Bouddi National Park Guide

The first line on the R side of this wall. Hard move to start if doing direct and up past RB to first (bolt reinforced) flakey plate then move R to 2nd (bolt reinforced) flakey plate and up to anchors

This line runs up the centre of the wall starting 1mt L of "Plate of the Day". Up to bolt reinforced flake. and easy ground up to anchors

Starts 4mts L of Blubber Fish. The ramp trending L then up past two artificial holds (bolted and glued). Move R again up to L facing corner then to anchors

Start as for Nauti Buoy up to the artificial holds then straight up to anchors

Starts 3mts L of Nauti Bouy in the alcove. Bridge your way up R passing two RB's in the roof to join Sin Bad. Finish as for SB anchors

Starts in the alcove but climbs the overhang opposite the start of WNKoF. Use same first 2 RB's as for WNKoF then hard moves up past the holds on the L side of the wall. Finish at the anchors

Next route 2mts L of Ramora (opposite wall to WNKoF). Start at the base of the obvious flake. Past first 2 RB's then R (crux) to gain the same upper section of Ramora.

The western face of the outcrop known as Dog Face, at the top of the hill above Wagstaffe General Store.

FFTRA Will Monks, Peter Monks, Dec 96.

The first crack you come to.

Hex bolts to lower off outside cave.

Up the nice orange/red rock moving leftward at the 3rd bolt. Then cast off left from good block to slopey crimpers and reachy moves, to get across to 4th bolt. Trend up and left to get stood up via little footers. Great technical climbing, that is well protected.

First line of bolts inside the cave. Climb to the ledge then lean back to the small roof and follow right to anchors. Alt start also known as Spider Pig

Follows the seam near the start of the cave on slopey goodness to ledge then traverse roof to Lofty's (spider pig's) anchors.

Up the first 2 bolts of Calamari to big break, then left along break to finish up Beautiful Box.

Short, powerful, technical! Bust through the crux of calamari then head left on bad holds. Wrestle the bulge and traverse to finish at the anchors of Spider Pig. Bonus points if you find the bat-hang rest.

Straight up wall and through roof on knob hold, then out right to finish on single ring.

A direct start to Omega Free with a hard compression boulder and a blank spot..

Tough line finishing on the lip of the first cave. Up past 3 bolts then move out left and then straight out roof.

Start on "Omega Free" but go straight up after 3rd bolt to lower off "Fishermans Basket"

Start 2m right of Omega free, straight up to Fisherman Basket anchours.

Start up Omega Free and traverse through Ados route and fishermans basket to anchors of Tartar.

Start at crab stick then move right at 2nd bolt and finish at fishermans basket anchors.

Up slopes to undercling, then hard move to gain upper section of cave. Move left on slopey ledge to exciting sitting finish.Starts just after the first pinch gap on the low bolt. Back jump to clean.

Climb the first four bolts on fishermans basket through short roof then right to anchors.

Start at fishermans basket up to roof then traverse under roof left to right. One of the easier routes of the cliff.

The line moving slightly right with big move to bird poo slopey ledge.

Easily up wall to tough move below roof.

Start as you would for 'Pinchy the Lobster' first 3 bolts then head right on the last 2 carrots of 'Second Cave Carrots'

Follow (6) carrots through slopey goodness

Slopey underclinging. Same start as 'Lobster' for the first 2 bolts then trend left onto 3 bolts to finish at 'Second Cave Carrots' anchors.

Original line bolted ground up, easier line moving slightly right to lower off under roof.

Up 'Lobster', Diagonally right then through roof flake to lower off.

Out roast lobster roof then continue to top out!

Traverse the entire wall at roof level right to left starting next to block at right end of cave.

An epic line that follows The Red into Roast Lobster Mornay all the way to the top of the cave.

Start on the face left of the block. Out roof then traverse left to anchors on Roast Lobster.

First climb outside of the cave on the right side. Long way to the first bolt, probably best to stick-clip

Start ontop of block at right end of cave, out past 4 bolts the hard move out right over lip to lower off at top.

Second climb out from the cave on the right side. 3 bolts to double rings at the top

At the R end of the slabs above the beach known as Little Lobster, 150m N of Lobster Beach. Was a little slick on the FFTRA! Approx 30-50m N of the more recently established Lobster Cave routes.

Start right hand on lowest hold of the arete. Left hand on the block crimp. Make your way up squeezing the aretes and mantle out the top

Start on the left arete. Left Hand on rail, right hand on side pull and climb the left face. Boulder behind is not in.

Start on buldging sidepull and climb directly up the slab. Other boulder is not in.

Start matched on the side pulls. Move through underclings and a sloper trending left towards the jug and top out.

Start from the same start holds as Analysis Paralysis, Instead of heading out left go straight up the direct. Cross left hand to a crimp just before the lip, move right to a sloper and head straight up through a tricky mantle.

Starting a few metres to the right of Analysis Paralysis. Sit start with hands on the lowest holds (A left hand rail and right hand crimp) Bust up to a block side pull and a slopey right hand crimp and make your way up and right to mantle and slab top out The 'stand start' from the block side pull and slopey crimp, probably goes at about 6

The best of hard routes on this bloc. On the backside of the First World Problems Boulder. Sit start on obvious jug and make your way directly up via a micro edge and some tricky heel hooking. Unsure on the grade.

Starting in the large pocket make your way straight up via a left hand crimp and undercling. Traverse left a few moves and mantle out.

Start matched in the huge pocket to the right of Which Choice. Move up and right, using the crimps and a left toe hook to grab the jug and mantle to finish (mantle straight up for a challenge, otherwise out right is easier).

Start matched on the low left sidepull then continue out right an up to top out.

Start R on positive side pull edge and L on thin flake. Straight up to the slopey ramp near the ferns and top out. Does not share any holds with Continuous Motion.

5m left of Continuous Motion. Sitstart on jug flake and hole.

(more or less) Sit start at bottom right hand end, feet on the ledge inside the cave. Traverse left on pockets then straight up off crimp to easy top out.

Start as per TB, but from low point continue up and left before topping out. Finishes 1.5m further left than TB.

Start as per TB and CM, but traverse further left again before heading up. Harder top out 1m left of CM.

Start as for previous problems, but traverse all the way along the middle break of the boulder, topping out at the very end. Will be a classic when it cleans up.

Sit start at the base of the prow on the left hand side. Use edges and slopers to the gain the jug then mantle the prow. Just as good mantling the left hand side as right over the point.

Arete left of the bottom cave entrance. Needs a good clean.

Right hand side of wall. Hard SS possible.

Left hand side of wall – hard start to easy finish. Awkward landing on sloping ramp.

The slabby but high wall around to the left.

Intense traverse across wall from L to R, finishing up Larks Tongue.

Makes a good problem into a classic. Sit start the crack right of the arête, throw up to the slopey break and then across left to the arête. Blast up.

The steep left hand arête. Start lowish on the slopey break and sidpull around the corner.

Prance up the arête to tricky topout.

Stand (jump?) start 2 m left of right arête, from large(ish) sidepull. 2 big moves to the top. Was going to be Lofty's pride and joy until he ripped of a good gaston hold on the first move. Sit start to come?

Start on right hand side of wall, staying off the arête. Straight up off progressively larger holds.

Sit start the arête and follow the left diagonal line.

Small roof/arête on the next wall left of the chimney. Slopey top out.

Stand start on two edges, Move up right hand to a slimpy edge and pop to a left hand slotted edge. move up to the lip and mantle out.

Sit start matched on poor side pull moving up left then pouncing up to incut crimps that start 'Angry Ant Farm'

The right side of the top arête. Not exactly 'Frankenstein' at the Fear Factory.

Sit start on low pockets in middle of wall. Straight up past flat slopers and slopey hole to high and committing topout up the slab. Pretty bloody good.

JPs own personal battle. Hard sit start at right arête, up to big sloping bulge and finish up slab.

Start in same area as for AFTC, but head up diagonally right past 2 slots to join BOTB at the big knob. Quite a few different ways to do this, with underclings, slopes etc. 'Almost' done…

Straight up red/black streak on small holds to cave, traverse off.

2m right of RB, potential finish through roof.

Sit start on left hand side of cave. Head out and right along lip. Finish up juggy face and enjoy the view from the top. Good. Start at the rail deep in the cave to add an extra move.

Sit start in cave under right arête. Straight up and right via small flake and shallow pocket that used to have teeth.

Sit start in right hand side of cave, up to diagonal break and finish up 'Courthouse'.

Start around RHS of arete on large hold, and move left through large dish to arete and up.

Traverse R to L across narrow red streak, starting on flat hold and finishing on a big jug. The chockstone is in for the feet.

Sit start slightly left of 'Jailhouse' on diagonal break, staying low traverse left around arete and exit up on face.

Sit start as per PP, but rock up left into corner and straight up through roof. Looks easy…

Sit start on the nose left of the little overhang

Match start on flat wall at back of cave facing water side, moving out on large pocket jugs on right wall before reaching back into the crimp rail and moving out and mantling the lip.

The far side of the far boulder. Sit start and up the excellent high and steep wall. Take a

brush, will be a classic when clean.

2 m right of TFS, up past the big loose looking flake to top.

Sit start left of the mini roof and follow the line of horizontal edges.

Small overhang to the right – variants possible.

The overhanging arête with a small cave below, on the 'Psycho Ant Wall' (Wagstaffe) side or the Top Boulder.

See Psycho Ant Wall section for topo of this climb.

Start in dish pocket in cave, and slap out left a bit then up the high arête – bad landing!

Traverse the obvious ledge rightwards and out through the roof to a long move to gain the ledge where it runs out towards the lip of the cave. Finish matched on the sloping ledge just around the corner.

Start: Sit start at the far left of cave on farthest jug.

Start as top shelf and climb into broken boy soldier

Traverse the back wall as for 'Universal solider' but instead of taking the hard exit up and around the head wall continue out below the lip to do the easier finish of one of the V4's. Super Pumper

Start: As for Top shelf

From the starting crimps, climb directly backwards. L/H to gaston, R/H to poor undercling, match, then a weird move gains the 'interloper' pocket on the inside of the lip. Finish up 'Interloper'. The entire top shelf ledge is off limits. A shoulder destroyer! I know

Start: Sit start in about the center of the right hand cave on two fairly incut crimps.

Slap the big sloper then punch directly back out and around the lip to a bad pocket then back rightish via various bad crimps and edges to finish at the break above. The big slot to the left is off for hands. Classic hardy

Start: Sit start below sloper under lip

Slap up to the big sloper, then climb out around the lip heading leftward to gain the good slot out on the face. Punch directly up from here to finish on the slopey ledge as for 'Top Shelf'. The holds underneath the lip as used for 'Interloper' are off.

Start: Sit start below the big sloper under the lip.

A funky problem that climbs the inside lip of the cave. From the sloper make your way through pockets under the lip to gain the good jug on the prow below the finish of 'Top Shelf' Punch a big move for the ledge to finish as for that problem. Rad

Start: As for 4 & 5

From a sit start move up the face via some side pulls to finish at the high break. Traverse off right or jump off

Start: Sit start just outside the cave on the right hand face near the block on the ground.

'Dans Newy'

Link Firing squad into broken boy solider exit. Once in double underclings of firing squad, make a hard move right to join the sloper rail of broken boy soldier and finish as per this problem. The whole Top Shelf (v3) ledge is off as are the Interloper (V4) slots/jugs under the roof.

Start: Sit as for Firing Squad.

Starting on the top break at the end of Broken Soldier Boy, follow the fine line of solid holds through the sea of choss topping out the boulder walking off left before the mini overhang.

WARNING. Be very carefully especially higher up where a lot of the solid looking holds are quite loose and will break off quite easily

Link the start of 'Top Shelf' into 'Bullet and a Target' into and topping out with 'High Calibre'.

Start matched on undercling on the far right of cave moving up and right to finish matched at the obvious break.

Start as for the low ledge on the face then climb straight up. The arete is out.

Left hand end of wall. Up, right and up avoiding the crack and block, finish as TOE.

Left hand end of block, straight up.

1m right. Start on block , straight up to big hold and up crack to tricky mantle.

Start as M to big jug, but traverse right along thin ledge to jugs and mantle up on flat holds.

Start at the left red rounded sidepull, straight up via a nice little throw to join M finish.

Sit start arête right of high crack. Up and onto right face. Might need a clean!

Tall crack. Needs a good clean.

Start at left end of block and traverse right to high crack, or keep going around the corner. Will be hard near the end.

Right again. Start from right rounded sidepull. Straight up, maybe right a bit. Finish will need a clean. JP done except topout.

Traverse the low lip from L to R all the way around the corner, then mantle up.

The most obvious line up the middle of the wall. Stand start on an incut rail. Following the series of edges up to the big pocket feature high up before topping out further right.

The right end of the wall. Sit start on a low rail with back wall out for feet. Bust out to small left hand edge and make your way up to the jug. Drop off, has the opportunity to top out.

Stack your fist and hand and stick your stinger in the crack. Stay off left hand slab and ledge (too easy). Protect with large cams

Stretch your wings and stick those delicate feet

Finger crack

Use all your feet to slither up the slab

Start as for Burranburran and head in concave curve up through flake towards pointed boulder

Hand crack straight to the point

Skitter up crack and around bulge. Hand to fist size

Watch where you put your feet. Slab practice - holds optional

FFTRA Will Monks Dec 96

FFTRA Peter Monks, Will Monks Dec 96. The crack starting out the roof at the L end of the orange wall 200m above the southern end of Lobster Beach.

20m R of 15+. Short corner on R side of pedestal then short tricky face crack.

Start on the sloper undercling and move out and mantle.

Sit start on the ledge under the overhang, big move to the lip, follow the edges and mantle to stand.

Start as for Langostino, traverse right, then up to lip and awkward mantle. Jump off.

Double jug start to sloper jug to the right and via edges to finish under grey rooflet. Jump off.

Lie down start on the two low pockets, move slightly left through some edges, reach the lip via crescent shaped sloper and mantle to finish.

Lie down start on jugs under the arete at the end of the wall. Traverse left to the sloper shelf and up via right pinch and a knee bar to jugs under mini roof and topout. Shares start holds with Mini Lobster, but traverses left at start.

Start as for Roast Mountain Lobster. Straight up along arete via knob and slopers to easy mantle.

Lie down start matched on the knobby structure in the middle of the sector. Right heel hook to start and continue straight up to a high top out on jugs. First move hardest move.

Sit start under blackened finish jug of Cave Coaster. Traverse left to under a rooflet to a jug on the side of big hole, then further left to a lie down mantle.

Sit start at right end of orange section in second cave. Heel hooks to traverse left and finish on big blackened jug structure under the roof.

Start on decent left side pull on the left face and right hand on arete, straight up to edge with a fun mantle.

Start on pockets of the arete, move right through a fun pocket pull to the flat lip and mantle. Ledge is in for feet.

Sit start on grey jug rail under arete.

Start on lowest holds and climb up to break before traversing left to arete and heading straight up to topout. Holds on the face are also in.

Start as for "The Best Man" but instead head out right and top out. The arete is out.

The right blunt arete on the wall exiting right of tree branch

Start on lowest edge and climb straight up to top out. First few moves are the hardest.

Start behind trees on lowest ledge and make your way up slightly left then up to top out. Crux is 2/3 of the way up. Crack is not in.

Start as for "Crunchie" and then head diagonally left before traversing down the good ledge and then climbing up the crack to top out.

Same as "Toblerone" but instead of climbing up and out at first crack head diagonally up to the top ledge and traverse to the second crack before topping out.

Start as for "Crunchie" and then climb diagonally up and to your left until you reach the crack, then top out.

Start matched on lowest ledge and climb straight up to top out. Lots of high feet.

Start on the low left pockets and climb up and right to topout

Start as for Dirty Bean Water and follow arete up using the jug around the corner.

Traverse left across undercut wall from level with the dumpling boulder to the arete at tree then up to top out

SS at undercut and straight up face without using aretes

Start matched on crimpy edge on right side of boulder. Make your way across the face and then around the corner to topout/finish.

Sit start under left arete using lowest two holds. Wrestle your way directly up, staying on the arete

Start matched on ledge in cave and then traverse around the tip of the boulder using any holds. Swing across to wall on right side of boulder and then finish with top out to the right.

Start on right side of cave and traverse the thin seam up to jug on corner and top out as for “Original”. All holds are in for your feet.

Start as for cool ranch but instead of continuing to traverse right, finish by topping out earlier (far left of right hand side of boulder)

Start as for “Cool Ranch” but instead of traversing jugs use 4 slopey pockets closest to the bottom edge of the left side of the bloc. Gain flat edge low on right hand side of peak and fire up to highest edge and top out as for “Original”. All holds are in for your feet.

Start as for “Cool Ranch” but instead of traversing jugs use two large high pockets and the slopey corner to then top out as for “Original”

Start on ledge in cave and dyno to flat edge on right side and small slopey pocket furthest along left side. Top out as for "Original"

SS at crack in middle of overhang and using small pockets reach to right of prow, then traverse left to top out left of prow.

On crimps with good feet. Reachy.

Straight up through the mono pocket. Bit easier than Heady.

Easy to the ledge, then a nice lock-off move to top out.

Up the crack.

Stand start on some crimpers, one move to top.

From the jug through two pockets to topout left

Sitstart

The most obvious line in the cave. Sit start at the base with a left hand on the jug and right hand down low on the sloper. Move directly out the roof and top out.

Start as for "Lethal Weapon" and climb up until the dish before the undercling. Now keep tension and make a move out to the upper part of the jug rail (lower third of the jug rail is out) and finish as per "Mel Gibson Memorial". A bit contrived but fun!

Lethal Weapon but with the Mel Gibson Memorial top out up left. Jug rail is out.