Noeuds dans New Nowra - Braidwood Road

Wilderness sport climbing at crowd free crags.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Encompasses the tallest part of the cliff south of the waterfall/creek.

The completely overgrown scrubby corner left of the abseil route, the only evidence being a bolt and chain anchor at the top.

Start 10m right of the abseil route at the base of a crack corner behind a turpentine tree. Climbs the line to a bolt and chain anchor?lower off on the right under the roof.

Starts at a little corner crack 6m right of MTR2.

The unmistakable corner/crack feature 100m south of the waterfall/creek has been climbed before, first ascent details unknown. 1). Climb the steep slab past 6 bolts to a double bolt belay at the base of the corner crack. 2). Climb the corner crack to top or lower off option.

A classic line that has been climbed before but no details have been found to date. The second of two major ramps about 80m right of M&A. (1) Starts at a seep and is worth tangling with to gain this classic line, up past 3 bolts and traverse to the corner, climbing the slab past another bolt and past relic to double bolt belay. (2) Continue up the corner to chain anchor (Two abseils from here) or on to the top and double bolt belay.

A single steep orange wall once visited by mysterious bolters who gridded the top with U anchors as well as sparsley placed them down some of the climbs. Some of the anchors were lacking glue but most of them are fine. The bolts over the top should be ignored as there are now double rings on the tops of most climbs.

The awesome looking main orange wall starting just right of the descent gully (when facing the cliff).

Great climbing with a low down crux and good rock. May the force be with you.

Start: When you walk out of the bottom of the access slot this is the first route on the main wall.

The first of the mystery routes on spectacular orange bulgy rock. (Very) annoyingly appears to be a rap-in to hanging belay and climb out route. Not sure if this has actually been climbed, or even attempted. Maybe 26ish??

Amazing central orange streak that looks like one of the most impressive routes at Nowra (seriously). Crazily, this may never have actually been done. Why doesn't anybody want to go and climb it give it a grade and some closure in its life?

When the Alien's bolted this baby they wanted you to find some balls, squeeze them together and go for it. Maybe these Aliens were British trad dudes? Start right of Aliens Route Two under large hole in rock and slabby pre-wall.

Pumper route with nails hard start and a crux way up the top. There is an easier alternative and this is to pike at the two closely spaced bolts just before the last crux its hard 23 to this point. You will see the bolts they are pretty obvious lower off anchors disguised as runners.

Start: Up on the ledge about three meters right of Alien's Route Three. In vague corner.

Great climb, though you will need to read the rock to get through sections without having to bust your arse cranking some hard stuff.

Start: Under easy blocky arrangement that access the left side of the ledge that runs across the middle of the cliff.

This route shares the start off the ledge with two others and follows the left line of bolts.

Start: Shares same start as 'Trilobutt' to the ledge.

Top break to break climbing. Not completely bolted by the Aliens who were scared off before they could glue the bolts into the rock. Now sports more rings than a poofters camp.

Start: As for the Bum-eyed Bumosaur though this route is the direct line.

Great climbing up a really nice orange streak of hard rock.

Start: Third route in the off the ledge trilogy. This is the right hand one.

Great climbing break to break. Which translates to OK if you have the reach but can be a little technical if you bum drags close to the ground.

Start: At the right hand side of the ledge are various lines of bolts that you can follow to get to the ledge. Choose one that will limit the rope drag as this climb goes up the left side of the crack.

This route goes up right of the crack for pure fun!!?

Start: At one of the lines of bolts that will get you to the ledge.

This route was established by the Alien Visitation Crew who stuck bolts in over the top and screwed it up for a lower off. They also had British steel balls and ran it out between bolts so i fixed all that rubbish.

Start: In the corner at the right hand side of the ledge. Same place as the previous two routes.

Another route established by the AVC with no top anchors except the ones way over the top past the crud. Great bit of rock when you get onto it. Top anchors added later for your convienience.

Start: On slab to the right of 'Muscle Thruster'.

Currently only a couple of routes inside the descent gully and on the wall to the left side of the bottom of the descent gully (when facing the cliff).

The first route you pass as you scramble down the access slot. It's on the right wall. Cool in summer though a little sandy. Will clean up with a thousand ascents. Just look at 'Gun Barrel Highway' now!

This is the bottom route inside the access slot. Early bridging avoids the bouldery start. The climb gets a little sandy but is generally cool and ok.

Bolted by the RAT in his come back days but proved a bit too stiff. Start at the crack as for 'Plasto Bambola'. Go right? Graded 25 on the ACA guide. Who knows if it's even been done?

Start at crack to the right as you come out from the descent gully. Steep on generally sound rock and big jugs with a tricky headwall to finish. Up the crack until you can follow the line of bolts left then up the edge of the rotting crap on good holds, they really are solid believe me! Snake a little right at the top for the stiff head wall.

Nice orange wall and scoops 50m left of Plasto. The top half appears to be bolted, but they forgot to do the bottom bit.

The Lair is a sandstone cliffline up to 20m in height. It faces west so is good on a winters afternoon or early on a summer morning. The sun hits some of the faces from 10am in winter and you can find summer shade until 1pm. Protected from wind also. It has a variety of generally well protected easy to mid grade climbs. Established as a sport climbing crag with glue-in stainless steel ringbolts and double ringbolt lower-offs.

Useful Info: -34.9564211,150.4829561

The climbs are described from left to right as you are facing the cliff. 'Access' track is very uneven, but the way is clear as of the 2019 fire.

Bring insect repellant, as there can be some mozzies around.

It is an excellent area for beginners and kids as it is generally child-friendly and has many bolted easy to moderate routes.

Distinct black wall.

The easy angled black slab. Take care of rock in upper section. 7 RB's to DBB.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Steep start on good rock. Left around outside of cave and up. CAUTION: Take care clipping second bolt. 4RB's to DBB at present. (Not as shown).

Take care on thin edges. Abseil off to avoid rope wear. 6 RB's to DBB.

Start on the block 2m R of TEIN. Nice delicate moves up slab. Abseil off to avoid rope wear. Watch thin edges. 6 RB's to DBB.

Start 1m R of tree. Take care on thin edges. Past overlap then complete a short airy traverse to pull up between blocks. Named after the 'Nowra' poker machine that funded it. 6 RB's to DBB.

Work your way up the slab staying right of the corner. Increasing difficulty. 4 RB's to DBB.

Up the right hand side of the slab. Good moves in second half. 4 RB's to DBB.

The imposing overhanging cornice that greets you as you ascend the access route. Situated between the Sundeck and Berlin Wall.

...Birthday Long Weekend. A trad adventure that starts on a couple of really nice pockets caused by some quartz pebbles on the conglomerate slab. Up the slab before winding around the Right Hand arete of the Cornice and up to the highest point through a series of ledges. Moves probably only top out at 13 however all the gear is found in the horizontal breaks that wrap around the arete. There are some less than ideal and technical placements required to properly protect the climb so the grade is been upped a little accordingly. Despite its grade this shouldn't be considered a good option for an introduction to trad climbing.

Generally slabby face climbing.

Middle of slab in descent gully. 3RB's to DBB.

Right hand end of slab in descent gully.

Pleasant slab moves. 5 RB's to DBB.

The flake then straight up the slab to the edge of the cave. Good slab sections. 6 RB's to DBB.

More info needed

More info needed

Direct start to BTD. Start up the flake and bulge to join BTD at mid height. 7 RB's to DBB.

The original and the best of the three. Up the corner then L onto the slab. Use the edge of the cave then up over a short section of hollow sounding orange rock (the drum). 7 RB's to DBB.

Mid height variation to BTD. Start up BTD. Move R on slab then rejoin BTD to finish. 7 RB's to DBB.

5 RB's to DBB.

Generally good steep rock. Best quality routes at crag.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

1m left of 'Origami'. Pockets to start then thin moves through to finishing jugs. 6 RBs to DBB.

Up widening crack on trad. Gritty.

Steep arete at L end of grandstand. Problem solver. Reachy crux.

Grampians-esque boulder problem start to cheecky possum, maybe v6/7

Start as for Origami then traverse right and up through sustained moves. Great excursion on good rock. 7 RBs to DBB.

Steep start on big pockets. Good moves on good rock. 5RBs to DBB.

Sustained and excellent. Varied climbing on good rock. 6 RBs to DBB.

6 RBs to DBB. Route name changed at request of first ascentionist,

5 RBs to DBB.

6 RBs to DBB.

Start as TNOTU then diagonally right. 6RBs to DBB.

Batman start. 5 RBs to DBB.

Up the arete. 4RBs to DBB.

Smaller broken cliffline.

Left of 'The Dish'. Start in the corner next to the tree. Hard start.

4 RBs to DBB

Start up the crack then step left and up the face.

5 RB's to DBB.

Up middle of slab.

3 RB's to DBB

Up the middle of the gently angled slab.

3 RB's to DBB.

Beginners delight. The right hand side of the easy angled slab.

4 RB's to DBB.

Start on slab to right of overhanging wall. Finish next to small tree.

5 RB's to DBB.

3m right of AG. Follow the grey streak to left of large diagonal crack.

5 RB's to DBB.

Isolated crag.

Sustained moves up the arête. 5 RB's to DBB.

Up corner past orange rock at ¾ height. Step right at top. 6 RB's to DBB.

It starts in an overhanging wide crack with some soft, suspect rock for the feet. It works up through a pod that can be stemmed and face climbed around.

Start: The route follows the obvious overhanging corner left of Dad's Comb.

Start under right-hand end of overhang. Step out and up following crack.

Natural gear.

Start to right of Dad's Comb trad route. Up to third bolt, step left and follow last 2 bolts diagonally left to anchors.

5 RB's to DBB

Featuring some of the tallest cliffs at New Nowra, this crag has a scattering of true classics, especially if grade 23 is your fav. It's the area canvassing the cliffs between Moonshine and Hylands Lookout. There are about 30 routes spread out along a number of buttresses, each with a very different feel. The est routes are in the 22-24 grades.

After walking along the amazing chossy overhangs, once you get to the end you will find the climbing at the back near the exit.

Hard start, easing middle then a nails hard slab at the top. Hoist yourself up with some underclings then follow the vague arete

Use the faint flake trending left. Put a long draw or stick clip 2nd bolt. Open project by now?

Start 4 mtrs left of corner. Hard start getting thru the pockets then up to mantles and easing to the scoop at top.

Starts in the corner then you layback the crack, which leads to a steepening head wall.

Starts 3 Mtrs Right of JJ climbs the pillar thru the little roof.

Start at block R of F&B. Up over block and up face to rooflet. Over that and up to anchors. 9 bolts (I think)

A large impressive cliff up to 30m high with several New Nowra classics. There are also some less than inspiring black slabs and bolted crack routes.

The first few routes are on a grungy black wall with short orange streaks.

Starts on black and orange wall just left of cave with large fern growing in corner.This climb starts on the big flake and takes the left hand line of bolts. Surely an open project after 6 years?

Same as Whiskey a go go and follow the line of bolts right at third bolt and pull thru the orange bulge, then pick your way up the thin head wall to finish at SOHO's anchors. Surely an open project after 6 years?

Start 3 mtrs right of large fern, straight up black wall. Hardish start leads to easy mid section with a punchy finish. Surely an open project after 6 years?

Technical slab climbing. Start 10m left of Boogie Nights. Route has two holes in the bulge up high. Climb slab to tricky mid section then bulge above.

Start just left of the shrubbery on the cliff. Thin, technical and sustained slab climbing. Follow the little corner then up the steepening slab.

Feeling a bit deflated? This is the one for you. The black slab a few meters left of the corner. Start at the base of the corner. Follow the bolts, with some engaging climbing all the way to the anchors.

Just to the right of a major corner is this nice big wall with a splitter crack on the left side.

The left leaning splitter crack in the wall 4m right of major corner. Some classic crack climbing and with bolted face climbing at the top. Take small to medium cams and medium to large nuts.

Finally a good route. Classic thin face climbing starting just right of the Old Dogs crack.