Wondabyne Guide

The crack at the right hand end of the undercut section at the bottom left of the Black Slab.

The crack 20m right of 'Granuous'.

The twin cracks 7m right of 'Excrescense'.

Up the slab 1m right of the left arete.

1m right of 'E-'.

Left of windblown cave below large bulging wall. Strenuous. Up good crack and chossy crack to small cave. Over roof (thin) and up to Xanthorrhoea. Wander up the chimney behind.

Small corner below right arete of windblown cave. Up corner, over bulge to arete. Up into squeeze cave then exit left.

As for 'The Liar' but exit right to the Xanthorrhoea.

The wide, right facing corner with the stump of a small tree at the base, 30m right of chossy caves.

Line of scoops 5m right of 'Plaster Cast Crack'. Up to roof then hand traverse left to join 'Plaster Cast Crack'. Protection looks dubious.

Very thin crack 15m right of 'Mightor'. Harder than it looks. Up over ledges and move diagonally right near top.

Marked. Black undercut wall 20m left of camping cave. Up to the Xanthorrhoea.

The obvious orange corner in camping cave. Up nice corner to ledge. Can optionally belay here, then downclimb to the right or continue up unappealing blocky wall above (P2).

Up as for 'Irongut' P2 to chossy cave, then traverse left. Note: was not completed on FA due to lack of protection.

Left hand vegetated gully of Great Grey Wall. Solid tree belay.

Up gully (Beginner's Climb) for 5m then step right and follow the finger crack, still "partially vegetated " after 40 years. Excellent wires in crack. Tree belay 4m back.

1m right of 'Suzy' Up (thin) left of flared chimney then move right to the final crack on 'Layla'.

Head directly up chimney 1m right of 'Bionic Chook', then up the crack above.

10m right of L at short, thin flake. Good sustained climbing, but the upper crux is very runout. Follows a direct line up the highest section of the Great Grey Wall, stepping slightly right near the top to the rounded groove. Take a good selection of cams from aliens up to number 4 Camalot size, and I'd recommend that you place a number of equalised midsize cams in the obvious break at about 1/2 height, since they protect the next 7m or so of climbing (including the upper crux). Tree belay 20m back from the edge. Named after the cocktail that was shared by the first ascentionists after Ron came within a whisker of winging off the upper crux on the FA!

10m right of 'Tequila Powerade', below weakness in middle of the walll. Not bad. Deceptively tricky and sustained climbing up the weakness. When it peters out (at about 15m) traverse right for 7m to a ledge and a short rounded chimney. Up this to a tree belay. Desperately needs a direct finish (a line veering off to the left at the top will probably go).

8m right of 'Farewell Miriam'. Up to chossy break in overhang, then move left 2m and up smaller weakness. Up then join traverse of 'Farewell Miriam'.

Up groove and crack to overhang as for 'Brooce' then move left and up through obvious break. Follow crack with tree to top.

Start 2m right of Gibson. Mantle lower ledges and up to corner to good pro in orange crack. Avoid football size loose blocks at top of corner, lay away flake and over roof to the right. Massive horizontal branch belay.

Slanting corner crack around corner right of 'Tango'.

Obvious square corner high on wall. A good climb. Up face to ledge, traverse right 3m then up to corner. Up this to the top.

On rock 5m left of 'Branches of the Almighty'. Hand traverse left to the lower ledge on the arete. Up to next ledge. Traverse right to the base of the thin crack in the centre of the wall. Aid up this until it widens, then free to top.

Obvious clean corner in centre of cliffline. A great climb. Straight up the corner. Unless you have tube chocks, the last gear is at about half height, which puts you on a 15m ground fall through the crux (a rounded, insecure layback right near the top).

Up corner to ledge with garden. Follow this for 8m then up the arete at end (unprotected). Start: as for 'Branches of the Almighty'.

1. Up thin crack to base of flake. Strenuously up flake to cave. Walk 7m right to piton belay.

2. Continue along ledge to base of small corner above. Follow this to the top. Start: the thin flake 3m right of 'Branches of the Almighty'.

1. Up corner to cave (piton belay).

2. As for 'Fragile'.

Start: Corner 7m right of 'Fragile'.

1. Move diagonally up towards tree, then move left to cave.

2. As for 'Fragile'.

Start: 1m right of Gilmour's Gout

Up undercut overhung groove to small cave. Traverse delicately left and up to tree and cave. Pull over roof directly above tree then up ramp to top.

Start: 8m right of Lillee's Luck.

Up the chimney and crack in left hand wall. Tree belay.

Start: 10m right of 'Calm Before the Storm'.

Up crack and wall directly above.

Start: 7m right of 'Uranus'.

Peg left under roof to corner. Nut up this then free up blank wall. Finish up 'Callous Crack'.

Start: 2m right of 'Callous Crack'

Break in face 13m left of cave with shells. Up pleasant crack to tree belay.

A large rock sits over the top of the wall. Up crack in corner, then move right onto face and up to the right of the capstone.

Start: at base of wall 5m left of 3 sided square gully.

Step up into crack, then delicately onto face and up pleasant flared chimney.

Start: 1m left of 3 sided gully below roof and face forming thin chimney.

Left hand corner crack of 3 sided square gully.

The central crack in the 3 sided square gully.