★ Original Route 5.3

To the right of Birdland is a large easy-angled wall, capped by a sloping overhang.

1. (5.3) 30m Climb the wall by any one of numerous possibilities. Trend leftwards near the top, to get to an obvious cedar tree, then belay on ledge a bit above tree.
2. (5.0) Climb diagonally right. Easy ground is quickly reached.

Variant:

P2. (5.0) 35m Step right from belay then up and left through some bushes to the open rock at the top of Mont King, then trend up and leftwards towards the anchors at the top of "Rocketman". (This allows rappelling the fixed anchors of Rocketman for descent, rather than the walk-off. 3 rappels, first rap is about 31m on easy ground.)

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.