Ascensions dans Götterwandl

Softest 8b around, climbs nicely though. IMO easier than Uranus. 2nd session this year, tried it a couple of times over the years and last year it was wet all the time. <20 moves from the no-hand to the top, very enjoyable power endurance. This really is the end of my grade sky-scraper

dump fall on my onsight try

#withoutkneepad

Tried it a couple of times at the very end of the session. Today was the first time i tried it earlier. <10 goes in total (4th go today). For me, this felt a lot easier than Ares.

Video: https://youtu.be/ukm8wVEAs5o?si=gF_TZ82JSM3Cd6rD It’s been more than five years since I first tried the route “Clash of the Titans” back home in Tirol which was first climbed by Alex Megos in 2017. Alex graded it 9a+ back then but to me it always felt substantially harder than that. I’ve done quite a few 9a+ and also 9bs but none of them took as much effort as this route. However, after I finally sent rather quickly last year I wasn’t sure anymore if it really deserves an upgrade making me hesitant to publish the ascent and have a clear opinion on the grade. After all, the route doesn’t fit my preferred style, which is crimping, but there are quite a few open handholds on this one, which gave me a hard time. Earlier this year, the opportunity came up to go back together with Stefano Ghisolfi who checked out the route as well and gave his opinion. Check out the video on my YT channel to find out more.

Chapter closed. 5 months of projecting. Unfortunately, no count on the sessions but off the top of my head I count over 25 different people who belayed me on this route, I think that's about 20 sessions. Big thanks to all belayers. I am sure this route is on the softer side, and once I found the kneebar in the rest I was sure it's 8a+ but then it took me another 10+ sessions. Once again on the day of the send I changed my beta again after falling on the cross (after the reach) 6 times and sent it next go (bump right hand to jug with drop knee).

Hard route with an even harder name to pronounce. Finally done, tired it the first time 1.5 years ago, but never seriously. Without nohand rest on the slab!

First 8a+. 17 sessions in one season, 54 goes. Power endurance, almost no rest and no really hard move. Amazing route that taught me a lot. I had a high point in the 6th session where I though that I would climb it soon. Little did I know it would take me 7 more sessions to reach that point again and then 4 more for the send. Turns out sometimes you climb the strongest (6th session) when you are mentally in a really bad state. In the last session I also changed my beta for the top part.

Nice power endurance boulder

Finally. Started trying the route last July but then went for Apollo instead. Today it went down on my 4. try.

Finally. Quite the struggle, 3rd go today. Started projecting last August, came really close but fell from the last moves and had to pause due to temperatures getting too low. Around 9 sessions started when 7c was above my Max, and finished now that 7c is below my current max.

#2ndgo

5th try, maybe 8c+/9a

#2ndgo, maybe 8c+

8b+/c; already fell in love with this powerendurancy line last year without touching the holds by just belaying and after bouldering up once I dreamed about coming back the whole winter! What a journey of mostly continious progress by finding all these little tricks and right bodypositions to stay on the wall while coming from the ground! Took me about 10 tries to stick the far crux move the first time and was lucky to stay calm till the chains with a fresh speedy flow that day:)

Amazing linkup from 'Uranus' into the pumpy "Ares"! Bouldered up once last year but couldn't figure out a solution for the first far move... found a super highfoot with whom it surprisingly worked to clipp the chains of this natural beauty the next go:)

Not an as relaxed walk as we thought;)

1st go; fun combi and great alternative when you're too tired to give another go in your project;) start Apollo into Hertuna00

8b/+ Quick business with my last years nemisis (had a 5sec hang at the same shouldermove about 10 times), powerendurancy on mostly chipped holds but the moves are surpringly good! Luckily, the wind blew me up during the send as well as the support I've got from Kevin:)

somewhen in june