A massive rock formation at the very base of the escarpment, near the western end of the climbable areas, Erlkoenig is one of the bigger cliffs around.
This cliff has been closed since 2005, so climbs may be a bit dirty or overgrown.
Beware of poison ivy at the base of the cliff.
NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.
https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".
The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.
Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.
The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing
While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.
From the end of the 4-lane section of 148 at Luskville, drive 6.5km further and turn right on Eardley road. Park at the Church Hill Picnic Ground located along Eardley Road at the base of the escarpment. From the parking, walk east across the picnic ground and enter the woods about 10m left of the outhouse (at an old, broken, gate). Bushwhack down the gully, across the stream, and back up the other side. Continue for about 50m through an open evergreen forest to an obvious cart track. Turn right on the track (southward) and follow it until you emerge on the edge of a field. Walk another 200m or so, to where the track bends right. The cliff should be visible to your left, less than 100m from the track. Enter the woods at some cedar trees, and cross rapidly onto the boulder field at the base of the south side of the cliff.
About 25-30 minutes.
An ingrown descent trail can be found far up the left end of the cliff. It emerges at the top of the scree field of the west face.
No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.
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