Aide

Le site d'escalade est fermé.

description

Start 5m left of the chimney (Rocketman), underneath the long leftwards sloping overhang. Climb up to the overhang. Layback up to an obvious break through the overhang. Traverse right to the base of a groove. Climb up the groove to ledges. (Rappel from the first belay station of Rocketman.)

Historique de la voie

5 Août 1987Première ascension: Steve Adcock & Ron Halka

Alertes

Localisation

Lat/Lon: 45.48732, -75.86540

Citation de la cotation

5.8 Cotation(s) agréée(s) par la communauté
private
5.10a [5.9 - 5.10b] ++ grAId
5.8+

Limitations de l'accès

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

hérité de Eardley Escarpment

éthique

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

hérité de Eardley Escarpment

Saison

J
F
M
A.
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Saison

Qualité

Super classique
Classique
Excellent
Bon
Dans la moyenne
Pas la peine
Pourrie

Overall quality 58 from 2 ratings.

Types de croix

À vue 1
Essai 1

Mot-clé des commentaires

crux layback

Logements à proximité plus Cacher

Partager ceci

Jeu 25 Mai
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