Northern Rivers Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Northern Rivers 409 routes in Region

3 13 2 11 1 10 6 8 7 9 4 12 14 15 16 17

1 Urbenville 2 Mt. Warning Wollumbin Shield 3 Tweed Valley 4 Old Lismore Quarry 6 Lillian Rock 7 Island Quarry 8 Byron Lowtide Boulders 9 Cape Byron Light house Cliff 10 Rainbow Rock 11 Zen 12 Boonoo Boonoo Falls 13 Surf Rock 14 Lighthouse beach 15 Joggly point cave 16 Turners beach 17 Woodford Island

Summary:

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Saison

Escalade sportive, Bloc et autres styles

Lat / Long: -28.993470, 152.673559

description

The Northern Rivers region of Northern NSW

Limitations de l'accès

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

hérité de New South Wales and ACT

1.1. Urbenville 152 routes in Crag

2 3 4 1 5

1 Battery Hill 2 The Crown 3 Spot X 4 Crossroads 5 Vesuvius

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -28.507652, 152.531220

résumé

An area providing a number of different crags, each with their own unique style, from steep thuggery to delicate friction slab.

description

Sleepy Urbenville, best known for a place to ride dirtbikes could be transforming into the Catalunya of Queensland. And even though it's not in Queensland, we've adopted it.

Limitations de l'accès

You no longer need to contact the landowner for The Crown, Spot X etc. This was confirmed after a discussion with the general store owners, that the land has changed hands.

Make sure you close the gate on your way up to the treatment plant. There are cattle roaming the field.

approche

Urbenville is in NSW, 150 km south of Brisbane via Beaudesert. Turn R to Rathdowney at the traffic lights in Beaudesert. Through Rathdowney and past spectacular mountain scenery. 'Campbell's Folly', the cliffline just past Palen Creek is particularly awesome-looking, although it resides on private property and is largely chossy. Drive on past Mt Lindsay and into NSW. At Woodenbong, turn L to Tabulam on McPherson Street. It is about 13 km to Urbenville.

où dormir

Option 1: There is a basic campground at the northern entrance to Urbenville set amongst huge pine trees. The camp hosts are Tony/Kelly Jo who volunteer to maintain the site run by Forestry. The cost is $10/night with warm showers. You can reach Tony on (02) 6634 1424 and pick up shower keys at the local store. It is recommended you bring your own water.

Option 2: May 2023 - Toolum Falls Campground is Closed If you plan to climb at Battery Hill or Vesuvius, there is a campsite south of Urbenville, where it's an easy walk to The Pines. It's called Tooloom Falls Camp Grounds (see Google Maps or directions under Battery Hill section).

Option 3: It's possible to get a room in the Urbenville pub for about $30 a night.

1.1.1. Battery Hill 36 routes in Cliff

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -28.521172, 152.520341

description

The rock is igneous trachyte with sharp edges and pockets. There may still be some dodgy rock, so climb with care. The climbing is generally at less than vertical with steeper sections and bulges for interest. Most climbs have a section of small crystals and crimps to test your faith in sticky rubber. The friction quality is good, except in the lichen areas when damp.

A few pieces of natural protection, some (9) quickdraws and bolt plates are all that is required.

Routes are listed right to left. There are several great learner leads to build confidence and skill. The protection is usually well placed and more than adequate, although bolts are painted to camouflage with the stone so look closely to find where you're going. The first one is usually at about 4m and then about 3m apart.

There are two climbing faces separated by about 100m. All climbs from 'Flat and Useless' are on the second face.

Have fun!

The overall topo Has been made as a starting point, is very approximate and has been made without observing all of the routes. Please update it if you know exactly where the routes are. Thanks!

approche

Dec 2013 update: (campsite closed as of 2023, bridge still out) The campsite at Tooloom Falls is the starting point for those wanting to walk to the cliff. The bridge crossing the stream from the Pines campsite has been washed out. It is impassable by car. To walk, cross the waterfall (if possible and water is not too high) and then turn right onto Beehive Rd and follow this for 1.5km, turn left onto Wood Duck "Rd" and follow this for 500m up to the base of the cliff.

Don’t try follow your GPS to “battery hill climbing area”. Google maps thinks there’s many roads that don’t exist. Use the directions below:

From Urbenville, take Clarence Way out of town in the direction Tabulam. Drive for 1.5 km and turn right onto Connells Rd and follow this for a 5.8 kms until a right turn. onto Goongree connection Rd. At the next intersection take another right turn and follow the W sign (waterfall). This will lead you past the waterfall and onto Beehive Rd, follow this for 1.5km and then turn left onto Wood Duck Rd. This leads you to the base of the cliff. The forestry roads are unsealed but you can get in without a 4WD.

1.1.2. The Crown 45 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -28.474885, 152.528807

description

The unmissable volcanic plug visible from the centre of Urbenville, also known as 'North Obelisk'. It's north-facing slabs offer balancy slabbing on very featureless rock, in contrast to the more blocky structure of The Pines. For Queensland climbers, reminiscent of older style slab routes of Mt Beerwah. More recently, dark arts have been practiced on its shady southern side (see Spot X).

Useful Info: Most of the more trafficked climbs were rebolted by Safer Cliffs Queensland in mid-2008 with stainless fixed hangers and expansion bolts. The hardware on many of the remaining routes consists mostly of bash-in mild steel or sometimes stainless bolts in varying states of decay. Exercise caution and discretion.

Many routes require some trad gear and bolt plates, so be prepared. The classics of the crag would have to be Slip 23m (19) and the three pitch continuation starting at the end of Slip known as 'Fantastic' 75m (19).

The black trachyte and NNE position means that The Crown is best climbed autumn through spring, some respite in summer may be available on those climbs under the treeline but don't count on it.

© (hotgemini)

approche

Head south from the centre of Urbenville, turn right into Stephen Street and follow it for 900 metres then turn left into the sewerage treatment plant. Park in the shade of the gum trees immediately downhill of the aeration ponds.

Walk uphill between the aeration ponds and the sedimentation ponds and continue upwards between the two obvious native 'apple' trees. Continue straight up into the trees and cross a farm track. From here you should be able to follow the faint cairned path until it takes you up to steeper ground before traversing right around a gully to the cliff face proper. Walk right along the rock to reach the first routes. In order to minimise erosion please stay on the path and do not short-cut across switchbacks. It takes 20-30 minutes to get to the crag.

© (hotgemini)

historique

Development chiefly occurred in the early to mid 90s when slabs were all the rage.

© (hotgemini)

1.1.3. Spot X 27 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -28.475824, 152.528422

description

Tucked away from prying eyes is the true 'jewel in the Crown', Spot X. This cliff has provided the canvas for a host of modern sport routes. Most sport climbers will find something to their liking here. There's still a fair bit of loose rock so helmets are essential.

approche

Park at the treatment plant as for The Crown. Contour right around The Crown to access. 30 minutes. Access is through private property & it is still customary to phone ahead & alert the farmer of your intentions. You can stop in at the general store in town as Peter (the farmer) owns it & the staff can call him & let him know if need be.

Update Feb 2021 - from the sewage station head right trending uphill crossing 2 gullies (both gullies have obvious crossing points) until you hit the barbed wire fence. The old fallen tree we used to cross the fence with is now a burnt pile of ash but just downhill from the old log there is a gate in the fence (it does open & be sure to close behind you). To avoid walking through tall grass up to the fire trail, after going through the gate follow fenceline uphill for 20 or so metres then turn right (at the old log ash pile) to find a track that leads to an overgrown fire road that becomes a fully fledged fire road. Follow this for 5mins-ish until it starts to go back down onto the farm property & the road disappears, there will be a sharp left hand turn where you access a new obvious fire road. Once you gain this you will see a 2-3m boulder on the right & the track towards the cliff will appear on your left shortly after marked with a cairn. Follow this to the cliff.

historique

First explored by Cujes and others in the late 90s, the wall was written off as too futuristic. Upon re-inspection in mid 2013, a furious 12 months of activity commenced and by the time the dust and blocks had settled, there were more than 20 pitches with difficulty up to grade 31.

1.1.4. Crossroads 26 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -28.478521, 152.528576

description

The “other wall” at Spot X offering chossloads of Adventure sport climbing (capital 'A' intended). This big bad wall is an acquired taste for the discerning choss-jockey, but those few who get the taste get hooked. 20 quickdraws, long slings and an 80m rope are mandatory, or if you are using a shorter rope, you’ll need to lower-off in two parts. Nothing here is easy, and if you only want to climb on 100% solid rock, best not come. Tie a stopper knot, wear a helmet. Season is April - September.

approche

Accessed via 10 minute walk from Spot X. Head uphill from the main wall at Spot X until you find a sign attached to a tree saying "Crossroads". Turn right & follow the mostly flat trail to the cliff.

historique

With most routes requiring about 20 bolts and tons of cleaning, development was tough work. Most routes have only had a couple of ascents. Climbing here takes mental acclimatisation.

1.1.5. Vesuvius 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -28.540624, 152.505139

description

A south-facing wall (shade in summer) with a jungle feel.

approche

It is very easy to get lost on this approach and there is no phone reception for most of the hike. It is highly recommended to download the following track to follow before you get there.

https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/hike-out-of-vesuvius-rock-climbing-area-urbenville-140219433

Note: On the drive you will encounter two gates. Please always ‘leave it as you found it’.

From Urbenville, head east on Clarence Way and then turn right onto Connell’s Rd (dirt road). Follow this until taking a sharp right onto Gooroobee Rd. This quickly becomes Beehive Rd as you pass the Tooloom Falls campground on your right. Follow Beehive Rd, keep right at the junction with Keithdale Rd. Stay on Beehive Rd, it will soon become less visible as the grass is covering it. You will cross a ditch (*do not attempt in a low vehicle, park here if so) follow beehive rd for a short distance more, then turn left onto Sugarloaf boundary rd. Follow the fence to the corner, turn left again still following the fence line, and park in the grass just on the edge of the road before it dips down at a bit of a clearing.

Pass through the barbed wire on the RHS of the rd, head due south along the grassy flats. (Grass is very long at the moment and it is hard to pick up the cattle track initially.) this will soon become a fire trail, follow this for approx 5 minutes. Stay near the left edge of the fire trail as you walk, you will notice a dry creek bed below on the left. After going up a hill, you will find a large hole on the left caused by erosion. This is where you head left toward the mountain and cross a small log bridge over the dry creek bed. Head up the other side, you will pick up the remains of an old bike track. Turn left onto the track at the big stump and follow the track around. (This track has become quite overgrown, there are fallen trees etc and it is hard to find at times.) the track will be taking you gradually uphill and closer to the mountain as you go. You will find an obvious rock cairn on your left, where the forest is quite damp and mossy. Head uphill, stepping over a large fallen tree, up some rocks, following 1-2 smaller cairns. Then just weave your way up the slippery slope toward the cliff face- once you hit the cliff line, head right until arriving at ‘The Black Wall’. Well done! You found it.

historique

Discovered by Cujes and Smits in the heat of 2013/14 summer. Being south facing, it offered some respite, and about 20 pitches were established in the next handful of months.

1.2. Mt. Warning Wollumbin Shield 13 routes in Crag

1

1 North West Face (Main Wall)

Summary:

Style inconnu, Escalade traditionnelle et Escalade artificielle

Lat / Long: -28.402196, 153.263911

description

Mount Warning is a mountain in the Tweed Range in the Northern Rivers Region of NSW. It is very close to the border between NSW and Queensland. It stands at 1159 metres above sea level.

Limitations de l'accès

It is located in Wollumbin National Park.

approche

Mount Warning is accessible by the Summit Track hiking trail, which leads up the mountain to the summit.

1.2.1. North West Face (Main Wall) 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Escalade traditionnelle, Escalade artificielle et Style inconnu

Lat / Long: -28.396624, 153.259114

description

This massive 400m high slab is possibly the largest cliff in Australia, at least on the mainland.

approche

Epic 3+ hour jungle bush bash. Ask Phil Box for details (0418716774) Approach can be accomplished from either the tourist carpark to the east of the main summit and by then walking up the tourist track, branch off the tourist at the dog leg just before the chains that lead to top and from the dog leg head pretty much directly west then up and over the western peak and then head down obvious descent gully that descends towards the north at the far western end of the main Wollumbin Shield Wall. Getting there from Tyalgum Ridge is far more problematic, being guided in is virtually the only way from that direction unless you have very high quality navigational skills through extremely thick jungle and waiterwhile. Ring me.

informations pour la descente

Rapping back down the route you climb is the usual method of descent. There is also a large gully to the right (south-west) of the main cliff. Expect a jungle bash. The very ambitious can top-out on any of these routes and follow the 'summit ridge' east until reaching the summit cone, and descend down the tourist track.

1.2.2. Tourist car park (Strangler fig climbing) 6 routes in Area

Summary:

Tous Style inconnu

description

A carpark where trees known as Strangler Figs can be climbed.

Limitations de l'accès

Located in Wollumbin National Park.

1.3. Tweed Valley 1 route in Crag

Summary:

Tous Style inconnu

Lat / Long: -28.286091, 153.329274

1.3.1. Hattons Bluff 0 routes in Area

1.4. Old Lismore Quarry 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Style inconnu

Lat / Long: -28.793621, 153.262965

1.5. Angel Way 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

résumé

climbing is banned in these areas... keep climbing gear in your pack.

description

Rock is crumbly

Limitations de l'accès

access difficult.

1.5.1. Dragons Lair 12 routes in Sector

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

description

Wear a helmet, rock crumbles and blocks break off.

approche

Approximate 28°34'54"S 153°24'14"E

historique

sensitive location. please respect Keep all climbing gear in pack

1.6. Lillian Rock 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Psicobloc

Lat / Long: -28.530564, 153.150706

description

Lillian Rock is a 317 metre high mountain in the Northern Rivers region of Northeast New South Wales.

approche

Lillian Rock is accessible by car via Lillian Rock Road.

1.6.1. Hanging Rock Falls 2 routes in Area

Summary:

résumé

A neat little swimming hole surrounded on the upstream side by ~3-6m high vertical rock faces. All climbs are deep water (mostly) solos. Always check water depth prior to climbing/jumping.

approche

200m stroll down path from road.

éthique

As always, take your rubbish with you. Take care to not damage and flora when scrambling around the edge of the swimming hole.

1.7. Island Quarry 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Style inconnu et Moulinette

Lat / Long: -28.638788, 153.573690

résumé

This crag is located on private land. Climbing here is illegal now as it is a community arts and eco centre.

Limitations de l'accès

Climbing is banned here.

où dormir

Byron Bay

1.8. Byron Lowtide Boulders 16 routes in Area

11

11 Life bouy rocks

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -28.634132, 153.637871

résumé

Small bouldering area on the point just below the walkway. Main boulder catches spray at high tide. Low tide is best, somewhat obviously.

description

Access either by parking at the lighthouse and walking down, or by parking at Wategos beach and walking along the rocks

approche

Access either by parking at the lighthouse and walking down, or by parking at Wategos beach and walking along the rocks.

1.8.1. Life bouy rocks 6 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: -28.633631, 153.638158

1.9. Cape Byron Light house Cliff 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -28.642761, 153.636379

résumé

Cape Byron Lighthouse Cliffs. Sea level cliffs below the lighthouse.

description

First 3 Climbs are based around the first solid grey gully with a 25m head wall at the back. Solid rock and gear low down , but gets more unstable higher up. 70m further on is " The Day sap ". A solid grey 15m face with good natural features .

Limitations de l'accès

2 to 3 hours either side of high tide

approche

Park at Tallow beach carpark, walk north along the beach. And scramble around to the cliffs

où dormir

Byron

éthique

Trad. Warning the cliff is shale. some holds are just sitting on the face. Care is needed placing gear. Belayers should never stand directly below climbers. Helmets are essential.

historique

Explored and opened by Eric Milton 2023

1.10. Rainbow Rock 16 routes in Crag

Summary:

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -28.512089, 153.324141

résumé

Private Property

description

Helmet and brush needed at this crag. Holds appear and disappear often. Needs lots of cleaning. Lots of ticks, march flies, mosquitoes and leeches.

Limitations de l'accès

Across farmers land - must ask permission - private property.

approche

Call for details and directions... walk up hill. Very steep at the end. Hard to find.

éthique

Sensitive area. Private Property. Permission for climbing or bolting required.

historique

Called Rainbow Rock. First climbs established in 2000 by the owner of Wave Rock, Byron Bay (John Reilly)

1.11. Zen 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -28.451898, 152.668754

1.11.1. Azgard 15 routes in Sector

Summary:

description

AZGARD This is a sacred space and a prayer for the world, please treat it with respect...

Angel and Dragon, Guardians, protect this world, now and forever, guide us, to love ways, so be it.

Sacred is, moon child, mother earth, father sun.

Bless All, Life with Love, Everything is Sacred, and Divine.

approche

Approximate 28°35'20"S 153°24'20"E

informations pour la descente

please stay of projects

historique

Dragon eye anchor was placed under a full moon on the night 26/5/13 with intention of anchoring Light and Love into this world . It points South and East /West at the base. It was the first anchor glued at Azgard. It is not use to abseil, it is to connect with the other anchors with a sling when climbing climbs beneath. The Anchor is on a bolder.

1.12. Boonoo Boonoo Falls 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bloc et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: -28.800954, 152.163074

description

Pronounced Bunna Boonoo. Boonoo Boonoo Falls is a spectacular waterfall located in Boonoo Boonoo National Park near Tenterfield in the Northern Rivers Region of Northern NSW.

© (gremlin)

Limitations de l'accès

Located in Boonoo Boonoo National Park.

© (gremlin)

où dormir

Camping is available at Cypress-Pine Campground in Boonoo Boonoo National Park.

© (gremlin)

1.12.1. Above the Falls 0 routes in Area

description

Various routes and problems above the falls.

© (gremlin)

1.13. Surf Rock 29 routes in Crag

Summary:

Moulinette, Escalade traditionnelle et autres styles

Lat / Long: -28.336125, 153.577362

résumé

sea cliff, windy. Some loose rock, helmet is a good idea, Some very sharp rock!!! cut though my 11mm rope when top roping an overhang. Use rope protectors over all edges. Most rock is pretty average.

description

Mostly Trad climbing.Sea cliff climbing, beautiful location. good surf. A place to climb when on the north coast of NSW... Better than nothing... If you dont like the climbs... go Surfing...

approche

Cabarita Beach - Headland... NSW. follow trail out to headland, when on wooden boardwalk climb over fence and head to right side of headland. there are 2 decent gullys, first climbs are in first gully.

où dormir

Cabarita has lots of accomadation.

éthique

Using carrots to bolt, they are least noticeable. Headland is public location. Minimal impact to environment is required here.

historique

Found a bolted climb with a chain anchor... Most climbs are probably easier than graded. Grading is my best guess... feel free to adjust grades...

1.14. Lighthouse beach 93 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -28.867943, 153.592400

résumé

Sun surf sand and bouldering.

description

Small outcrop on the headland with around 80 problems on volcanic basalt rock that is on the most part quite compact. Right on the beach with some sandy landings near the surf club end (southern). The remainder is rocky landings, but a good spot and a crash pad will definitely help. Nice holiday bouldering good fun easy moves that in places get a touch high off the ground. Salt spray can sometimes make walking around base very slippery and is best avoided around times of large swells! Sand levels change often by as much as a metre.

approche

North end of lighthouse beach Ballina. Park at the beach or ontop of crag at lookout. Climb, surf and swim at the beach. Grab a coffee/breakfast at the club house.

historique

Seems like the kind of spot that would of attracted climbers at some point. Who knows the history? Just putting up whats been done by a few people over the past few years.

1.15. Joggly point cave 12 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -29.119628, 153.450609

description

A really cool cave with consistently hard moves throughout the route. So far there's only one route but potential for more. It's about 8 metres of cave climbing so either requires a lot of mats or a friend to help move some.

Holds might be prone to breaking especially at the end of the route although it's not a noticeable problem. The route can also be a little wet with water seeping into the cave so maybe bring a towel just in case.

approche

Go to Anson Ave and follow the track to Joggly Point. The cave is on the right of Joggly point by the sea.

Low tide is ideal but as long as it's not high tide you can probably get away with it.

1.16. Turners beach 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: -29.431723, 153.365101

description

Short wall next to the beach. Some problems can be done only by mid to low tide.

approche

Go to the end of harbour street. The boulder is on your left right next to the ocean

1.17. Woodford Island 23 routes in Area

2 1

1 See Sea Wall 2 Sandy Corner

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: -29.484392, 153.176082

résumé

Small area near M1 Motorway and not far from Yamba.

description

Short average sandstone with ocean views and shade in the afternoons, often gets a sea breeze. Mozzies can be bad here!

approche

From M1 highway turn off to Maclean. Cross the Bridge near showground and head towards Golf course. Drive past Golf club and turn left up Repeater Station rd, follow this until it turns from tar to dirt, park here (2WD) where mountain bike trails start and follow fire trail left from parking area down hill to power lines. More details on walk ins can be found by opening areas.

éthique

Please only leave sweat and chalk behind.

historique

A small top rope area was developed here in the late 90's called (Little Lindfield) to teach some kids climbing, it has carrots along the top. Later some short sport routes where also added in various areas.

1.17.1. See Sea Wall 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: -29.486478, 153.175730

résumé

Short sport, good for beginners.

approche

From parking area walk or drive (4x4) about 50m down fire trail to first power pole on a bend. Pole has the number 74089 on it. Turn right (east) and follow small walking track about 100m to top of cliff. Follow track south along top to access base of wall.

1.17.2. Sandy Corner 10 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: -29.483723, 153.177524

résumé

A top rope area and a few small sport caves, shady in the afternoon, mozzies can be bad especially near caves.

approche

From (2wd) parking area, follow fire trail down hill along power line for a few hundred metres. Track veers away from power line to a sandy bend near edge of small cliff (4x4) park here. Find path down between cliff here.

1.18. Life Bouy Strip 0 routes in Area

résumé

Tip of cape byron just up from low tide boulders