Noeud |
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Acephale |
The Junction
The first wall you will see apon gaining Acephale. The Juction seperates upper wall to lower wall. The climbing here is defintely worth the time. |
The Junction |
5.12b
★★ Bucking Horse
Start to the left of the dirty flake. If you persist through the rotten bottom, you’ll be rewarded with an endless stretch of great climbing above. |
5.12b
★★★ Hickory Dickory Dock
Using the dirty flake head straight up and over the ledge to a no hands rest. Punch last two fixed draws to a rest out left. Motor to the top. Classic |
5.12c
★★ Duck Bill
Climb Hickory Dickory Dock to bolt four on the rest and trend left. Difficult climbing leads to a boulder problem below the anchor. |
5.12d
★★ Go Ask Alice
Start to the left of the yellow streak. Easyish climbing to an excellent rest is followed by increasingly difficult moves and clips up the blank wall. Surf around and finish with a tricky mantle. |
5.12b
★★ Lose Yourself
none |
5.11c
★ Nitro light
An excellent technical warm up punctuated by jugs. |
5.12c
★ Nitro
A hardish boulder problem leads to a very fun airy easy finish. |
5.11a
★★ Go Light
Link up. Worth doing for a warm up. Start on Go Ask Alice, climb the vert tech and traverse in right on buckets after the 4th bolt and clip the anchor of Nitro Light. |
Lower Wall - Sea of Holes |
Lower Wall - Sea of Holes |
5.11d
★★ Approach Route
Stick clip the 1st bolt. Excellent movement in the blue rock with a great heel hook crux going over the lip. 11c/d |
5.13c ★ Pandora |
5.12a
★★ Pluvial Power
Start below a yellow ledge. Follow long moves to awesome pockets up the steep wall, switch gears over the clean face climb above |
5.12a
★ Static Dynos
Sustained pumpy big moves ends at the lip of the wall. Switch gears and crimp away on a featureless clean slab. |
Project |
Lower Wall Left |
Lower Wall Left |
5.10c ★★ Keys in the Car |
5.10d ★★ Nickel Bag |
5.11a Nickel Bag (Direct Start) |
5.12a
★★ Girl Drink Drunk
Sketchy now with the ground level eroded away by the flood. Needs a new first bolt |
5.12a ★★ The Irradicator |
5.12a ★★ Illy Down |
5.12d
★ Ice-Cream Head
Sketchy now with the ground level eroded away by the flood. Needs a new first bolt |
5.12a
★ Subbacultcha
Sketchy now with the ground level eroded away by the flood. Needs a new first bolt |
5.13a
Ice Cream Head direct start
Sketchy now with the ground level eroded away by the flood. Needs a new first bolt |
5.13b Conception |
5.12c Underestimated |
5.12b Chawesome Corner |
5.12c Gumbino Invasion |
5.13a Eidolons |
5.11a Sol Food |
5.11b Fresh Cut |
5.12b Casanova |
5.12b Sport Yoga |
Lower Wall Right |
Lower Wall Right |
5.11d ★ Justine |
5.12c ★ La Part Maudite |
5.13b
★★★ Naissance de la Femme
Spectacular, technical climbing on bullet limestone, rises in difficulty. One of the best of the grade in the country. |
5.12c ★★ Deal With It |
5.11b ★ Neoconstructionist |
5.13c ★ Wet Lust |
5.11d
★★ Neo-Mom
Neoconstructionist for a few bolts, two bolts for the traverse right, then finish on upper section of Where's Mom? |
5.12a
★★ Where's Mom?
Technical climbing up nice rock with 2 cruxy moves. 3 rests and powerful climbing to finish. |
5.12d ★★★ Nemo |
5.13a ★★ The Dark Half |
5.12c ★★ S.R.16 |
5.13a ★★ Last Dance |
5.11d ★★ S.R. 16 (Short Version) |
5.12c ★★ The Dark Dance |
Right from the Junction |
Right from the Junction |
5.12c ★★ Hypochrondriac |
5.12c ★★ The Two Towers |
5.12c
Quail
Start on Hypochondriac. After moving past the 4th bolt above the ledge climb up the corners left side to the overhanging wall above. |
Upper Wall - The Mirror Stage |
Upper Wall - The Mirror Stage |
5.12c
★ Le Jeu Lugubre
Climb between two prominent holes to a crux just before the third bolt. Traverse right on good holds to a couple of hard moves below the anchor. |
5.12d
★★★ Swelltone Theatre
Start off the left end of the ledge and traverse left backcleaning quickdraws to reduce rope drag. This long, beautiful climb features a rare body length tufa and a high and pumpy crux. |
5.13b
★★ Five Hole goal
Climb immediately right of Swelltone Theatre- ascending onto a ledge, backcleaning quickdraws to reduce drag. Shallow pockets in bulging grey stone define the cruxes. |
5.12b R ★ Full Fathom Five |
5.12b
★★★ Le Bleu du Ciel
After climbing through initial Choss, follow the left hand bolt line past a Hueco. The crux pulls a small roof below the anchor |
5.12b
★★ Le Stade du Miroir
Climb Le Bleu Du Ciel to the third bolt before trending right on sustained pockets and pods that lead over small ledges. Pumpy and powerful climbing! |
5.12c Project for a Materialist Sport Climb |
Upper Wall - Bataille
The blue, grey and yellow streaks that color the Upper Wall are littered with interesting features- hosting a great selection of pockets, pods, pinches and edges. Hardest crag in Canada. |
Upper Wall - Bataille |
5.12a
★★ Falling sideways
New one at Upper Wall. Start on a boulder left of Bataille. |
5.11b
★★ Bataille
Starts to the left of The Warm Up- between two boulders on the ledge. Head up the grey and yellow streaks to the chains. |
5.11b
★ Dale's Extender
Climb the warm up or Bataille following a pockets line of bolts to the left and finish at a long chain anchor |
5.13b
★★ The Angry Inch
From the top of Dales Extender, execute one really hard move off a mono. This route might be a very fast tick if you have tendons of steel! It might also end your climbing season...... |
5.11a
★ The Warm-Up
Not a great warm up but its all there is. Perma draws also which is nice. Start at the bottom of the small, left trending ramp and follow the blue streak to the anchor. |
5.13c
★ Porthole to Hell
Climb The Warm-Up then follow a blue streak through a scoop on thin holds above. Gun for a big hole in the yellow rock and then run it out on easy terrain to the top. |
5.13c
★★★ Sweet Thing
This popular line is a good introduction to the harder climbing at the crag. Start to the left of a shallow, right-facing corner and follow a blue streak to two cruxes separated by a poor rest. |
5.13c
★★★ Whale Back
Follow a small blue streak to a roof. Beautiful climbing on pockets and pods lead to an amazing crux pulling onto the "whale back". Finish on a steep headwall. |
5.12d
★★★ Jingus Americanus
Seriously, Yankees go home....jks. But seriously don't bring your ego to Acephale tourists The most popular 12D in Alberta. Polished, steep, pumpy and short. From the ledge, climb over a chossy section into a (12b) crimpy move, gaining a corner. The "crux" is at the top of the corner and involves a big slap to a sloper from a pocket. Part of the difficulty in this route is clipping the chains, so if you want the 12D tick, don't but any long draws or slings on the anchor!! FAists words. |
5.13d
★ Fully Jingus
Climb Jingus Americanus to the big slap move. Veer left on pods to hard moves on small holds slapping up the bulge. |
5.12c
★★ Copocobana
Start to the left of a yellow corner capped by a roof. From the ledge, pull the roof and head left into a scoop. Continue left to a finish on Jingus Americanus. |
5.14d
★ Full Nelson
Climb Half Nelson but continue up beautiful grey rock to an impossible looking crux. |
5.12d
★★ Half Nelson
Climb a small right facing corner before pulling a short overlap to reach two bolts worth of compact grey rock. Trend left on pockets to finish on the anchor of Jingus Americanus. |
5.13b
★★ The Hype
Start to the right of a yellow corner capped by a roof. Follow the blue streak on edges and pockets to a high crux. Manufactured and glued. |
5.13b
★★ The Hood
From the shattered ledge, head up to the horizontal break and veer left. Difficult moves in the overhanging lead into a scoop. Finish with easier climbing on cool pockets. This boulder problem is probably the most tried 5.13 in Alberta. Basically a v8 boulder problem. |
5.13c
★★ Hairball
Retro bolting has eliminated 2 cruxes (clips), and it is now easier than when first climbed. Plus it is actually worth climbing now, as before it was a turd. |
5.12c
★★ Altius
This classic has continuously powerful all the way to the bathtub rail. Finish up a small corner |
5.14a
★★ Angst
This is the left most route out of the small cave. Finish on the anchors of Altius |
5.13d
★★ Hairball Direct Finish
A heinously blank and runout steep slab above Hairball. Tried by many strong lads over the years but took the worlds strongest fingers needed to free this line of nothing slab. |
5.13c
★★ Beam Me Up Scotty
Start in The middle of the chossy ledge and crimp upward to the roof. Big moves and cryptic footwork end with a wild swing. A few tough moves close the deal. |
5.14b
★★ The Shine
Climb directly out the centre of the steep overhang. A bouldery crux leads to the safety of large pods above |
5.14c
★★ Kinder Surprise
Climb out the right side of the steep overhang and directly into the desperate crux. At the headwall, finish up Bunda De Fore. |
5.14d
★★★ Bunda De Fora
Start on the right side of the chossy ledge. A very powerful crux negotiates the roof. |
5.14c
★★ Prime Time
Similar to its neighbors, Two powerful cruxes separated by a poor rest. |
5.14c
★★ First Flight
Climb through the first crux of Prime Time before traversing right and finishing up First Flight Direct Project. |
Upper Wall - The Pavement
The Pavement- the black blank wall right of the main cave area at Upper Wall. This wall hosts one of the hardest climbs in the Americas (Disbelief) 15B which took Adam Ondra multiple weeks to do. |
Upper Wall - The Pavement |
5.14b
★★ Leviathan
nope |
5.14b
★★ Existence Mundane
nope |
5.13d
★★ Endless Summer
Class for the grade! A must do, power enduro test piece. |
5.13c
★★★ Army Ants
Start to the left of a yellow streak. burly slaps up a small corner lead to a poor rest and a powerful crimpy section. If you're pumped the moves under the anchor will be heartbreaking. |
5.13d
★ Unknown Stunt Man
Start up Army Ants but make a vicious traverse right into a cool and cruxy dyno. If you fire it dont get too excited- the real redpoint crux lurks above. |
5.15b
★★ Disbelief
The direct start to The Unknown Stunt Man. To say this route has footholds as hand holds is a massive understatement! The foot-hand match crux spat Ondra off close to 20times. Hard 15b apparently |
5.13a
★★★ The 39 Steps
Sustained crimping off the ground leads to a midway shake, a dynamic move and a well deserved rest. If pumped the top will prove to be more problematic than anticipated. |
5.14a
★ Ojas
Difficult and technical edge climbing, punctuated by good rests, lead to an improbable looking finish the utilizes some grisly footholds. |
5.12d
★★★ Icebox Of Broken Dreams
Start this crimpy line left of a big tree growing two metres from the cliff. A tough bouldery start is followed by an interesting sequence on blankness. Mellow climbing follows before a final bulge redpoint crux. |
5.11c
★ La Pause Cafe
Start to the right of the big tree. Boulder up to some hidden holds over a small roof before causing baby blue stone to the anchor. |
5.12a
★ Retour au Travail
Ext to La Pause Cafe |