Affichant les 47 voies total.
Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Popularité | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Santa Carla | |||||
V0 | Dummy's Guide to Killing Vampires
FA: Brae Hilditch | ||||
V4 - 8 | Something here (project - open)
Sit start then up the crimpy edges. | ||||
V2 | ★ Easier to kill than expected
Sit start two hands on jug at left hand end of ledge. Straight up. Gain the top. Initially seems tough but with the right beta goes pretty easy. FA: Jack Mullaly FA: 27 Juil 2021 | ||||
V2 | A slow escape
Sit start both hands on jaggy right hand end of ledge. Straight up. Avoid temptation to go left to bulbous edge. Using only the two main edges above the lip and directly above the start holds. | ||||
V2 | A tangential escape
Easier and slightly more secure finish to a slow escape uses the bulbous edge to the left when topping out. Kind of depends on your taste though. | ||||
V2 | The envious zombie
As per a slow escape but instead of using the intermediate hold for a 2, go straight for the lip for a zombies undying envy. | ||||
V2 | ★ A slow bite
Start as per a slow escape but head diagonally right and up to top out a pinch is better than a bite. Probably a V2, maybe a soft 3. | ||||
V2 | ★ A pinch is better than a bite
Starts in the middle of the vertical face 1 to 1.5m right of a slow escape. Stand start pinching two rib high chockstones. Straight up. Probably v2, maybe a soft 3. | ||||
V3 | Chestsplosion
Sit start diagonal edge (right hand) and sidepull (left hand) at right hand end of face. Traverse the face heading left (the lip and above are out). Top out a slow escape. Note - this may actually be the original start to headsloposion. Needs someone to confirm. | ||||
V1 | ★ Lost memories
Sit start as per chestplosion then up just to the right of a pinch is better than a bite (left hand for this problem is typically right hand for a pinch is better than a bite). FA: Adrian Bowman, 27 Juil 2021 | ||||
V4 | ★★ Headsplosion
This route was added to The Crag by Alex Mougenot (FA) but it wasn't added to a topo, nor was a description provided. From what I (Jack Mullaly) can tell from an old conversation in the area history, it traverses this boulder right to left. We assume it starts are the right hand diagonal edge and finishes far left. Certainly the crux is towards the left where the nice holds on top run out. Feel free to adjust if you know better than I! FA: Alex Mougenot | 4m | |||
V1 | Far left
Sit start. Both hands on jug at corner. Head up staying far left. Use only the approx. 60cm of rock to the left of the faint crack. | ||||
V1 | Diagonal left
Sit start. Both hands on diagonal edge. Straight up without using obvious arete holds to left (as used in far left). | ||||
V2 | ★★ Thumbelina
Thumb press eye height ledge. Straight up without using good holds to left (diagonal left) or right (my kingdom for a brush). Slopers only. | ||||
Thumbelina sit (project - open)
Sit start version to thumbelina. Find a start and go for it. | |||||
V2 | My kingdom for a brush
Sit start. Hands on small holds just below base of main bulge. Left is a good edge. Right is a good crimp. Up to diagonal rail then head up and let to good holds on top. Forgot my brush for FA. Was very dirty. | ||||
Brush very important (project - open)
Start as per my kingdom for a brush. Head straight up. Enjoy the slopers. | |||||
V0 | ★ Intro to deadpointing
Hands on great juggy ledge. Throw to lip. | ||||
V4 | Where's my foot
Lip traverse right to left. Start at amazing sidepulls at far right. Traverse left and top out far left. Has a really great mix of different moves and holds. Graded V4 but might be better as a 3. Needs a second ascent. FA: Jack Mullaly, 21 Juil 2021 | ||||
Hudson's Bluff | |||||
V6 | Delaminating consciousness
Stand start on obvious jug to the right of two quality edges. Traverse left into the start of praise the cobble and then top up. An extended and much more difficult version could continue further left into the start of Will it Go and then top out from there. FA: 30 Juin 2023 | ||||
V1 | ★★ Two quality edges
Both hands on lip above head high. Feet on obvious knee height shelf. Gain the top using two quality edges on top. | ||||
Never an edge (project - open)
As per two quality edges but gain the top without the edges. | |||||
V2 | Instrumantle
Starts 1m left of two quality edges. Two hands in sloping divot at lip. Right foot in knee height pocket. Left foot smear. Throw right hand to square edge of lip to right. Obtain the top. Do not use large foot ledge to right (start of two quality edges). FA: Jack Mullaly, Juil 2021 | ||||
Into the void (project - open)
Start on the same hand holds as Instrumantle. Foot on small face holds as required. Move up and slightly left into the slopers and cobbles above. Do not use the good edge as of Instrumantle. Do not stray too far left into Mantle unpieced (although if you do that and it helps your beta break is amazing). Gain the top. | |||||
V3 | Mantle unpieced
Starts 0.5m to right of starter. Both hands undercling obvious chest height ledge. Left foot on foot hold used in Starter. Right foot smear. Straight up without using any part of the main Starter edge (you may undercling it if you want) (you maybe also use the slopey crimps immediately at the right hand end of the ledge) FA: Jack Mullaly, 5 Août 2021 | ||||
V0 | ★★ Starter
Both hands start on large obvious edge. Right foot on ground level jug. Straight up | ||||
V5 | ★★ Detrimantle
Starts 0.4m to left of starter. Hands in each of two shoulder high sloping divots. Feet on ledges 10cm above ground. Straight up without using the Starter ledge. Graded on FA at V5, however this needs a repeat to confirm. Could actually be anywhere from V3 to V7. Likely easier to for tall people and very hard for those short of stature. Équip.: Jack Mullaly FA: Jack Mullaly, 2 Août 2021 | ||||
V3 | ★★ Praise the cobble
Feet on shelf at ground level. Left hand on hold just above head. Move up and slightly right. Maybe should only be V2. FA: Jack Mullaly, 9 Juil 2021 | ||||
V3 | Praise the cobble sit start
Sit start down and left of standard praise the cobble start. Left hand on good sidepull. Right hand originally very gently nearby on slightly loose flake (Now broken. Use nearby cobbles instead) Up and right to standard praise the cobble start and top it out as normal. FA: Jack Mullaly, 10 Août 2021 | ||||
V4 | Praise the mantle unpieced
Start as per the praise the cobble sit start. Traverse left through detrimantle start to the mantle unpieced start. Top out via mantle unpieced. At no point may you use the Starter ledge. FA: Jack Mullaly, 10 Août 2021 | ||||
Praise the jenga (project - open)
Sit start as per praise the cobble sit start. Traverse left into the start holds of Just Jenga and climb it. Make sure you get to the start holds before heading up. Resist the temptation to skip them. Likely to go around V4. | |||||
V2 | Just Jenga
Right hand in mono pocket above head height. Left hand on jug 30cm to the left. Right foot high. Get on statically with left foot dangling just above the ground for a moment then start moving up and slightly right. Your feet may use some holds from praise the cobble, but the hands are on their own independent holds. FA: Jack Mullaly, 23 Sept 2021 | ||||
V6 | ★★ The Elusive White Rhino
Sit start. Left hand on good edge 10cm left of big cobble. Right hand 60cm to right of big cobble on slopey edge with small inset slopey cobble. Head straight up to large sidepull and then left into angled slopey rail. Équip.: 2021 FA: Ben, 16 Juil 2023 | ||||
V6 - 8 | Will it go (project - open)
As per The elusive white rhinobut don't use the large sidepull. Note that sidepull is excluded because there used to be a dead tree here when the project was originally set. Note the original name for this project is likely either the Nanook Project or the Hellhound project. | ||||
Nanook Project
The Nanook Project and the Hellhound project were originally added to the Santa Carla topo but according to Alex M they are located at the left hand end of Hudson's Bluff, in the vicinity of Will it Go. | 3m | ||||
Hellhound Project
The Nanook Project and the Hellhound project were originally added to the Santa Carla topo but according to Alex M they are located at the left hand end of Hudson's Bluff, in the vicinity of Will it Go. | |||||
The Sea Cave | |||||
Project 1
Establish at the corner and then mantle the arete without using any of the other boulders (i.e. feet stay on the main roof boulder). | |||||
Stages 12 and 15 | |||||
Project 1
Sit start low on arete on good hold. Follow features in layback up to top out at peak. Avoid desire to mantle low and walk up. Équip.: Jack Mullaly | |||||
Project 2
Sit start, probably on cobbles. Up left to pocket. Gain top. Will need a lot of cleaning. Équip.: Jack Mullaly | |||||
Us | |||||
Contrived layaway traverse 1 (project - open)
Establish on 4th layer from bottom. Layaway traverse left touching only that layer. When head passes tree and rock begins to cut inwards, mantle without using bottom 3 layes. Équip.: Jack Mullaly | |||||
Contrived layaway traverse 2 (project - open)
Establish on 3rd layer from bottom. Layaway traverse left touching only that layer. At left hand end (near small tree in picture) mantle using only that layer and one above. Équip.: Jack Mullaly | |||||
What's in the hole (project - open)
Sit start hands on 2nd bottom layer. Feet on bottom layer in hole. Head up Équip.: Jack Mullaly | |||||
The coffin | |||||
V0 | Everyone deserves a sit start
Sit start. Both hands on obvious jug. Sitting on flat rock. Gain the top. FA: 5 Août 2021 | ||||
V1 | Everyone deserves a side pull
Sit start. Left hand on sidepull. Right hand on jug of everyone deserves a sit start. Somewhat strong pull to start then up. FA: 5 Août 2021 | ||||
V2 | ★ Inefficient vampire avoidance
Sit start. Left hand sidepull. Right hand pressing up into roof. Strenuous move to pull up (maybe deserves a V3 for this) then grab the crimp on the bulge (start to cracker cobble crimp). Gain the top. FA: 5 Août 2021 | ||||
V2 | Cracker cobble crimp
Stand start. Left hand undercling. Right hand crimp the small edge chest height on the bulge. Throw left hand high and mantle. FA: 5 Août 2021 | ||||
Coffin project (open)
Sit start. Feet low in the coffin. Left hand low and inside on good edge (maybe loose). Right hand low on right face near bottom edge. Hand positions shown in topo taken from underneath. Find a way up. |
Affichant les 47 voies total.