A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
- 1.
Cinderella Crag
24 in Crag
- 1.1. Top Deck 3 in Sector
- 1.2. Pitt Street Wall 11 in Sector
- 1.3. White Knight Wall 3 in Sector
- 1.4. Pumper Wall 4 in Sector
- 1.5. Sandy Cave 2 in Sector
- 1.6. Vertical Face 1 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Cinderella Crag 24 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Tous Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: -34.265714, 150.547712
résumé
A sport-climbing crag up steep white and orange sandstone. It is full of features and up to 40 metres in height. French translation of Cinderella is "of the ashes"
description
Crag gets morning sun, and shade after about 1pm. The base of the crag is a bit of a dustbowl - bring a large rope tarp. The crag also appears to heavily seep after extended rain.
Limitations de l'accès
None… Until they lock the fire road gate then expect a long walk or bike ride. Keep a low profile when drilling, there are some people lurking around the fire trails on the weekends. Well maintained fire trail access is fine with a 2WD with good clearance
approche
From Sydney, get on the M31 freeway and head south, take the Bargo exit. From here locate Avon Dam road and follow this for 3.5 km, cross the railway and turn left into Bargo River Rd and continue for a further 4.5km until your speedo reads 8km. I think the road changes its name somewhere along this section of road to Wilson Drive Reset your speedo here at house number 392. or - Type up "392 Wilson Dr, Balmoral NSW 2571" in Google Maps and reset your speedo here.
Turn left opposite the house and cross the rail
0.1km - Cross the railway
0.8km - Pass thru open gate and continue along dirt fire trail for 4.5km (just under 10min drive)
5.3km - Arrive at commuter car park
From here its an easy 2 min walk to the crag (follow the grey tape in the trees)
où dormir
Camping is possible at the top of the crag.
éthique
Ring bolted sport routes with lower offs
historique
Discovered by Mark Farrell 15 years ago. Simon Vaughan given a pass after much badgering.
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1.1. Top Deck 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -34.266350, 150.548014
description
A short, overhung wall of good rock above and left of the main wall - directly above Wee Bean & First Blood.
approche
On the walk in, you will find a fixed rope leading across an orange wall to the big ledge and DRB belay.
informations pour la descente
All routes have lower-offs.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Project - 3rd Dwarf
Équip.: Simon Vaughan, 2014 | 10m | ||||
| 2 |
★ Prince Charming
Middle route up a series of orange scoops and edges. Équip.: Simon Vaughan, 2013 FA: Simon Vaughan, 2014 | 22 | 10m | |||
| 3 |
Project - Pumpkin Pumper
Right most of 3 routes on the party ledge, past bulge on the prow and up to anchors of Django Unchained Équip.: Simon Vaughan, 2014 | 10m | ||||
1.2. Pitt Street Wall 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -34.266247, 150.547974
description
The main wall and the first reached when you get to the bottom of the cliff. Nice white and orange rock with a squillion ringbolts. The start of all routes are quite hard on very polished white rock.
approche
At the base of the descent gully.
informations pour la descente
All routes have lower-offs.
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Wee Bean
Up funky corner via steep moves. Sorta tricky for 19 when you don't know the moves. Équip.: Matt Tranter FFA: Matt Tranter, 2013 | 19 | 12m | |||||
| 2 |
★ Something different
Up prow Équip.: Matt Tranter FA: nathanual hebbard, 3 Avr 2021 | 24 | 12m, 7 | |||||
| 3 |
★ It’s all part of the fun
Équip.: Matt Tranter, 2013 FA: nathanual hebbard & jason green, 3 Avr 2021 | 25 | 12m, 7 | |||||
| 4 |
★ First Blood
Up white stuff to punchy crux, well actually tricky down low as well FFA: Simon Vaughan, 2013 | 21 | 15m | |||||
| 5 |
★★ Django
First large rock cairn. Up toughish start to a series of stepped overlaps. Anchors halfway up wall at large horizontal break. FFA: Simon Vaughan, 2013 | 20 | 15m, 5 | |||||
| 6 |
★★★ Unchained
Django extension to the top of the cliff on perfect orange stone. Straight up from the anchors on D, then move leftwards around the blunt arete to anchors under the roof. FA: Jason Lammers, 2013 | 23 | 25m | |||||
| 7 |
★★ Temple of Doom
Start on the second large rock cairn. Stick clip first bolt (if you are scared, useless or don't feel like an honest challenge) for bouldery start. Up for two bolts, clip high third bolt, then drop down and traverse hard right into Agent Orange for a couple of moves then back left to 4th bolt. Tricky move up to small ledge on the left - then up nice wall for a bolt then traverse left into mini corner feature to rap anchors. FFA: Simon Vaughan, 2013 | 22 | 18m, 8 | |||||
| 8 |
★ MontBundy Steel Fabrication Co.
The logical (and better?) finish to Temple of Doom straight up the longest section of orange rock. Climb TD for 7 bolts then head straight up trending slightly right rather than traversing off left. Finish through bulge to anchors on small ledge under large roof. FA: Neil Monteith & Veronica Trainor, 2014 | 22 | 25m, 10 | |||||
| 9 |
★★ 60 bolts in 60 minutes - Bundy Project
Start up AO and pop up over the break and veer up and left. Heave up over the final bulge to anchors up high under the final roof. Équip.: Jason Lammers, 2014 | 25m | ||||||
| 10 |
★★ Agent Orange
One of the best routes here. Starts on the third large rock cairn. The usual bouldery start then easier ground to white rooflet. Tricky over this then beautiful waves of orange to low set of anchors. Mantle above optional! FA: Simon Vaughan, 2014 | 23 | 25m | |||||
| 11 |
Wasp That Was
Bit of move at the 2nd bolt, then long cruise to the top of the cliff. Still needs a bit of TLC to get an extra star Équip.: Tom Farrell FA: Tom Farrell, 2014 | 25 | 30m | |||||
| ? | ||||||||
1.3. White Knight Wall 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -34.265902, 150.547568
description
The continuation of Pitt Street Wall to the right. This is mostly heavily vegetated but a couple of routes force there way through the greenery. White Knight is the only worthwhile route.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Mantle Mania
Vegetated, loose and with at least six mantles. Worst line of the crag. FA: Tom Farrell, 2014 Équip.: Mark Farrell, 2014 | 22 | 30m | |||
| 2 |
★★ White Knight
Rad moves on slick white stone to the crux which is guarded by a bulge where the orange rock starts. Équip.: Jason Lammers, 2014 FA: Jason Lammers, 2014 | 24 | 30m | |||
| 3 |
★★ PROJECT - Hillbilly Heaven
The perfect orange streak on a high ledge.
To get off lower both climbers back to the belay ledge and rap to the floor. * ran out of glue, so only half the bolts are glued * Équip.: Jason Lammers, 2013 | 40m, 2 | ||||
1.4. Pumper Wall 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -34.265614, 150.547454
description
45m of steep over hanging stone. 3 routes off the communal start at the moment and scope for a couple more routes off the balcony.
approche
The next wall past the vertical wall.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
The Ballroom project
Beautiful steep arete up to short black headwall up high Équip.: Simon Vaughan | 35m | ||||
| 2 |
★★ Octavius Jenga Project
Start up the communal rungs then follows the glass slipper for a couple of bolts before heading left.. Steep moves see you up a mini arete to where the route really picks up its heels. Place you 'hopes in slopes' with a big move from a small undercling. Équip.: Ben Jenga, 2014 | 28m, 16 | ||||
| 3 |
★★ The Glass Slipper
Start up left side of glamorous and daunting 45 metre steepness trending right to super high dramatic finish FA: Matt Brooks Équip.: Matt Brooks FFA: Matt Brooks, 2013 | 26 | 40m | |||
| 4 |
★★★ Daydreamin.
Fix a 60m rope, Rap from a tree at the top with the rock cain onto the balcony halfway down the wall. Make sure you keep kicking off the wall and clip a few draws to make it on the ledge. Tricky slab start then traverse left to steep jugs leading up to the fridge hugging crux. Awesome steep top corner finishes this route off with style. Équip.: Ben Jenga, 2014 FFA: Ben JengA & Katie, 2014 | 24 | 18m | |||
1.5. Sandy Cave 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -34.265417, 150.547462
description
Steep rock hard cave with fine white sandy bottom.
approche
A further two minutes walk along the base of the cliff past some great caves.
informations pour la descente
Lower offs.
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||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Tweedledum
Short, bolted boulder problem but the hold at the bottom and the cool rock made it impossible not to. Swing energetically from the pocket up to the white gold. Will it go through the roof, big guns? FA: Ryan Hanvey \ Matt Tranter, 2014 | 23 | 2 | |||||
| 2 |
Tweedledee
Project Ryan and Matt. 3D, mad. Fun Short. Haters will have lots to moan about on this one. Love it. | 8m, 4 | ||||||
1.6. Vertical Face 1 route in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -34.265211, 150.547471
description
Area of vertical faces left of the Sandy Cave.
approche
1 minute further along the cliff line
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ The Long Walk To Freedom.
Start on the cool ladder (unless you are right hard) Up the crack system to the face above. Reachy last move. FA: Matt Tranter, 2014 | 23 | 20m, 8 | |||
