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Climb orange nose on right. Start at the first belay of Hurricane Lamp Cracks.

Left line on little wall 15 metres down and left of the start of 'Lamplighter'. Has been done on trad, now has two bolts and maybe you clip the first bolt of Raptures of the Steep

Climb the 1st pitch of Second Coming until you encounter a hanging nose about 4m shy of the belay. Step left and boulder into a tiny corner before moving up to pass a small overlap which can be climbed direct or on its left. Slabby moves follow before a final easy crack leads to the anchors for open season. 'Small' RP's and small cams protect the moves above Second Coming however placing them on lead is a tad pokey and pumpy - you have been warned!

Hopelessly contrived even though it's actually a direct version of The Second Coming P1. There's logic to it but in practice it's all too close to both Second Coming and Kingdom Come.

Climb Second Coming until the move L on to the infamous mantle bulge. Instead go straight up to the Judgement Day traverse. From there, continue straight up, trying very hard not to go L into Second Coming, or R into Kingdom Come until you meet the final R-wards traverse of Second Coming P1. Cross this and head straight up through another steep section to easier ground near Lamplighter P3.

This and Come Again could easily be linked together into a (scary) route that is more independent and logical than either.

A complex route up a great bit of rock.

Start: Start as for "Kingdom come".

1. 25m (22) Up "Kingdom Come" until able to gain the right-leading diagonal which is followed into "Judgement Day" and so to ledge.

2. 30m (23) Traverse left across smooth wall to twin seams, then run it out up to ledge. Step right over bulge at a thin crack then traverse left to the arete and up into the orange corner. Exit left then up.

A baffling crux combined with gut-wrenching exposure. Start from the top of the second pitch of "Trojan".

Face 3 metres left of the seam of "I Can't Breathe" to undercling, then up and right to finish up "I Can't Breathe".

Start at big jug down left of 'Anatadaephobia' (place a couple of wires in this for protection). Up to horizontal break

Steep and gymnastic good rock good gear.

Start: Start as for "Flights of Fancy", clip the first bolt stepping off a big boulder to gain the horizontal break leading left with vague pockets, monkey up to second bolt and good jug, straight up to more gear before moving back right to join FOF then head back left and then up to the top, traversing right along a ledge to gain anchors

Not a popular pasttime. Climbing looks good but it's squeezed in. Probably bold like most of Roland's routes.

Bottomless right-facing corner then bulge between Vapour Trail and Huey.

Arete left of Spelbinder, starting from right.

Seam right of 'Chemistry Class' (crux), step left and go up wall of big bums, trending right.

Inspired route naming.

Start 10m up L from 'Today'.

Right past PR then crack.

Hard to get good gear and you're close to a groundfall for some time. Start 3 metres left of Turquoise at short flake. From top of short flake some tricky moves lead to left-leading diagonal.

An attractive wall but hard to protect and has easier unprotected section. Start as for Into The Lipstick. Climb flake and straight up bulging wall above to a ledge. Continue up easier, unprotected wall on left to join Turquoise near top.

The 23 variant described in Mentz and Tempest (2016). Instead of starting up White Heat head up the arete to the right.

A graceful flake on beautiful, slick orange rock. Be careful with gear placement as a couple of people have hit the ground after stripping all of their pieces after the fixed gear. Double ropes would help to reduce the effect of the change of rope direction. Also, the peg is considered dodgy. Bridge up chimney to bolt then right past peg and up flake and pumpy wall. Finish at lower-off for In Lemon Butter.

Thin, reachy and run-out. Face 3 metres right of In Lemon Butter with a step right in the middle.

Start at middle of buttress right of wide crack just right of Bland. Middle of buttress to tiny corner and overlap. Finish straight up.

Fiddly gear. You have to love flaring RP placements. Go up just right of the left arete of the main gully and past a grey snout. At top bulge go left, right or mantle direct on small ledge (that should exhaust all options).

Up incipient crack 2 metres right of Tomorrow. Reach right to pass bulge, veering left at the top.

"Milk blood to keep from running out". Great crack which will take as much gear as you can hang around to place. Start at the clean finger crack 2 metres right of Pattern Juggler and 10 metres below the boulder-choke. Crack until it runs out, step left and struggle up finishing slot.

A really good alternative to the finishing slot on Milk Blood. Step right at the top of the initial crack and up the unlikely face.

Start as for No Room For Mistakes and hand traverse right into overhung line past piton.

A "convenient bundle of fun" taking in bits of a few other routes.

Start: Normally started as for "Wishful Thinking" but can also be started from the base of "Trampled Underfoot", below a fixed hange a few metres right of that climb.

From gully, pull onto wall and up vertical crack to major horizontal. Clip FH then hard moves up and right past another FH. Onwards past some natural gear and another bolt up higher.

Superb, intricate and sustained climbing. Originally done as two pitches but best done in a single pitch.

Start at the R-facing corner 2 metres right of "Grand Central".

Up the right-facing corner to ledge. From the ledge, delicately move over bulge. Clip bolt and zoom through a peg (natural pros available) to an easier ground. Stay R of the crack to avoid loose rock.

... a good crack too.

Bridge up the chimney right of Fever Pitch and pull onto the wall below a short crack. Steeply up crack to good holds. More hard moves lead up to and around flake, then continue up crack and face.

The overhanging, cracked arete up the gully from Lunatic and across gully north of "Flash Gordon".

Cut loose on big block about 2 metres right of 'The Last Resort'. Pass right end of small cave and go straight up to finish just left of arete.

Start: Start 2 metres left of 'Future Past'

Wonderful sustained and steep. A megaclassic.

Start about 10m right of 'Blue Hawaii' and 2m left of 'Yesterday'.

Follow an inverted staircase flake into a hanging gully. Step R and continue pass two FHs along the weakness to the overlap (peg). Crank through the steeper section on jugs to the double ring bolt anchor.

Start on the large LH jug, traverse the lip and break anti-clockwise.

Crank up via corner.

From block up arete committing to finish

Steep crack 4 metres right of 'Furphy' and left of gully.

Follow 'Tiptoe Corner' to crack left of Next Of Kin. Pull over bulge, heading left to break. Above small roof, climb straight up face.

Follow the chimney of 'Tiptoe Corner' for 15 metres and step onto the face at the first of two diagonal cracks. Up right to below flakes, then straight up these, exiting right over roof.

Start left of arch and move up and right to finish up grey streak to 'Bossy Mothers' anchor.

Up short seam 5 metres right of Wall Of The Afternoon Sun. Hard moves lead past a peg runner (if it's still there). Traverse left 2 metres and over bulge to flake. Up then left to first belay of WOTAS.

Start: Not a bad line but doesn't see much traffic.

Climbs the wall immediately R of Pumping. Two cruxy sections. The first few metres as for Watchtower Crack. Then step up and across onto the left wall to the obvious 'letterbox' slot (cam), tricky past bolt then up easy diagonal crack for a couple of body-lengths. Step L and finish directly up grey face past another bolt to a small ledge near the arete. Double rings.

Ascends the appealing 8m-wide wall which is left of Watchtower Crack and at right angles to the main slabs. P2&3 are both good. If you want a tougher outing, and/or a line which stays entirely on this slim face, start up Pumping and finish up Xenomorph for pitches of 24, 20, 23 and 26. The recent addition of Golden Handshake offers an even more consistent way to start, by continuing past the anchor of that route up the thin diagonal crack just R of the arete, to join Stumpy Tail part way up pitch 2.

1. 33m (12) Take Watchtower Crack (or Pumping, or Flamingo) to large ledge.

2. 20m (20) L up orange face past FH. Join diagonal crack to small ledge, then follow ramp to pedestal. Step up L onto short delicate face, then L to good belay cave on arete.

3. 10m (23) Up flake then over the L end of the roof. Traverse R past FH to big undercling move, then some steep moves to another good belay ledge on arete.

4. 50m (18) Step up R onto higher ledge, then the reachy lichenous face 3-4m L of Watchtower Crack (small-med cams). Slab easily up L until forced around the arete onto the Arachnus face for the last 20m.

Start up little overhang directly in front of LH tree. Up drifting L past 2 bolts then straight up past small cams and slightly right to finish at lower off. Its possible to traverse off into the moss after the first piece after the bolts, but it's better to finish direct. Two yellow Aliens or equivalent are very handy. Might be 23. Unless you're short, in which case it might be 26.

Link up. Start up Walking Simulator, hard move R over the bulge to join Amok and finish up it. Just toproped, while the climbing is good I'm not sure it's worth another bolt. Mostly did it for the name.

Wildy pumpy. Mostly cams, strangely most of them seem to be green camalot size... but save one for the topout. Chains to left or up and right.

Start: Start on left side of Amok wall behind two native pines.

Start as for Amok till the first break at about 6m (where it gets steep). Move R 1m and up 2m to a jug. A long move R off this gives a hidden pocket. Up past a bolt to the top and chains.

Originally graded 18 without grinning. Really nice rock and climbing. Despite being soloed it has gear, mostly small cams (not available in '83!). Chain on top.

The name says it all.

Dramatic architecture. Some people find this sleazy and gross, some find it interesting and funky.. feeling lucky? Start 5m R of the conifer.

A good warm-up for the steep stuff. This used to start beneath the "Beware of this Block" block and undercling it (!), but start to the right instead.

Start just left of overhang, 4m R of Practical Cats. Up past bolt to short crack then horizontal break, being careful not to fall off getting to crack. Continue up wall slightly left past big pockets and back up rightish to top. Finish at Rap anchor. A #5 cam is not needed as stated in the latest guide, in fact there is nowhere to put it.

A fun little roof. The 'Pilot Error' of Kitten Wall. In a little cave below 'Cadence'

A sustained and technical traverse under the ceiling, starting from the lefthand end of the wall. Can be approached via 'Cadence' as well.

Start: Start at the blocky corner marking the left end of the smooth orange wall.

1. 20m (22) Up corner to roof and traverse right with increasing difficulty to a small stance.

2. 35m (23) Continue right with even greater difficulty to obvious break in roof. Over and up to slings or easily to rap anchor above Celluloid heroes.

Start as for Bugalugs just right of Bolero through pockets to letterbox then straight up the wall with good protection in horizontals.

Up through pockets right of Bolero then move right and climb shallow orange corner to rooflet.

Face immediately left of the arete.

Right arete of the campsite face.

Some bouldery moves. There's a good plunge if you miss the final lunge.

Start: Start just right of "Henry Bolte"

Line of bolts to a lower-off right of "Barbed". Feel like it climbs a bit contrived by where the bolt placements are, but it's a fun little warm up for the main events up the hill. A cam is good for the top if you scare easily

Up for 2 metres then traverse right to pockets and up brushed wall to ledge. Rap as for "Gurtle Tier".

Start: Start 3 metres right of "Barbed" at a short, steep flake.

Maybe 20m below Barbed and 10m up from the Clown a doglegged thin crack doesn't reach the ground. Up seam in grey slab until desperately thin moves gain crack. Rap anchor. Gear is rather sketchy.

The diagonal crack leading left into 'Rosshalde' is slick and fiddly to protect but good fun higher up.

1. 15m (23) Take the diagonal crack into 'Rosshalde' and belay under the roof.

2. 20m (21) Up to roof, traverse out right to Model Phantom and up steep face.

Nice rock and good climbing but it's not worth doing as the other routes are far more logical lines. Start up 'Mysteries' diagonal, when you reach 'Blue Eyed and Blond' follow it up and right, then keep traversing right. Up higher go right and left a few more times to ensure you've got the most out of the wall, then traverse with your hands on the top and downclimb Rosshalde.

Orange arête right of Navity past 2 fixed hangers then continue direct up overhung arête on trad to finish at anchors on NDS. Vital #5 wire after 2nd bolt.

A better direct.

Go straight up from start of Dr Paul.

A scary direct start to Golden Echo. Looks worthless but in fact has a fascinating crux section.

Poorly protected start. Douglas doesn't mind at all if someone puts 2 bolts in the start.

Start: Start about 2m R of 'Kachoong'.

Very good and very strenuous.

Won't make many "best of" lists but the climbing is surprisingly good. Aside from the off chance of toppling 40m down the gully, it's more like a highball boulder problem.

Start up Cellular Destruction, but instead of traversing right, continue up the steep overhanging crack to top out 3m left of the finish of Cellular Destruction.

From the big chalked plate at the top of the gully, move up to disappointing holds from where key gear needs to be placed, then right and up to hard (or is it ?) top-out.

Only 22 if top roped or gear is in place already

Climbs the inverted staircase just left of "A Taste of Honey" and is a superb companion route to it. Dave Jones used to solo this regularly as a warm up for the harder routes in this gully

Starts at a heavily chalked ledge low in the gully. Traverse R about 4 metres to a fixed wire before heading up on flat holds to the large break of Belly Flop. Traverse R to just before the arete, then up to the next break just below the first bolt of "You're Terminated" (virtually impossible to clip on this route). Now traverse with difficulty R around the arete to easier ground.

Finish up the lovely grade 10 headwall or backjump if you don't suffer from summit fever.

For gear, virtually every cam ever made could be placed at some point in this route, but a #0.3BD protects the crux on the arete nicely.

Start just left of "A Taste of Honey Direct Start" at the bottom of the gully. Up overhanging crack (this was Kim Carrigan's "Cavities" from 1984) through bulge and off-width to a large grey and white ledge.

Continue more easily up corner to High Dive's initial traverse (thread runner) and step off left to finish. Given that the grade for the first half was 24, this may be quite solid at 23.

It'll be too late once you're at grips with this.

The dominant line on the wall is sustained and has just enough small but good protection on the difficult start - which is the crux.

Rings above this also service Tangent.

Scary up the shallow corner and thin wall to join PB

Tangent direct. Reach problem 3 metres right of start of Tangent. Finish direct through the roof as for Angles Up.

'Cos it's next to "The Verge". Gets into some pretty sick territory. Worth doing if you're in the area.

The second pitch (an exciting roof) can also be climbed as a good second pitch for "The Verge".

1. Start up 'The Verge', but instead of stepping right into the scoop ,go straight up through the thin bulge passing a fixed wire on your left. , keep heading up easy orange face to bulge passing a FH to jugs out right and up to break, From there, power straight up the thin bouldery face and onto easy ground up to a high chain rap anchor.

2. The second pitch starts several meters to the right of the chain anchors, (trad anchor available) below an orange column with a FH. Up this to a white scoop under the roof FH. Up and out left along the pumpy lip traverse passing a FH. then over the lip and up to chain rap anchor. Rappel is 30 + m ! FA Robert Mudie & Muki Woods Alt

Another inspiring route name.

1. 15m (23) Middle of bulging wall right of Vandal's second pitch and just left of the final bit of 'Swallows and Amazons'.

2. 15m (23) Swing onto smooth left wall of 'Vandal', climbing midway between that climb and Puzzlin' Evidence.

Gear is fiddly, take slings for jugs. You can go L above the roof into a small corner, or just straight up. Start on left arete of gully, right of the start of Vandal. Trend right up face, through bulge, then left and up steep wall.

Ramp as for Opening then straight up groove to break. Step left and take thin crack through bulge right of Pick And Lose.

Right arete of Intrepid Gully. Now has a new glue-in U-bolt which requires stick-clipping. The Leasehold rap chains are just to your right on top.

Start just left of enormous conifer and just right of the rock step down and right from Hum. Technical moves lead to a delicate flake. The old carrot bolt, although poking out attractively, has been replaced. Finish at lower off where the nest of viper like rap slings once lurked ready to strike.

Start from the top of pitch 1 of Dante's Inferno. Line left of the arete of Shaky Town, which is just left of the pitch 2 flake of Dante's Inferno.

Knee pad recommended, it has been known to tear pants.

Very poor protection.

Coming in from left, gain arete left of the Dante's Inferno's 2nd pitch flake.

Precision climbing. Take some micro cams. The wall L of Short Cut, starting from the lower off / belay anchors on Cut Short. Up the wall, then up R-wards past 2 BRs and straight up the up the wall to finish at the lower-off rings.

A serious continuation up the wall beyond 'Cut Short'. From ledge climb short sickle and press on after it stops.