Rozpůlená skála Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

vilda_hkvdf Nicky richard ott

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Rozpůlená skála / Geteilter Fels 11 in Cliff
2. Index by grade

1. Rozpůlená skála

Summary:

Saison

11 routes in Cliff

Tous Escalade traditionnelle

Lat / Long: 50.798860, 14.039250

Limitations de l'accès

Get the local climbing guidebook from Refugio Tisá, HUDY Hřensko possibly also from the local camp. Two options available:

TOPO guide in German and English, 2020 uses standardized saxon grading system wherever the grade is known (marked with "RP"). If no "RP" is written, only the JPK grading is known and you may expect anything.

Průvodce Ostrov, standard czech text guide, 2021, Pay special attention as it uses the traditional JPK grading system (see grading in description).

hérité de Ostrov

éthique

Check particular areas for more detailed rules and nature protecton restrictions. General czech sandstone rules apply in all areas:

Climbing is only allowed on dry rock.
No changing of the rock surface.
No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.
No Toprope if it may damage rock or fixed protection (=in theory allowed if there is a maillon or if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock)
First ascents shall be consulted upfront with the area administrator. Contacts available at https://www.horosvaz.cz/skaly-region-2/
Further local rules apply depending on the level of protection. See the particular area details.

hérité de Labské pískovce

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Západní komín / Westkamin	I	Trad
2	Varianta / Variante	I	Trad
3	Spára klouzavá / Glitschiger Riss SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = V FA: Karel Bělina & M.Tůma, 2011	V	Trad
4	Vstupenka na západ / Eintritskarte in den Westen SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIc FA: Pavel Henke und Karel Bělina, 2011	VIIc	Trad mixte 1
5	★ Nohy vzhůru / Beine hoch SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIa FA: Libor Balík und Tomáš Vlček, J.Munde, R.Ott, K.Bělina & J.Černý, 2010	VIIa	Trad mixte 1
6	Přes parež / Über den Baumstumpf SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VI FA: Tomáš Vlček und Karel Bělina & S.Munde u.Gef., 2010	VI	Trad mixte 1
7	Východní cesta / Ostweg SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = IV FA: Karel Bělina & L.Pasterňaková, 2010	IV	Trad
8	Ve stínu zlomených křídel / Im Schatten der gebrochenen Flügel SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = V FA: Karel Bělina & M.Tůma, 2011	V	Trad mixte 1
9	Krátká / Kurzer Weg FA: Karel Bělina, 2011	III	Trad
10	Krátce do sedla / Kurz in den Sattel FA: Karel Bělina, 2011	I	Trad
11	V říši snů / Im Reich der Träume SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = V FA: Karel Bělina & M.Tůma, 2011	V	Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style
I		Krátce do sedla	Trad
		Varianta	Trad
		Západní komín	Trad
III		Krátká	Trad
IV		Východní cesta	Trad
V		Spára klouzavá	Trad
		V říši snů	Trad
		Ve stínu zlomených křídel	Trad mixte 1
VI		Přes parež	Trad mixte 1
VIIa	★	Nohy vzhůru	Trad mixte 1
VIIc		Vstupenka na západ	Trad mixte 1