A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
David Gibbs Jean-Claude Savard Phil Price Jean-Michel Andy Sparks Noah Boudreau-Richard Idrifter
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Mont King / King Mountain 17 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Mont King 17 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Escalade traditionnelle et Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 45.487319, -75.865400
description
Mont King is one of the tallest continuous pieces of climbable rock on the Eardley escarpment at about 90m total height.
This cliff is currently (Spring 2011) closed by the NCC.
Limitations de l'accès
NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.
https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".
The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.
Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.
The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing
While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.
approche
At the intersection of Kelly Road and rue de la Montagne there is a gravel trail heading up the escarpment. Follow this trail a short way until you can see a stream, shortly before crossing a small trail will branch off to the right and go up some concrete steps. This trail will come back to the stream and follow with the stream to the left for a bit, up a few feet of rock, then it will cut back rightwards away from the stream. Continue on the trail, and the cliff should come into view after a few minutes walking through the woods. Scramble over the usual talus field to the base of the cliff, which brings you out near the base of the nose.
informations pour la descente
Rocketman has fixed anchors, allowing for rappels. The first one is about 32m (but to easy terrain) and the 2 lower ones go fine on a 60m rope. Otherwise there is a descent path to climbers-right of the cliff.
éthique
No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★★ Suzie-Q
This climb is the line of glue-in bolts up the face that is in front of you as you come up the approach trail. Start up the easy slab, to the first overhang. After pulling the first overhang, the climb is a bit run-out along easier ground to the 2nd overhang (crux). Pull this to lower-offs. FA: Martin Lajoie & Suzie Alain, 2008 | 5.11 | 20m, 6 | |||||
2 |
★★ M.S.M.
Start a few meters right of the access trail, up a set of glue-ins. Start up easy slab to steeper terrain, pull over the bulge to anchors. FA: Martin Lajoie & Suzie Alain, 2008 | 5.9 | 20m, 7 | |||||
3 |
★ The Nose
Start about 20m left of the obvious chimney start of Rocketman, at the lowest point of a slabby section of rock, immediately right of overhangs.
FA: John Cotter, Ron Halka & Dave Snow, 1985 | 5.4 | 25m | |||||
4 |
★★ Road Runner
Start almost at the same spot as The Nose, climb strait up to the tallest point of rock in front of you. A mixed (bolts and gear) route to the right of the nose. 2 bolts, 1 piton and a 2-bolt anchor. FA: Martin Lajoie & Suzie Alain, 2008 | 5.8 | 30m, 2 | |||||
5 |
Owl's Nest
Start 12m left of the obvious chimney (Rocketman), at the top of a steep drop in the trail at the base of the cliff.
FA: Stephen Adcock & Ron Halka, 1987 | 5.4 PG | 2 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★★ Ron's Climb
Start 5m left of the chimney (Rocketman), underneath the long leftwards sloping overhang. Climb up to the overhang. Layback up to an obvious break through the overhang. Traverse right to the base of a groove. Climb up the groove to ledges. (Rappel from the first belay station of Rocketman.) FA: Steve Adcock & Ron Halka, 1987 | 5.8 | 27m | |||||
7 |
★ Rocketman
Start at the obvious left-leaning chimney.
FA: S Adcock, D Buck & L Sowden, 1987 | 5.4 | 96m, 3 | |||||
8 |
Ming Finish Variation
Instead of traversing left on Rocketman, climb straight for the tree belay. FA: S.Baeylerian, J. Fillion & Y. Troutet, 1999 | 5.7 R | 10m | |||||
9 |
★★ Jack Ass
A line of (glue-in) bolts up the arrete right and around the corner from Rocketman. 3 Bolts at the bottom, then reaches easy ground (run-out, optional small gear), then up the up steeper ground (with bolts) again (5.9+?). Bolted anchor. Bottom part is really interesting, multiple variation up higher FA: Martin Lajoie & Yannick Girard, 2009 | 5.11 | 25m, 5 | |||||
10 |
Birdland
Start in the corner 10m right of the start of Rocketman.
FA: Stephen Adcock & Ron Halka, 1983 FFA: Joe, Prokopiak & Stephen Adcock, 1986 | 5.9 PG | 90m, 4 | |||||
11 |
Original Route - direct start
Start immediately right of Birdland, behind a large double-trunked tree. Climb the obvious steep crack to where it joins the normal route, which is then followed to the top. FA: John Cutter, Stephen Adcock & Ron Halka, 1984 | 5.8 | ||||||
12 |
★ Original Route
To the right of Birdland is a large easy-angled wall, capped by a sloping overhang.
Variant: P2. (5.0) 35m Step right from belay then up and left through some bushes to the open rock at the top of Mont King, then trend up and leftwards towards the anchors at the top of "Rocketman". (This allows rappelling the fixed anchors of Rocketman for descent, rather than the walk-off. 3 rappels, first rap is about 31m on easy ground.) | 5.3 | 65m, 2 | |||||
13 |
★★ Sex on the Beach
Between Original Route and the Great Dihedral, there is a line of glue-in bolts up a black water streak to an imposing looking head wall. Climb the easy, but run-out slab to the head wall. Pull the hard moves up the wall, to easier ground above. Descent option: from the top anchor, rappel on two ropes. Or, traverse leftwards to the anchor at the end of the 2nd pitch of Rocketman, and rappel Rocketman. Or climb up & leftwards (very easy: free solo or trad gear) to the top anchors of Rocketman and rappel Rocketman. FA: Martin L. & Jonathan, 2008 | 5.11 | 40m, 11 | |||||
14 |
★★ The Great Dihedral
A superb route which follows the obvious dihedral up the center of the cliff. Start 5m right of Original Route, at the base of an obvious corner.
| 5.9 PG | 2 | |||||
15 |
Stan's Route
Zigzag up the face, trending rightwards, to get underneath the large sloping overhang. Continue up past the overhang to easier ground. FA: S Rosenbaum | 5.6 | ||||||
16 |
Broken Rope
To the right of the large sloping overhang is another big easy-angled wall, capped by overhangs.
FA: S Adcock, R Halka & H Norris, 1984 | 5.4 PG | 88m, 3 | |||||
17 |
Mohammed the Mad Monk of Moorside Home for Mental Misfits
A challenging micro-route. It is located on a small buttress well to the right of the main cliff. (Though, the historical descent path does pass underneath it.) The left side of the buttress is a short steep wall. It is distinguished by a large roof about 3m above the ground, which is split by a horizontal flake crack. Climb up to the crack and use it to get established on the upper face. Traverse accross the face to easy ground. FA: S Adcock & R Halka, 1984 | 5.10c |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.3 | ★ | Original Route | 65m, 2 | ||
5.4 | ★ | Rocketman | 96m, 3 | ||
★ | The Nose | 25m | |||
5.4 PG | Broken Rope | 88m, 3 | |||
Owl's Nest | 2 | ||||
5.6 | Stan's Route | ||||
5.7 R | Ming Finish Variation | 10m | |||
5.8 | Original Route - direct start | ||||
★★ | Road Runner | 30m, 2 | |||
★★ | Ron's Climb | 27m | |||
5.9 | ★★ | M.S.M. | 20m, 7 | ||
5.9 PG | Birdland | 90m, 4 | |||
★★ | The Great Dihedral | 2 | |||
5.10c | Mohammed the Mad Monk of Moorside Home for Mental Misfits | ||||
5.11 | ★★ | Jack Ass | 25m, 5 | ||
★★ | Sex on the Beach | 40m, 11 | |||
★★ | Suzie-Q | 20m, 6 |