Ascensions dans La Restonica

Really enjoyed this one! It was tricky to find the beta from bolt 2 til 4, but very good!

Amazing!! The second half on very sculpted granite is so much fun!!

This was very enjoyable to climb!

Tricky from start to end!

Seemingly gets a lot of traffic. We were at the start before 10 and there was already a (slightly slow) group in front of us. Before we started, the next group already showed up, so we were wedged in a bit. I took my time and enjoyed each pitch, but the French guys behind us seemed to be in a hurry. The first pitch is probably the hardest and the one where I needed the most additional protection. Pitch 2 is an easy stroll over the ridge, but very enjoyable. I just put slings on each intermediate jag, almost no rope drag this way (make sure to avoid clipping the stuck cam ;-)). Pitch 3 is in great position slightly to the right of the dull arête. Of course, pitch 4 is the money pitch, leading through a labyrinth of massive tafoni. Protection is a non-issue, just avoid rope drag. The last few meters of the pitch aren't obvious, look out for a bolt on the right that leads into a short chimney section. Going around left is also possible, probably even easier, but not as exposed. The final pitch is easier and not too interesting. Communication from the top is difficult. Great view from the top, a nice place to rest.

A slightly awkward start leads into a fantastic section through overhanging black tafoni, followed by a tricky slab section to a good belay below a little roof. All in all spaced protection, but no geaar needed. The other pitches are great, too, getting more and more slabby, but with enough interesting movement problems strewn in. A 70 meter rope is not enough for the first abseil!

A marvellous introduction to tafoni climbing. Jugs en masse, with ridiculous positions for the grade.