Broken Rope 5.4 PG

To the right of the large sloping overhang is another big easy-angled wall, capped by overhangs.

1. (5.1) 18m - Climb the wall, trending right towards a corner which is climbed to a good ledge and cedar tree belay.
2. (5.4) 20m - Climb a wide crack behind the cedar tree, bypassing the overhangs. Once above the level of the overhangs, go diagonally rightwards over easy ground to a tree belay.
3. (5.0) 50m - Scramble to the top. (Or rappel back down.)

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.