Nova Scotia Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Nova Scotia 2,440 routes in Region

6 5 2 1 4 3

1 Halifax 2 Eastern Shore 3 South Shore 4 Fundy Shore 5 Cobequid 6 Cape Breton

Summary:

J

F

M

A.

M

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A

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Saison

Bloc, Escalade traditionnelle et autres styles

Lat / Long: 45.206940, -62.627589

description

Climb Nova Scotia coordinates access, etc.

There are many Nova Scotian routes listed on theCrag, but not much beta. If you want to find them you'll have to look elsewhere:

Bouldering

• Mobeta provides extensive beta.

• Digby has its own guidebook

Trad and sport

• Rock Climbing Nova Scotia (2019) by Alec Soucy and Todd Foster is the most up to date.

• Nova Scotia Rock (2003) by Sean Cassidy

• Climb Nova Scotia used to provide beta on roped climbs

Ice

• The Ice Climber's Guide to Nova Scotia by Roger Fage

Historical/out of date

• Nova Scotia Climb by Teth Cleveland

• Halifax Bouldering by Ghislain Losier

• Sean Cassidy's history of NS climbing guides

• Climb Nova Scotia: A Rock Climbing Guide (1994) by Sean Willet

• www.novascotiatradclimbing.com/

Limitations de l'accès

Climb Nova Scotia coordinates access, etc.

1.1. Halifax 318 routes in Region

23 1 20 12 22 4 3 16 17 13 14 21 19 18 15 2 5 8 7 6 9 10 11

1 Eagle's Nest 2 Point Pleasant Park 3 Fox Lake 4 Virginia Slab 5 Long Lake Provincial Park 6 Kidston Lake 7 The Lorax 8 York Reboubt 9 Battery Cove 10 Herring Cove 11 Crysalis 12 Shubie Park 13 Creag na coille 14 CFB Fearwater 15 Dalplex Climbing Field House and Rock Court 16 Formation Halifax Outback Climbing Club (FHOCC) 17 Seven Bays Bouldering - Gottingen 18 Seven Bays Bouldering - Bayers Lake 19 East Peak Climbing 20 Ground Zero Climbing Gym 21 Beyond Gravity 22 Bo's Big Break 23 soldiers lake boulders

Summary:

Bloc, Escalade sportive et autres styles

Lat / Long: 44.691414, -63.618332

1.1.1. Eagle's Nest 40 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade traditionnelle, Escalade sportive et Moulinette

Lat / Long: 44.719890, -63.651678

approche

Main Face, Back Slabs, and Slab Annex are accessed by parking on a turnout off of Snowy Owl. Follow a trail to the right to access all of these crags - 5 mins to Main Face, 7 mins to the ‘slabs.

Schoolroom is accessed off of Shore Drive. Park entrance is near a community mail box. Trail is vague for first 100 metres - proceed directly up the hill and the trail becomes more obvious at the top of the hill. Hike 5-10 minutes until you come to a car-sized boulder at the top of a cliff. This is the top of the climb, descent is via a short but steep gully 50 metres further along the trail.

1.1.2. Point Pleasant Park 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 44.622435, -63.567931

résumé

Bouldering in one of Halifax's most popular parks

1.1.3. Fox Lake 72 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 44.684929, -63.704596

résumé

This is a new area. It is a band of short granite faces and boulders in a pristine wilderness area, with a clean lake for swimming nearby.

description

Surrounding the Knoll on which Fox Lake Lookout is located in the Blue Mountain Birch Cove wilderness area. There are a bunch of possibilities here, but they need scrubbing and adventurous first ascenionists. The hike in alone is worth the effort.

Limitations de l'accès

This bouldering area is located in a region designated by the Halifax Regional Municipality to be made into a large wilderness area. The problem is that the municipality has done little to move this plan forward, which includes purchasing undeveloped, but privately owned, land that surrounds the core. In 2016 developers agitated to move the process forward with the help of allies on the city council. The whole thing has been pretty shady, but seems to have been a play to either to make it possible to start developing, or raise the price that they can sell their land (which at this point cannot be developed for decades.) If the developers are successful, this area, and many other possible bouldering areas in this unexplored region, could be put at risk. Write to your representatives and push for the city to move forward with its wilderness area plans!

approche

Take Kearney Lake Road west of Highway 102. Take the second left on Hamshaw Dr. And the first right on Saskatoon Dr. Park in the Maskwa Canoe Club parking lot at the trailhead. The trail forks immediately, but take the left hand trail (straight ahead). Follow the trail to Fox Lake. There are many trail branches along the way and it can be a bit confusing, but there have been recent efforts to put up maps and signs that make it much easier to navigate. When you approach the Fox Lake knoll you will see the boulders on the right. There are a few possible low ball problems to the left of the path as well.

historique

Found in 2016, at which time there did not appear to have ever been any activity here. There is much to clean, and a lot that is too hard for The guy who found it and put it up on The Crag.

1.1.4. Virginia Slab 16 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade sportive et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 44.690867, -63.761541

résumé

granite slab

description

A short but fun granite slab with a few easier cracks.

approche

West of Virginia Drive, Halifax, through bushes.

historique

Discovered by Peter McVey in Fall 2017. Jamie Simpson and Alec Soucy started development in November of that year.

1.1.5. Long Lake Provincial Park 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 44.601802, -63.654445

1.1.6. Kidston Lake 1 route in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 44.595015, -63.619768

1.1.7. The Lorax 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Moulinette, Escalade traditionnelle et Style inconnu

Lat / Long: 44.595565, -63.564976

1.1.8. York Reboubt 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 44.595724, -63.552951

Limitations de l'accès

Tenuous, check elsewhere for updates before climbing.

1.1.9. Battery Cove 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 44.585525, -63.544327

approche

Just south of York Redoubt, at the end of Smoke Road.

1.1.10. Herring Cove 80 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 44.572676, -63.551163

résumé

The closest bouldering to Halifax

description

Clean granite bouldering. The bouldering isn't extensive, but it is convenient!

approche

Take Herring Cove Road out of Halifax. Turn left at the sign for Herring Cove. Turn left at the convenience store and follow the road until you come to the pull off parking lot.

historique

The entries I have made for this area rely on Greg Campbell's guide, Halifax Bouldering. It was self published by Greg Campbell in 2001 and is available online at https://archive.org/details/bouldering-halifax-2001

1.1.11. Crysalis 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 44.560185, -63.557135

1.1.12. Shubie Park 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 44.703543, -63.555604

1.1.13. Creag na coille 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bloc et Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 44.650930, -63.453700

résumé

A tiny crag on a tiny rock

description

Full rise is about 200m wide with some faces reaching 15m (ish). Craig Na Collie, is quite covered in moss and growth at the moment, but it's being worked on to uncover more routes!

Limitations de l'accès

During heavy rain it can get swampy.

approche

880m down well kept trail then aprox 50m off trail in well wooded area.

1.1.14. CFB Fearwater 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade traditionnelle et Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 44.647991, -63.442549

1.1.15. Dalplex Climbing Field House and Rock Court 0 routes in Gym

description

6260 South St.- Dalhousie Univ. Campus

Halifax

Nova Scotia B3H3J5 Canada

http://athletics.dal.ca/dalplex_children_youth/climbing_programs.html

call: 902 494-1935. 902 494-1605

1.1.16. Formation Halifax Outback Climbing Club (FHOCC) 3 routes in Gym

Summary:

Tous Moulinette

Lat / Long: 44.659770, -63.586687

résumé

Indoor Climbing gym with routes currently being updated. open to military/veterans/CWI certified personnel on Mondays and Wednesdays 1200-1300

description

Valour Way

CFB Halifax

Nova Scotia B3K 5X5 Canada

Call: 902-427-3524

1.1.17. Seven Bays Bouldering - Gottingen 9 routes in Gym

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 44.650940, -63.581540

description

The original Seven Bays Bouldering gym and cafe.

1.1.18. Seven Bays Bouldering - Bayers Lake 9 routes in Gym

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 44.637124, -63.663735

1.1.19. East Peak Climbing 30 routes in Gym

Summary:

Escalade sportive et Moulinette

Lat / Long: 44.644278, -63.600430

résumé

A climbing gym in the former Oxford Theatre on the corner of Quinpool and Oxford. Features sport, top rope, and autobelays on 25-50 ft walls, in addition to a condensed bouldering wall.

description

eastpeakclimbing.ca

https://www.instagram.com/eastpeakhfx/

https://www.facebook.com/eastpeakhfx/

approche

6408 Quinpool Road Halifax

historique

Opened Feb 2020

1.1.20. Ground Zero Climbing Gym 0 routes in Gym

description

Closed 2020

7 Mellor Ave - Unit#3

Dartmouth

Nova Scotia B3B0E8 Canada

http://www.climbgroundzero.com/

call: (902) 468-8788

1.1.21. Beyond Gravity 0 routes in Gym

1.1.22. Bo's Big Break 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 44.692992, -63.713303

description

A boulder at the start of a series of sparse boulders along the Hobson's Lake hike. Likely several slab routes and several more challenging routes currently obstructed by brush.

approche

Hike in about 1.5km from the end of Collins road along the Hobson's Lake hiking route. You'll come across the boulder in a shaded clearing at the top of a small incline.

1.1.23. soldiers lake boulders 1 route in Field

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 44.820238, -63.571128

résumé

just across from soldiers lake, there is one small slab wall and then further back into the wood a area with some more slab boulders

description

the main slab is just behind a campsite area and can be wet in spring and fall.

Limitations de l'accès

about a ten min hike from the start of a service road gate is someitmes open in the summer and the there is parking about a min from the main boulder

1.2. Eastern Shore 508 routes in Region

5 3 2 4 1

1 Lake Echo 2 - 3 Musquodoboit Valley Area 4 Ship Rock 5 Sheet Harbour

Summary:

Escalade traditionnelle, Bloc et autres styles

Lat / Long: 44.959379, -62.616766

1.2.1. Lake Echo 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 44.762006, -63.390945

1.2.2. - 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 44.813961, -63.446810

1.2.3. Musquodoboit Valley Area 445 routes in Crag

Summary:

Escalade traditionnelle, Escalade sportive et autres styles

Lat / Long: 44.833510, -63.217154

description

For the latest beta, approach info, access issues, history, and to support your local guides, buy a guidebook! https://rockclimbingnovascotia.com/

Support route development & maintenance by joining Climb Nova Scotia! https://www.climbnovascotia.com/

1.2.4. Ship Rock 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

La plupart Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 44.768736, -62.756884

1.2.5. Sheet Harbour 42 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 44.993063, -62.478053

historique

Discovered in 2010

1.3. South Shore 1,161 routes in Region

3 1 4 2 7 6 13 5 9 8 10 14 12 11

1 Big Bluff 2 Aspotogen Peninsula 3 Hubbards Area 4 Shut-in Island 5 Peggy's Cove Area 6 Black Duck Run 7 Blind Bay 8 Prospect 9 Terence Bay Area 10 West Penant 11 Duck Head 12 Crystal Crescent 13 Chebucto Head - Duncan's Cove 14 Sandy Cove

Summary:

La plupart Bloc

Lat / Long: 44.477305, -64.258018

1.3.1. Big Bluff 0 routes in Crag

1.3.2. Aspotogen Peninsula 77 routes in Area

Summary:

La plupart Bloc

Lat / Long: 44.544136, -64.078715

1.3.3. Hubbards Area 31 routes in Region

Summary:

La plupart Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 44.672548, -64.030239

1.3.4. Shut-in Island 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 44.548429, -63.957475

1.3.5. Peggy's Cove Area 523 routes in Region

Summary:

La plupart Bloc

Lat / Long: 44.503674, -63.903596

1.3.6. Black Duck Run 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 44.510978, -63.869716

1.3.7. Blind Bay 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 44.526320, -63.828436

1.3.8. Prospect 39 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 44.476957, -63.797073

1.3.9. Terence Bay Area 158 routes in Region

Summary:

Escalade traditionnelle, Bloc et autres styles

Lat / Long: 44.475960, -63.723188

1.3.10. West Penant 70 routes in Area

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 44.475642, -63.651396

résumé

Granite inland Bouldering

approche

From Halifax go through the Armdale Roundabout and head up Herring Cove Road. After 2.5 kms, turn right on Old Sambro Road and drive 18 kms. Turn right on West Pennant Road, at Mishoo's Takeout. Park at the turnoff for Crystal Crescent. Walk back around 100 meters towards Mishoo's and look for the trailhead on the north side of the road.

1.3.11. Duck Head 18 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 44.441586, -63.649228

description

Not what it was before some of the boulders collapsed and broke in 2010. Read Climberism Issue 3 for details.

1.3.12. Crystal Crescent 93 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 44.448291, -63.624561

description

Bouldering areas and beaches, including one that is clothing optional. The bouldering here tends towards the low grade, and is on nice clean granite.

approche

From Halifax, drive through the Armdale Rotary and drive through Spryfield to Old Sambro Road (Hwy 349). When you reach Sambro, follow the signs to Crystal Crescent Beach. Park at the upper parking lot and walk south along the coast, past both the regular beach and the clothing optional beach. Avert your eyes as you go by the second one as there are some things you may not want etched in your memory. The Main Area is about 15 minutes walk along the trail and the IMAX area is an additional 20 minutes.

1.3.13. Chebucto Head - Duncan's Cove 125 routes in Crag

Summary:

La plupart Bloc

Lat / Long: 44.506933, -63.523134

description

Crag about 25 minutes drive from Halifax.

Mostly bouldering but there is a little roped climbing too.

Limitations de l'accès

The gate is sometimes open, but there is no guarantee it will be when you try to leave, so park outside.

Make sure not to block or park on any private driveways, including the small gravel pullout with an easy-to-miss ‘no parking’ sign.

approche

Chebucto Head is located along the shore from Halifax. From the Armdale Roundabout, take Herring Cove Road (route 349) south for 19 kms, until you see the Duncan’s Cove sign. Turn left and follow Chebucto Head Road. Stay to the left when it forks, and park by the side of the road near the barrier

The gate is sometimes open, but there is no guarantee it will be when you try to leave, so park outside. Make sure not to block or park on any private driveways, including the small gravel pullout with an easy-to-miss ‘no parking’ sign.

1.3.14. Sandy Cove 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 44.466479, -63.559050

description

Not to be confused with Sandy Cove in the Digby area.

1.4. Fundy Shore 177 routes in Region

7 8 3 10 6 5 9 11 4 2 1

1 Digby Neck Area 2 Annapolis Valley 3 Baxters Harbour 4 Clarence 5 Black Rock 6 Halls Harbour 7 Cape Split 8 Amethyst Cove 9 Blue Beach 10 Palmolive 11 Margaretsville

Summary:

Bloc, Escalade de glace et autres styles

Lat / Long: 44.808667, -65.223310

1.4.1. Digby Neck Area 75 routes in Region

Summary:

Bloc, Escalade sportive et autres styles

Lat / Long: 44.478172, -66.056252

description

https://www.boulderingdigbyneck.com/

Limitations de l'accès

Mount Shubel is on Private Property and Rock Climbing is not permitted by the owners.

Mount Shubel est Propriété Privée et l’escalade y est interdite par les propriétaires.

1.4.2. Annapolis Valley 49 routes in Region

Summary:

Bloc, Escalade sportive et autres styles

Lat / Long: 44.954706, -64.628144

1.4.3. Baxters Harbour 16 routes in Area

Summary:

Escalade de glace, Moulinette et Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 45.232627, -64.496490

description

Basalt climbing, relatively short. mixed quality

1.4.4. Clarence 0 routes in Crag

description

https://web.archive.org/web/20180517031344/http://novascotiaclimb.tripod.com/crag_info.html#Clarence

1.4.5. Black Rock 1 route in Crag

Summary:

Tous Escalade de glace

Lat / Long: 45.170160, -64.761769

1.4.6. Halls Harbour 17 routes in Area

Summary:

Tous Escalade de glace

Lat / Long: 45.200927, -64.614506

1.4.7. Cape Split 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Escalade de glace

Lat / Long: 45.324337, -64.456975

1.4.8. Amethyst Cove 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Escalade de glace

Lat / Long: 45.321023, -64.393110

1.4.9. Blue Beach 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Escalade de glace

Lat / Long: 45.099851, -64.215030

1.4.10. Palmolive 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 45.220329, -64.548776

historique

Discovered by Teth Cleveland and friend during the winter of 2002. First climbing was 4th May 2002.

1.4.11. Margaretsville 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Escalade de glace

Lat / Long: 45.029733, -65.077152

1.5. Cobequid 147 routes in Region

4 6 9 8 7 10 11 12 13 1 16 17 15 3 14 5 2

1 Moose River 2 Cap d'Or 3 Cape Chignecto 4 Joggins 5 Victoria Park 6 Drysdale Falls 7 36 Chambers 8 Apple River 9 Ravens Head 10 Folly River 11 Crag Mirage 12 Bailey Bridge 13 Dilligent River 14 Rath Eastlink Community Centre 15 Economy 16 Keenomee 17 Clarke’s Head

Summary:

Tous Escalade de glace

Lat / Long: 45.575248, -63.962524

description

Beta on many climbs not listed here

1.5.1. Moose River 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 45.423744, -64.179173

1.5.2. Cap d'Or 1 route in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 45.295890, -64.776391

1.5.3. Cape Chignecto 28 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 45.354613, -64.908070

1.5.4. Joggins 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 45.692777, -64.451095

Limitations de l'accès

UNESCO World heritage site due to fossils in the cliffs.

1.5.5. Victoria Park 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 45.349274, -63.263695

1.5.6. Drysdale Falls 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 45.637451, -63.250647

Limitations de l'accès

May be private property

1.5.7. 36 Chambers 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 45.507977, -63.265320

1.5.8. Apple River 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 45.516032, -64.751100

1.5.9. Ravens Head 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 45.545760, -64.680700

1.5.10. Folly River 23 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 45.496138, -63.527649

1.5.11. Crag Mirage 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 45.493811, -63.615811

1.5.12. Bailey Bridge 0 routes in Crag

résumé

Ice

1.5.13. Dilligent River 27 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 45.449669, -64.424871

1.5.14. Rath Eastlink Community Centre 0 routes in Gym

1.5.15. Economy 1 route in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 45.379125, -63.933040

1.5.16. Keenomee 1 route in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 45.388026, -63.835324

1.5.17. Clarke’s Head 1 route in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 45.381783, -64.241807

1.6. Cape Breton 129 routes in Region

2 8 1 9 4 3 6 5 7 10

1 Interior Highlands 2 Ingonish 3 Drive By Crag 4 Sydney 5 Big Pond 6 Gooseberry Cove 7 Spotted Rock 8 Grande Falaise 9 Uisage Bahn Park 10 Lighthouse Point

Summary:

Escalade traditionnelle, Bloc et autres styles

Lat / Long: 46.157032, -60.674217

1.6.1. Interior Highlands 32 routes in Region

Summary:

Escalade traditionnelle et Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 46.540849, -60.727999

1.6.2. Ingonish 14 routes in Region

Summary:

Tous Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 46.704993, -60.379511

1.6.3. Drive By Crag 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 45.962060, -61.100345

résumé

Graffitied rock on the side of the highway

1.6.4. Sydney 46 routes in Region

Summary:

Bloc, Escalade traditionnelle et autres styles

Lat / Long: 46.208284, -60.264949

1.6.5. Big Pond 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bloc, Escalade traditionnelle et Moulinette

Lat / Long: 45.927919, -60.510240

1.6.6. Gooseberry Cove 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 45.941640, -59.883288

1.6.7. Spotted Rock 0 routes in Crag

1.6.8. Grande Falaise 0 routes in Crag

1.6.9. Uisage Bahn Park 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Escalade de glace

Lat / Long: 46.203213, -60.783259

1.6.10. Lighthouse Point 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Bloc

Lat / Long: 45.906885, -59.957889