Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Popularité | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Victoria North West Grampians Halls Gap Area South-East Mt Difficult Range The Watchtower | |||||
23 | ★ Boschanova
The line of fixed hangers 1.5m right of Happy Jack. FA: Kevin l | 15m, 5 | |||
23 | ★ Mr Splat
Up slabby shallow groove 10m R of the Flying Buttress detached pillar. Finish steeply up and slightly R. Rebolted Safer Cliffs with FAs consultation. FA: Mike Law & Chris Baxter, 1991 | 30m, 7 | |||
23 | ★★ KY Valley Direct
Up KY Valley step L and directly up the wall to the same lower off as Mr Splat. Original route steps R and up crack to the top. FA: MattB | 8 | |||
23 | ★ KY Valley
Start 3m R of Mr Splat. Climb past 4 bolts and finish up crack on R. Up this to lower off on the L. Rebolted Safer Cliffs with FAs consultation. FA: Mike Law & Stephen Hamilton, 1991 | 30m, 4 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians South-Eastern Grampians Seven Dials Area The First Dial | |||||
23 | Addendum
| 18m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians South-Eastern Grampians Seven Dials Area The Second Dial | |||||
23 | (Unnamed 1)
| 35m | |||
23 | (Unnamed 2)
| 35m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians South-Eastern Grampians Seven Dials Area The Fourth Dial | |||||
23 | False Hope
| 25m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians South-Eastern Grampians Redmans Bluff Northern Cliff | |||||
23 | Shaken, Not Stirred
Fun steep sport Start: Starts 1m left of 'Thunderball' at corner. (This is about 5-7m left of Falkenhorst, which has an unusual reverse "S" marked in the rock at waist height). There are some old bolts at chest height between these routes which was the old bivvy. FA: Josef Goding & Achim Gross, 2008 | 23m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians South-Eastern Grampians North-West Serra Range Gallery Creek | |||||
23 | ★★ Miracle Mile
Another classic. Sustained. Wall left of Love At First Bight (two BRs). Hard step right to BR on Love at First Bight. Veer up left. FA: Glenn Tempest & Michael Hampton, 1992 | 20m, 3 | |||
23 | Lipstick Guanacos
Good face-climbing. From 1m right of Icy Red (Featherwedge Wall), up (two BRs). Right and up crack until it ends. Face, then bulge (BR). Finish just right of major crack. FA: Geoff Butcher, 1992 | 48m, 3 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians South-Eastern Grampians North-West Serra Range Dreamtime Wall | |||||
23 | ★ Unhappy Slapper
A direct start to NDW. 3 new bolts, then joins NDW at it's 5th bolt. FA: Michael O'Reilly, 12 Mars 2016 | 26m, 7 | |||
23 | ★ Caffeine Hallucination
| 23m | |||
23 | ★★ Anthony Pattison "The Birthday Barrista" Closed Project
THIS IS STILL A CLOSED PROJECT. Take 16 quickdraws. Steep side pulling underclinging goodness. Sustained and wonderful. Start: Starts around 30m below and right of "Thor" at a prominent crack just left of the steep blunt orange arete.(about 10-15m down and left of "The Perfect Extraction") Équip.: Josef Goding equipped this route as a present to one of his best mates. FA: Anthony Pattison (TBC), 2000 | 23m, 16 | |||
23 | ★ The Stolen Generation
Great quality sustained and interesting. Some steep face climbing. A few small loose bits will probably come off in time, but will clean up with a little traffic to be fantastic. Start: Starts about 5m right of 'Gulgurn Manja'. FA: Josef Goding, 2009 | 39m, 18 | |||
23 | ★ Soz Mate
Technical climbing 1.5m left of Tangent. Climbs the thin face past 5 FHs. FA: Michael OReilly & Dave Scarlett, Mars 2018 | 15m, 5 | |||
23 | ★ Regrets
Straight up the steepest section of this wall through two bulges. Starts at the ake 3m right of Back in Black (and 1m right of Treaty.) Balance across right into the line at the rst FH and then climb directly up the line through two bulges. Nice compression moves on immaculate rock at the top. Once you gain the small ledge system, climb easily up and left to the rst FH on Free Passage and traverse left to the rap anchors above Back in Black P1. (8 bolts) FA: Michael O'Reilly, 2017 | 20m | |||
23 | ★★ Witana Wall
Start: Superb clean wall between 'Quinkan' and 'Bunjil'. Seriously low on good gear however. FA: Steve Monks & Dave Mudie, 1988 | 55m | |||
23 | ★★ Gold Member
Very shagadelic baby, yeah! Climb Rainbow Serpent up to just under the roof then traverse left. Blast through the inviting looking roof crack then continue slightly left and up slab to join back into Rainbow Serpent at ledge. Clip a few bolts to gain Rainbow Serpent loweroffs. 14 Draws and a single rack should get you to the chains. FA: Adam Straw, 8 Sept 2018 | 35m | |||
23 | ★ Morning Glory Direct Start
Starts about 4-5m left of Rainbow Serpent on the left side of an orange scoop. P1 (35m, 23): Move left past first bolt onto front of the buttress then up past another bolt to easier ground. Up to the roof and follow the line awkwardly around the left edge. Belay in the line at a reasonable ledge. P2 (30m, 17): The crack up centre of the buttress, as for Morning Glory. FA: Kevin Lindorff, 2009 | 20m, 2 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians South-Eastern Grampians Mt Abrupt The Cheesecake | |||||
23 | ★ Rings, RPs, Chalk & Cheese
Straight up centre of face, below RB, 2m left of 'Old English'. Take a few RPs. One RB at start, to rap off DRBs on the ledge. Doubled 50m rope reaches the ground. FA: Ramon Francis & Dalen Court, 1998 | 25m, 1 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians South-Eastern Grampians Mt Abrupt Bernard's Boulders Jimmy's Bloc | |||||
V3 | ★★ Leather Bound Pound
Sit start on nice jug feature near fire pit. Move up through crimps and pinches in nice features rock. FA: Pommie Ian | 5m | |||
V3 | ★★ Leather Bound Pound Variant
An afterthought, but probably a better start. Sit start low in giant sloping rail, traverse right into featured crimps and up original Leather Bound Pound finish. FA: James Stephens | 5m | |||
V4 | ★ World of Tights
Same start as Leather Bound Pound, though head left through sloping jug feature and finish up crack with good holds. FA: Louis Godsell | 5m | |||
V3 | ★ Coffee and Cops
Start with left on jug in cave, move left into side pull. Compress/squeeze your way up the arete till gaining ledge. FA: James Stephens | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ The Hair Manny!
Start as of "He Wants My Hair Bernard" and continue traversing through rising lip, till you reach good holds. FA: Goshen Watts | 5m | |||
V3 | Wigwams
Start just left of History of Screaming on giant undercling, move up on sharp pockets then left via slopey holds, finishing on the ramp. FA: Jimmy, 2015 | 4m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians South-Eastern Grampians Mt Abrupt Trackside Boulders | |||||
V4 | ★ Compression Depression
3 burly moves to a interesting top out. Start with an undercling next to the giant flake and a RH on sloper, slap and squeeze your way up the arete. Great fun. (Boulder is located right on the walking track approx 200 metres into the trail) | ||||
Victoria North West Grampians South-Eastern Grampians The Piccaninny | |||||
V3 | ★★ The Frisbee Flop
Start on the large bloc in the seam, find small feet, and throw or use small crimps to gain large jugs and literally flop (mantle) over to the small ledge. Potential to extend from lower start. FA: J Stephens, 2014 | 3m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Eureka Area Spanish Galleon | |||||
23 | ★ Pirate Life
Crack and right arete. Start just right of Four on the Floor, up pocket crack to good stance on 'nose' of arete. Sail up arete on slopers and side pulls, step left at last bolt (crux), then back right to lower off NOTE (July 2016) - 2 x incorrectly placed / additional bolts on arete will be removed Équip.: Steve Holloway FA: Steve Holloway & K.J. Whitt, 27 Mars 2016 | 26m, 9 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Eureka Area Eureka Wall | |||||
23 | ★★ Diminishing Returns (Top Half)
Start as for Darwin's Theory for 10m then blast straight up orange wall past very spaced bolts and finish up grey headwall. FA: Kent Paterson, 2012 | 30m, 5 | |||
23 | Darwin's Theory pitch 3
Natural selection in action: nobody does this. Start: Start at the rap anchor above Pythagoras' Theorem. FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1991 | 10m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Eureka Area Clean Cut Walls | |||||
23 | ★★ Sea Within A Sea
The streaked wall right of Highly Evolved. Start up grey slab. WARNING - Be aware of potential ledge fall potential, do not give soft catches FA: Kent Paterson & Andrew Anderson | 30m, 11 | |||
23 | ★★ Trouble Cut
On Upper Tier. Orange wall left of grey seam. Has chain with krab on second bolt. FA: Kent Paterson, 2014 | 14m, 7 | |||
23 | ★ Two Birdies
Up crack to cool arete. The crux is cryptic. FA: Kent Paterson & adam demmert, 2014 | 20m, 10 | |||
23 | ★ Deadly Rhythm
...of the production line. Starts as LP then busts left up prow FA: Kent Paterson, 2014 | 15m, 10 | |||
23 | ★★ Gerbil's Route
Starts on far right hand end of the Upper Tier of Clean Cuts. Great flake line that faces Eureka.WARNING : Belayer and climber please pay close attention to nearby wall, as it gets very close at one point FA: Kent Paterson & adam demmert, 2014 | 20m, 12 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Eureka Area The Red Sail | |||||
23 | ★★★ Sailing Away
The spectacular right arete. FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1991 | 45m, 3 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Eureka Area Weirs Creek West Side | |||||
23 | ★★ Pump Action
Stick clip first bolt. Undercut start (as for Silencer and 3 minute Rule), up RH short corner for a few moves, then out left on small holds along horizontal break between 3rd and 4th bolt, hard move up to short right leaning flake (crux). Up wall trending left at top to join Me and My Gun for last bolt and lower off. Best to use long draws for third and fourth bolts. FA: Steve Holloway, Matt Johnston, Z D Rocha & Anthony Pattison, 13 Sept 2014 | 20m, 9 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Eureka Area Weirs Creek | |||||
23 | ★★ Smoky and the Banditos LHV
Start up 'Smoky and the Banditos' until 4th RB then go left to fixed hangers on arete. | 20m, 9 | |||
23 | ★★ Barefoot and Poignant
Now completely superseded. FA: Alex Trnovsky & Hobbsy, 2011 | 20m, 10 | |||
23 | ★★ Fairy Footsteps
Now finishes where climbs should. Start in the same place as 'Widow of Opportunity'. Follow the crack line straight up and continue up the wall when it fades. From the double rings head up and right past two more bolts to the anchors in the alcove. FA: Alex Trnovsky & Andrew Clements, Mars 2016 | 28m, 12 | |||
23 | ★ Fairies and Blutterfies
Next line up right of 'Barefoot And Poignant' starting with some beautiful pockets. I think it is general consensus that this is not 24. If you want a 24 version of this climb you have to climb, as the FA, 'the convulted crux out left at mid height while ignoring the obvious line'...Finishes in the little alcove, but can also be climbed to the anchors of LIB for extra contrived mileage. FA: Alex Trnovsky & Ben Weissner, 2013 | 20m, 9 | |||
23 | ★ Let it Burn!
Right of F&B. Start at base of corner, far right end of wall. Up to bottom of shallow closed corner, move left past single digit pocket, then up shallow pocketed flake system (crux) to jug, leftwards rising traverse on amazing jugs to finish up headwall and lower off FA: Steve Holloway & Paul Geil | 25m, 9 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Eureka Area Gondwanaland | |||||
23 | ★ Terra Incognita
Dramatic climbing up prow. Up right then left onto wall. Up past BR to short vertical base of the 'Thunder Crack' like line. Up this a few moves then left and up the crazy paving right of the arete to the top. FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1990 | 50m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Eureka Area The Lost World | |||||
23 | ★ Malcolm and Andy's New route
2m right of LBL,
FFA: Malcolm Matherson & Andy Schmutter, Nov. 2014 | 70m, 2, 2 | |||
23 | ★★★ Eau Rouge
Flake and steep orange wall right of Redline. 3 FHs and full rack required. Rap chain. Can get down with a 60m rope FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2009 | 32m, 3 | |||
23 | ★★ Lost in Antiquity
Start as for The Land that Time Forgot.
FFA: Malcolm Matheson & Adam Demmert, 31 Août 2014 | 40m, 2 | |||
23 | ★★ Temple of Doom
Takes the major black streak up the headwall left of Indiana Jones, with a very thin crux amongst some amazing moderate climbing on great rock. Straight up wall left of IJ to follow left leading diagonal line to it's end. Up overhanging wall to grey slab where the holds (and gear) appear to run out. Thin moves (and small wires) lead to relief at the overlap. If you survived the prehistoric birds, jug it out over final roof and up to belay. FA: Goshen Watts & Dick Lodge, 21 Nov. 2015 | 50m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Mt Fox Area Jungle Gym | |||||
23 | Jungle Juice
Climb the flake crack, which rises up to the left, to a rounded, mossy exit. Start: Start 25 metres right of "Varicose Veins" below a tiny recessed wall with a roof above and a large conifer in front. FA: Simon Mentz & Ian Ravenscroft, 1989 | 8m | |||
23 | ★ Hang Me High
Blunt arete with 2 fixed hangers left of "The Bounty Hunter" ? which is where? FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2002 | 18m, 2 | |||
23 | Pussy Whipped Wuss
Start in the left-hand corner at the base of the main corner. Move right at overhang into main corner and continue to stance. Now crack in left wall past big block. FA: Glenn Tempest & Richard Smith, 1993 | 32m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Mt Fox Area Generation Gap | |||||
23 R | ★★ Cervantes Wall
Takes the smooth convex wall left of "Don Quixote", starting by the shady gum tree.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Steve Monks (alt) & Norm Booth, 1992 | 55m, 2, 1 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Mt Fox Area Muline Crag | |||||
23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams
A beautiful gobsmacking line. The manky old carrots at the start have now been placed with rings. A long stick-clip is required as the crux is the start. Start: Start 3m R of the base of the rock step separating the upper and lower tiers of the crag. FA: Keith Lockwood, Malcolm Matheson & Norm Booth, 1991 | 25m, 2 | |||
23 | ★ Nothing Lasts Forever
Short punchy route on left of cave. 'Nowra' like! FA: Kent Paterson, 2010 | 8m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Mt Fox Area Doritos Wall | |||||
23 | ★ Chinese Knockoff (Link-Up)
Notable as its the easiest sport route up the cliff. Do the first pitch of China Fingers. After this do a run out traverse into the fantastic headwall of Nothing Gets Crossed Out. Be careful of rope length when lowering. Maybe 24? FA: Kent Paterson, 2018 | 50m, 2 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Mt Fox Area Hollywood Bowl | |||||
23 R | ★★ Wings of Desire
A high-quality route. Start 15m R of Bubbles of Fantasy. 1) 25m (18) Up large L-facing corner then main wall, passing a small R-facing corner. At its top, step L, then diagonally R to orange sickle. Up jugs and R-facing corner to belay on ledge. 2) 25m (crux) L-facing corner to roof, boldly through this (#3.5 cam at lip), then up and diagonally L to rest on arete (fixed wire). Up, step L and up wall, finishing through bulge on L. FA: Louise Shepherd & Tim Day (alt), 1991 | 55m | |||
23 | The Unbelievable Truth
Step up R off block (RPs), then up (BR, FH), to join 'The Pillow Book' at base of crescent. Step R and up R side of arête (BR) to top. FA: Wade Stevens & Tim Day, 1996 | 24m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering 20th Century Blocks | |||||
V4 | ★ Archimedes' Mirror
| 5m | |||
V3 | Shooting Scoops
| 5m | |||
V4 | Extreme Close Up
| ||||
V3 | Tap Dance Solo
| ||||
V3 | Kevin Bacon
| 7m | |||
V3 | Charlton Heston
| ||||
V3 | ★★ Chuck Norris
| ||||
V4 | ★ Clint Eastwood
| 5m | |||
V4 | Constant Gardner
On rear side of Wall of Fame | ||||
V3 | Life Be In It
| ||||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Fox Boulders Cruising Boulder | |||||
V3 | ★ Stormy Weather
Stand start to the right of a large dirt pile (ants nest) . Head right to finish up Cruising. FA: Dick Lodge, 8 Oct. 2014 | ||||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Fox Boulders Angry Ant Bloc | |||||
V3 | ★★ Angry Ant...erson
Watch out for those ants. | 6m | |||
V3 | Anty Matter
| ||||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Fox Boulders Dave and Sophie's Wall | |||||
V3 | Mike's Arete
| ||||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Fox Boulders The Philosopher's Stone | |||||
V3 | ★★ Sophie's Choice
| ||||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Fox Boulders The Writers Block | |||||
V4 | ★★ No Country for Old Man
| ||||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Fox Boulders The Mental Block | |||||
V4 | ★★ Hippo Campus
| ||||
V3 | Believe At Will
| ||||
V3 | Thought Exerpimentation
| 10m | |||
V3 | ★ X Men
Low sit start matching horizontal incut rail right of arete/nose of Inclined P (left of tunnel under the Mental Block ledge). Move to very small crimp on lip of bulge then RH to the perfect quartz crimp. Mantle it out via better holds. | ||||
V3 | ★★ Inclined Precranium RHV
IPC start then diagonally right to mantle onto slab | ||||
V3 | Train of Thought
| ||||
V3 | Bitter Memories
| ||||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Mt Fox Area Mount Fox Bouldering Crimson Cave | |||||
V4 | ★ Simply Red
Climbs the rib line up, then right and up to two good holds just before the diagonal slash. | ||||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Mt Fox Area The Far Pavilion | |||||
23 | Siegeing Babylon
Nice face climbing to gain the central crack. Follow 'Far Horizons' to the 'impending block of doom'. Diagonally left up flakes in middle of wall until holds run out. Move L then up with trepidation to gain horizontal. Easily up central crack to belay on terrace. Roped traverse off R (10m). FA: Mark Rewi, Steve Holloway & Nicholas Kiraly (a couple of previous attempts succumbed to aid), 2006 | 50m | |||
23 | ★★★ The Cold War
Peter Mills and Nic Kiraly raved about this route for almost 2 weeks after repeating it. The words "Awesome", "stunning" and "mindblowing" could be heard repeatedly for the entire night after this ascent. God knows what Steve & Keith's friends had to endure! Needless to say it is sensational and a must do for solid grade 23 leaders, and can be done in one mega-pitch).
FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1989 | 60m, 2 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Red Rock Area Red Rock Pinnacles Pellant Pinnacle | |||||
23 | Sharon's Face (Project)
Needs bolts. Orange face and thin flake. FA: Top-roped Sharon George, 2004 | 8m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Red Rock Area Red Rock Pinnacles Espanol Pinnacle | |||||
23 | ★ Je Ne Parle Pas Français
Technical slabby crimpers. Starts 3m left of 'No Habla Espanol'. FA: Neil Monteith, 2007 | 14m | |||
23 | ★ Non Parlo Italiano
Short intense fun on great quality rock. Starts 3m left of 'Ich Spreche Nicht Deutsches', just left of small tree. FA: Neil Monteith, 2007 | 10m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Red Rock Area Red Rock Pinnacles Vertebrae Pinnacle | |||||
23 | ★ Get What You Paid For
Starts 2m left of Vertebrae. Pumpy underclings and nigh all footholds keep the juices flowing in the forearms. An interesting assortment of bolting technology adorns this climb. Five FH's and a u-bolt loweroff. A large wire could be useful between bolts one and two. FA: Neil Monteith Adam Demmert, 2004 | 15m | |||
23 | ★ Sweat of Effort
Prominent leftwards leaning line on west facing wall 30m south of the Vertebrae Pinnacle. Bulgy 'Arapiles' style rock. Awkward slabby closed corner to start then pumpy traversing to finish. Good gear but needs a bit of a clean. FA: Malcolm Matheson Neil Monteith, 2004 | 20m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Red Rock Area Red Rock Pinnacles Kentucky Block | |||||
23 | ★ Monkey Punch
Start 3m right of Spanish Sahara. Start from ground off large boulders, hard moves up and over bulge then up face using right arête and face holds to double ring bolt anchor. Équip.: Dick Lodge, 11 Nov. 2016 FA: Dick Lodge, 11 Nov. 2016 | 14m, 4 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Red Rock Area Red Rock Pinnacles South Pinnacle | |||||
23 | ★ Red Rock Arete
A fairly good climb, taking the L arete of the main face. Start from a ledge gained by scrambling up the boulder choked gully. Climb a short crack from the R side of the ledge then move back left to the arete and up and slightly right to more cracks leading up to the arete again. Move around left of the arete and up to a ledge (belay possible) to finish up the final, steeply overhanging arete. Double ropes a must. Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd, Peter Riddy March 89 FA: Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd & Peter Riddy, 1989 | 35m | |||
23 | ★ Full Metal Vengeance
This one's for 'Justin Thyme'. A long juggy wall climb with a hard roof move down low. Start as for 'Conflict of Interest' on the south face of the southern pillar. At COI's first FH step left to UB and power through awkward roof and vague finger crack to stance. Up with a slight right trend past five further UB's to the same anchor as COI. Beware the runout just before the anchor. Some medium wires could be useful if you aren't feeling bold. FA: Neil Monteith Jono Schimdt, 2005 | 26m, 6 | |||
23 | ★★ Fat Fingered Freak
Pumpy with some novelty moves. Located 10m right of Conflict Of Interest in shaded chasm. Bouldery steep short corner (stickclip RB) to ledge. Step right then up left facing flake system (three RBs) to rap chain. Last bolt was added after first ascent. FA: Nick McKinnon | 18m, 4 | |||
23 | ★★ Variance
One of the best routes here but requires trad and bolt plates so not hugely popular. Varied climbing! Starts 5m right of 'Fat Fingered Freak'. Stick clip RB from block. Jump for jug and mantle onto ledge. Clip BR and step right then trend back left along sloping orange edge (BR) to under cracked bulge. Pull through this strenuously protected by wires to jug at base of small corner. Clip BR; stem into corner for a few moves then reach out left to escape hold that leads to jugs and top. Single u-bolt lower-off WARNING - single clip and go anchor could be unsafe - please thread direct through Ubolt rather than using the biner. Single set of wires and a finger size cam is the only trad gear required. FA: Neil Monteith | 18m, 4 | |||
23 | ★ One Ring to Bind Them
The overhung knifeblade arete about 5m right of 'Variance'. Surprisingly pumpy and sustained. And - unless it has been rebolted - remember to take a bolt plate! Stickclip RB for bouldery start then hang on for the ride up fragile sharp pockets and flakes past a BR and three UBs. This used to be mostly trad but was subsequently retroed to make it actually enjoyable. It was even solo-aided on trad by Neil as a means to get to the summit! WARNING - single clip-and-go lower off biner should not be used. Please thread directly through u-bolt. These biners can snap at very low weights. FA: Neil Monteith | 15m, 4 | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Red Rock Area Red Rock Pinnacles Marianas Trench | |||||
23 | ★★ Spinal Tap
Would be a three star megaclassic if it wasn't tucked away in this gully. 4m right of 'Wave of Mutilation'. Chimney up the start to the first FH. Flakes, pockets and heucos lead up steep orange wall past eight FHs. Watch the lurking block behind you between the fourth and sixth bolts. FA: Neil Monteith | 20m | |||
Victoria North West Grampians Victoria Range Red Rock Area Crag X | |||||
23 | ★ Solar Flare
Up and right after the 2nd bolt on the "ledge" traverse. FA: Doug McConnell & Kerrin Gale, 10 Mai 2015 | 18m, 6 | |||
23 | ★★★ Misty
An exciting spacey route with great climbing. Start on the steep arete. An exposed traverse past RB leads to a run out and delicate face with natural gear. Climb past a 2nd RB to join Misty Variant, arrange gear and top out. A yellow and green alien are useful to protect the top shallow break. FA: Benjamin Eichler, 2005 | 25m, 2 | |||
23 | A Visit From The Footbinder
The only slab for miles. Start on a detached flake 8 metres left of an arête on the large free standing block below the right end of the main cliff. FA: Louise Shepherd, Jane Wilkinson, Steve Monks & Simon Mentz, 1989 | 30m, 1 | |||
V3 | ★ Chained to the Massess (s)
Sit start on left of roof. Traverse left to right to finish on jug. |