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Affichage de 101 - 200 sur plus de 10,100 voies.

Cotation Voie Style d'escalade Popularité
Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Comic Strip Wall
22 Hyperspace

Shallow corner then R through bulges.

Start at bushes R of 'Asteroids'.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Rod Young, 1981

Trad 20m
Letting Go (variant)

The orange flake start, bolted by peter stebbins. Doubtful it's been done.

Trad mixteProjet 20m, 1
26 Letting Go

The others noodled around for a few days cleaning up the easy stuff, then Moorhead produced this! Sustained, with a strenuous bouldery crux. In fact, two bouldery strenuous cruxes.

Start at short black flake 10m R of 'Hyperspace'. Flake to grey coloured RB, L to pockets (#4 friend), then R up flake to tough finish.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981

Trad mixte 15m, 1
25 Failing New Romantic

The original start climbed a tree, which has since fallen down. Following this you needed to batman to a the bolt and start at the flake. An independent right hand start which goes free from the ground was later bolted and climbed.

Start at the next flake R of 'Letting Go'. Climb the edges up the face to the R, then layback with difficulty up weakness past another bolt. Originally given 24 with a rumour it was hard for the grade.

FA: Steve Howden, Chris Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1982

FFA: Kevin Lindorff & Hywel Rowlands, 2018

Trad mixte 15m, 2
28 Slime Time

Originally 26 in the best of Law sandbagging tradition. Quite good, and not particularly slimy. Reachy though, looks way harder below about 6' reach.

Start R of 'Failing New Romantic'. 2 bolts up the seam, step L, then finish past a couple of fixed wires.

FA: Mike Law & Paul Hoskins, 1982

Trad mixte 15m, 2
Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area The Thimble
16 Yakshini

The line just L of the arete.

Start on the black back wall of The 'Thimble' which faces 'Comic Strip Wall', 1m L of the arete.

FA: Hanut Singh-Dodd, Kasia Kazimierczak & Martin Lama, 1992

Trad 11m
19 The Last In Line

The arete.

Start just R of 'Yakshini'.

FA: Martin Lama & Hanut Singh-Dodd, 1992

Trad 11m
16 Nothing Too Serious

Short corner then R and up.

Start 1m R of 'The Last In Line'.

FA: Martin Lama & Hanut Singh-Dodd, 1992

Trad 10m
24 R Stabbur

Beware loose block. Adequacy of pro is unknown. Join 'Nothing Too Serious' at the top.

Start 3m R of NTS, just L of tree.

FA: Patrik Alsebv, 1995

Trad 12m
18 Thimble

The crack.

Start beneath the R side of the front face.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1977

Trad 9m
22 Pinpricks Of Blood

Long moves between good holds. Start direct. Size 3 Camalot handy. Finish right onto the arete.

FA: Douglas Hockly & Paul Deacon, 2009

Trad 10m
23 Wingspan

Start on arête up and left past bolt up to break 3cam then straight up to top of head wall small wires, then finishing out right on arête and up to high anchor

Équip.: muki woods, 25 Juil 2014

FFA: muki woods, 25 Juil 2014

FA: muki woods, 25 Juil 2014

Trad mixte 10m, 1
24 Drowsy Drivers Die

The arete.

Start 2m R of 'Thimble'.

FA: Roland Foster & James Anderson, 1989

Trad mixte 9m, 2
Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall
26 Fitzroy Street

Wall 5 metres left of 'Crucifixion'. Hopelessly contrived. You can sort of make an OK 21 out of it by zigzagging left and right.

FA: Martin Grullich, 1986

Trad mixte 12m, 4
16 Crucifixion

Grunt your way up the offwidth crack on the wall around left from 'The Rack'.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Alec Campbell & Bruce Osborne, 1966

Trad 12m
22 Blasphemy

Start at the arete just L of 'Christian Crack'. Up the corner on the arete, trend right past FH, before landing on the ledge. From here you work your way back right, and the theory is that you finish up the arete, but inevitably the holds lead you further right, such that it feels contrived to avoid finishing up 'Christian Crack'.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1979

Trad mixte 15m, 1
20 Christian Crack

Excellent sustained climbing up the line with great pro. A borderline classic. There are two striking cracks on the wall on the left side of Colosseum Wall - this is the left one.

Ann Pauligk's 1977 ascent was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade.

FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1966

FFA: Joe Friend, 1974

Trad 13m
18 The Rack

People rave about this being a brilliant jamming testpiece, when in fact its a one move wonder ... so ticking it doesn't prove you're a jamming maestro. It's a very nice little climb though. The crack 3m R of 'Christian Crack'.

FA: John Ewbank, 1968

Trad 13m
21 The Bolt

Start just R of 'The Rack' and go up past the BR.

FA: Russell Chudleigh, 1984

Trad mixte 13m, 1
5 Spasticus

The scrubby corner.

Trad 10m
22 X No Wall At All

A low bolt then try not to die above that.

Start: Start between 'Spasticus' & 'Nero'.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1981

Trad mixte 12m, 1
14 Nero

The crack requires a bit of jamming.

Start 3-4m R of the 'Spasticus'.

FA: Philip Stranger & Andrew Smith, 1966

Trad 13m
21 Petronius

The steep corner.

Start 6m R of Nero.

FA: Fred Langenhorst & Bruno Zielke, 1969

FFA: Andrew Thomson, 1977

Trad 15m
24 R Petro-Fy

Arete with poor pro.

Start 3m R of 'Petronius'

FA: Peter Martin & Mark Savage, 1990

Trad 15m
14 Tom Thumb

The layback corner.

Start 1m R of 'Petro-Fy'.

FA: Bruno Zielke & Fred Langenhorst, 1969

Trad 15m
19 Brutus

The corner then finish R.

Start 1m R of 'Tom Thumb'.

FA: Peter Martin, Rob Tymms & Mark Savage, 1990

Trad 20m
16 Castration

LH crack in narrow buttress, then R to a pair of thin cracks.

Start beneath the roadside-face of the buttress.

FA: Paul Gillis & John Bowen, 1970

Trad 15m
12 What Have the Romans Done for Us?

The provided description is as follows: "Offwidth crack on left side of main nose of 'Colosseum Wall'. Not necessarily that new!" This sounds like it should be near 'Castration'. But how an 8m route could be in this vicinity is a bit baffling. Also it sounds like it might be left of 'Castration', but that area is already pretty packed with routes and they're well harder than grade 12. So, an improved description of this would be nice.

FA: FRA Biggus Dickus, 1996

Trad 8m
6 Toga

The line.

Start around R from 'Castration', on the wall facing The Pines, at the initial.

FA: Paul Gillis, John Bowen & Peter Lindorff, 1970

Trad 12m
15 Flavius Maximus

Try to stay out of the chimney, then finish up the crack on the R. The direct finish has also been done by Peter Lindorff.

Start just R of the descent chimney.

FA: Peter Lindorff, Colin Lindorff & Paul Gillis, 1970

Trad 14m
19 Roman Ite Domum

The wall right of 'Flavius Maximus'. This was also written up as 'Tribute To God' in the April 2009 Argus.

Over block to undercling, then straight up wall to top. Protection in crack on left of wall.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1996

Trad 10m
20 I've Got A Big Honker

The usual claim of those who don't...

Start 8m R of FM. To break (wire on left), then right to bulge.

FA: Sam Blainey & Andrew White, 1991

Trad 12m
16 The Martyr

The bottomless corner.

Start 2m R of 'I've Got A Big Honker'.

FA: Julie Tulloch & Bill Andrews, 1975

Trad 11m
12 Welease Wodger

I assume its the grey wall between The Martyr wall and the Welease Witchard wall.

FA: Graeme "Chapman" Jones & Eric "Idle" Jones, 1996

Trad 15m
12 Welease Witchard

5m right of 'Welease Wodger' is a small buttress. This takes scrappy line up left.

FA: Smith & Paul Hoskins, 1996

Trad 15m
17 Welease Bwian

The right line.

FA: Hoskins & Smith, 1996

Trad 15m
21 People Called Romans, They Go The 'Ouse

Up the wall 1m right of corner 10m right of 'Welease Bwian'. Continue up crack from ledge at 3/4 height.

FA: Hoskins, G. Jones & Smith, 1996

Trad 15m
12 Incontinentia Buttocks

The jam crack 10m right of 'People Called Romans, They Go The 'Ouse'.

FA: Biggus Dickus, 1996

Trad 8m
14 Roaming Knows

The nose on the buttress 8m right of 'Incontinentia Buttocks'. Start on the right side of arete, then up and over nose.

FA: Smith, Hoskins, G. Jones & Ed Irvine, 1996

Trad 8m
11 Hail Spagnum

The rightward leaning crack around right of 'Roaming Knows'.

FA: G. Jones & Irvine, 1996

Trad 8m
Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area The Shark fin
16 tool bender

first accent

Bloc 6m
18 dont chuck your shoes till it is over
Trad 7m
5 milking the dorsal fin
Trad 7m
23 spiderman savior
Trad 7m
Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area The Pimple
15 Master Chalk

Rotten crack.

Start: Start off the ledge on the E side of the pinnacle.

FA: Chris Baxter, Tim Hancock & Peter McKeand, 1977

Trad 10m
19 I've Been a Bunny

Lean R and clip the BR on the unknown bolted line. Then go straight up.

Start: Start R of MC at jugs.

FA: Mark Colyvan & Greg Pritchard, 1986

Trad mixte 12m, 1
Unknown bolted line

Bolted pre-86, and even then the 2nd bolt was poxy and the 3rd bolt hadn't been put in. Unsurprisingly this seems to have been completely ignored ever since.

Sportive 2
21 Squeeze Me Gently

The arete, veering L.

Start: Start where the E face meets the N face.

FA: Ian Anger & James Falla, 1986

Trad 10m
21 Gadoong, Gadoong

Try and find this one, I dare you.

Start: South of the 'Pimple', across the vegetated gully is a short grotesquely overhung wall and right of this a small wall behind a large boulder. On this wall is a big detached flake, forming a ledge. Start at the lowest point of the ledge.

FA: Smith, Bride & Pritchard, 1996

Trad 10m
Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area White Mice Walls
21 Controlled Burn

Starts on left side of the wall immediately left of 'Bermuda Triangle'. Up to where a series of wedged blocks in a horizontal break leads right. Follow this rightwards until you are nearly at the BT roof then climb strenuously straight up to top using a series of pockets. - Fun!

FA: Richard Curtis & Phil Armstrong, 1978

Trad 20m
20 Bermuda Triangle

The corner, then R around the roof.

Start: Start beneath the distinctive orange triangular roof towards the L end of the crag.

FA: Roland Pauligk & Barry Edwards, 1977

Trad 12m
18 Thighs and Quivers

The weakness up the thin face.

Start: Start 6m R of BT.

FA: Nick Neagle, Tony Barker & Paul Francis, 1989

Trad 20m
19 Bridge of Thighs

Very contrived as it's much easier to use jugs just L.

Start: Start 5m R of T&Q.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Peter Watson & Rob Thompson, 1982

Trad 20m
12 Left Hand Variant

Big L-facing corner with an attractive flake-crack in excellent orange rock. At a length of only 24m, the original probably finished at the ledge at the top of the left-facing corner/flake, and walked off left past the base of 'Bermuda Triangle'. However, it seems fairly obvious to do a second pitch up the short corner just left, then step right and up the orange crack above (this is shown in the topo).

Start: Start ~50m R of BT.

FA: Bill Andrews & Peter Watling, 1977

Trad 24m
11 Right Hand Variant

The corner on the R to ledge, then interesting curving corner.

Start: Start as for LHV.

FA: Bill Andrews, Julie Tulloch & Dave Simpson, 1975

Trad 40m
10 Uncle Bob’s Folly

If you can find this you're doing better than us. May be a repeat of final crack of 'Right Hand Variant'

Start: High on the broken cliffs right of Bermuda triangle is a curving offwidth crack which is almost impossible to see from anywhere. Find your way to the base of this.

FA: Glenn Marsden & Greg Pritchard, 2006

Trad 10m
14 Dud Day Afternoon

The topo for this route and the next few is pretty much a guess. Left of the start of 'Ddark Ddigit' is a broken orange wall with an arete on the right hand side. Pitch one follows this arete.

  1. 20m (14) Up arete.

  2. 30m (14) Scramble up left to middle of wall. Up most obvious line.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard (alts) & James Falla., 2000

Trad 50m, 2
20 Ddark Ddigit

Easy wall, orange rock, then L under overhangs to arete. Up it.

Start: Start 30m L of 'Light Fingered' (which is described on a separate page).

FA: Rod Young & Tim Chapman, 1981

Trad 40m
20 A Sore Thumb

Easily to pillar then flake up R. L below bulge and up seam.

Start: Start at obvious slender buttress between DD and 'Light Fingered'.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little & Maureen Gallagher, 1988

Trad 40m
14 A Sore Finger

Steep direct line with some brittle rock.

The vertical seam/crack on the right side of the pinnacle of A Sore Thumb, finishing up steep crack.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Pete Canning, 2008

Trad 25m
7 R The Shaker

An obscure choice for this era when almost all the other classics of 'Arapiles' were still unclimbed! For over thirty years guidebooks placed this climb in the wrong gully. The good news is that no-one has missed it. Some awful rock.

Start a few metres right of A Sore Finger. There's a wonky letter S painted somewhere.

  1. 22m (7) The loose juggy crack to a large ledge.

  2. 32m (7) R and up loose dangerous rib.

  3. 12m (-) Scramble off.

FA: Daryl Carr & Jerry Grandage, 1966

Trad 66m, 3
Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully
12 What's My Motivation

Up to cracks and up to the ledge below 'Urban Sprawl'.

Start: Start: On the left of the entrance to 'Hunger' 'Gully' is twin cracks through a

shallow prow.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins., 1995

Trad 25m
Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully Upper Hunger
12 Nempnett Thrubwell

Start: Opposite VIMH.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Deb Sweet & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Trad 25m
12 Grope Lane

If you want to know the actual name they gave it - which would make even Nowra climbers blush - you'll have to ask them yourself.

Start: 2m right of Nempnett Thrubwell.

Up following faint line to top.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins, 1999

Trad 25m
12 Dance of the Flaming Anus
Trad 10m
12 Uncle Fistula
Trad 10m
18 Angry, gun totin', meat eating people

Bridge up to gain flake and then follow it till angle eases. Up vague

arete to top.

Start: Start: 3m right of chockstone step in gully, below flake.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard & Richard Smith, 1999

Trad 10m
20 The first six inches

Bridge up to gain flake and climb up to roof. Swing through roof.

Start: Start: Three metres right again is another flake.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard & Richard Smith, 1999

Trad 20m
20 Voices in my head

Anyone who isn't paranoid lacks imagination. A technical onsight lead. Continue down the gully past a short step. Directly under the narrowest part of the gully there is a shallow black corner which leans right and runs up to a series of roofs and overhangs. Directly above the start of this route there is a thin crack through a large overhang. The line shown in the topo is a guess.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard, James Falla. (Improved LHF by Jon Bassindale & Nikki Sutherland), 2000

Trad 21m
15 Someone shoulda shot Elvis back in '57

See if you can pick the theme running here?

Start: 4m Right of VIMH below an obvious corner.

Up corner to roof which is swung around to the right.

FA: Jon Bassindale, Deb Sweet & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Trad 20m
15 Twelve Long Haired Friends of Jesus in a Short Tailed Microbus

Start: Continue down the wall from SSSBI57. The wall gets smaller and grey and then rises again with steep orange rock. On the left of this section is an obvious leftward diagonal. Start below the right end of this diagonal.

Up to gain the diagonal which is followed until it seems to make sense to swing back right and up.

FA: Nikki Sutherland, Jon Bassindale & Greg Pritchard, 2000

Trad 15m
20 Gutless Gutless Bunny

Start: Continue down the wall from SSHSEBI5. The wall gets smaller and grey and then rises again with steep orange rock. On the left of this section is a line (starting just left of the hole) that goes up past a large pocket.

Up line.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Richard Smith, 1999

Trad 15m
10 Groove Terminator

Up this.

Start: On the left wall of Buttress Buttress 'Gully' (Upper Hunger), right of the steep stuff, is a shallow groove.

FA: Glen Marsden & Greg Pritchard, 2006

Trad 20m
Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully
21 Urban Sprawl

The crack at the L end of the short overhung orange wall.

Start: Start at the top of a steep gully L of 'Light Fingered'.

FA: Rod Young, 1980

Trad 15m
23 Valley of the Deformed Pork Salesman

Caveat emptor!

Start: Start in the cramped gully, up L of 'Hunger'.

FA: Mike Law & Mark Colyvan, 1983

Trad mixte 20m, 1
24 Hunger

Bridge, then into seam with 1 bolt and 1 piton. Double rings on ledge.

Start: Start on the R wall of the gully L of 'Light Fingered'.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Mark Moorhead, 1981

Trad mixte 20m, 1
26 Motivated by Food

The seam.

Start: Start just R of 'Hunger'.

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1989

Trad mixte 25m, 1
28 Shagadelic

sling anchor is death

Trad mixte 25m, 3
22 Light Fingered

Struggle up the good line.

Start: Start below the obvious grey wall just before the gully narrows below crack that widens.

FA: Mike Law, 1977

Trad 25m
23 R Wub Wub Direct

Scary face with stacked blocks, then wall and arete.

Start: Start 2m R of LF.

FA: Mike Law & Ian ANger, 1983

Trad 30m
8 R The Match

Head R then up the chossy front-side of the prow.

Start: Start at the teetering stack on the R side of the gully, at the initials.

FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1966

Trad 25m
Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Bum Rocks
11 Fireman Don't Got Convictions

Traverse both cheeks via the orange weakness at half height.

Start: Start up the L side of Bum Rock.

FA: R. Sonist (ha ha), 1989

Trad 45m
18 Glutimus Maximus

Mantle, bulge, and groove past oval shaped roof.

Start: Start 3m L of the bumcrack, er, central chimney.

FA: Hanut Dodd & M Abbott, 1989

Trad 14m
16 High School Antics

Up L leaning flake, R to orange weakness through bulge, then L to seam.

Start: Start 1m R of GM.

FA: M Abbott & Newt Singh-Dodd, 1989

Trad 14m
16 Cling On

Start 3 metres right High School Antics on left side of chimney. Stay on left side of chimney avoiding the temptation to bridge at any stage. Climb up to horizontal crack and into corner. Up to overhang and obvious thread through. Blast through juggy overhang and spare a size 3 cam for pocket in upper head wall.

FA: Hywel Rowlands & Ben Wright, 1 Déc 2016

Trad 15m
22 Fingersmith

Slab just L of small overlap then L to arete.

Start: Start 3m R of the bumcrack.

FA: Wayne Jensen & Gavin Jensen, 1989

Trad mixte 16m, 2
15 Of Moss and Men

Loose flake then lichen. Reachy.

Start: Start 1m R of F.

FA: Wayne Jensen, Gavin Jensen, Martin Bride & Greg Incoll, 1989

Trad 15m
13 Side Saddle Sally

Start 3 metres left of Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding follow first of two shallow right facing corners, step right to block and directly up to top of pedestal. Climb through small juggy rooflet above pedestal. Small good gear.

FA: Hywel Rowlands & Ben Wright, Déc 2016

Trad 15m
12 Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding

Up the hanging block just L of the hole, then L leaning groove.

Start: Start on the R side of the crag.

FA: Fran Holland & Al Proudfoot, 1989

Trad 14m
11 Bottoms Up

Straight up the slab and clean wall about 3m right of Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 30 Jan 2016

Trad 14m
11 Wash Your Hands

Start as for Bottoms Up, moving diagonally right and up short grey wall to alcove. Straight up nice wall above, steeply at first. Juggy steep wall to the summit (originally done as a separate, 6m, pitch).

FA: Keith Lockwood & Steve Findlay, 28 Juil 2016

Trad 20m
13 Back Passage

The central groove on the grey cliff directly behind Bum Rock.

FA: Steve Findlay & Keith Lockwood, 28 Juil 2016

Trad 14m
Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Slander Wall
19 When Mark Was King

Bouldery start.

Start: Start on L side of Slander Wall.

FA: Brian Fish, 1982

Trad 12m
21 That Man Again

Finish up blunt arete.

Start: Start just R of WMWK.

FA: Brian Fish, 1982

Trad 12m
16 Evelyn's New Clothes

The thin corner.

Start: Start just R of arete.

FA: Evelyn Lees & Louise Shepherd, 1982

Trad 12m
13 Mouse Trap

Climb the corner in centre of Slander Wall with two crack until it is less contrived to stay in the left one to ledge. Then up line just left of the arete above until large ledge at 45. Head right to scramble down near the chasm to base of I'm a Little Dinosaur.

FA: Dick Evans & Gary Wills, 1979

Trad 45m
13 Rat Trap

This is the R corner of the alcove, once it is not madly contrived to stay out of Mouse Trap. Then up line on arete through friable rock.

FA: Ed Briner & Steve Stretton, 1971

Trad 45m
19 Chubby Like Chris

The nice thin crack on the arete, but don't reach L to make it easier!

Start: Start at the arete R of RT.

FA: Evelyn Lees & Brian Fish, 1982

Trad 12m
24 Chubby Like Chris Part II

The middle of the buttress, no wimping off the direct line.

Start: Start R of CLC.

FA: Mike Law, 1982

Trad mixte 12m, 1
18 Speedy Lou

The crack.

Start: Start R of CLCP2.

FA: Brian Fish & Evelyn Lees, 1982

Trad 12m

Affichage de 101 - 200 sur plus de 10,100 voies.

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