Voies trad dans Smoke Bluffs

just right of the gully, Boulder through a tough bulge, then climb the crack and slab to the top.

A thin slab leads to easier climbing above.

The oldest route at the cliff. Startup the arete then step left at the second bolt and climb the center of the wall.

Climb Squeakers to the first bolt, then break out left up the arete

Climb the large corner to a set of anchors on a ledge, or continue up the slab to the top.

climb up the featured face to the right of The Squeakers.

A small face climb found a few meters right of the arete

CLOSED PROJECT: Left most crack with one bolt, currently red-tagged as of may 11 2021

Climb Chicken-Sashimi up to the blocky undercling, then break out right on the slab. Climb past a horizontal crack, then 2 bolts to the finish.

Start on Swampton, then quickly break out left on the tricky hand traverse. Mantle up at the end of the crack and climb the slab past 4 bolts.

Climb the wide crack all the way to the top of the cliff. doubles from 1" to 3"

Climb Swampton up to the first ledge, then step right and head past 2 bolts to the anchors on the large ledge.

Climb the slightly overhanging corner past some awkward jambs to the ledge, cam be linked with the 5.9 crack directly above.

From the large ledge above Swampton, Climb the left-leaning crack. Gear to 2"

From the ledge above Swampton, climb the Left vertical crack.

The striking corner on the upper ledge. Climb through some easy moves to the base of the small overhang, stemming and some laybacking will get you through the crux with ease. A short offwidth will land you below a pair of rap-ring anchors.

a steep corner leads to a slab crux finish

A short left-leaning crack leads to a few tricky moves on the slab above.

Start on the mellow slab to the right of Naughty by Nature, then follow the bolt line left crossing Naughty by Nature and finishing at the anchors for Boys in the Wood

Start to the right of Hydrotherapy, climb the polished slab.

Climb P then break out right towards the edge.

Considered one of the finest 10a cracks in the bluffs. Amazing and sustained best sum it up.

The Zip was discovered and unearthed by Blake and Ward Robinson in about 1979, and quickly became popular. (It’s the left hand crack.) For the first while there was a stump in the middle, at the jog in the crack. Anyway, the rappel route was from a tree, more or less where the blue rope is. The first time there, I noticed some interesting edges and cracks under the rappel rope, and soon after returned to clean it up – Crystal Ball, so named because it foresaw numerous other routes of its kind elsewhere in the Little Smoke Bluffs. Although TBH it does have a natural line. Anyway, having gotten started I also cleaned Riden’ with Biden, enough to climb it anyway. It’s the crack on the right. In the context of 1979 it wasn’t likely to draw crowds, even had it been buffed. Dave Nicol and I did Crystal Ball, and while he was rappelling, I scampered up Riden’ with Biden. Although as I believe that the second rule of solo club is not to talk about it, never made much of it. (First rule: don’t fall.)

Finger crack on the wall right of Riden’ with Biden

The thin corner that Y's into two parallel crack systems. Routes were combined as you can reach from crack to crack, Both go at the same grade.

A very chill warmup slab in between the iron ladder and Marjorie Mae. A few somewhat frictiony moves, but generally everything is well textured. Excellent stances make this a great route for beginner trad leaders – just remember to extend your gear.

The small juggy ledge at the top is on, but the crack is off (except for pro), and obviously the ladder is off, too. Shares the same anchor as Marjorie Mae, Tenacious, and The Cagemaster.

## Location

Right between the iron ladder and Marjorie Mae (5.5 crack) at the high upper left side of the crag.

## Protection

SR to 1.5", extended. If top roping, you may want to redirect with a draw affixed to ladder rung two or three down from the top. But DO NOT use the rungs to lead this as a sport route! The ladder rungs are not rated or designed for climbing; falling on a rung could result in serious injury. Lead it with gear, or just use the ladder to set up a top rope.

*Requires: Name, Descrpition, Grade

*Requires: Name, Descrpition, Grade

The same start as Elsinor, then right

SR until 2

SR up to 3

Super fun, intimidating looking crack with amazing moves

Up often wet corner crack past one bolt

Right variation of Man about the Park. At the end, cut across the slab towards an easier crack.

SR to 2.5

Main left crack. Tricky move off the ground 5.6/7 afterwards

Main right crack

Corner crack

SR to 4

SR to 4

SR to 2.5, RPs

Highly technical slab directly above the free and easy slab.

Pull stright through the roof

SR to 3.5

Right of Protein Eater. Up the corner crack and then move to left above the roof. Same anchor as Free and Easy/Protein Eater.

SR up to 2.5

Two variations start on the wide crack and straight up or go towards the roof and then right to the wide crack roughly same grade

Up the right crack

Up the slab and to the left. To the intermediate chains is 11+

Small aliens

Arete. SR to 1.

SR to 4. Start the same as Proudly Canadian, and then right.

SR up to 4

SR to 1.5

Unknown crack climb - 5.10a/b. Start on the right leaning finger crack, finish with another finger crack. Easier option - start in the corner. Area - first climbs you see as you come up the Island in the Sky trail.

5.6? Low angle crack climb leading to bolted anchors. Shares anchor with two other slab climbs. Area - Left of Gang of Foreplay.

5.10c/d? Unknown Route 4, starts from the top of the Unknown Route 1-3. Area left of Gang of Foreplay.

Trad route left of shiney new bolts

Cracks to the right of shiney new bolts

Sandbagged!

Strenuous fist-sized crack climbing. A hard man's route.

Obviouse line

Between Run Like a Thief and Issy's Rock. Wide crack.

Arete with a bolt protecting the crux

Short hand crack on the Burgers and Fries walk-off trail.

Hand crack between Three Kool Kats and False Friends

Cracks lead to a ramp to the right of Pine Cones.