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La Plage Guide

  • Contexte de la cotation : FR
  • Ascensions : 18

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Paul Badenoch Erwan Legrand Campbell Gome Nans Toullec Matt Brooks Helge Øystein Maakestad Maiia Piratinskaia Loic Zehani Philipp Wellmann Jens Rohloff

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. La Plage 16 routes in Sector

Summary:
J
F
M
A.
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Saison

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 43.821694, 5.380353

description

Like a "Bout du Monde" light and a popular hangout with a concentration of good bouldery routes in the upper 7s.

Limitations de l'accès

Climbing is only authorized from the sectors "Face Ouest" to "Bout du Monde" on the Aiguebrun cliff. All the other areas, including the Confines cliff (on the opposite side) are currently on private land and are closed. Camping and fires are prohibited.

Climbing was forbidden in Buoux for more than a decade. The last area to have been reopened is the Face Ouest area which was re-opened in 2010 with many new routes and some classic lines rebolted.

Not respecting these rules could lead to the area being closed again.

hérité de Buoux

approche

Old stairs from below. Approaching from the right is not recommended.

éthique

  • No camping
  • No sleeping in car parks
  • No fire
  • Don't leave any trash
  • Brush off your chalk and tick marks
hérité de Buoux
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Le Bombé Bleu

A short and bouldery 7c approach before a big ledge. Then 5 moves before a very powerful and extreme boulder problem :

A single move crux sequence, probably 8A+ boulder problem, with two possible sequences :

  • Left from shallow mono.

  • Right from RH undercling.

Could be 'easy' for someone 1,85/90 M using the right sequence.

Crux followed by 10m of pockets with two 8A boulder problem without rest.

Then there is a last section which is 7c.

The "first move" is very mysterious because anybody who have tried the move have done it before 2023 :

Nicola Pelorson became the first climber in the world to do it.

The route is a Myth.

French climbers working on the route

Équip.: Marc Le Menestrel, 1991

SportiveProjet 30m
2 Acapulco 7c Sportive
3 Exces de Zele 7c Sportive
4 Sous les Paves 7c+ Sportive
5 Passage 7c+ Sportive
6 La Ouate 8a Sportive
7 Le Cadeau Empoisonné

Équip.: Buno Fara & Hervé Laillé, 1986

7c Sportive
8 Gedeon 7a+ Sportive
9 Scorpion 7a Sportive 4
10 Kookaburra 7a+ Sportive
11 Cool Raoul 7a Sportive
12 Relax Max

The number of bolts listed (9) includes one for the anchor and doesn't include the first, which is clipped from the ground just next to the belay station.

6b+ Sportive 20m, 9
13 Tranquille Bill 6b Sportive
14 Paradis Artificiel 7c Sportive
15 Il Moro de Venezia 7a Sportive 3
16 Chocolat Moto 7a Sportive

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
6b Tranquille Bill Sportive
6b+ Relax Max Sportive 20m, 9
7a Chocolat Moto Sportive
Cool Raoul Sportive
Il Moro de Venezia Sportive 3
Scorpion Sportive 4
7a+ Gedeon Sportive
Kookaburra Sportive
7c Acapulco Sportive
Exces de Zele Sportive
Le Cadeau Empoisonné Sportive
Paradis Artificiel Sportive
7c+ Passage Sportive
Sous les Paves Sportive
8a La Ouate Sportive
? Le Bombé Bleu SportiveProjet 30m
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