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Home Cliff Bouldering Guide

  • Contexte de la cotation : US
  • Photos : 2
  • Ascensions : 13

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Louis Rainville David Martin Jean-Claude Savard Jean-Maxime Dubois-Vachon Becky Drummond

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Home Cliff Bouldering 11 routes in Field

Summary:
J
F
M
A.
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Saison

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 45.526965, -75.972810

résumé

After the field move left , shortly after follow the stream up and left. You should reach main boulder shortly

Limitations de l'accès

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

hérité de Eardley Escarpment

éthique

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

hérité de Eardley Escarpment
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Warm Duck

FA: 2007

V2 Bloc
2 unknown 1

climb the corner

FA: 2008

V4/5 Bloc
3 Duck Soup

this line is just left on the other face of this boulder.

FA: 2007

V5 Bloc 5m
4 Nebula Traverse

finish on duck soup. traverse left starting on other face. Make a long move to make the transition on to the other face (duck soup) top out.

FA: 2009

V9 Bloc
5 Mega Project 1

project

BlocProjet
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Air Force One

air force one is very beta intensive to get the grade (see photo) youhave to get pocket with right hand and jump up and left to slopper and top out. video for Beta (02:25) https://youtu.be/3YF5E4tfbWo

FA: yves Gravelle, 2008

V10/11 Bloc
7 Air force one SDS

See beta in video Here on 2nd page https://www.instagram.com/p/COqpht9t0m-/?utm_medium=share_sheet

FA: Mai 2021

V11 Bloc
8 Air Force One Direct

same start but instead of getting pocket with right hand get it with left hand. some small crimp along the way for right hand and same top out as air force one.

FA: 2008

V8 Bloc
9 Air Force Direct

Similar to Air Force One Direct but uses holds a little further right, same for the dyno to the lip.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BpFghYJhKs-/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

V8 Bloc
10 Main Boulder Arete Project

climb right arete

BlocProjet
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Une Pointe De Huevo Dans Gatineau / La Pointe de Hueco a Gatineau

See video (03:05) https://youtu.be/3YF5E4tfbWo

FA: Yves Gravelle, 2008

V7 Bloc

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
V2 Warm Duck Bloc
V4/5 unknown 1 Bloc
V5 Duck Soup Bloc 5m
V7 Une Pointe De Huevo Dans Gatineau Bloc
V8 Air Force Direct Bloc
Air Force One Direct Bloc
V9 Nebula Traverse Bloc
V10/11 Air Force One Bloc
V11 Air force one SDS Bloc
? Main Boulder Arete Project BlocProjet
Mega Project 1 BlocProjet
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