Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Popularité | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Comic Strip Wall | |||||
22 | ★ Hyperspace
Shallow corner then R through bulges. Start at bushes R of 'Asteroids'. FA: Chris Shepherd & Rod Young, 1981 | 20m | |||
Letting Go (variant)
The orange flake start, bolted by peter stebbins. Doubtful it's been done. | 20m, 1 | ||||
26 | ★★ Letting Go
The others noodled around for a few days cleaning up the easy stuff, then Moorhead produced this! Sustained, with a strenuous bouldery crux. In fact, two bouldery strenuous cruxes. Start at short black flake 10m R of 'Hyperspace'. Flake to grey coloured RB, L to pockets (#4 friend), then R up flake to tough finish. FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981 | 15m, 1 | |||
25 | ★ Failing New Romantic
The original start climbed a tree, which has since fallen down. Following this you needed to batman to a the bolt and start at the flake. An independent right hand start which goes free from the ground was later bolted and climbed. Start at the next flake R of 'Letting Go'. Climb the edges up the face to the R, then layback with difficulty up weakness past another bolt. Originally given 24 with a rumour it was hard for the grade. FA: Steve Howden, Chris Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1982 FFA: Kevin Lindorff & Hywel Rowlands, 2018 | 15m, 2 | |||
28 | ★ Slime Time
Originally 26 in the best of Law sandbagging tradition. Quite good, and not particularly slimy. Reachy though, looks way harder below about 6' reach. Start R of 'Failing New Romantic'. 2 bolts up the seam, step L, then finish past a couple of fixed wires. FA: Mike Law & Paul Hoskins, 1982 | 15m, 2 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area The Thimble | |||||
16 | ★★ Yakshini
The line just L of the arete. Start on the black back wall of The 'Thimble' which faces 'Comic Strip Wall', 1m L of the arete. FA: Hanut Singh-Dodd, Kasia Kazimierczak & Martin Lama, 1992 | 11m | |||
19 | The Last In Line
The arete. Start just R of 'Yakshini'. FA: Martin Lama & Hanut Singh-Dodd, 1992 | 11m | |||
16 | Nothing Too Serious
Short corner then R and up. Start 1m R of 'The Last In Line'. FA: Martin Lama & Hanut Singh-Dodd, 1992 | 10m | |||
24 R | Stabbur
Beware loose block. Adequacy of pro is unknown. Join 'Nothing Too Serious' at the top. Start 3m R of NTS, just L of tree. FA: Patrik Alsebv, 1995 | 12m | |||
18 | ★ Thimble
The crack. Start beneath the R side of the front face. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1977 | 9m | |||
22 | ★ Pinpricks Of Blood
Long moves between good holds. Start direct. Size 3 Camalot handy. Finish right onto the arete. FA: Douglas Hockly & Paul Deacon, 2009 | 10m | |||
23 | ★ Wingspan
Start on arête up and left past bolt up to break 3cam then straight up to top of head wall small wires, then finishing out right on arête and up to high anchor | 10m, 1 | |||
24 | ★ Drowsy Drivers Die
The arete. Start 2m R of 'Thimble'. FA: Roland Foster & James Anderson, 1989 | 9m, 2 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall | |||||
26 | Fitzroy Street
Wall 5 metres left of 'Crucifixion'. Hopelessly contrived. You can sort of make an OK 21 out of it by zigzagging left and right. FA: Martin Grullich, 1986 | 12m, 4 | |||
16 | ★ Crucifixion
Grunt your way up the offwidth crack on the wall around left from 'The Rack'. FA: Chris Dewhirst, Alec Campbell & Bruce Osborne, 1966 | 12m | |||
22 | ★ Blasphemy
Start at the arete just L of 'Christian Crack'. Up the corner on the arete, trend right past FH, before landing on the ledge. From here you work your way back right, and the theory is that you finish up the arete, but inevitably the holds lead you further right, such that it feels contrived to avoid finishing up 'Christian Crack'. FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1979 | 15m, 1 | |||
20 | ★★ Christian Crack
Excellent sustained climbing up the line with great pro. A borderline classic. There are two striking cracks on the wall on the left side of Colosseum Wall - this is the left one. Ann Pauligk's 1977 ascent was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade. FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1966 FFA: Joe Friend, 1974 | 13m | |||
18 | ★★ The Rack
People rave about this being a brilliant jamming testpiece, when in fact its a one move wonder ... so ticking it doesn't prove you're a jamming maestro. It's a very nice little climb though. The crack 3m R of 'Christian Crack'. FA: John Ewbank, 1968 | 13m | |||
21 | The Bolt
Start just R of 'The Rack' and go up past the BR. FA: Russell Chudleigh, 1984 | 13m, 1 | |||
5 | Spasticus
The scrubby corner. | 10m | |||
22 X | ★ No Wall At All
A low bolt then try not to die above that. Start: Start between 'Spasticus' & 'Nero'. FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1981 | 12m, 1 | |||
14 | ★ Nero
The crack requires a bit of jamming. Start 3-4m R of the 'Spasticus'. FA: Philip Stranger & Andrew Smith, 1966 | 13m | |||
21 | ★ Petronius
The steep corner. Start 6m R of Nero. FA: Fred Langenhorst & Bruno Zielke, 1969 FFA: Andrew Thomson, 1977 | 15m | |||
24 R | ★ Petro-Fy
Arete with poor pro. Start 3m R of 'Petronius' FA: Peter Martin & Mark Savage, 1990 | 15m | |||
14 | ★ Tom Thumb
The layback corner. Start 1m R of 'Petro-Fy'. FA: Bruno Zielke & Fred Langenhorst, 1969 | 15m | |||
19 | Brutus
The corner then finish R. Start 1m R of 'Tom Thumb'. FA: Peter Martin, Rob Tymms & Mark Savage, 1990 | 20m | |||
16 | ★ Castration
LH crack in narrow buttress, then R to a pair of thin cracks. Start beneath the roadside-face of the buttress. FA: Paul Gillis & John Bowen, 1970 | 15m | |||
12 | What Have the Romans Done for Us?
The provided description is as follows: "Offwidth crack on left side of main nose of 'Colosseum Wall'. Not necessarily that new!" This sounds like it should be near 'Castration'. But how an 8m route could be in this vicinity is a bit baffling. Also it sounds like it might be left of 'Castration', but that area is already pretty packed with routes and they're well harder than grade 12. So, an improved description of this would be nice. FA: FRA Biggus Dickus, 1996 | 8m | |||
6 | Toga
The line. Start around R from 'Castration', on the wall facing The Pines, at the initial. FA: Paul Gillis, John Bowen & Peter Lindorff, 1970 | 12m | |||
15 | ★ Flavius Maximus
Try to stay out of the chimney, then finish up the crack on the R. The direct finish has also been done by Peter Lindorff. Start just R of the descent chimney. FA: Peter Lindorff, Colin Lindorff & Paul Gillis, 1970 | 14m | |||
19 | Roman Ite Domum
The wall right of 'Flavius Maximus'. This was also written up as 'Tribute To God' in the April 2009 Argus. Over block to undercling, then straight up wall to top. Protection in crack on left of wall. FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1996 | 10m | |||
20 | I've Got A Big Honker
The usual claim of those who don't... Start 8m R of FM. To break (wire on left), then right to bulge. FA: Sam Blainey & Andrew White, 1991 | 12m | |||
16 | The Martyr
The bottomless corner. Start 2m R of 'I've Got A Big Honker'. FA: Julie Tulloch & Bill Andrews, 1975 | 11m | |||
12 | Welease Wodger
I assume its the grey wall between The Martyr wall and the Welease Witchard wall. FA: Graeme "Chapman" Jones & Eric "Idle" Jones, 1996 | 15m | |||
12 | Welease Witchard
5m right of 'Welease Wodger' is a small buttress. This takes scrappy line up left. FA: Smith & Paul Hoskins, 1996 | 15m | |||
17 | Welease Bwian
The right line. FA: Hoskins & Smith, 1996 | 15m | |||
21 | People Called Romans, They Go The 'Ouse
Up the wall 1m right of corner 10m right of 'Welease Bwian'. Continue up crack from ledge at 3/4 height. FA: Hoskins, G. Jones & Smith, 1996 | 15m | |||
12 | Incontinentia Buttocks
The jam crack 10m right of 'People Called Romans, They Go The 'Ouse'. FA: Biggus Dickus, 1996 | 8m | |||
14 | Roaming Knows
The nose on the buttress 8m right of 'Incontinentia Buttocks'. Start on the right side of arete, then up and over nose. FA: Smith, Hoskins, G. Jones & Ed Irvine, 1996 | 8m | |||
11 | Hail Spagnum
The rightward leaning crack around right of 'Roaming Knows'. FA: G. Jones & Irvine, 1996 | 8m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area The Shark fin | |||||
16 | ★★ tool bender
first accent | 6m | |||
18 | ★ dont chuck your shoes till it is over
| 7m | |||
5 | milking the dorsal fin
| 7m | |||
23 | ★ spiderman savior
| 7m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area The Pimple | |||||
15 | Master Chalk
Rotten crack. Start: Start off the ledge on the E side of the pinnacle. FA: Chris Baxter, Tim Hancock & Peter McKeand, 1977 | 10m | |||
19 | I've Been a Bunny
Lean R and clip the BR on the unknown bolted line. Then go straight up. Start: Start R of MC at jugs. FA: Mark Colyvan & Greg Pritchard, 1986 | 12m, 1 | |||
Unknown bolted line
Bolted pre-86, and even then the 2nd bolt was poxy and the 3rd bolt hadn't been put in. Unsurprisingly this seems to have been completely ignored ever since. | 2 | ||||
21 | ★ Squeeze Me Gently
The arete, veering L. Start: Start where the E face meets the N face. FA: Ian Anger & James Falla, 1986 | 10m | |||
21 | Gadoong, Gadoong
Try and find this one, I dare you. Start: South of the 'Pimple', across the vegetated gully is a short grotesquely overhung wall and right of this a small wall behind a large boulder. On this wall is a big detached flake, forming a ledge. Start at the lowest point of the ledge. FA: Smith, Bride & Pritchard, 1996 | 10m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area White Mice Walls | |||||
21 | ★ Controlled Burn
Starts on left side of the wall immediately left of 'Bermuda Triangle'. Up to where a series of wedged blocks in a horizontal break leads right. Follow this rightwards until you are nearly at the BT roof then climb strenuously straight up to top using a series of pockets. - Fun! FA: Richard Curtis & Phil Armstrong, 1978 | 20m | |||
20 | ★ Bermuda Triangle
The corner, then R around the roof. Start: Start beneath the distinctive orange triangular roof towards the L end of the crag. FA: Roland Pauligk & Barry Edwards, 1977 | 12m | |||
18 | Thighs and Quivers
The weakness up the thin face. Start: Start 6m R of BT. FA: Nick Neagle, Tony Barker & Paul Francis, 1989 | 20m | |||
19 | Bridge of Thighs
Very contrived as it's much easier to use jugs just L. Start: Start 5m R of T&Q. FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, Peter Watson & Rob Thompson, 1982 | 20m | |||
12 | Left Hand Variant
Big L-facing corner with an attractive flake-crack in excellent orange rock. At a length of only 24m, the original probably finished at the ledge at the top of the left-facing corner/flake, and walked off left past the base of 'Bermuda Triangle'. However, it seems fairly obvious to do a second pitch up the short corner just left, then step right and up the orange crack above (this is shown in the topo). Start: Start ~50m R of BT. FA: Bill Andrews & Peter Watling, 1977 | 24m | |||
11 | Right Hand Variant
The corner on the R to ledge, then interesting curving corner. Start: Start as for LHV. FA: Bill Andrews, Julie Tulloch & Dave Simpson, 1975 | 40m | |||
10 | Uncle Bob’s Folly
If you can find this you're doing better than us. May be a repeat of final crack of 'Right Hand Variant' Start: High on the broken cliffs right of Bermuda triangle is a curving offwidth crack which is almost impossible to see from anywhere. Find your way to the base of this. FA: Glenn Marsden & Greg Pritchard, 2006 | 10m | |||
14 | Dud Day Afternoon
The topo for this route and the next few is pretty much a guess. Left of the start of 'Ddark Ddigit' is a broken orange wall with an arete on the right hand side. Pitch one follows this arete.
FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard (alts) & James Falla., 2000 | 50m, 2 | |||
20 | Ddark Ddigit
Easy wall, orange rock, then L under overhangs to arete. Up it. Start: Start 30m L of 'Light Fingered' (which is described on a separate page). FA: Rod Young & Tim Chapman, 1981 | 40m | |||
20 | A Sore Thumb
Easily to pillar then flake up R. L below bulge and up seam. Start: Start at obvious slender buttress between DD and 'Light Fingered'. FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little & Maureen Gallagher, 1988 | 40m | |||
14 | A Sore Finger
Steep direct line with some brittle rock. The vertical seam/crack on the right side of the pinnacle of A Sore Thumb, finishing up steep crack. FA: Keith Lockwood & Pete Canning, 2008 | 25m | |||
7 R | The Shaker
An obscure choice for this era when almost all the other classics of 'Arapiles' were still unclimbed! For over thirty years guidebooks placed this climb in the wrong gully. The good news is that no-one has missed it. Some awful rock. Start a few metres right of A Sore Finger. There's a wonky letter S painted somewhere.
FA: Daryl Carr & Jerry Grandage, 1966 | 66m, 3 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully | |||||
12 | What's My Motivation
Up to cracks and up to the ledge below 'Urban Sprawl'. Start: Start: On the left of the entrance to 'Hunger' 'Gully' is twin cracks through a shallow prow. FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins., 1995 | 25m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully Upper Hunger | |||||
12 | Nempnett Thrubwell
Start: Opposite VIMH. FA: Jon Bassindale, Deb Sweet & Greg Pritchard, 1999 | 25m | |||
12 | Grope Lane
If you want to know the actual name they gave it - which would make even Nowra climbers blush - you'll have to ask them yourself. Start: 2m right of Nempnett Thrubwell. Up following faint line to top. FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard & Paul Hoskins, 1999 | 25m | |||
12 | Dance of the Flaming Anus
| 10m | |||
12 | Uncle Fistula
| 10m | |||
18 | Angry, gun totin', meat eating people
Bridge up to gain flake and then follow it till angle eases. Up vague arete to top. Start: Start: 3m right of chockstone step in gully, below flake. FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard & Richard Smith, 1999 | 10m | |||
20 | The first six inches
Bridge up to gain flake and climb up to roof. Swing through roof. Start: Start: Three metres right again is another flake. FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard & Richard Smith, 1999 | 20m | |||
20 | Voices in my head
Anyone who isn't paranoid lacks imagination. A technical onsight lead. Continue down the gully past a short step. Directly under the narrowest part of the gully there is a shallow black corner which leans right and runs up to a series of roofs and overhangs. Directly above the start of this route there is a thin crack through a large overhang. The line shown in the topo is a guess. FA: Jon Bassindale, Greg Pritchard, James Falla. (Improved LHF by Jon Bassindale & Nikki Sutherland), 2000 | 21m | |||
15 | Someone shoulda shot Elvis back in '57
See if you can pick the theme running here? Start: 4m Right of VIMH below an obvious corner. Up corner to roof which is swung around to the right. FA: Jon Bassindale, Deb Sweet & Greg Pritchard, 1999 | 20m | |||
15 | Twelve Long Haired Friends of Jesus in a Short Tailed Microbus
Start: Continue down the wall from SSSBI57. The wall gets smaller and grey and then rises again with steep orange rock. On the left of this section is an obvious leftward diagonal. Start below the right end of this diagonal. Up to gain the diagonal which is followed until it seems to make sense to swing back right and up. FA: Nikki Sutherland, Jon Bassindale & Greg Pritchard, 2000 | 15m | |||
20 | Gutless Gutless Bunny
Start: Continue down the wall from SSHSEBI5. The wall gets smaller and grey and then rises again with steep orange rock. On the left of this section is a line (starting just left of the hole) that goes up past a large pocket. Up line. FA: Paul Hoskins & Richard Smith, 1999 | 15m | |||
10 | Groove Terminator
Up this. Start: On the left wall of Buttress Buttress 'Gully' (Upper Hunger), right of the steep stuff, is a shallow groove. FA: Glen Marsden & Greg Pritchard, 2006 | 20m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Light Fingered Gully | |||||
21 | Urban Sprawl
The crack at the L end of the short overhung orange wall. Start: Start at the top of a steep gully L of 'Light Fingered'. FA: Rod Young, 1980 | 15m | |||
23 | Valley of the Deformed Pork Salesman
Caveat emptor! Start: Start in the cramped gully, up L of 'Hunger'. FA: Mike Law & Mark Colyvan, 1983 | 20m, 1 | |||
24 | ★★ Hunger
Bridge, then into seam with 1 bolt and 1 piton. Double rings on ledge. Start: Start on the R wall of the gully L of 'Light Fingered'. FA: Chris Shepherd & Mark Moorhead, 1981 | 20m, 1 | |||
26 | ★ Motivated by Food
The seam. Start: Start just R of 'Hunger'. FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1989 | 25m, 1 | |||
28 | ★ Shagadelic
sling anchor is death | 25m, 3 | |||
22 | ★★ Light Fingered
Struggle up the good line. Start: Start below the obvious grey wall just before the gully narrows below crack that widens. FA: Mike Law, 1977 | 25m | |||
23 R | Wub Wub Direct
Scary face with stacked blocks, then wall and arete. Start: Start 2m R of LF. FA: Mike Law & Ian ANger, 1983 | 30m | |||
8 R | ★★ The Match
Head R then up the chossy front-side of the prow. Start: Start at the teetering stack on the R side of the gully, at the initials. FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1966 | 25m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area Bum Rocks | |||||
11 | Fireman Don't Got Convictions
Traverse both cheeks via the orange weakness at half height. Start: Start up the L side of Bum Rock. FA: R. Sonist (ha ha), 1989 | 45m | |||
18 | ★ Glutimus Maximus
Mantle, bulge, and groove past oval shaped roof. Start: Start 3m L of the bumcrack, er, central chimney. FA: Hanut Dodd & M Abbott, 1989 | 14m | |||
16 | ★ High School Antics
Up L leaning flake, R to orange weakness through bulge, then L to seam. Start: Start 1m R of GM. FA: M Abbott & Newt Singh-Dodd, 1989 | 14m | |||
16 | Cling On
Start 3 metres right High School Antics on left side of chimney. Stay on left side of chimney avoiding the temptation to bridge at any stage. Climb up to horizontal crack and into corner. Up to overhang and obvious thread through. Blast through juggy overhang and spare a size 3 cam for pocket in upper head wall. FA: Hywel Rowlands & Ben Wright, 1 Déc 2016 | 15m | |||
22 | Fingersmith
Slab just L of small overlap then L to arete. Start: Start 3m R of the bumcrack. FA: Wayne Jensen & Gavin Jensen, 1989 | 16m, 2 | |||
15 | Of Moss and Men
Loose flake then lichen. Reachy. Start: Start 1m R of F. FA: Wayne Jensen, Gavin Jensen, Martin Bride & Greg Incoll, 1989 | 15m | |||
13 | Side Saddle Sally
Start 3 metres left of Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding follow first of two shallow right facing corners, step right to block and directly up to top of pedestal. Climb through small juggy rooflet above pedestal. Small good gear. FA: Hywel Rowlands & Ben Wright, Déc 2016 | 15m | |||
12 | ★ Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding
Up the hanging block just L of the hole, then L leaning groove. Start: Start on the R side of the crag. FA: Fran Holland & Al Proudfoot, 1989 | 14m | |||
11 | ★★ Bottoms Up
Straight up the slab and clean wall about 3m right of Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding. FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 30 Jan 2016 | 14m | |||
11 | ★ Wash Your Hands
Start as for Bottoms Up, moving diagonally right and up short grey wall to alcove. Straight up nice wall above, steeply at first. Juggy steep wall to the summit (originally done as a separate, 6m, pitch). FA: Keith Lockwood & Steve Findlay, 28 Juil 2016 | 20m | |||
13 | Back Passage
The central groove on the grey cliff directly behind Bum Rock. FA: Steve Findlay & Keith Lockwood, 28 Juil 2016 | 14m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Slander Wall | |||||
19 | When Mark Was King
Bouldery start. Start: Start on L side of Slander Wall. FA: Brian Fish, 1982 | 12m | |||
21 | That Man Again
Finish up blunt arete. Start: Start just R of WMWK. FA: Brian Fish, 1982 | 12m | |||
16 | Evelyn's New Clothes
The thin corner. Start: Start just R of arete. FA: Evelyn Lees & Louise Shepherd, 1982 | 12m | |||
13 | ★ Mouse Trap
Climb the corner in centre of Slander Wall with two crack until it is less contrived to stay in the left one to ledge. Then up line just left of the arete above until large ledge at 45. Head right to scramble down near the chasm to base of I'm a Little Dinosaur. FA: Dick Evans & Gary Wills, 1979 | 45m | |||
13 | Rat Trap
This is the R corner of the alcove, once it is not madly contrived to stay out of Mouse Trap. Then up line on arete through friable rock. FA: Ed Briner & Steve Stretton, 1971 | 45m | |||
19 | Chubby Like Chris
The nice thin crack on the arete, but don't reach L to make it easier! Start: Start at the arete R of RT. FA: Evelyn Lees & Brian Fish, 1982 | 12m | |||
24 | Chubby Like Chris Part II
The middle of the buttress, no wimping off the direct line. Start: Start R of CLC. FA: Mike Law, 1982 | 12m, 1 | |||
18 | Speedy Lou
The crack. Start: Start R of CLCP2. FA: Brian Fish & Evelyn Lees, 1982 | 12m |