Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | Grimpeur | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Jeu 6 Juin 2024 - Hahntennjoch | |||||||
Falscher Kogel, South face Kamin | |||||||
5b ~5b+ | Chimney to heaven | 20m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Steinschlaggefahr für Sichernden!
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Sam 18 Mai 2024 - Nassereith | |||||||
Tieftal | |||||||
5b |
★★ Rolling Stones P1
1
5b
35
| 35m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
with an ACL tear
|
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5a | ★★ Platenigl | 90m, 33 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
with an ACL tear
|
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4b |
★★ Sammersteig
1
3a
34m
2
4b
29m
3
3c
29m
| 92m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
with an ACL tear
|
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Sam 4 Mai 2024 - Nassereith | |||||||
Götterwandl | |||||||
8b | ★★★ Odysseus | 10m | |||||
Softest 8b around, climbs nicely though. IMO easier than Uranus. 2nd session this year, tried it a couple of times over the years and last year it was wet all the time. <20 moves from the no-hand to the top, very enjoyable power endurance. This really is the end of my grade sky-scraper
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Dim 7 Avr 2024 - Nassereith | |||||||
Sparchet Hard Rock | |||||||
6b | ★★ Spreizfuß | 35m, 2 | |||||
erste SL nach dem plattigen Start einfach (mB 5b) – 2 SL bis zum letzten Bohrhaken (ultra)schöne und leicht zu durschauende Verschneidungskletterei (5b) dann eine knackige Einzelstelle (6b) zum Umlenker – EMPFEHLUNG
|
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6a ~6a+ | ★★ Grauvieh | Dans la moyenne | |||||
knackige kurze Piazroute
|
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6b | ★★ Nirvana — 2 essais | 22m, 11 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
eine Traumroute – Gute Griffe, technisch anspruchsvoll – Am großen Glatten Aufschwung leicht rechts haltend vorbei
|
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6b | ★★ Hard Rock Cafe | 21m, 14 | ★ Bon | ||||
Griffe und Route sind schwer zu lesen – nicht so schön wie Nirvana
|
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Dim 7 Avr 2024 - Nassereith | |||||||
Sparchet Eis am Stiel | |||||||
5a+ ~5b | ★ Goldfinger | 25m | |||||
die schönste der leichten Routen – sehr abwechslungsreich
|
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5c ~5b | ★★ Fearewind | 25m, 12 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
unten sehr leicht, oben leichter als Kattl’s Löcher
|
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5b ~5c | ★★ Kattl´s Löcher | 25m, 13 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
unten sehr leicht, oben schwerer als Fearwind
|
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5a+ ~5b+ | ★★ Echt haasisch | 25m, 16 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
(unten sehr leicht (4c), oben eine plattige schwere Stelle (5b+))
|
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5b ~5c | ★ Kalte Kante | 15m | ★ Bon | ||||
sehr abgespeckt - kurz und knackig
|
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Dim 31 Mars 2024 - Gaichtel | |||||||
6b+ | ★★★ Kleine Magdalena - avec RockrockerMo | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Really nice long route. The difficult part is in the white stone part, first 10m. The rest is good read and rest in good places. Delicious.
|
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Sam 30 Mars 2024 - Walchenbach | |||||||
3a | Kurz und Bündig | 5m | |||||
Location: 47.274329514257246, 10.782607539877967
Time: 15:41:32
Climb Duration: 00:17:02
Max. Heart Rate: 121BPM
Height: 12,99m
Tracked with Redpoint for Apple Watch. |
|||||||
4a | Via delle Guide | 15m | |||||
Location: 47.274329514257246, 10.782607539877967
Time: 14:40:56
Climb Duration: 01:30:51
Max. Heart Rate: 138BPM
Height: 16,62m
Tracked with Redpoint for Apple Watch. |
|||||||
3c | Putzelchen | 10m | |||||
Location: 47.274182589670644, 10.782428334658041
Time: 14:49:28
Climb Duration: 00:07:01
Max. Heart Rate: 149BPM
Height: 11,67m
Tracked with Redpoint for Apple Watch. |
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Sam 30 Mars 2024 - Gaichtel | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Wurmloch - avec Fabio | ★★★ Classique | |||||
Wohooo
|
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Sam 30 Mars 2024 - Walchenbach | |||||||
3c | Putzelchen | 10m | |||||
Location: 47.274182589670644, 10.782428334658041
Time: 14:04:20
Climb Duration: 00:19:43
Max. Heart Rate: 158BPM
Height: 7,38m
Tracked with Redpoint for Apple Watch. |
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Sam 30 Mars 2024 - Gaichtel | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ No Problem - avec Wiebke P | ★★ Excellent | |||||
Cool!
|
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6a | ★★ Schotterfalle - avec Wiebke P | 28m | ★ Bon | ||||
Lang.
|
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Ven 29 Mars 2024 - Gaichtel | |||||||
6b | ★★ No woman no cry - avec Tom B | ||||||
Einzelstelle
|
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6c | ★★ Corona (Bier oder Krise) — 2 essais - avec Wiebke P | 30m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Am Fels steht 6c+, aber das passt glaub schon so hier. Wird zum Ende immer leichter. Hat sogar einen no feet rest 😎
|
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6b+ | ★★★ Kleine Magdalena - avec Wiebke P | 30m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Sehr geil.
|
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6b | ★★ No woman no cry - avec Wiebke P | ★ Bon | |||||
Hat eine schöne Sequenz, die pressig endet. Rest deutlich einfacher.
|
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5c+ | ★★ Stiller Räuber - avec Wiebke P | ★ Bon | |||||
Bisschen besser als die rechts. Etwas weniger Geröll.
|
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Dim 17 Mars 2024 - Gaichtel | |||||||
7b | ★★ Speck und Nase — 3 essais | ★★ Excellent | |||||
One move wonder!
|
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7a | ★★ Mami onsight — 3 essais | ★★ Excellent | |||||
Pumpy but good!
|
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7a ~6c | ★ The show must go on | ★ Bon | |||||
Slabby!
|
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Lun 11 Mars 2024 - Gaichtel | |||||||
7a+ Facile | ★★★ Good Vibrations — 2 essais - avec Timo | ★★ Excellent | |||||
Spaßige Tour mit cooler Crux
|
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Sam 9 Mars 2024 - Gaichtel | |||||||
6b | ★ Staubtrocken — 2 essais - avec Anna | ★ Bon | |||||
Tricky start
|
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7c ~7b+ | ★ Liebe Laster Leidenschaft — 3 essais - avec Anna | ||||||
Nice moves in good holds!
|
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6c+ ~6c | ★★★ Leider Geil - avec Anna | ★★★ Super classique | |||||
Good rock quality!
|
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Dim 3 Mars 2024 - Gaichtel | |||||||
7a+ | ★★ Klimawandel — 2 essais - avec Anna | ★★★ Classique | |||||
Beautiful! Feels better than it looks Like .
|
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Dim 25 Fév 2024 - Gaichtel | |||||||
7a+ | ★★★ Fake News | ★★★ Classique | |||||
Very nice finish!
|
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7a+ | ★★ il Coccodrillo — 2 essais - avec mcanna | ★★★ Classique | |||||
Cool; slipped in the First attempt.
|
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6a | ★ Schokofee - avec Anna | Dans la moyenne | |||||
Strange top. Dirty.
|
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Sam 24 Fév 2024 - Gaichtel | |||||||
7c | ★★★ Stairway to Heaven | ★★★ Classique | |||||
Quite Bouldery!
|
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7a Facile | ★★★ Wurmloch | ★★★ Super classique | |||||
Very nice!
|
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Sam 3 Fév 2024 - Gaichtel | |||||||
6c | ★★ Corona (Bier oder Krise) - avec Anna | 30m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Classic!
|
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6a+ | Feenstaub — 2 essais - avec Anna | Dans la moyenne | |||||
Some holds were wet, making the route quiete hard for the grade.
|
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7a+ ~7a | ★★★ Bloody Mary — 2 essais - avec Anna | ★★★ Classique | |||||
Could be harder after a good hold of the crux broke. Additionally, some footholds broke, too.
|
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6b | ★★ Rettet die Auerhähne - avec Anna | ★★ Excellent | |||||
Tricky!
|
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7a+ ~7a | ★★★ Good Vibrations | ★★★ Classique | |||||
Crux after 2/3 of the route.
|
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6b | ★★ Rettet die Auerhähne | ★★ Excellent | |||||
Nice route. Bolted in slight zickzack.
|
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6a Difficile | ★ Schokofee | ★ Bon | |||||
Nice route but very sandy.
|
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Dim 28 Jan 2024 - Gaichtel | |||||||
6b | ★★ No woman no cry - avec Anna | Dans la moyenne | |||||
Just a single crux.
|
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7a+ ~7a | ★★★ Bloody Mary - avec Anna | ★★★ Classique | |||||
Was wet but it is a nice route.
|
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Dim 28 Jan 2024 - Nassereith | |||||||
Sparchet Hard Rock | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Sugardaddy (First Pitch) | 21m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Geile route, würd ich gerne machen
|
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Mer 24 Jan 2024 - Nassereith | |||||||
Götterwandl | |||||||
8a+ | ★★★ Osiris — 2 essais | 15m | |||||
dump fall on my onsight try
|
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Mar 19 Déc 2023 - Gaichtel | |||||||
7b Facile | ★★ Speck und Nase — 2 essais - avec Timo | ★★ Excellent | |||||
Zwar definiert, aber sehr coole Bewegung.
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Lun 20 Nov. 2023 - Gaichtel | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Wurmloch — 2 essais - avec Corbinian Freudig | ★★★ Super classique | |||||
Beautiful & wet it was
|
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Ven 20 Oct. 2023 - Gaichtel | |||||||
6c ~6c | ★★ Speck und Nase | ★ Bon | |||||
Nicht über die definierte Variante gemacht und somit natürlich leichter.
|
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Sam 14 Oct. 2023 - Nassereith | |||||||
Sparchet Eis am Stiel | |||||||
5a+ | ★ Goldfinger | 25m | ★ Bon | ||||
Gute Aufwärmroute. Wollt ihr alle Haken einhängen, braucht ihr bestimmt 17 Expressschlingen
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Sam 16 Sept 2023 - Nassereith | |||||||
Tieftal | |||||||
4a | ★★ Sonntagsspaziergang - avec Guido | 99m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Geklettert in Zustiegsschuhen - damit werden der dritte und vierte Grad deutlich schwerer.
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Ven 1 Sept 2023 - Nassereith | |||||||
Tieftal | |||||||
4b | ★★ Sammersteig | 92m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Fantastic multipitch
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Ven 1 Sept 2023 - Hahntennjoch | |||||||
Falscher Kogel, South face Musikpfeiler | |||||||
7b+ | ★★ Monophonie — 2 essais | 25m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Relatively easy after finding the holds in the crux overhang
|
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6c+ | Tutto live | 20m | Pas la peine | ||||
Sandbag or hard to read
|
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Sam 1 Juil 2023 - Muttekopfhütte | |||||||
Maldonkopf Engelkatturm Ostseite | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Engelpfeiler | 150m, 10 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
In 3er Seilschaft.
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Dim 25 Juin 2023 - Nassereith | |||||||
Götterwandl | |||||||
8b+ | ★★★ Janus | 25m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Mar 30 Mai 2023 - Walchenbach | |||||||
5a+ Difficile | Strader Weg — 2 essais | 10m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Just an hard passage that took me a while to figure it out.
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Sam 20 Mai 2023 - Nassereith | |||||||
Sparchet Hard Rock | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Sugardaddy (First Pitch) | 21m | ★★★ Super classique | ||||
Sehr schöne Route
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Lun 1 Mai 2023 - Starkenbach | |||||||
Popeye | |||||||
6a Difficile | ★★ Gameboy — 3 essais - avec Katrin Zangerle | 15m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Worked on it for several sessions. My first real 6a Red Point!
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Dim 30 Avr 2023 - Starkenbach | |||||||
Popeye | |||||||
5b | Ohne Namen | 18m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Just one passage is a bit harder. But overall not the best route of the area.
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Sam 22 Avr 2023 - Burschlwand | |||||||
6a ~6c | 300 | 25m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Also ne 6a war das mal safe nicht. Weite Hakenabstände, Crux war für mich ne 6c, der Rest 6a+/6b. Keine schöne logische Linie, viele kleine crimps, sehr steil. Rapidglied hing auch drin, empfand nicht nur ich als schwerer
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Sam 18 Fév 2023 - Nassereith | |||||||
Sparchet Goldenes Dachl | |||||||
6a+ Difficile | ★★ Ice Age - avec Astrid | 20m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Quite hard first third.
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Sam 18 Fév 2023 - Nassereith | |||||||
Sparchet Hard Rock | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Sugardaddy (First Pitch) — 3 essais - avec Astrid | 21m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Working, bouldering, sending.
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Dim 27 Nov. 2022 - Nassereith | |||||||
Sparchet Goldenes Dachl | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Luky Lu - avec Gabi | 34m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Dafür, dass ich einhänge, geht es echt gut. Absolut machbar nächstes mal.
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6a+ | ★★ Am Limit - avec Gabi | 15m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Schönes Aufwärmen, eine knackige Sequenz.
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Lun 10 Oct. 2022 - Nassereith | |||||||
Götterwandl | |||||||
8a | Pluto | ||||||
Tried it a couple of times at the very end of the session. Today was the first time i tried it earlier. <10 goes in total (4th go today). For me, this felt a lot easier than Ares.
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Lun 3 Oct. 2022 - Nassereith | |||||||
Götterwandl | |||||||
9a+ ~9b | Clash of the Titans | ||||||
Video: https://youtu.be/ukm8wVEAs5o?si=gF_TZ82JSM3Cd6rD
It’s been more than five years since I first tried the route “Clash of the Titans” back home in Tirol which was first climbed by Alex Megos in 2017. Alex graded it 9a+ back then but to me it always felt substantially harder than that. I’ve done quite a few 9a+ and also 9bs but none of them took as much effort as this route. However, after I finally sent rather quickly last year I wasn’t sure anymore if it really deserves an upgrade making me hesitant to publish the ascent and have a clear opinion on the grade. After all, the route doesn’t fit my preferred style, which is crimping, but there are quite a few open handholds on this one, which gave me a hard time. Earlier this year, the opportunity came up to go back together with Stefano Ghisolfi who checked out the route as well and gave his opinion. Check out the video on my YT channel to find out more.
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Ven 30 Sept 2022 - Nassereith | |||||||
Götterwandl | |||||||
8b | ★★★ Uranus | 20m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Chapter closed. 5 months of projecting. Unfortunately, no count on the sessions but off the top of my head I count over 25 different people who belayed me on this route, I think that's about 20 sessions. Big thanks to all belayers. I am sure this route is on the softer side, and once I found the kneebar in the rest I was sure it's 8a+ but then it took me another 10+ sessions. Once again on the day of the send I changed my beta again after falling on the cross (after the reach) 6 times and sent it next go (bump right hand to jug with drop knee).
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Mer 14 Sept 2022 - Starkenbach | |||||||
Zauberlehrling | |||||||
4c | ★★ Soha - avec Sabine | 17m | ★ Bon | ||||
Falsche Reihenfolge in "Thecrag".
Die Route ist zwischen Vierklee und Funfuhrtee.
|
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6a+ | ★★ Sylvesterkante | 36m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Achtung man braucht 15 Expressen
|
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Sam 20 Août 2022 - Muttekopfhütte | |||||||
Guggerköpfle | |||||||
4+ |
★★ Heppke Vitale
| 150m, 14 | |||||
exit after pitch 4
|
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Mer 17 Août 2022 - Latschenturm | |||||||
Wegseite | |||||||
6c | ★★★ Orpheus - avec Klara Sinha | 15m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Schöner kleiner Boulder
|
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Mer 17 Août 2022 - Nassereith | |||||||
Tieftal | |||||||
6a |
★★ Leben im Sonnenschein
1
4c
18m
2
5a+
30m
3
6a
30m
4
5a
27m
| 110m, 15 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Nur erste Seillänge.
|
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Lun 15 Août 2022 - Walchenbach | |||||||
5a | Rapunzel | 10m | Pas la peine | ||||
Easy warm up, but some of the rock looks weak. Be careful!
Traverses considerably, be prepared to have 'fun' back cleaning, or have the 2nd clean it. |
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4b | Via Helga - avec Henk Dam | 10m | Dans la moyenne | ||||
A short but nice warm up. Good, but somewhat reachy holds.
|
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Jeu 11 Août 2022 - Walchenbach | |||||||
5a+ | ★★★ Sparkassen Riss | 10m | |||||
Broke off a foot hold still plenty left
|
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Mer 10 Août 2022 - Muttekopfhütte | |||||||
Eisenhut | |||||||
6a | Ironman | 20m | |||||
Nicht ganz klar ob das die war oder nebendran Via Eva
|
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6a | Ironman | 20m | |||||
Nicht ganz klar ob das die war oder nebendran Via Eva
|
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Mer 10 Août 2022 - Muttekopfhütte | |||||||
Guggerköpfle | |||||||
4+ |
★★ Heppke Vitale
1
35
2
30
3
35
4
30
| 130m, 14 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Retreated before pitch 5. Very nice traverse climbing and good rock!
|
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Mer 10 Août 2022 - Starkenbach | |||||||
Zauberlehrling | |||||||
6b | ★★ Zauberlehrling | 20m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Puuh war viel zu heiss, ein wenig abgespeckt und müde Arme.
|
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Mar 28 Juin 2022 - Putzen | |||||||
6a | ★ Shanti | 15m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
The most enjoyable route I did in the area. Fun moves beside a waterfall.
Topo looks like this route has a separate anchor to Palu however after much hunting I must assume they actually share the last bolt and anchor.
|
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Jeu 23 Juin 2022 - Muttekopfhütte | |||||||
Maldonkopf Engelkarturm Südseite | |||||||
6- | ★★ Paznaunerweg | 130m, 10 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Schöne abwechslungsreiche Route mit originellem Kamin!
|
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Sam 4 Juin 2022 - Starkenbach | |||||||
Zauberlehrling | |||||||
6a | ★★ Merlin - avec sabine | 40m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Sehr schöne Route.
|
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4c | ★★ Kaminkehrer - avec sabine | 20m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Klassisch Kaminkletterei. Alternativ obere Hälfte an der Kante gehen. Etwas abgespeckt.
|
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Ven 13 Mai 2022 - Nassereith | |||||||
Götterwandl | |||||||
7b | ★ Jarson u.d. Argonauten | 10m | |||||
Hard route with an even harder name to pronounce. Finally done, tired it the first time 1.5 years ago, but never seriously. Without nohand rest on the slab!
|
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Dim 27 Mars 2022 - Burschlwand | |||||||
6a 6+ | ★★ Papilion - avec Katrin | 130m, 14 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Routenverlauf ist leider etwas unübersichtlich, sodass wir plötzlich in der Route Peacemaker waren und uns wunderten, dass die Kletterei plötzlich so schwer ist
|
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Dim 13 Fév 2022 - Nassereith | |||||||
Sparchet Goldenes Dachl | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Luky Lu - avec kasi_fantasi | 34m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Erarbeiten, erste Crux für mich nach einem Drittel. Superschöne Tour.
|
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7a | ★★★ Luky Lu - avec kasi_fantasi | 34m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Erstaunlicherweise bis ins gelbe Finale gekommen, da aber ziemlich chancenlos, trotz langem Rest davor.
|
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7a | ★★★ Luky Lu - avec kasi_fantasi | 34m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Schon sehr platt im letzten Sonnenlicht. Ich komme wieder, wenn ich fitter für das harte Ende bin ;-)
|
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Dim 19 Déc 2021 - Nassereith | |||||||
Sparchet Hard Rock | |||||||
7a | ★★★ Sugardaddy (First Pitch) - avec kathyclimbing | 21m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Gleich nochmal im Nachstieg, der Schatten ist schneller 😉
|
|||||||
7a | ★★★ Sugardaddy (First Pitch) - avec kathyclimbing | 21m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Erarbeiten, erscheint machbar.
|
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6b | ★★ Nirvana - avec kathyclimbing | 22m, 11 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Zwei tolle spannende Stellen, musste ich mir genau ausgucken.
|
|||||||
6b | ★★ Hard Rock Cafe - avec kathyclimbing | 21m, 14 | ★★★ Classique | ||||
Knackig, anhaltend, abwechslungsreich.
|
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Sam 20 Nov. 2021 - Starkenbach | |||||||
Affenhimmel | |||||||
6b | ★ Sisyphus | 20m | ★ Bon | ||||
Leider schon sehr stark abgeklettert
|
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7a 6c+ to 7a | ★ Via Utopia | 20m | ★ Bon | ||||
Leider schon sehr stark abgeklettert
|