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Bald Face 🚫

  • Contexte de la cotation : US
  • Ascensions : 14

Le site d'escalade est fermé.

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Description

One of the larger faces on the Eardley escarpment.

Currently closed by the NCC.

Limit. de l'accès hérité de Eardley Escarpment

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Approche

Access from the Home Cliff parking, approach as per Farm Rock, but from the top of Farm Rock follow the faint trail eastwards along the top of the cliff to Bald face.

Éthique hérité de Eardley Escarpment

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

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Voies

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Cotation Voie
Fermé
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Fermé
Fermé

Start on the left side of the face, 6m right of Far Left Edge.

  1. 20m. Up a shallow groove to a ledge.
  2. 35m. Diagonally right over slabs.
  3. Easy angle to top.
Fermé

Start at the foot of the left side of the face beneath a slight break in the overhang.

  1. 25m. Climb directly up to a piton and move over the overhang. Ascend the flake and then traverse right and climb straight up to a piton belay above another large flake.
  2. 35m. Straight up the slabs.
Fermé
Fermé
Fermé
Fermé
Fermé
Fermé
Fermé
Fermé
Fermé

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