Zillertaler Alpen Guide

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2,014 routes in Region

Bloc, Escalade sportive et autres styles

Lat / Long: 47.162456, 11.862603

description

(AVE 35)

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1,951 routes in Region

Bloc, Escalade sportive et autres styles

Lat / Long: 47.179402, 11.881730

résumé

The Zillertal is a paradise for outdoor activities, amongst them all styles of climbing. From bouldering to sport climbing and alpine multi-pitch climbing and even ice climbing in winter.

Das Zillertal ist ein Paradies für Outdoor-Aktivitäten, darunter natürlich alle Varianten des Kletterns. Das Zillertal bietet alles, vom Bouldern über Sportklettern und alpines Mehrseillängenklettern bis hin zum Eisklettern im Winter.

Das Zillertal erstreckt sich südlich vom Inntal in die Zillertaler Alpen. Verschiedene Seitentäler (darunter der schöne Zillergrund) tragen zu seiner Attraktivität und seinen Klettermöglichkeiten bei. Klettern findet man sowohl im Talboden als auch hoch bis zu den höchsten Gipfeln. Während das meiste Klettern im Zillertal auf Granit stattfindet, bietet das Zillertal auch Kalksteinfelsen als auch Gneis an.

Aufgrund der verschiedenen Expositionen der Klettergebiete in verschiedenen Höhen kann das ganze Jahr über geklettert werden. Die wärmeren Jahreszeiten sind jedoch wahrscheinlich besser geeignet für einen Besuch, der sich auf das Klettern konzentriert.

Während viele Klettergebiete eine lange Geschichte haben, gibt es auch noch viel Neues und Gebiete in Entwicklung. Achte daher auf neue Ergänzungen bei bestehenden Klettergebieten, aber auch auf völlig neue Entwicklungen im gesamten Tal.

Klettergebiete sind taleinwärts geografisch aufgelistet.

The Ziller valley (Zillertal) stretches south from the Inn valley (Inntal) into the Zillertaler Alpen. Various side valleys (amongst them beautiful Zillergrund) add to its attractivity and climbing options. Climbing can be found in the valley bottoms as well as high up to the highest peaks. While most climbing is on granite, Zillertal also offers some limestone climbing as well as some gneiss.

You may climb year round due to the various exposures and crags on different altitudes. However, the warmer seasons are probably nicer for a visit focussing on climbing.

While many crags have a lot of history, there is still a lot of development ongoing, so watch out for new additions at existing crags but also completely new developments all along the valley.

Crags are sorted geographically as you drive into the valley.

Boulderinformation refers to the Zillertalguidebook by Markus Schwaiger

Limitations de l'accès

Some crags are on private land, please behave accordingly in order to maintain access. Also, certain crags experience seasonal closures, please be informed!

approche

Zillertal and its main town, Mayrhofen are easily reached from Innsbruck (about an hour drive).

où dormir

This is one of the most touristy places in Austria. You can find all sorts of accommodation, from camp sites to luxury hotels. Be aware that during high season - mostly summer, but also major public holidays and ski season - the whole valley can be quite crowded.

historique

It started all before the 1980's when mountain guides like Gerhard Hörhager senior and Andreas Aschenwald trained on the granite towers in front of the restaurant Breitlahner (now called "Ewige Jagdgründe"). In 1983 Darshano L. Rieser and Gerhard Hörhager junior freed the hitherto teaid climbed Schotterriss and called it "Sechsplosion". Redpointing was introduced to the Zillertal. Since then the development hasn't stopped.

Summary:

6 routes in Cliff

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.198433, 11.879052

description

A small cliff with harder and short routes.

Summary:

15 routes in Cliff

10-20 minutes Granite Déversant Vertical Sud-ouest

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.200325, 11.880190

description

A small cliff with harder routes.

approche

Park the car in Unterbichl and take the path "Ramsauer Höhenweg" upp the hill to point (47.200098, 11.881862). From there, go into the woods and traverse through the forest to the cliff (47.200348, 11.880265).

Summary:

87 routes in Crag

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.176450, 11.855783

Summary:

487 routes in Area

Bloc, Escalade sportive et autres styles

Lat / Long: 47.136852, 12.000451

résumé

Zillergrund is a mystical place with lots of bouldering areas and sport climbing but it also offers access to some of the alpine walls in the Zillertaler Alpen.

description

Zillergrund is the source valley of the Ziller River. It is bordered to the east by the Reichenspitzgruppe mountain at the border of Austrian province Salzburg, and in the south by the Ahrntal Valley in South Tyrol.

approche

The Zillergrund can be reached from Mayrhofen and Brandberg. A toll road runs from the Nature Park's Maurach parking lot (after the Brandberg Tunnel) to Bärenbad.

Summary:

75 routes in Crag

Nord-est Approche raide

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.143529, 11.826058

résumé

A very popular crag amongts hard movers with a short approach. Mostly athletic endurance climbing.

approche

Drive from Mayrhofen in direction Ginzling. Pass the turn off in direction of Finkenberg and park just after that left or right next to the road. Follow a steep trail up into the forest.

Summary:

122 routes in Field

Gneiss <5 minutes

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 47.142094, 11.826766

description

About 60 blocks ready to be climbed.

Limitations de l'accès

Approach to the sectors can be quite slippery after rain. Boulders may be hard or impossible to access based on water levels. Base of boulders might be flooded. Be wary of quick changes in water levels at all times.!

approche

park at (47.145203, 11.829301)

Summary:

7 routes in Cliff

Granite <5 minutes Déversant Nord

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.138282, 11.819608

description

A spectacular small crag just above the spectacular road through the canyon.

Summary:

86 routes in Field

5-10 minutes <5 minutes Granite Autorisé

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 47.136446, 11.820591

Summary:

12 routes in Cliff

Granite 5-10 minutes Déversant Toit Est

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.131675, 11.817644

description

A very demanding cliff just after the boulder area Zemmschlucht.

Summary:

12 routes in Field

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 47.126049, 11.813871

Limitations de l'accès

Achtung! Das Klettern an den Blöcken 1, 2 und 4 sind verboten! Currently it is forbidden to climb at blocs number 1, 2 and 4!

Summary:

21 routes in Crag

Granite 10-20 minutes Déversant Vertical Ouest

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.128387, 11.818975

résumé

Steep routes, many with hard grades distributed on 3 different sectors.

approche

Park next to the turn off for the restaurant Karlsteg. Follow the trail left before the next avalanche protection to reach PamPam. For Chocolat and Super Natural follwo the gully and then right.

Summary:

312 routes in Area

Escalade sportive, Bloc et autres styles

Lat / Long: 47.107156, 11.812922

résumé

Boulders, icafalls around Ginzling

Summary:

1 route in Crag

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.091330, 11.826087

approche

Park at Tristenbachalm. From there, follow the road for further 400m. Turn right into a steep, small river bed. After 100m, cairns lead to the right through the forest until you reach the gully that directly leads to the wall.

Summary:

5 routes in Crag

Granite Nord-est

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.086498, 11.829290

Summary:

6 routes in Cliff

Granite Nord-ouest

Alpinisme et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 47.082023, 11.871338

description

The joint Northwest Face of 2. und 3. König. Alpine climbing with extreme exposure and difficulty and long approaches.

Summary:

1 route in Crag

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.058608, 11.895632

résumé

3002m Peak, 2 hours hike from the Greizur Hütte.

Summary:

9 routes in Cliff

Granite 20-30 minutes Nord-ouest

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.096648, 11.809663

description

The small area, with a handful of demanding routes, lies hidden in the forest to the south of Ginzling.

approche

From the Nature House car park, the road leads in the direction of Floitental. In the second bend, follow the hiking trail and sign posts. After approx. 10 minutes, you will reach the narrow path leading to the wall.

Summary:

8 routes in Cliff

Granite <5 minutes Dalle Vertical Sud-est

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.093423, 11.796967

description

A small block with some older but nice routes.

approche

From Ginzling take a right after the bridge in direction of Schlegeis. About 1/2km after exiting the village park and follow the trail to the creek.

Summary:

8 routes in Cliff

Granite 10-20 minutes Déversant Nord-ouest Au sec quand il pleut

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.091145, 11.801769

description

Small, shady and somewhat hidden climbing garden. Good for hot days.

approche

Follow the hiking path towards Maxhütte until you reach a gate where a path opens up on the lefthand side. Follow the signs until you reach the climbing area!

Summary:

11 routes in Cliff

Granite 20-30 minutes Déversant Vertical Nord-ouest Au sec quand il pleut

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.087810, 11.791910

description

A relatively new crag with mostly hard routes, steep and shady.

approche

About 1km after the Maxhütte car park, you will find a wooden hut on your right. Opposite this hut, follow the narrow road up to the material cable car in the direction of the Maxhütte. After around 15 minutes, a narrow path branches off and leads down to the stream. The routes are in the upper part of the wall that is visible from here.

Summary:

5 routes in Cliff

Granite 1-2 heures Est

Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 47.079330, 11.799405

description

A relatively new crag with harder multi-pitch routes near the Maxhütte. In the southern part of the wall, you will find beautiful climbs of moderate difficulty while the northern part of the wall offers hard climbs. The wall is sunny in the morning.

Geo-Location not exact!! Please correct!!

approche

Follow the hiking trail to the Maxhütte, which you will reach in about 1 hour. A hunter’s trail begins from the hut leading out of the valley. Follow this trail until you reach the forest and then walk for a few minutes through the forest until you reach the signpost. Walking time from the hut approx. 30 minutes.

Summary:

24 routes in Cliff

Granite 20-30 minutes Déversant Dalle Vertical Sud-est

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.089832, 11.772329

description

An older crag for hard movers.

approche

Park next to the power plant, cross the creek and follow the dirt road to the first turn. From there follow the trail to the cliff.

Summary:

13 routes in Cliff

10-20 minutes Déversant Vertical Sud-est

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.084200, 11.764292

description

A cliff just next to a waterfall - best suited for the cold period.

approche

Drive from Ginzling in direction of Schlegeis and turn off for Roßhag. Park next to the former restaurant. Hike up along the creek, you will first reach the block Lalaculla and then the main wall.

Summary:

82 routes in Field

5-10 minutes

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 47.081835, 11.772081

description

One of the newest areas in the valley with a short approach. Great family bouldering area for climbers of all ages and experience.

approche

Follow the road from Ginzling towards "Ewige Jagdgründe" for around 3.5 km, until you reach a small barn on the right - Igentalm alpine farm. A road leads into the forest on the opposite side. Follow the signs from here.

Summary:

30 routes in Field

Granite <5 minutes Déversant Vertical

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 47.083084, 11.767905

description

A boulder area with mostly easier climbs.

approche

Drive from Ginzling in direction Schlegeis and park about 1km after the turn-off for Bodenalm. hike down to the boulder field.

Summary:

7 routes in Cliff

5-10 minutes Granite Dalle Toit Vertical Nord-ouest

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.079737, 11.766728

description

A small cliff hidden in the forest.

approche

Driving from Ginzling in direction of Schlegeis park about 0.5km after the turn-off for Bodenalm. From there hike left into the forest.

Summary:

1 route in Crag

Tous Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 47.003306, 11.627807

résumé

Several multipitch routes. Belays are bolted, with some bolts in between, but mobile protection is needed.

approche

Either from car-park before switchback 4 via 4 + 4a towards the wall (1:40h), from Pfitscherjoch (Haus) via the "Hoehenweg" or from Schlegeisspeicher. Last part of appraoch is without trail.

Summary:

5 routes in Cliff

<5 minutes Granite Déversant Vertical Ouest

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.079055, 11.763339

description

A small block below the road on steep terrain.

Summary:

6 routes in Crag

10-20 minutes Granite Déversant Est Athlétique Toutes les marées

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.078178, 11.762560

résumé

A small block in the river bed with shallow pockets and nice compression routes.

approche

Park at the bridge and enter a small little hidden pathway down to the river. Cross the river on the stones and after a few difficult ups and downs your already see the crag.

Summary:

9 routes in Boulder

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 47.076605, 11.758388

Summary:

99 routes in Field

Granite <5 minutes Privé

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 47.072361, 11.754959

description

Popular bouldering area between the camping area and "Ewige Jagdgründe" with numerous boulders on a meadow.

Summary:

18 routes in Cliff

30-45 minutes Granite Déversant Vertical Ouest

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.075887, 11.750406

description

A cliff worth the longer hike.

Summary:

1 route in Cliff

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.064825, 11.762293

Summary:

27 routes in Crag

Granite 20-30 minutes Déversant Dalle Vertical Approche raide

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.067237, 11.758642

résumé

A small but steep cliff with lots of history and famous routes like "Minutes to Midnight".

approche

Drive in direction of Schlegeisspeicher until you see the blocks of Ewige Jagdgründe. Take a right up to the parking. Follow the rampart next to the creek up until you reach a fixed rope. Continue until you reach a trail to the left and then right. More fixed ropes lead you to the cliffs.

Summary:

135 routes in Crag

Granite <5 minutes Déversant Dalle Toit Vertical Plat

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.065761, 11.752504

résumé

Sport climbing crag with short approach, idyllic setting, short and hard routes

description

The oldest sport climbing area in the Zillertal with more than 100 routes on large granite blocks lying in the valley bottom.

Limitations de l'accès

The meadow surrounding the blocks is private property. In the past, problems have arisen with the owner. Please respect any fencing or access restriction; do not disturb the cattle.

Use the parking and toilet provided.

approche

Drive southwards through Mayrhofen past Ginzling. Follow direction Schlegeiss Stausee. You'll see the large blocks left of the road on the other side of the stream. Park in the parking on the right-hand side.

Parts of the area require crossing the stream, which may not be possible in all conditions. There used to be a cable for Tyrolean traverses.

Summary:

9 routes in Crag

Sud-est

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.066892, 11.750127

résumé

Steep cliff above the Ewige Jagdgründe. Multi-pitch sport climbing.

approche

Same as Ewige Jagdgründe, follow a trail up to the cliff.

Summary:

133 routes in Area

10-20 minutes

La plupart Bloc

Lat / Long: 47.057228, 11.751217

résumé

Area around Breitlahner Gasthof (47.0607967, 11.7497317) with boulders and short icefalls

Summary:

1 route in Cliff

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.044191, 11.744736

Summary:

43 routes in Area

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 47.024509, 11.812982

Summary:

1 route in Artificial

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.038643, 11.706755

résumé

At the 131 meter high dam are 2 5-pitch routes each with 5 rope lenghts.

approche

Park near the dam. The trail starts at the imbiss "s'Raschtl".

description

Aufenfeldweg 10

6274 Aschau, Zillertal

http://www.kletterzentrum-zillertal.at

Tel: 0664 34 85 352

Summary:

1 route in Area

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 47.190247, 12.110977

Summary:

10 routes in Area

Tous Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 47.052971, 11.838103

Summary:

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37 routes in Area

Alpinisme, Escalade sportive et autres styles

Lat / Long: 47.040371, 11.568667

Summary:

11 routes in Crag

La plupart Alpinisme

Lat / Long: 47.045651, 11.644732

Summary:

1 route in Crag

Tous Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 47.026585, 11.642326

Summary:

6 routes in Crag

Alpinisme, Escalade traditionnelle et Style inconnu

Lat / Long: 47.024596, 11.627906

Summary:

8 routes in Crag

10-20 minutes Désigné Approche raide Taillé

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.066995, 11.494625

résumé

Hervorragend eingerichtete Mehrseillängentouren auch zum Einstieg in das Drytoolen. Weitere Informationen unter: https://www.bergfuehrer-wipptal.at/klettern-st-jodok/

description

Abseilpiste: 4 x 30m und 1 x 10m Expressschlingen: 13 außer bei Frischluft 17

approche

Parken am Klettersteigparkplatz in St. Jodok Ortsmitte.

Der Beschilderung zum Klettersteig folgen. Am letzten Haus rechts zur der kleinen Kapelle und dann links an roten Bank vorbei in den Wald. Dort weißt ein Schild "Drytooling Kletterrouten" den Weg.

éthique

Sportklettermäßig mit Bohrhaken eingerichtet. Stände mit Ketten und mehreren Haken eingerichtet. Die Routen sind zum Teil mit geschlagenen Griffen und gebohrten Löchern zum Drytoolen.

Summary:

8 routes in Area

45-60 minutes Gneiss Approche raide

La plupart Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.043916, 11.639586

Summary:

1 route in Area

Tous Alpinisme

Lat / Long: 47.052229, 11.660304

Summary:

19 routes in Crag

Granite 30-45 minutes Déversant Dalle Vertical Nord Nord-est Nord-ouest

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.047324, 11.618902

résumé

A relatively new crag with great climbing on edges, slopers and cracks.

approche

Drive into the Wipptal and turn left into the Valsertal in St. Jodok. At the end of the valley, park near the Zeischalm. Follow the trail to the ropeway for material transport of the Gärer hut. From there follow the faint trail to the sectors Eigerblick and a bit further to Kolosseum and Stollenloch. For the sector Moniland please see there.

Summary:

12 routes in Sector

Summary:

7 routes in Sector

Summary:

7 routes in Cliff

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 47.040390, 11.589863

description

A small cliff not far from the crag Alterertal.

approche

Approach by car same as for Alterertal. From the parking follow the forest road but take a right before you criss the creek. Stay right of the creek (hiking up) until you reach a bridge. Cross it and follow the trail to the cliff.

Zillertaler Alpen Guide

Table of contents

1. Zillertaler Alpen

1.1. Zillertal

1.1.1. Ramsau

1.1.2. Pöllstein

1.1.3. Mayrhofen

1.1.4. Zillergrund

1.1.5. Monkey Island

Accès: Seasonal Closure

1.1.6. Sitcom Area

1.1.7. Total Brutal

1.1.8. Zemmschlucht

1.1.9. Bachhexe

1.1.10. Saustein Boulders

1.1.11. Saustein

1.1.12. Ginzling

1.1.13. Roßklamm

1.1.14. Die Freien Sprünge

1.1.15. Drei Könige Nordwestwand

1.1.16. Gigalitz

1.1.17. Rinderschrofn

1.1.18. Krawallwandl

1.1.19. Grischlmühle

1.1.20. Toiflsmühle

1.1.21. Jägerwand

1.1.22. Gschlössl

1.1.23. Roßhag Wasserfall

Accès: Seasonal Closure from beginning of June to end of September!

1.1.24. Igent

1.1.25. Roßhag

1.1.26. Kuckucksfels

1.1.27. Grawand

1.1.28. Galerie

1.1.29. Los Lochos

1.1.30. Asser Alm

1.1.31. Kaseler Alm

1.1.32. Burg

1.1.33. Karlkopf

1.1.34. Tulfer

Accès: Closed annually from 02. October to 31. May

1.1.35. Ewige Jagdgründe

1.1.36. Wieglwand

1.1.37. Breitlahner

1.1.38. Zwieselkopf

1.1.39. Berliner Hütte

1.1.40. Spiegelwand

1.1.41. Schlegeis Dam

1.1.42. Kletterzentrum Zillertal

1.1.43. Wildgerlostal

1.1.44. Zsigmondyspitze

1.2. Valsertal

1.2.1. Fußstein

1.2.2. Schrammacher

1.2.3. Sagwandspitze

1.2.4. Hohe Kirche

1.2.5. Hohe Wand

1.2.6. Stafflacher Wand

1.2.7. Klettergarten Geraer Hütte

1.2.8. Olperer

1.3. Alterertal

1.3.1. Eigerblick

1.3.2. Stollenloch

1.4. Moniland