Voies dans Australie

Up Telemachus's crack then straight up the arete above to stance. Step L below red patch and straight up the middle of the buttress to the top. Good gear at crux then run-out on easier ground.

Start around R from T. Rightwards crack to rest, L into hanging groove (BR), orange wall then L arete.

The start of Love That Pain, escaping up Necrophiliac. The rock is a bit dodgy at the start and the gear is fiddly but the climbing is OK.

...is another man's FA! Step across the block from the Necrophiliac anchor. Follow the dodgy rock across then up and over the overhang. Can belay using the Telemachus backup anchor bolt then rap from the Telemachus anchor.

Left curving crack with a few nice jams. Lower-offs (25m).

Start 1m R of Necrophiliac. The thin crack, careful of the loose block.

What's in a name?

Right of 'Cruxless Knickers' is a box corner.

Start 15m R of Necrophiliac. The crack R of a bush.

Up RftM then juggy traverse R around arete.

Great song, but the name is wasted on this route.

Walk up the gully R of the Atridae then back over the top to find a gully behind the Atridae. You are looking for the middle of a bulging orange wall on the "lefthand side" (whatever direction that may be!) of the gully, 30m up from a detached pillar.

Reachy.

Start: Start 4m L of SD, below little gumtree poking out of cliff.

"If you enjoy crumbling sea cliffs, you might feel at home on this" (Mentz-Tempest guide). Climb through moss to a ledge, to stand below the striking grey prow. Some gymnastic moves are required to get started, and if your second is not tall they will struggle to remove the gear you placed out of their reach at this point. Follow the line of pockets up, veering left at the end.

Up face, over pocketed roof, then up R to hole.

Start: Start under the arch.

Up the slick crack, traversing left to join Steel Delinquency. Probably not a good route to choose if your seconder can't jamb, because they'll likely hit the ledge if they come off at the start.

Start: Start beneath the white L-arching crack.

Polished face, with 1 BR which is scary to clip, and a scary finish.

Start: Start 2m R of SDV.

Short flake, then up wall past 2 RB and small gear to DRB.

Start: Start on ledge 5m around R of MS.

Up the patch of orange rock, 2 BRs.

Start: Start on the tiny outcrop which is downhill from 'Steel Delinquency' Pinnacle, and which faces the same way.

Trench Rawfare - It'll leave you raw!

Offwidth/Roof trench on the right hand side of Steel Delinquency Pinnacle. Approximately 6 meters to the left of Finger Prince.

Go up cave roof and out. Rappel Anchors installed at top of climb.

Offwidth Size Dependent!!

The L-facing corner, curving L at the end.

Start: Find this as described above.

The flake, pass small tree, and straight up.

Start: Start R of LS.

R and up at top.

Start: Start R of TFoC.

Flake then short wall.

Start: Start in middle of wall.

Start at the small flake but step L and then up.

Start: Start 2m R of CS.

Straight up the flake.

Start: Start as for V.

The corner.

Start: Start at the R end of Stockyard Wall.

Good mini-route.

Start: Start on the L arete of the 3rd blocky pinnacle.

Start on the L to gain the diagonal.

Start: Start on the 3rd blocky pinnacle, opposite the 2nd pinnacle.

The face.

Start: Start 1m R of CRaCM.

The flakes.

Start: Start directly opposite CRaCM.

The speckled face which may have a fixed wire. Start up around L of FP.

Flake, L past PR into small techie corner on arete. Finish L up flake or straight up. The direct start is 23 with a BR, and uses the original footholds as handholds. Start at the L arete of the FP pinnacle, 2m L of TT.

Up FP to the PR then R and up mossy streak. Start as for FP.

Cops an absolute bagging in Louise's guide. Start just right of Stirling Moss. It's the bolted line, not clear how many bolts it actually has.

The chimney between the Finger Prince and Iron Void pinnacles past funny blocks and ancient machine nut.

Start 8m R of Tubby Tuba. Up fragile looking flakes to join Iron Void. Gear may be suspect.

Start off the boulder and L and up the great face which swallows heaps of small wires - if you have the stamina to find the placements! You can also approach the same line by doing the reachy start of IVV.

A completely separate route despite the name! Start right of Iron Void and up.

Short, soft and bolted - needless to say this one is popular. Start on the uphill side of the Iron Void pinnacle.

Traverse out above The Flashing Blade, using the handholds of that route as footholds!

Up the face with 1 BR. Start as for FB.

The fine line L of the slim tree. Start on small orange face which is below and faces the same direction as the Flashing Blade.

Fingery up to BR, R across SO, and up past 2nd BR. Start up L of SO.

BR, then bold to overhang and 2nd BR. Go 4m up L then straight up. The direct finish goes slightly R from 2nd BR to 3rd BR. Start in gully L of F.

Heavy duty jams get you started on the flake system on the arete, then move L to guano and up to flake. Start at the L arete of the 4th pinnacle.

Small flake, face, small overlap then tend R. This route looks almost entirely unprotected. Start at the yellow wall which is above and R of Frenzy.

Start just R of F. The low red wall capped by a roof is taken via bouldery face moves then a crack. Finish up groove.

1. 20m (25) Take the RH crack through bulge, then move L after roof and up flake.

2. 20m (-) Simple crack in the middle of the face.

Start 5m R of WT. The incipient flake - take plenty of #1 RPs.

Start in corner left of 2nd pitch of Viagra. Up crack for 5m, traverse right and up to bolt. up past bolt with 2nd bolt on way to top.

A link-up of the first part of Bandwagon into the finish of Passionate Tips.

The squeeze chimney. 'Classic'. Start R of T.

Start just R of DM. The crack then slender buttress.

Start on wall R of DM. Up to the bolt then go R to arete and back L to puzzling moves up the seam. You can also boulder past the bolt at very contrived 24 but it's a better route at 21.

Good. Start at the buttress R of DM.

The arete. Start at the second last (and highest) pinnacle near the top of Organ Pipes Gully.

Start at the base of the "second hole" near the top of the 'Organ Pipes Gully'. Climb the front of the scrappy grey buttress.

A good effort for the era. Start just above the "first hole" as you walk up 'Organ Pipes Gully'. The initialled black, flared offwidth/chimney - you'll be needing big cams.

The physical hand crack, taking care with the blocks at the start. Start 2m R of Cerberus.

Looks like 36! Originally led on preplaced gear, repeated placing the gear by Gareth Llewellin - a pretty bold lead. Start a short way uphill from the back of the D Minor pinnacle, and just downhill from the boulder choke. Glassy bulging seam. Rack: Mostly #1 RPs.

Not well protected, a serious lead. Up Private Detective to seam (about 4m), diagonally left across face and up just right of arete.

Start 1m R of Private Detective. Go diagonally R, across Stentor pitch 3, and up arete. The Direct Start (18) starts 3m R of Stentor's 3rd pitch and goes straight up to the arete. Note the March 2004 route dubbed "Skin Flute" (14m 18) by Shaun Kratzer and Joshua Janes is almost certainly a repeat of this Direct Start.

One concerned father hired a private detective when his daughter started seeing Chris! Not that well protected. Start R around the arête from C, 3m L of Stentor's 3rd pitch.

Start on top of the Piccolo pipe and climb the middle of the wall on the D Major pipe. The start is a little bold but the rest of the route protects well. Finish at rap bolts.

Fairly ordinary. Start on the back of the Piccolo Pipe, about 5m L of Lemmington.

Start just L of Lemmington. The shallow groove, becoming very contrived to stay out of Lemmington.

Has steadily increased it's reputation over the years, and is now considered by some to be one of the best 19s at Arapiles. Start in the chasm between the D Minor Pinnacle and the Piccolo Pinnacle, on the Piccolo side. Approach by going L around the back of D Minor Pinnacle. The logs and chain in the gully are for erosion control; they are not designed or to be used as belay anchors.

The uphill arete of the pinnacle. No gear at the start. Join Aardvark to finish.

Start at the top end of the chasm between the D Minor Pinnacle and the Piccolo Pinnacle, opposite Lemmington. The thin crack over low overlap then R-facing flake to chains.

Start just R of Aardvark original start. The black groove to the ledge, then the short steep thin crack above.

Start at the left-leading diagonal crack. Follow it into the easy chimney on Cadenza Direct and up to the sloping ledge. Traverse 5m right to a tricky exit.

Follow the seams straight up from the start of Cadenza to the break, then finish up Cadenza. Take care as gear is hard to see and place.

Thin and glassy. Start 2m R of The Philosopher. Climb past 2 bolts, join The Philosopher, then at first horizontal traverse right to flake (FH) then up to anchor.

Start at a flaring chimney towards the foot of the south face. Up the chimney to a rest. Move up and L onto a mossy face and go L past a FH to the brink overlooking the gully. Then up the south wall all the way.

Fairly good climbing culminating in the left arete of D Minor. The strenuous crux past the last bolt is a little contrived though. Start at a short diagonal finger crack 3m right of the Quaver chimney.

1. 20m (16) Up finger crack to ledge then diagonally left into Quaver. Swing up left onto slab and FH and go straight up thin centre of slab to the first belay of D Minor.

2. 10m (20) Up arete left of D Minor - clip the first bolt from up L then drop back down and climb the front of the arete direct.

Up unprotected face two metres L of D Minor then a short crack to join D Minor.

The major crackline running up the middle of D Minor pinnacle. This climb has excellent protection but has a sad history of death and serious injury from people taking long falls off the top overhang onto the easy-angled middle section of the climb. Please take care to place multi-directional runners on the top overhangs so that lower runners are not pulled out by rope tension during a fall. Can be done in a single pitch taking care with rope management.

1. (25m, 10) Follow the crack on fine holds until jugs lead up a steepening. Easy angled ground leads to a great belay spot under the overhangs.

2. (10m, 14) Follow the crack through the overhangs.

Essentially the right arete of D Minor. Start 2m R of D Minor. Up thin stepped line. Things ease off from about half-height before an exciting finish up arete.

Good line up right side of D Minor Pinnacle. Start below bulging crack on arete right of D Minor.

1. 16m (16) Climb line past bulge.

2. 14m (18) Traverse right along the big break and take the crack up the middle of the wall. Two bulges at the top provide the excitement.

The little flake 2 metres right of the bulging crack.

1. 18m (11) Climb the front of the pipe past smooth bulge to small ledge. This cramped belay is usually avoided.

2. 15m (11) Continue up to top bulge which is easiest on right. Downclimb far side of pinnacle into Organ Pipes Gully to get off.

Subtle line on left side of the D Major Pipe. The third pitch, up the south-east face is mostly done as a climb in its own right.

1. 25m (18) Climb subtle seams to ledge (fiddly small wires).

2. 10m (5) Up chimney to ledge. The front of the thin buttress to the left is somewhat harder.

3. 15m (16) Up greenish streak up middle of steep left wall to rap anchor. A bloody good pitch.

A few good moves up the front of the D Major buttress. Start at the lowest point of the buttress.

1. 30m (16) Up easily till face steepens, up face to crack in buttress.

2. 20m (16) Start up chimney just left of D Major then step left above roof to front of juggy buttress.

Named after the key that has "two sharp pitches". It is possible to escape from the first belay through the narrow cleft to the left between Piccolo Pipe and D Major Pipe.

Start below the major line capped by a huge chockstone on the right wall of the D Major pipe.

1. 25m (10) Bridge up slick groove splitting bottom half of the buttress and under the boulder. It's a good idea to belay on top of the boulder.

2. 25m (10) From top of the boulder climb steep juggy buttress to chimney finish. An alternative to this pitch is to climb the chimney to the left. This is very narrow.

Start as for D Major, then take the line between D Major and Libretto.

Beautiful, sustained first pitch followed by a short hard section. Start below the well-chalked thin cracks taking the middle of the wall right of D Major.

1. 25m (14) Sustained climbing up the thin cracks to the big cave.

2. 25m (16) Move towards the front of the buttress and climb a short, difficult corner. Continue easily.

This is a good combination at the grade, dispensing with the cruxy second pitch of Libretto.

1. 25m (14) As for first pitch of Libretto.

2. 25m (14) As for pitch two of CS Concerto.

A fairly good route. Most of the first pitch is spent bridging up Holpyp which isn't bad and the top pitch is atmospheric. Start in the D Major gully.

1. 25m (-) Climb the gully until you can climb the seam on the left wall independently of the gully to cave belay.

2. 25m (14) Mantle onto block up a little corner and then left to arete. Up steep wall to top. Finishing up the arete is more exciting at 16 but be careful with the rock.

One of the old gullies that gets few takers. The roof is exciting but is also part of Ejaculation.

Good, varied climbing. Take some large hexes for the second pitch as the cams tend to walk their way open in a couple of spots. Start at the thin crack on the right wall of the gully.

1. 15m (15) Excellent finger layback crack on right wall of gully. Gear is excellent but pumped desperate leaders have run it out in the past and taken large falls.

2. 35m (15) Up the widening crack and left across the sickle into Holpyp. Up over the roof and carry on.

How? The initial crack of Ejaculation and then straight up from the plaque.

A good pump in the Organ Pipes? Start left of Diapason, 2m right of Ejaculation, beneath obvious overlap.

The first climb done in the Organ Pipes. A very pleasant outing. Start 8 metres left of big dead gum tree.

1. 20m (7) Follow crack, or face just left of crack, up buttress to ledge and the former location of a plaque to climbing pioneer Bob Craddock (who died in a car accident).

2. 25m (6) Step up and right around to the front of buttress and up to belay left of big tilted boulder.

3. 10m (8) Up short wall just left of boulder then up flaring chimney. An alternative to this pitch is to traverse left for 3 metres above the void and then climb the steep wall 7 metres left of the chimney. Optional fourth pitch is grade 10: From big ledge climb steep wall on right and finish up a crack on the left of the pinnacle. No one seems to do this these days but it is quite good.

Another gully.

A short, hard avoidable crux set amid a lot of easy climbing. Start as for Keyboard.

1. 45m (12) Up Keyboard until just above tree. Walk left and climb flake line just right of gully. Step left to belay on huge chockstone.

2. 32m (19) Step back right and up steep line through rooflet and then easily up.

Deep crack on left side of Conifer Crack buttress, in the gully. Take some large gear.

Very entertaining. Just be aware that at times you have to climb on large apparently detached blocks. Start 1 metre left of where the the big dead tree was until last Friday (i.e. left-hand crack on front of buttress).

1. 40m (9) Slabby thin crack on left side of buttress to ledge. Step right and pull through bulge then straight up to huge ledge.

2. 40m (9) Behind are twin V cracks up the right side of the buttress. It is usual to move straight up from the ledge and then move across right and climb the right-hand crack but either crack is OK. An optional third pitch is to climb the blade of rock at the end of the second pitch.

The central line up the Conifer Crack buttress is unfortunately not very sustained. Also it has a habit of dealing out broken ankles to leaders falling at the end of the crux. Start just right of Conifer Crack.

Desperate for short people. Start below the gully between the Conifer Crack and Didgeridoo pipes, immediately right of Woodwind.