A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Louis Rainville
David Martin
Jean-Claude Savard
Jean-Maxime Dubois-Vachon
Becky Drummond
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Home Cliff Bouldering 11 in Field
- 2. Index by grade
1. Home Cliff Bouldering 11 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
Tous Bloc
Lat / Long: 45.526965, -75.972810
résumé
After the field move left , shortly after follow the stream up and left. You should reach main boulder shortly
Limitations de l'accès
NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.
https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".
The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.
Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.
The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing
While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.
éthique
No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★★ Warm Duck
FA: 2007 | V2 | ||||||
2 |
★★ unknown 1
climb the corner FA: 2008 | V4/5 | ||||||
3 |
★★ Duck Soup
this line is just left on the other face of this boulder. FA: 2007 | V5 | 5m | |||||
4 |
Nebula Traverse
finish on duck soup. traverse left starting on other face. Make a long move to make the transition on to the other face (duck soup) top out. FA: 2009 | V9 | ||||||
5 |
Mega Project 1
project | |||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★★★ Air Force One
air force one is very beta intensive to get the grade (see photo) youhave to get pocket with right hand and jump up and left to slopper and top out. video for Beta (02:25) https://youtu.be/3YF5E4tfbWo FA: yves Gravelle, 2008 | V10/11 | ||||||
7 |
★★★ Air force one SDS
See beta in video Here on 2nd page https://www.instagram.com/p/COqpht9t0m-/?utm_medium=share_sheet FA: Mai 2021 | V11 | ||||||
8 |
Air Force One Direct
same start but instead of getting pocket with right hand get it with left hand. some small crimp along the way for right hand and same top out as air force one. FA: 2008 | V8 | ||||||
9 |
★★ Air Force Direct
Similar to Air Force One Direct but uses holds a little further right, same for the dyno to the lip. https://www.instagram.com/p/BpFghYJhKs-/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link | V8 | ||||||
10 |
Main Boulder Arete Project
climb right arete | |||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 |
★★ Une Pointe De Huevo Dans Gatineau / La Pointe de Hueco a Gatineau
See video (03:05) https://youtu.be/3YF5E4tfbWo FA: Yves Gravelle, 2008 | V7 |
2. Index by grade
Grade | ![]() |
Stars | Name | Style | Pop |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
V2 | ★★ | Warm Duck | |||
V4/5 | ★★ | unknown 1 | |||
V5 | ★★ | Duck Soup | 5m | ||
V7 | ★★ | Une Pointe De Huevo Dans Gatineau | |||
V8 | ★★ | Air Force Direct | |||
Air Force One Direct | |||||
V9 | Nebula Traverse | ||||
V10/11 | ★★★ | Air Force One | |||
V11 | ★★★ | Air force one SDS | |||
? | Main Boulder Arete Project | ||||
Mega Project 1 |