Koolewong Guide

Start matched on the right facing crimp. Move up the left side of the scoop to top out. Arete is off up until it changes angle up high.

Run and jump to the top jugs, off of the small footer at knee height.

Rising lip traverse along the top of the left hand wall. Good warmup

Start low on the triangular ironstone feature. Up using the arete and avoiding the wall behind

Lay down start under roof, pull up into roof with all limbs in crack and on rails, then head to right with no feet below roof,and finish up open chimney to top out using both walls, body jams, and whatever takes your fancy

The back pocketed wall. Sit start and up the left side of the bikini feature. Big reach around to halfway break, then finish on the wall out left

Low sit start, up the right side of the bikini feature to finish on the half way break. Topout still not linked?

Stand start on ledge. Up left along beak and up. Basically the top out of Bikini Right. Highball

Sit start ledge pockets to trav R on break. Top out on slab

Start matched on the lowest left facing sloper moving left and up to gain small horizontal crack then up over the lip with either a high foot or jump.

Shared start with 'The Chalkboard' but move directly up along awful slopey crimps then tiny crimp rail to lip. All holds left of the start hold are off.

Open Project

Sit start as low as possible on the right side of ships bow and follow the huge slopey jugs to top out right at the top.

Start as for Lara's Lips, traverse left low using the bowl and up from the horn.

Same as Lara's Bottom Lip but keep heading left to just before the tree, then up.

Start matched on the small incut edge under the hueco. Move directly up via the small shallow pocket and small crimps, pulling through the big hold just below the lip. All jugs left and right are off for both hands and feet.

Sit start next to tree and go straight up

Sit start compressing between two side pull crimps, and not great feet. Dyno/Driveby left hand to the juggy rail. Top out as per other problems.

Stand start on the big flake. Mantle up and left.

Crouch start on the sloper on the lip of slab. Move up to the flake and then top the same as Fat Jack.

On the south side of the boulder. Sit start on two pockets moving directly up via slopers and jug to top out.

Sit start below the hollow bone feature just to the right of the access slope on the water side of the boulder. Up past a good flat hold to a big throw over the top.

True sit start to Womb Raider, starting on two slopey pockets half a metre down and right of the original holds. Tricky start move, like an easier version of the core movements start.

Start 4m right of Womb Raider in the slopey 1 and 2 finger pockets and traverse up and left into Womb Raider top out.

Emmanuel Madayag

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

A Lesson in Core Movement direct. After the crux of core movement, head straight up to a slopey edge and delicately mantle your way out using various slopers and blind feet.

Direct top out of Eli's Closed Proj.

Start as for A Lesson In Core Movements and head up and right. Once at the lip, keep traversing right to top out as for Mick's Arete Left.

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Start on the two slopers, a tricky sit move gains the right hand gaston finishing with a final jump to the lip. Not sure on the grade.

Sit start at the bottom right hand corner of the arete then move up and left on horrible slopes to a hard top out. NOTE: The far undercling holds on Micks arete are off.

Sit start on the bottom corner of he arete and follow slopes and shallow pockets on the right hand of the arete. Slam the top slopes and commit to the scary top out. Classic

Stand start to Mick's Arete on sloper and undercling.

Stand start and straight up to the press out mantle. A great technical line that gets progressively harder to an easyish mantle.

Sit start on the lowest lip hold at the little cavelet before the arete. Bust up left to a crimp rail, and start trending up and right before a slabby/layback style top out. Keeping on the face of the boulder until the end. (Starting mega jugs of the arete problem are out)

Stand start on decent edge. Move straight up to top out.

Dyno from the start edge to the horn/highest point.

Start in the low break. Big move to lip then up headwall to top out.

Sit start at base of arête and climb overhanging arête

Sit start at left hand side under little roof. Pull up on some holds below the lip with feet on the back ledge. Move up to the slopey break then climb the little face with small crimp rails. Right of the crack is off for hands as is the left arete.

Sit start deep under the roof on the right hand side.From deep in the cave climb out using some underclings etc in the roof. Pull the lip using various slopey holds to gain the big break, then punch over the bloc on top for a tricky mantle. This problem does not use the big jug on the right

Start matched on the low rail. Trend right to take a right crimp, then up to jugs and mantle.

Sit start around the corner from the big jug.Starts matched on a good flat edge. Climb left to gain the big jug. Punch up to the break then exit via the tricky mantle. The original line here.

Sit start around the R/H corner on the flat edge.Climb out via the easiest way.

Sit start under the L/H roof as for 'Jade Emperor'. From the sit gain the good slopey rail, a low traverse right gains the good jug then top out via the mantle exit.

Start as the ming Dynasty to the big jug, then drop down and traverse low to the good slopey rail on Jade emperor, match it then finish as for that problem. All the higher holds above the line of the good slopey rail are off

As for ming the merciless but eliminate the big jug for your hands. There are some small crimps before it you can use.

The downhill facing arete. Sit start in the slopey jug hole and follow sidepulls and a mono to a desperate top out out right a bit. Nails at 5

Shared start with 'Fire In the Hole' but moving right and up along small slopey crimps, then jumping for the lip and mantling over.

Vision by Tom Hodgson climbed by William Frost-Foster.

Just left of the left arete straight up on good but diagonally sloping holds

Starts matched on obvious jug on the right side of the left arête. Head straight up using poor slopers and side pulls to mantle straight over the top. An awesome line.

Starts about 2m to the right of Han Solo. One move then a big throw/huck to the lip and mantle

2m right from Huck like Tom, Towards the lower end of the bloc. Sit start with left hand side pull and right hand crimp. Head directly up and mantle out.

Low sit start with feet under roof. Up to the slopey break, left along it then up

Straight up - project?

Sit start then swing out right over the void and up

The vertical crack like feature facing the track. SIt start

The large round pocket right of S, straight up, sit start

The inverted V right of InH, straight up, sit start

The arête to the right of TFD, sit start

Sit start near descent boulder on the face towards slab at diagonal ironstone rail. Head left and up face

Sit start on right arête of bay side of boulder. Up arête to undercling and when on slab follow ramp left to tree branch descent

The right side of the low arête starting at 2 large dishes. Straight up

Start as for WC at large dishes near arête and follow diagonal line right to top out

The large boulder to the left of the main approach track. Has 3 u bolts on top for anchors. This is the left route on the south face. Come in from arête. Single U-Bolt on top

Climbs just to the left of the right arête of the south face. Single U-Bolt on top shared with 'Trackside boulder 1'

Boulder up 1m right of the bolted arête route, on the up hill wall facing the corridor the track runs through. Easily TR from a U-bolt immediately above

2m right of arête, just before small trees. Well featured.

Opposite the trackside boulder and 6m left of the twin cracks is a blunt arête, just past a ledge that is half way up the wall. This climbs the left side of the blunt arête

The right side of the blunt arête 6 m left of the cracks. Up to knob with slabby top out.

A fun traverse link up starting with a couple of wires in 'Hand crack' and 'Finger crack' on the left hand end of the wall, then using the first bolt of 'Kids Cruise', the second bolt of 'Slab Slapper' and the third bolt of 'Superstition'. Fun way to get used to traversing

On the east wall of the corridor, the left of 2 cracks going up to tree. Anchor off large tree, be sure you use soft material to protect tree from slings.

On the east wall of the corridor, the thin crack going up to tree.

Just right of the cracks is a juggy slab on great rock. Single U-bolt on top.

The middle sports route on the east wall of the corridor. Shares single U-bolt on top with 'Superstition'

Balancy traverse start from left onto face above small cave then up slab to U-bolt. 1m right of SS.

Down and right of small cave where track meets crag, as the direction of the cliff changes there is a boulder at track level with a diagonal seam leading to a scoop. Sit start, climb up through scoop then left to top out at large angaphora.

The first climb you come to after leaving the main track and contouring along the base of the cliff towards the caves. There are 4 routes just before the first honeycombed cave. Climb the chimney to ledge and step onto face following seam and flake (wires) with small cams in horizontals. U bolt on platform above route.

WARNING: Gear placements are not solid, rock is soft and feels a lot harder than a 15!

The blunt arête right of chimney up three carrots to single U-bolt on top.

Undercut start onto slab right of blunt arête to share single U-bolt anchor with 'Charlottes web'

The overhung juggy left arête of the first cave. There is a bolt 3m back. Suggested to bring second up route to clean.

Climb the overhanging crack on the left edge of the first major cave using only the crack for hands. It meets Fangs at its 3rd bolt and it's easy to walk off into the cave. Lead it on gear, top rope or solo

Climb the crack as for incy wincy but all hand holds are in.

Right side of first cave, sit start at undercut then up over prow

Alerte Protections: First bolt

At the left side of the second cave start up arch to step left at second bolt and up face past third bolt to single U-bolt on top.

Sit start to Cave 2 climb at undercut, up over prow .Easy to traverse off right when level with first bolt

Opposite the right side of the second cave is a pyramidal boulder with a narrow arête on the uphill side. Sit start and climb arête to top out.

Right of the third cave and just left of Fox wall is an arête with 2 ring bolts starting off a triangular boulder. Single U-bolt on top. A finger sized cam will protect final moves. Use a short draw or single 'biner on first bolt to minimise fall distance.

Just right of corner on reddish slab to vertical finish. Single U-bolt after topping out

1m right of RF, up to single bolt trending slightly right and top out. Using single U-bolt to left.

Left of TD, bouldery slab to first bolt, mantle, then more easily to top. Use bolt above TD for anchor.

Awkward overhung start at small triangular cave feature where face abuts another block requiring hand jam, then more easily up arête

The left arête of the wall to the right of fox wall. Mind the tree. Ring bolts. Project, stay off.

The right side of wall starting at cairn. Project, stay off.

The arête at right side of wall . Climbs the right face. Unfortunately first bolt makes you swing around arête if you come off, just start with second clipped. A long sling over the edge from anchors on platform will protect last moves.

1m to right of arête with mantle to top out, the left most route on the wall with a chimney at its right end. High first carrot bolt! Single U-bolt on top shared with 'Jack Jumpers'

The middle route on the wall with high first carrot bolt to begin, protected straight up to finish with a cam, or step left to finish as for 'Bull Ants'. Shares single U-bolt on top with 'Bull Ants'

The route just left of chimney, add a few extra grades for the top mantle, but best to preplace anchor on tree and just lower off.

Bridge up between walls to slightly tricky finish. Preplace anchor off tree to avoid sketchy leaf littered finish.

Just right of chimney up wall and arête. Grade 10 with preplaced anchor to avoid mantle. Ironstone buckets. There is a single hex bolt above this route to anchor off

Interesting climbing on ironstone knobs. A single U-bolt above route. 2m R of 'Jugs', best route at the crag probably!

Straight up small rails to first bolt then traverse right to second bolt. Then straight up thin crimps to anchors

Just right of arête on most rightward wall of crag, undercut start but huge jugs the whole way, opposite Star boulder. Originally used anchor of 'Knobs' but this is about 5 metres from top and causes huge rope drag and loads the U-bolt incorrectly

Middle of face around arete to the right of 'Knobs', up centre of well featured slab. No anchor to be found, best to avoid for now.

Steep climbing, out the 45deg wall, short but pumpy.

Starting 2m from the left arete, out through the steep cave.

Up the short wall to roof, then top out on slopey holds.

Good holds up face to a giant leap through the cave to top out.

Right hand end of main cave. Up left of the arete on the slopey holds to lower off.

Left most climb on the first cave you get to walking up the track. Lower of under small rooflet.

Start in back of cave, out lip and up on crimpers to lower off under rooflet.

Tough dyno start to a hard move to pull lip and head up crimpers to lower off.