Voies dans Tasman Peninsula

60m Fixed line rap off the rings as for the Totem pole, jump in and swim left not right to ledge with U bolts 2m above water. Drag traverse rope across 15m gap and setup tyrolean or swim.

Note 60m fixed line will initially require 10m extension with tag line to span diagonally when being dragged up from start of first pitch.

Loose rock is a possibility on all pitches, hauling of spare ropes and packs is recommended.

1. (18) 30m Steely up corner crack which thins to fingers. Traverse right under roof and out onto finger flakes on face then up and traverse back left to sloping belay ledge with fixed wire. Good sustained pitch.

2. (17) 30m Up corner crack with bridging and hand jamming of various widths. Continue to loose vegetated belay ledge at top with slings around boulder. Good pitch with some small rest ledges.

3. (15) 25m Up wide crack and through awkward chimney sqeeze being careful not to dislodge loose rock. If climbing in single pair then leader will need to trail tyrolean rope up through chimney and flick around arête with help of second otherwise it will get stuck on arête. Continue up cracks and onto belay ledge being mindful of loose rock when choosing anchor pro.

4. (15) 20m Up sunny face veering a little left at the top to another rusty anchor then scramble to the real summit.

Rap off the rings as for the Totem pole, jump in and swim right to an easy ledge just behind the Totem pole.

1. 30m Up chimney / crack

2. 30m More chimney / crack, ending on a good ledge with 2 rings to tyrolean back to the mainland roughly level with the top of the tote.

3. 30m through chimney past big chockstone (on descent it's easy to get your rope stuck on this), then up through looser rock into the sunshine to a rusty anchor.

4. 20m Up sunny face veering a little left at the top to another rusty anchor then scramble to the real summit.

This is the chossiest route to the summit of the candlestick. Although it's the easiest, expect very poor rock and gear the whole way (last pitch excepted)

A mind-blowing line. The 3rd pitch climbs the arete left of the Free Route. The climbing is sustained and technically demanding.

1. 10m 22 Climb up to the 1st bolt on Deep Play, clip this with a long draw then drop back down a few metres to the horizontal break. Traverse left and around the arête to a stance and belay on the east face.

2. 15m 25 Blast up the face for a few metres then traverse onto the right hand arête. Climb this via a tricky and powerful crux sequence to the ledge. Note: stay on the right hand arête: if you head left at the top it will become way run out and even harder.

3. 40m 27 Starting on the big ledge, follow the finger crack (.5 and .2 camolots plus wires) to the left hand arête and first bolt. Up this past 8BR and a few bits of natural gear. Finish as the Free Route.

Gear List: • Double set of cams from .2 to .5 camolots • 2x 30cm quick draws • 1x 60cm quick draw • 14x quick draws • single 60m rope and 1 x 120cm sling • A ton of Psyche!

1. 25m (25) This pitch doesn't get done much since Deep Play was established, the latter being easier with much lower ropedrag and admin.

2. 40m (25) This is the "money pitch". Mostly Bolts (about 8), a few pieces of trad gear where the climbing is easier.

Popular variant first-pitch to 'The Free Route'. Mostly Bolts, a few pieces of small trad gear where the climbing is easier.

1. 20m (- M5)

2. 15m (- M5)

3. 30m (- M5)

The original Ewbank Aid Route, now freed at 25, 26, 27, 17 by Doug McConnell.

3 great pitches of crack climbing followed by a short top-out pitch. A great alternative if the Totem Pole routes are wet when you get out there. Rap 25m to double rings and Fixed Hanger. For the next rap :IMPORTANT: Rap down crack to the right (looking out,ie towards Cape Pillar) 30m to a Double ring hanging belay, don't just rap straight over ledge(you won't find the double rings). Next Rap 45m to huge ledge 15m above the ocean, or rap to the first belay (2 F.H.)30m below, with one 15 rap to the ledge.

Start: Follow the Cape Huay track (1.5 Hrs) all the way to the the end, don\'t turn off as for the Totem Pole, but continue to un-fenced rock lookout. Locate rap rings over cliff edge on left(looking out). The route is 100m south of the Totem Pole,ie towards Cape Pillar.

1. 15m (24) Punchy litle pitch up crack to 2 Fixed Hangers and small stance on left of crack. Bolts and small gear

2. 30m (25) Ball-tearer of a pitch up crack to Double rings on right of crack. Bolt, then plenty of sm-med cams, wires and dutch courage. Led by the master of bridging Mr Monks!

3. 30m (23) Brilliant steep crack climbing to thank-God ledge. Cams to #3 Camalot, wires

4. 25m (18) Interesting face & crack climbing to the ledge, then up corner to DBB (though it is possible to finish more easily on the right). Great climbing, but the rock quality is a tad crumbly.

3 great pitches of crack climbing followed by a short top-out pitch. A great alternative if the Totem Pole routes are wet when you get out there. Rap 25m to double rings and Fixed Hanger. For the next rap: IMPORTANT: Rap down crack to the right (looking out,ie towards Cape Pillar) 30m to a Double ring hanging belay, don't just rap straight over ledge(you won't find the double rings). Next Rap 45m to huge ledge 15m above the ocean, or rap to the first belay (2 F.H.)30m below, with one 15 rap to the ledge.

1. 15m, 24, 2 bolts -Punchy litle pitch up crack to 2 Fixed Hangers and small stance on left of crack. Bolts and small gear

2. 30m, 25, 1 bolt - Ball-tearer of a pitch up crack to Double rings on right of crack. Bolt, then plenty of sm-med cams, wires and dutch courage. Led by the master of bridging Mr Monks!

3. 30m, 23 - Brilliant steep crack climbing to thank-God ledge. Cams to #3 Camalot, wires

4. 25m, 18 - Interesting face & crack climbing to the ledge, then up corner to DBB (though it is possible to finish more easily on the right). Great climbing, but the rock quality is a tad crumbly.

Two pitches of stunning arêtes, both of which are fully bolted. A great bad weather option when the Tote is being hammered by the swell. The route is on the mainland cliffs facing the Totem Pole. Fix a 60m rope to DBB as for the Totem Pole access, but rap diagonally towards Cape Pillar (SE), heading down a scungy corner to a ledge with a DBB belay. Continue rapping down the wall below, L of knife blade arête, to arrive at a small ledge about 5m above the ocean with another DBB.

1. 35m (24) Climb sustained arête past 10 FHs that get fairly spaced and oddly placed as you get higher. Belay on vegetated ledge at DBB.

2. 20m (20) Up thin crack splitting the exposed arête above to small ledge. Sling rock tooth with a large sling and climb easily to top. Belay off the DBB.

This is directly under the rap anchors for the Totem pole and starts on a large ledge level with the ledge on the tote.

Up fist crack widening to offwidth, a small roof then back to hand crack and thinner to top.

Alternate start 1m right up nice layback crack for 5m then traverse left into offwidth.

Rappel into the chimney chasm furthest point climbers left on the ramp.

The striking arete south of Grey Nurse, easy climbing to a high crux.

Obvious crack line climbers far left on the ramp, slopey ledge belay (10m), 20m up classy corner to topout.

Striking prominent arete in the far left zawn, quality climbing on friable rock.

The arete closest to the bay, short and punchy.

The easiest route to bail out from if the tides are giving you grief - following the split where the wall joins the sloping ramp, then traversing right & up the bulging block to the she-oak. A bit of a wander...

R of TCFBS via 7 carrots

Nice climbing up the box groove, with a convenient tree to rap-off at the top.

It's definitely cake! Take the committing line through the left of the enormous roof to the face crack and face to the top. For now rap off a tree near the top. Anchors and a bolt will be installed at some point - somewhat spicy (but safe) topout until this happens.

Micro cams (.1 and .2) and a small (yellow) offset nut or cam recommended.

The striking flake / off-width. Jam, layback and struggle up the prominent line to a lower-off. Take a couple #4 and #5 cams. Quite unique, and not bad for this sort of thing. Lower-off.

The crack/groove just right of the flake, traversing left to the anchor at the top.

Steep jamming with a nice bulge a half height. Looks 3 grades harder and is an absolute delight. Take a #4. Lower-off.

The appealing hand crack. Lower-off.

Brilliant, sustained climbing up the attractive crack in the centre of the buttress. As good as it looks. Lower-off.

Superb technical climbing up the arete. Eight bolts to a lower off.

A classy corner route, with two equally excellent starts. Take the left crack and step across to the main line (19) or go direct (18). Lower-off.

A classy corner route, with two equally excellent starts. Take the left crack and step across to the main line (19) or go direct (18). Lower-off.

Powerful, consistent bouldery climbing up the middle of the face and through the small roof. Eight bolts to a lower off.

Awkward then pleasant hand jamming up the groove crack to a lower-off.

the exit route from the Moai platform

The best way to do the link up is in one long pitch. Past two U bolts to a flake with good natural gear, then to the ledge (as for the end of 'Burning Spear P1') then up past bolts to DBB loweroffs.

You can just lower on a 50m rope but be careful not to drop it in the sea in high winds.

Past two U bolts to flake with good natural gear. Continue up to ledge to join the top of 'Burning Spear p1'

1. 25m 24. Crank through the overhang at the base of the NE arete. Continue up the arete and the wall to its left.

2. 10m 20. Blast straight up from the belay ledge then trend right via the last U to finish on the right side of the arete. No natural gear required on either pitch.

1. 10m. Scramble up to the ledge on the NE side of the Moai.

2. 20m. Climb the corner onto the pedestal then up to the bolt. From the bolt move right 1m then up via a flake. Trend rightward to another bolt then straight up. Use the anchors of 'Ancient Astronaught' to belay/rappel (a single 50m rope doubled just makes it down). Take a small selection of small to mid-sized SLCDs.

Note: the first bolt is currently loose, the rap chains seem pretty lightweight.

R.Eberhard, R.Parkyn, Aug/94.

A two pitch escape route to get you back up the rap route. Grade 12, 16

Great face climbing in a very exposed position. The route is fully bolted. Abseil 25m from visible DBBs near the arete to a small ledge with fixed anchors.

An incredible pitch.

Abseil 30m from the DBB at the start of ‘The Secret Ingredient…’ to another DBB below a roof on a sloping ledge. Climb through the roof on its right and into a finger / hand crack. Follow this until the bolts, trending left and climb the side of the arete to the anchors. Finish up either ‘The Secret Ingredient…’ or start the traverse into ‘The Pud Life’ to exit.

Recommended gear; cams #0.3 to #2 with extra #0.4 and #0.5, a black offset nut, and at least 9 quick draws.

Some choice quotes from the first ascentionist: "Climbed a choss first pitch from the ground (kayak access) ...wouldn’t recommend ...some of the worst rock imaginable... it's quite impressive how bad some of the sea cliff Dolerite can be. It looks compact and then just sheds scales."

Despite the sage words, the kayak approach may mean the pitch is worth repeating. Take a triple rack including big gear (#3 & #4) if you want it to be a bit more pleasant.

Likely the best pitch of grade 17 on the Peninsula. Well-protected.

From the belay ledge clip the low bolt to the right and traverse 2m right to the base of a hidden hand-crack. Follow this to a stance at a small ledge with a roof. Traverse airily right 2m to gain the base of another hidden clean crack. Follow this and the face above to the top. Either traverse right at the lip to gain the DBB or top out and belay from a tree using something to protect the bark.

Recommended gear; double rack of cams, with an extra #2 and #3. Only one #4 needed, #1 not required. Access as for ‘The Secret Ingredient…’.

Two stellar pitches of sustained crack climbing. The route is so named because of a large pink algal bloom making shapes in the ocean below during the FA. Well protected with a full trad rack, including a set of wires and double rack of cams from BD #0.2 - #3. Extra cams around finger size and a #4 are useful. Access to the start of the route is from double bolts 20cm over the edge of the cliff (you can use the large tree about 5m from the edge to help access these if you wish - use a sling on the tree to protect it). Two 25m abseils from the DBBs takes you to the start of the route at a small ledge at the base of a large twin-edged flake.

1. 25m 20 Climb the thoughtful twin-edged flake then continue up the main line past some tricky technical jamming. Continue up the line with a final pull around a small bulge to the DBB.

2. 25m 22 A cracker pitch. Finger jam, bridge and layback the excellent sustained finger crack. Continue jamming more easily when this ends to the top.

Locate a pair of carrot bolts in horizontal rock on top of the pillar, these may be covered by foliage. Alternatively look for the DBB at the end of the third pitch close to the carrots described earlier. The DBB can be reached from the top and is in vertical rock on the north-east side of the pillar 30cm over the edge. Abseil with a 60m fixed rope, or, if brave, abseil in three pitches, from double bolts, using a single 60 metre rope. You will need eight hangers and a dozen draws, a medium wire (No 5 Rock) and Cams 0.4,0.5,0.75, 1 (BD C4s). The route is equipped with a mixture of stainless expansion bolts with hangers and (bash-in!) stainless carrots, and is somewhat runout in places. There could be another pitch below.

1. 25m 24 Move up a slight flake crack on the R, via the 0.4 and 0.5 camalot, and pull left onto the arête at a fixed hanger. Climb with increasing difficulty via carrots and some fixed hangers to a slight runout to the belay.

2. 25m 24 Continue up the arête on slightly worsening rock , where a #5 Rock eases tricky moves up to a short crack. Again there is a slight runout to the belay, but a 0.75 cam helps.

3. 10m 19 Climb the groove to a carrot, step R and go up a solid hand crack past a second carrot to the top.

Up the twin cracks in the first little alcove on the left, just before you approach the main crag near the waterline. Belay on shrubs and walk-off left through the scrub (crux).

Pleasant face climbing on big holds. Start in the middle of the wall and trend left and up the groove past some cam pockets to the arete, then move back right and up following the diagonal crack. Lower-off.

Jam up the steep hand crack to the bush, then bridge airily across the groove (looks unlikely from the ground) to finish up the final few metres of Davey Jones’ Locker. Lower-off.

The watery grave. If you’re questioning the grade you’re probably climbing it wrong. Lower-off.

There was considerable debate about the grade on this route. Fantastic climbing on great rock up the LHS of the arete. Start at the middle of the face below the undercut. Move past this to the flake (good wires and finger sized cams), pull past this to a good small wire, then continue up the superb steep arete on its LHS. Finish at the shared Sea Legs anchor around the right of the arete.

Thoughtful climbing up the open corner to the lower-off. Excellent small / medium wires and cams. Highly repeatable.

Photogenic & the South Cliff classic. Well-protected climbing up the overhanging finger crack. Sustained moves in the first half, before breaking out right to the good flake. After this, trend left and up to crank through the steep headwall on good holds, finishing up the final corner (save a BD #0.5) at the top. Lower-off.

Exciting climbing up the steep shallow corner and arete (peg leg). Up the crack to the first roof, pull left under this and then traverse across the fantastic featured face. Pull around and into the corner to finish as for Rum on the Rocks. Save a BD #1 for the traverse and #0.5 for the top corner.

Sustained climbing up the wall left of The Sirens Call. Start by climbing the LH edge of the flake to a stance, then trend left and up the slab to the horizontal break. Finish up and right into the final few metres of The Sirens Call. Take small to medium wires, plenty of finger-sized cams and a BD #3 and #4 for the top.

Continually interesting climbing up the eye-catching line to the lower-off. The leaning block is keyed-in but take care. A BD#4 for the top is useful.

Neat climbing up the face and blunt arete. Climb up and into the alcove, carefully place some gear, then crank straight through the roof and up the pocketed face. Mantle to the ledge, then follow the flake on the blunt arete before a final mantle to finish and lower-off. Take finger sized cams and wires.

Sustained climbing up the featured face on jugs, pockets and flakes. Finish up left of the arete at the top, then clip the shared lower-off on the right of the arete. Take a cam for the horizontal at the start, and a BD #1 for a pocket before the first bolt.

Enjoyable and well-protected climbing up the highly featured face and crack. Lower-off.

Up the blocky crack/face, plug some gear in the horizontal at 2/3rds height, then abandon ship and do a memorable traverse left (crux) to finish up Blistering Barnacles.

Tricky start up the LH wall to enter the bottomless hand crack, then steep laybacking and jamming to the top and lower-off. Nice climbing but the rock is a little peppery.

Nice bridging and finger jamming up the wide-angle corner with good protection. Lower-off.

A great companion route to Just Right. Up through the bulge as for Just Right, then traverse left across the wall following the line of holds into the next crack line. Follow this to the top and step right to the anchor. Good protection. Lower-off.

Starting on the far left of the crag where the ledges peter out, belay in a small undercut and head straight-up through the bulge and the excellent (just right) crack to the top. Lower-off.

Halfway between Just Right and Smooth Sailing is a thin crack. Up this and the proceeding juggy staircase above which ends on a small pillar. Step right above the void and belay/abseil from the anchor on smooth sailing. Quite a good ramble.

An excellent lead for the grade. Just left of the Arete from Maiden Voyage, start-up the corner / hand-crack on excellent holds, then traverse left into the splitter hand-crack and follow this to the top. Lower-off.

Engaging and thought-provoking climbing up the arete and its face on the RHS. A range of cams and two Us lead to the top. Lower-off.

A subterranean experience climbing through the crack-line and chimney, just right of the pointy blocky arete. Belay at top and then abseil off using the Smooth Sailing anchor.