030

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.548384, 151.212628

description

Brooklyn is a town on the Central Coast of New South Wales with a population of approximately 750 people. It lies just 56 kilometres north of Sydney's CBD.

approche

Brooklyn is easily accessible by car via the Pacific Highway or Pacific Motorway.

où dormir

The Brooklyn Motel provides accommodation for travellers.

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -33.420093, 151.166018

résumé

Great beginner crag! Short walk in, well bolted and lots to choose from in the easier grade ranges. Ring bolts with ring bolt anchors.

description

A small crag with a series of easier sport rotues, all kindly bolted. A flat sunny aspect and short routes makes this a good place for beginning leaders.

approche

Approach Popran rd from the north. 100m after you pass the Homnay creek bridge on Popran road a fire trail appears on the left. Park here out of the way. Vague trails start from popran rd about 10m south of the fire trail. Head diagonally right up the hill, passing some rock cairns, through the bush. Once you hit the cliff line head right (looking at the cliff) and you will find the crag. Routes are listed left to right.

éthique

This is National Park so follow standard rules.

Summary:

Style inconnu et Escalade sportive

Summary:

Tous Style inconnu

Summary:

Escalade sportive et Style inconnu

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.450926, 151.450114

description

Only a few climbs here but fun and easy to get to. Not accessible in strong swells or high tide.

approche

Take the trail south of the skillion to the rock platform. The main boulder is beside the overhanging cliff on the left. The traverse boulder is in the middle of the rock platform.

Summary:

La plupart Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.275109, 151.420653

résumé

Boulder field surrounding the summit on Chapmans Hill, Wyong.

description

Boulder field with super easy access surrounding the summit on Chapmans Hill, Wyong. Some great easier grades and good potential for harder lines and highballs.

Limitations de l'accès

The gate to the carpark closes 1 hour after sunset and opens 1 hour after sunrise. Park below the gate and walk up if you plan on climbing late.

approche

Once you're in Wyong, Follow Crystal Crescent to the top of Chapman's Hill. You will pass through a gate (closes 1hr after sunset) and go past a water tower. Park in the Cul-de-sac. Walk through the sandstone blocks and follow the trail the same direction as the approach road (not the stair to the left). The first boulders are visible from the carpark and continue to wrap around the summit. All boulders are accessible with minimal scrambling.

éthique

Minimize impact and trace. Good idea to take some rubbish with you.

historique

No known history.

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.275116, 151.420963

description

First boulder you come to on the left, approx 30m from car park.

approche

From car park, walk west through sandstone blocks and it's 25-30m up on your left

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.274893, 151.420631

description

Boulder visible from the car park. Up the trail and on the right. Slightly overhanging into slab top outs.

approche

Walk through the sandstone blocks and up the trail for approximately 40m and the boulder is on your right.

Summary:

Escalade traditionnelle et Moulinette

description

Three buttresses to 8m high sitting under the telecommunication tower. They each have bolts( hanger needed) and a u bolt on top.

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.274933, 151.420336

description

The large wave boulder that can be seen on your left as you walk up the main path.

approche

Up the main Chapman's Hill approach path about 50 metres on your left, scramble up faint path. Alternatively walk to Sunnyvale boulder and scramble south down some small boulders.

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.274968, 151.420214

description

The Western (West-NorthWest) end of the summit boulders. Shady from 3pm with good breeze in summer.

approche

Follow the trail counter clockwise for approximately 80m around the summit and scramble up left.

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.275092, 151.420187

description

West-facing Section of nearly vertical slab wall with a flat top and right angled arete ranging from 3.5-5m high

approche

From Sunnyvale, continue around the summit counter clockwise for about 20m

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -33.252173, 151.371866

résumé

Small scattered cliffline at the base of Olney State Forest

description

Small scattered cliffline at the base of Olney State Forest. Sandstone/conglomerate. Quite a lot of choss in some spots but there are good lines scattered throughout the area, and potential for a couple of sport routes. Be careful of Funnel-webs. They're very common here.

approche

Park at the intersection of Watagan Forest Drive, Watagan Forest Road, and Brothers Road. Walk down Brothers Road for 300m, turn left where you can see a boulder about 20m in and tramp up to the cliffline. Avoid using any used mountain bike tracks as approach trails.

historique

No known history although I did find a random single Petzl bolt plate fixed onto the top of the larger cliff there. Possibly from someone scoping the rock out or abseiling.

Summary:

description

A prominent large boulder approximately 8-10m high at the most. The south side features a beautiful crack which is kept protected from elements by an overhanging cave. The North side features a vertical wall of varying heights and the east face has potential for sport lines.

Central Coast Guide

Table of contents

1. Central Coast 1,799 routes in Region

1.1. Palmdale 2 routes in Crag

1.1.1. Hells Kitchen 1 route in Area

1.2. The Entrance Baths 11 routes in Crag

1.3. Berrys Head 30 routes in Field

1.3.1. The Anvil 3 routes in Boulder

1.3.2. Warm Up Boulder 3 routes in Boulder

1.3.3. Ironstone Cove 1 route in Boulder

1.3.4. The Back Ally 4 routes in Boulder

1.3.5. Missed Opportunity Block 13 routes in Boulder

1.3.6. Ben's Backyard 6 routes in Boulder

1.4. Mossy forest 10 routes in Crag

1.4.1. Camber bloc 1 route in Boulder

1.4.2. Playdoh bloc 2 routes in Boulder

1.4.3. The bunker 1 route in Boulder

1.4.4. little pride rock 2 routes in Boulder

1.4.5. The centrepiece 2 routes in Boulder

1.4.6. slab lane 0 routes in Area

1.4.7. Wave boulder 2 routes in Boulder

1.5. Forresters Beach 23 routes in Crag

1.5.1. White Tower environs 5 routes in Area

1.6. Way Out West 9 routes in Crag

1.7. West Gosford 76 routes in Crag

1.7.1. Mangina Cave 3 routes in Area

1.7.2. Amphitheatre 9 routes in Area

1.7.3. Fantasy Lane Area 14 routes in Area

1.7.4. Choc a Block Choc Rock 2 routes in Area

1.7.5. Pimp Boulder 4 routes in Area

1.7.6. Rock Soldiers Arete 11 routes in Area

1.7.7. Little Orange Over hang 13 routes in Area

1.7.8. Sunshine Boulders 5 routes in Area

1.7.9. House Of Praise 15 routes in Cliff

1.8. Apex boulders 32 routes in Crag

1.8.1. bijou 1 route in Boulder

1.8.2. Apex bloc 4 routes in Boulder

1.8.3. Lilly boulder 8 routes in Boulder

1.8.4. Spectators 5 routes in Boulder

1.8.5. Toad bloc 4 routes in Boulder

1.8.6. Green house 4 routes in Boulder

1.8.7. Gem stone 3 routes in Boulder

1.8.8. Candy shop 3 routes in Boulder

1.9. Popran 26 routes in Crag

1.9.1. Leech Bar 3 routes in Area

1.10. Rumbalara boulders 18 routes in Crag

1.10.1. Henry's Cave 1 route in Boulder

1.10.2. Big Mumas House 6 routes in Boulder

1.10.3. The Hide Out 1 route in Boulder

1.10.4. Split bloc 1 route in Boulder

1.10.5. Pinnacle Walls 1 route in Field

1.10.6. Bulbasaur Boulder 8 routes in Boulder