Voies dans Australie pour la cotation selectionnée

The slightly overhung corner. Beware snapping holds especially on the poorly protected start.

Start: Just L of Melville's Cave.

Lovely rock to start, and a dramatic exit to finish.

Start: As for 'Revolver Crack' then head R up thin crack.

The fun starting move up to the vertical finger slot directly up the wall between the grooves of Dead Ned and OC. Well protected.

The crack requires a bit of jamming.

Start 3-4m R of the 'Spasticus'.

The layback corner.

Start 1m R of 'Petro-Fy'.

The nose on the buttress 8m right of 'Incontinentia Buttocks'. Start on the right side of arete, then up and over nose.

The topo for this route and the next few is pretty much a guess. Left of the start of 'Ddark Ddigit' is a broken orange wall with an arete on the right hand side. Pitch one follows this arete.

1. 20m (14) Up arete.

2. 30m (14) Scramble up left to middle of wall. Up most obvious line.

Steep direct line with some brittle rock.

The vertical seam/crack on the right side of the pinnacle of A Sore Thumb, finishing up steep crack.

From the ledge the preceding routes finish at, up the front of the pillar, through overlap and generally terrible rock.

Takes the slabby arete just right of the chimney-gully that Asteroid etc. step out from. Take some tape slings.

Crack 1.5 metres left of 'Serious Young Lizards'

Eliminate with a bouldery start between the L edge of the wall (with the yellow mini-pinnacle) and the easy crack.

Takes the south-west arete of Tarzan pinnacle. From the gully, follow crackline up to grey bulging arete, which is climbed to a little summit. Belay and abseil off bolts at the top of Togrul Khan.

If he wasn't then, he certainly is by now!

Start: Start at the base of the 'Gilt Edged' buttress.

Was 12 in previous guides! Given that the start move is outrageously hard for 13 that might have been from the time when 12 was the hardest route at the crag. Easily done in one pitch with extenders.

Start: Start at next break through overhang R of C-D-S.

1. 15m (13) The corner and easily up ramp.

2. 18m (13) Traverse left between overhangs, then up on jugs to top.

Start at the righthand chimney in the back of the gully.

1. 15m (12) Up the chimney and under the chockstone.

2. 15m (15) Take the left-facing curving flake on the right wall, then traverse right and up to rap anchor for Lex Luthor.

Start at a flaring chimney towards the foot of the south face. Up the chimney to a rest. Move up and L onto a mossy face and go L past a FH to the brink overlooking the gully. Then up the south wall all the way.

The major crackline running up the middle of D Minor pinnacle. This climb has excellent protection but has a sad history of death and serious injury from people taking long falls off the top overhang onto the easy-angled middle section of the climb. Please take care to place multi-directional runners on the top overhangs so that lower runners are not pulled out by rope tension during a fall. Can be done in a single pitch taking care with rope management.

1. (25m, 10) Follow the crack on fine holds until jugs lead up a steepening. Easy angled ground leads to a great belay spot under the overhangs.

2. (10m, 14) Follow the crack through the overhangs.

This is a good combination at the grade, dispensing with the cruxy second pitch of Libretto.

1. 25m (14) As for first pitch of Libretto.

2. 25m (14) As for pitch two of CS Concerto.

A fairly good route. Most of the first pitch is spent bridging up Holpyp which isn't bad and the top pitch is atmospheric. Start in the D Major gully.

1. 25m (-) Climb the gully until you can climb the seam on the left wall independently of the gully to cave belay.

2. 25m (14) Mantle onto block up a little corner and then left to arete. Up steep wall to top. Finishing up the arete is more exciting at 16 but be careful with the rock.

Desperate for short people. Start below the gully between the Conifer Crack and Didgeridoo pipes, immediately right of Woodwind.

Not attractive. Start as for Fiddle until the gully and then climb the wall 1 metre left of that climb avoiding bridging, stepping onto block or drifting into Didgeridoo.

Really good climbing on the first 25 metres. With the abseil anchor the awful climbing above this can now be forgotten. Start at short chimney 5 metres right of Humouresque. Up chimney then on up the narrowing line finishing with some face moves just to the left. Chain anchor.

The Alychne is apparently a line of zero luminance (Talbett was an optometrist). This climb isn't that bad but gets very little traffic; the mossy appearance, fiddly protection and indirect line tend to put people off. Double ropes are very useful.

Start 2 metres right of the short corner, just left of an easy, grotty crack.

Up slab to a ledge at 5 metres. Up through a weakness in the bulge (crux) and on to a small stance. Traverse easily left about six metres with poor protection (many RPs) to a crack. Move up into this and then go diagonally left and finish up the left-hand crack up the steep, juggy headwall.

Above 'Toccata' there is a small bowl ringed by cliffs (The Cirque of the Climbables). On the right wall there is potential for some new routes. Start in the middle of the wall on the black rock, go up then slightly right into line and to top.

Start:

It is a wonder that this line, claimed to be 30 metres long, survived for so long.

Down and right of 'Leafy Quoit' is an orange scoop whose right side is caped(sic) by a roof.

Northern side of Leafy Quoit Lump. Follow the crack line just right of the overhang, up to the big ledge, then start up the arete, then begin moving rightwards from about half way up the arete. Finish in a comfortable, L-facing corner with a large, slingable block for an anchor.

Start: The next line right.

The wall.

Start: Start just L of P.

2 stars might be a bit generous, but should help drum up the attention this excellent route deserves.

Start: Start 6m R of DS.

Up the L-leading fat flakes with excellent gear to excellent steep face/crack moves. Walk off the gully behind the wall.

The original rave review has been tempered by subsequent feedback, but it can keep a star for the moment.

Start: The subtle and improbable line 2m right of Two Dogs of Empiricism.

Up, finishing on arete.

Awkward layback start, through little overlap and up.

Start: Start: On the pinnacle right of the black slab at the front.

Up the slabs, and step L around the top overlap.

Start: Start between H & F.

A separate buttress 10m right of Purity and approximately 7 metres left of Heatherbell. Climb face , using the crack at 8m for gear and holds. Up to large ledge at 12m, step right 1m to gain crack with gear for the crux move to summit.

Below Treachery is a buttress shaped like a shark's fin. Start on the orange rock facing into Central Gully. Up the diagonal crack to the arete then up.

Do not climb to prevent erosion risk to new Central Gully track. Wall left of "Meanwhile…", on left end of the Mari cliff.

1. 20m Up the front of the clean wall, keeping left of the black moss streak.

Do not climb to prevent erosion risk to new Central Gully Track. Start 15m L of Megalomaniac. Go up below thick moss streak then step R to crack, up it briefly then up the buttress on the L staying out of the moss.

Worth 3 stars in some eyes, barely worth 2 to others! A classic hand crack with an annoying bulge at the start. When the crack opens into a chimney/gully at the top, continue following the crack veering left to find a belay stance and natural anchor.

3m right of Hassan is an easy crack. Up this, then continue up face above.

Avoids the unprotected start of Access, to end up with a pleasant face climb. Traverse right from the start of Eat Your Greens to a crack in a scoop and climb up from there.

Start at the crack R of A. Up the R crack, which doglegs left at half height. Good rock and climbing. Chain at about 30m.

Start as for WMT. Continue right and up the crack. Finish left at WMT anchor.

Up the line behind gum tree at right end of cliff. Meander left at top to anchor of Babylon or continue to base of Skyline Walls. Enjoyable climbing but be careful of large questionable blocks at 10m.

Start at the far right, beneath the highest part of the wall, where a striking but vegetated line goes up and L under roofs 20m up. Bridge up the groove to the R end of the roof. Now swing up R and up grey wall.

To descend, walk up to base of Copyright and scramble carefully down to chains on WMT.

Start by climbing to the first belay of Lawrence (which is on Dunes Buttress).

1. 25m (14) Bad rock and bad pro. From the ferny cave at Lawrence's first belay, traverse L, then go up diagonally L for 10m to ledge.

2. 20m (-) Steeply to ledge, step R off boulder, then traverse back L and up to the summit of Dreadnought pinnacle.

Good climb but watch out for loose rock up to the overhang. Belay on left side of big ledge 35m down abseil. Up grey then orange corner to the overhang. Steep through overhang and on up to final easy ground to top.

Originally started up 'Lawrence', a start no-one would want to repeat.

Start: Start by the giant chockstone.

1. 20m (14) Step onto the chockstone (or up short, steep wall just left of it) then juggy wall up to and up pale grey corner on right arete..

2. 40m (14) Up just left of the arete until things ease.

Up the slightly slabby face into the recess under the roof, then move R where it steepens to find the juggiest part of the overhang. Continue up wall above to ledge on left.

Start: At the pockety rock under the recess 12m R of Fang.

The bulging crack just right of the plaque.

On the trackside of the boulder. Up wall left of chimney.

Up jugs by pockets

Start just left of the SW arete of the pinnacle. Hand traverse R to shallow corner on R side of arete, and up it to slopy finish.

Start at the base of Thunder Crack. Traverse R along the major break to Bulger.

Spectacular climbing on the 'Swansong' wall. Steps left from a roof above the 'Hawk' traverse, then finishes up a hanging corner high on the right-hand tower.

1. 15m (2) Scramble up to the base of chimney.

2. 35m (12) Up the chimney. When it ends move to the right face ledge and traverse for about 15m till a stance under small overhang.

3. 30m (14) Up to a prominent nose with a 1m roof about 6m up and step left across the void underneath it and traverse another m or 2. Then up easily and and not very right at all to the orange rock (iffy rock and gear in places). Bolts on ledge.

4. 30m (13) Traverse right 8-10m and up to the groove in the arete (looks mossy, but is not too bad and in a great position), past bolt and straight up to Flinders Lane.

Start: Start as for 'Eagle Cleft'

1. 30m (-) As for EC.

2. 20m (12) As for EC then take the Hawk diagonal to the R for 10m.

3. 22m (14) Step L over bulge then up thin crack. At roof move L to arete and up.

4. 20m (14) Smooth wall and groove, trend L.

5. 25m (14) Overhang then easy finish to Flinders Lane.

The "Other" linkup of Kaiser and Resignation.

Climb the first two pitches of Resignation to belay just above the horns. Take the fun traverse L to finish up the last two pitches of Kaiser.

Increasing traffic means that this route has cleaned up quite nicely. With more traffic it should become as good as the Dribble but at a higher grade and with more varied climbing.

The climb originally included a grade 18 finish through the capping overhangs which Shaggy didn't think worth writing up.

Start: Start below a cleaned streak about 15 metres right of 'Broken Song'. There may be the remains of a cairn.

1. 40m (14) Climb slabby weakness through bulge to ledge, continue straight up to big ledge. A very good pitch.

2. 35m (13) Step R onto ridge, follow straight through bulge, passing weird holes 2 m to your L. Follow large flake to gain R hand of twin cracks to another bulge, pull this and belay on top.

3. 35m (13) Climb straight through 2 juggy bulges following obvious weaknesses. Continue up to gain ledge via yet another bulge.

4. -m (-) Finish by climbing diagonally L to meet syrinx final pitch and finish up that or alternatively wander off to the right.

One of the Mount's best waterfalls after an extended period of rain.

Start: Deep in the back of the grotto beside a pile of skeleton bones.

Another early climb. This one is supposedly better than it looks.

Start: About 7m R of 'Boomer'.

1. 23m (14) Up groove, then bridge scrubby chimney. Belay as for 'Boomer'.

2. 18m (14) Finish up the RH crack past a few dodgy blocks at the beginning. Descend as for 'Boomer'.

About 3m right of the far left edge of DR Pinnacle. Move up and right to bulging small overhang. Up and over this then slightly back left across cloud princess like lovely lumps. Straight up to top.

Directly behind Garden Gnome some 10 metres around the corner. Short steep line to a series of scoops that look like buttons. Rap off Garden Gnome chains.

4 metres right of Buttons. Tricky climbing up black stained wall into small sentry box. Out to right side of box and head up arête of pinnacle.

Nicer than the sentry-box start and no harder! Fingery wall midway between Black Box and Howling moving slightly left to join the original climb at about 6m.

Start on ledge opposite Virginia on the Pharos. Up the cracks, veering left through blocky roof. Then traverse left past the giant chock stone bridge, and up to the anchor on Spasm in a Chasm. Rap off Spasm’s Anchor back to the belay ledge.

An excellent climb tiptoeing its way up the back wall with lashing of exposure. Provides some relief from the sun until late afternoon.

Start: Start on a ledge down low on the left where an obvious ramp leads up right.

1. 30m (10) Following the ramp to its end, then left to big ledge.

2. 30m (14) Up short corner on the right, old peg (back it up), then tend right up cracks to base of chimney. Near the top there are a couple of options but the best is an unlikely step right and up the face.

3. 18m (13) Up chimney to roof, then chimney back out through roof to DBB.

Start on the south side of The Pharos, down right of Gunk In The Pimms, at the base of the gullybetweene Uncle Charlie and The Pharos. Up diagonal corner on arête to ledge then left and finish up Gunk in the Pimms.

Up crack for 7 metres, step left and go up to and over high roofline.

Start: Start at crack 20 metres left of "Vanoise".

Start at chimney-cleft 10 metres right of "Vanoise". Up line. At small overhang step onto right arete and up steep wall. Abseil as for Agent Orange.

The wall right of Sombrero has been dubbed Treasure Island - I have my doubts. Climb the slab and steep wall midway between Sombrero and South Pacific. Continue easily, then finish steeply up the centre of the headwall left of South Pacific.

A few metres left of Lou Will be Pissed are two flake lines. This is the right one. Not the best routes in the world but not really any worse than the other route routes on the wall.

A nice corner-crack behind tree leading directly to the foot of Squirrel & Baker's Delight. If only doing this climb, belay on the first ledge and walk off left.

Hard to justify this one; essentially an indirect version of Hendor Direct Finish a quarter of a century later.

1. 18m Climb past right side of the massive chockstone (original start of Hendor'. Belay just below obvious orange cave.

2. 20m Climb past left side of the orange cave, then step delicately right to diagonal crack. Up this then traverse right and finish up right side of the wall.

Start just to the right of the wide crack between Bland and Boy's Own. After the bulge at the shrub, immediately step left and traverse across delicate face through Bland before pulling through lip and up to rap station for In Lemon Butter.

Hand crack 12 metres left of "Trampled Underfoot".

Seam 1-2 metres right of 'Earthly Pleasures'.

Crack through bulge just right of Lusts Of The Flesh.

Dedicated to John Shaw Neilson, Australia's finest lyric poet. From the top of this climb much of Neilson's country is spread out in clear view to the northwest. Fairly good climbing though the rock low on the second pitch is not the best. Worth a go if you're tired of Bard and all the Mount's other classics.

Start: Start L of 'Aphrodite' (itself not written up!).

1. 45m (14) Climb the seams straight up the middle of the smooth wall left of 'Aphrodite'. Belay on a good ledge level with the start of the second pitch.

2. 45m (12) Traverse into 'The Slot' and follow the corner line up the right wall, curving right past an orange overhang onto the front of the face. Continue up delightful smooth wall to belay about 3m below a triangular roof.

3. 20m (12) Up vague prow just right of the triangular roof.

4. 15m (12) Up a few moves then pull through overhang on front right of the summit block.

Protection is generally reasonable but pitch 2 is sparsely protected.

Start below the right-leaning flake that leads into the chimney marking the left edge of the 'Left Watchtower Face'.

1. 24m (8) Up and over right-leaning crack at 5 metres and continue to juggy ground. Belay on right arete.

2. 30m (13) Step right onto main face and climb diagonally right on clean rock past 2 bolts and belay at third bolt.

3. 32m (14) Traverse right and go up to big ledge below Siren's corner.

4. 50m (13) Go up Siren's corner for about 25 metres then traverse right along weakness to bolt, or climb diagonally right to the same point. Either belay at the bolt (bad idea) or climb over horizontal breaks then up right to good ledge. Note that originally this pitch traversed from the bolt over to what is now 'Antigone'.

5. 35m (12) Go right along ledge to left-leading diagonal crack that leads up through the summit roof.

Slabs and awkward cracks provide a good outing. Start as for Watchtower Crack.

1. 25m (12) Pitch 1 of Watchtower Crack.

2. 25m (13) Up dark-coloured face heading slightly right to flake sweeping to right. Step right with difficulty onto long ledge leading right. Walk right to ring bolts. An awkward pitch.

3. 10m (14) Move off right end of ledge and climb poorly protected face to next ledge (bolts and chain).

4. 25m (14) Long flake on right with tricky finish to ledge.

5. 30m (12) From right end of ledge, head up wall and finish just right of little gully.

A nice pitch that can be done as a direct start to Salamander or as a climb in its own right.

As for Gecko (14) to the rap chains then follow Salamander to the top.

More great slabbing. Start 8 metres right of Brolga, directly below a thin crack that doesn't quite reach the ground.

1. 27m (13) Go up on the left and move right into the weakness. Up weakness then face to ledge, just left of some swordgrass.

2. 46m (14) Up the wall past a bolt for 30 metres to the bulge. Pass this and find a semi-hanging belay above. People used to belay below the bulge but the anchors were poor.

3. 17m (6) Easily up.

The first of a couple of nondescript routes up the vast moss gardens of the right Watchtower. Start 5 metres right of The Mantle at a clean seam.

1. 27m (14) Up seam then step right to right-facing flake/overlap. Up on left sde of this to ledge.

2. 20m (14) Up diagonally right to flake and clump of spear grass at 8 metres. Above left are two horizontal overlaps on bulge in wall. Pass these on the left, then back up right to good anchors. The bulge can be climbed direct at grade 20 with poor protection (Keith Egerton, Jane Wilkinson 1984).

3. 48m (12) Straight up.

Another mossy filler. Start 8 metres right of Lounge Lizard on cleanish rock.

1. 25m (14) Left past two holes near ground. step right an wander up to the base of a short corner (Chameleon).

2. 50m (14) Up corner, over bulge and up.

3. 10m (-) Up

Another just OK route wandering its way up the moss. Superseded by Chameleon Connection.

This route combines the best bits of Chameleon and Joyride as well as improving the first pitch of Chameleon. Start 25 metres right of Brolga at a short seam through a bulge, a few metres left of the bolted bulge of Omaha Beach.

1. 27m (14) Up technical seam then straight up mossy, easy ground to left end of good ledge.

2. 22m (13) Step left and through steepening then straight up to little horizontal break level with terrace on right. Traverse right and belay below small, right-facing corner at left side of terrace.

3. 39m (13) Corner and wall to big ledge.

4. 18m (10) Move right and up two short walls then easy scramble off right.

The right-hand of the 3 prominent crack-lines starts with a character-building thrutch. Most people will opt to do the Right-Hand Variant or Cheshire Cat instead but it could be worth testing your technique on this.

A good, fairly direct, way of doing Manx without the thrutching. Start at the diagonal crack 1m R of Manx.

Bushy, mossy rock to start. Start 4m R of bent-over old tree.

Pleasant crack 3 metres right of 'Bolero'.

Another pleasant ramble.

Start: At toe of buttress just left of "Beau Geste"

1. 35m (-) Follow prominent line until it fizzles out. Step right and up to good ledge. This pitch has also been climbed slightly to the left.

2. 25m (-) Up front right side of buttress, over overhang and nice wall then up next wall past ironstone jugs to spacious upper ledge. The first two pitches have been climbed as one but rope-drag is a problem.

3. 25m (14) Climb prominent crack, curving right to arete. Climb arete and continue easily. Belay near top of major left-leading diagonal.

4. 20m (-) Broken corner to big ledge.

5. 30m (-) Top pitch of "Beau Geste"

Climb middle of face right of 'Goonkachoong'.

Start: 4 metres left of 'The Shiralee'.

1. 20m (14) Straight up then step left to gain ramp leading diagonally right.

2. 30m (14) Step left and climb bulging groove on good rock.

The Beatuitiful Possiblities of the Northern Group! Ok, maybe not quite, but it is a delicate line up the front of a buttress. Gear is fiddly. Up seam right of Cold Episode, continue up front of buttress and through overlap at top. Traverse to anchor on Banana Expert

Up wall left of easy crack, past 2 bolts and small bulge. Take a 2 RP.