★★ The Great Dihedral 5.9 PG

A superb route which follows the obvious dihedral up the center of the cliff. Start 5m right of Original Route, at the base of an obvious corner.

1. (5.4) Follow the corner to ledges below an overhang.
2. (5.9) Step left and go up the lower section of the dihedral (usually wet, but not too difficult) to a good resting spot below the upper steeper section. Make some hard moves (crux) to get established in the upper dihedral, and follow it up to a good resting ledge. Continue up in the same line (still difficult) to the top.

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.