Voies trad dans North

As you walk down the gorges along the tourist track past a long and narrow pool, you will walk on some polish flat and wide rock, about 20 meters upstream before you turn left on the “spider walk”. On the left side of the gorge (looking downstream), a crack line goes straight up, then under a small roof or cave, and out of the cave. Very fragile rock! Walk out requires scrambling on grade 10.

FA?: Remi Vignals, Kelly Chapman, August 2009

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/karijini-hancock-gorge-kalamina-gorge/

Walk passed the spider walk until you reach an exposed traverse/descent to the bottom of the gorge. About 2-3 m upstream from the start of this steep bolted traverse/descent into the gorge, look up for a slight overhanging wall with reasonably big holds on the right (looking downstream). That’s where the spiders go up. Pretend you are one of them with the rope being your web line! Rappel off a tree 10m right of the top of the climb. Keep a bit of energy to pull your rope down as the drag is significant.

FA?: Remi Vignals, Kelly Chapman, August 2009

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/karijini-hancock-gorge-kalamina-gorge/

Located towards the end of the Kalamina Gorge walk on the left end side after crossing the stream, there is a corner wall that looks somehow more solid than other walls. Climb the face (not the corner) up the thin crack which widens toward the top. Anchor and rappel down using the big gum tree located approx. 15m diagonally up and right from the top out. Yes, you’ll have to walk through the Spinifex!!

FA?: Remi Vignals, Kelly Chapman, August 2009

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/karijini-hancock-gorge-kalamina-gorge/

Shares two bolts with Hillside view. The guano streaked corner.

An unfortunate name, so its been changed

Start about 3m R of the chimney. Straight up to the second horizontal break, then veer slightly L (less than a meter) and back slightly R to finish R of rooflet. Despite being as sandy as the beach across the river, it offers great face climbing movements. FA: Kelly Boladeras, Remi Vignals – 9/09/2014

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/kalbarri-5-new-routes/

Scoops of fruits 15m 20* (Mixed) Start about 4m R of the chimney and move straight up through a series of scoops. 1 bolt. FA: Remi Vignals, Shevaun Cooley – 26/09/2014

Merrymaking 17m 19 (Trad) Start about 4m R of the chimney, gain the first horizontal break and traverse 3m right to gain another series of horizontal breaks. Finish straight up. Only shallow pockets for gear at 6m (sustained crux). FA: Remi Vignals, Shevaun Cooley – 26/09/2014

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/kalbarri-5-new-routes/

Start as for "Camp X". Climb into the ledge left of the first bolt of "Camp X" and careful step over to start of Wombat Amnesia. Then climb easily up corner crack system. Going direct at the bolt is also possible at Grade 16. Follow crack through open roof. Descent via 30m abseil from tree (60m rope sufficient but tie knots) or gully to left. Probably a fair bit easier than 15 and really really good.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/kalbarri-long-natural-line/

Takes main diagonal crack about 80m North of the lookout.

Start straight under the vertical crack. Progress up several meters, then move around left along esthetic rock formation. Sneak out the window and up onto the roof above. Although tempting, the direct alternative (17) up the arete has very sharp edges likely to cut the rope. Descent by scrabbling along slope ridge (heading downstream)

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/20-new-routes-in-kalbarri/

Located 3m right of SOTW where the wall steepens. A deep L hand pocket will get you off the ground. The line goes up and slightly R. Despite reasonable gear placement, it is an enerving 6m of pumpy steepness.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/20-new-routes-in-kalbarri/

(Mixed) Reminiscent of the flat ledges found at the Promenade, it offers a great series of moves. Start on the steepest section of the wall between BC and MF. The first pocket used for protection seem to only fit narrow SLCDs. 1 bolt. Same lower off as Midnight Flit.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/20-new-routes-in-kalbarri/

(Mixed) Entertaining start and worthwhile moves on all shapes of rock. Follow the most distinctive line direcly under the bolt and lower offs.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/20-new-routes-in-kalbarri/

the left facing corner crack

Start in the center of the rock formation. Keep the line dead vertical starting directly below the tubular runnel. Although climbed directly through the roof during the FA, there is a better/safer start 2m left to gain the top of the the first roof. A BD C4 #4 or #5, doubles of #2, #1, #.75 will help boost confidence. FA: Remi Vignals, Shevaun Cooley – 28/08/2015

the right facing corner crack

Best done as 2 pitches to avoid rope drag. Pitch 1 (16) goes up under the roof. Step around corner and up to ledge for belay near shrub to L of image. Pitch 2 is grade 10 or less.

Start as for BFM but head straight onto the ledge at the base of the face on the right. Go up the face trending left to reach a small juggy bulge. Go through the steepest part of the bulge and belay above

Traverse the lip of the roof next to the access gully. Natural protection can be pre-placed from the top.

Start on the RHS of the first stepped terrace. Place gear early or secure the belayer. Move slightly right to get off the ground then back left along slope to the thin corner. Continue straight up to the top pass the middle of the drum sounding flat feature above. Play a few beats if you dare!

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/20-new-routes-in-kalbarri/

Start 2m right of the first stepped terrace. Avoid ledge at 2m by climbing slightly steeper wall. Then up a straight line to the middle flake and continuing directly toward the dead tree at the top, finishing right (possibly on reachy holds) to avoid tree branches. Fiddly but fine gear.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/20-new-routes-in-kalbarri/

Directly up the large scoop, then move left half a meter to stay left of P&J. Less than ideal placements on bad rock. Climb it only if you have to. FA: – 21/06/2014

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/20-new-routes-in-kalbarri/

Straight up the small scoop in between P&J and 9-6=3

Start 1m right of large river gum on the yellow coloured rock in between two water streak. No gear until the horizontal break at 4m. Continue straight up pass steeper section to finish 1m right of bowl depression.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/20-new-routes-in-kalbarri/

Start behind the slopping block in the short space between two water streak (hopefully dry). No gear until the horizontal break at 4m. Continue straight up steeper terrain, use blocky flakes along the way, keeping the line straight.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/20-new-routes-in-kalbarri/

Interesting climb veering to R near top.

Trad as per FDB DS to roof to gain line of left trending RBs above roof. Watch for rope wear on lip when lowering.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/kalbarri-new-route-in-the-pit/

A good mixed line at right end of the pit. Good trad climbing up right trending flake to right end of roof. 3 bolts lead back left above roof to DB anchor. No doubt some will step out right to ledge (top of LH end Bison wall).

Original description by Remi (https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/kalbarri-the-bison-wall-dont-go-splat-20m-20/):

Start at ground level about 10m right of route #43 [Project right of Love Muscle) and 20m left of Thruch’n The Bison. Follow a series of vertical cracks between ledges. Scramble up the 1m vertical crack, then diagonally right on jugs to a vague crack leading to a large stepped platform. Continue up the wider crack, placing some gear high in it before committing any further (crux). One or two small finger size SLCDs (i.e: BD Camalot C3#0 and C4#0.3) will come handy to protect the top out. Rope drag is manageable. Fragile rock around the top anchor. Might be done in 2 pitches to benefit from a spotter/belayer. Without protection high in the final crack, grade: 20X.

FA: Remi Vignals, Delphine Chabanne, June 2012

Based on this I'm not sure the topo line is right or that "Don't go Splat 2" is a retro bolt of this.

Climbed the right most flake to the first break at 7 meters. Plug some cams and enter the pumpy crux and traverse left past Love Muscle and Crankshaft into feral dog boy. Be sure to extend gear whilst keeping your seconder in mind.

Unique and memorable for the feet-first approach to surmounting the overlap. Well worth the effort.

Start 10m left of It’s a Boy or 2m left of Peek-a-boo, just below the right hand side of the pontoon size ledge. A small pocket under the pontoon is useful to protect the first boulder move. Continue by traversing 8m left (horizontally) under the next roof. Exit and finish diagonally another 8m to the top crack of Chimney Sweep. A good outing!

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/20-new-routes-in-kalbarri/

Same bouldery start as Pontoon, but instead of going left, go straight up the break, moving a little left before using juggy roof. Keep a straight line and watch for rope drag as you negociate the two short walls above.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/20-new-routes-in-kalbarri/

Start 8m left of It’s a Boy, where the chocolate coloured band of rock juts out to present a start hold. Keep heading upwards and diagonally right through a series of horizontal breaks to exit out the overhanging roof at its narrowest spot. Well protected with cams.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/20-new-routes-in-kalbarri/

Bustin' on gear

She Magic on trad

Line straight up the middle of the boulder. Use your choice of protection in the holes at the bottom. Make it bomber, If you fall from the crux, you will bounce off the inclined rock and this piece will stop you from launching towards the river.

After crux traverse left to easy, flowy awesome climbing with small gear. 2 Carrot bolts at the top. Will need plates.

Famous, epic roof crack located opposite the Promenade, you can't miss it.

Footage @ 10mins 30sec https://youtu.be/MSN7b6HeLA4

The large hand crack with overhanging start in the middle of the grey wall. up crack, step L to continue up very dodgy almost completely detached flake then up face to top.

The corner at the right hand end, big gear.

On the left end of the 'Kalbarri Gold Wall', climb up the blocky wall to a ledge round the corner. Make some committing moves right to traverse all the way to the lip of the roof. The gear is mostly near your feet, making this tricky to protect at times, including for your second, but it is fairly escapable and offers great exposure for the grade!

50m after the end of the 'Kalbarri Gold Wall', slightly uphill, is a short face. Start on the boulder, about a meter left of the corner. Go up, passing the small cave on your right, then slightly left to the top pigeon hole. Finish straight up, possibly topping out via 'Wreck it Ralph' if the top out is dirty. The top out needs a bit of clearing but there is a good belay a few meters up.

50m after the end of the 'Kalbarri Gold Wall', slightly uphill, is a short face. Start at the lowest point on the face and climb up and right of the small cave, past 2 pigeon holes on your right and straight to the top. The top out needs a bit of clearing but there is a good belay a few meters up.

The short lay back right trending corner finger crack thats floating above the old dunny area. Accessing this climb is half the fun. Treat it as a boulder problem

A mid-size cam eater! Start on the pedestal, go up one move and trend left of the hueco continuing straight up the highest part of the wall.

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/20-new-routes-in-kalbarri/

Fun climbing up the chimney. Avoid hollow sounding protuding rock behind (low).

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/20-new-routes-in-kalbarri/