Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | |||
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Sam 8 Juin 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Obere Gößweinsteiner Wände | ||||||
6 | ★ Stabeler Gedenkweg | 15m | ★ Bon | |||
6- | ★ Danzer Gedenkweg | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Lun 20 Mai 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Hirschbach Castellwand | ||||||
5 | Men at Work | 12m, 4 | ★ Bon | |||
Cleaning.
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5 | Men at Work | 12m, 4 | ★ Bon | |||
4- | ★ Ernstlas Pensionärsführe - avec Christoph Rauch | 8m | ||||
Cleaning.
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5- | ★ A15 a.D. | 8m, 2 | ★ Bon | |||
Sam 7 Oct. 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Förrenbachtal Kirchtalwände | ||||||
4 | ★ Verschneidung | 16m | ★★ Excellent | |||
4+ | ★★ Unnamed A | 14m | ★★ Excellent | |||
4 | ★ Doppelriss | 10m | ★ Bon | |||
5+ | ★★ Sylvesterweg | 14m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Polished
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5 | ★ B. und W. Weg | 14m | ★ Bon | |||
Dim 3 Sept 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Hirschbach Schlaraffenland Teufelsrissmassiv | ||||||
6+ | ★★ Kloß mit Soß | 13m, 3 | ★ Bon | |||
6+ | ★ Hopfen & Malz | 10m, 3 | ★ Bon | |||
Slipped on some wet holds
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7 | ★★ Drachen | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
6 | ★ Zum Höhlenloch | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Lun 26 Juin 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Ailsbachtal Unterailsfelder Wand Turm | ||||||
5 | ★ Ostkante, Einstiegsvariante - avec Christoph Rauch | 18m | ★ Bon | |||
Lun 26 Juin 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Ailsbachtal Unterailsfelder Wand Hüttenfels | ||||||
7- | ★ Hasenpfad | 12m, 5 | ||||
Start is nice, good pockets. The end is hard, didn't find holds good enough to get me over the bulge to the anchor (I kinda dyno'd to the good nose )
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5 | ★ Eyb-Kamin | 12m, 3 | ★ Bon | |||
4- | ★ Floristenweg | 12m, 3 | ★ Bon | |||
Naming is accurate, quite green (at the start at least). But a decent #warmup
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Dim 30 Oct. 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Königstein Steinberg Steinbeißer | ||||||
6 | ★★ Zonenriß | 17m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Dim 30 Oct. 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Königstein Steinberg Fieberkurve | ||||||
6+ | ★★ Schnauze voll | 10m, 4 | ||||
No power left and bailed.
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Dim 30 Oct. 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Königstein Steinberg Südseite-Vordere Wände | ||||||
6- | ★★ Gewaltfrei Töpfern | 12m | ★ Bon | |||
7- | ★★ Biomüsli | 12m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | |||
6- | ★ Teekannenschicksen | 15m, 3 | ★ Bon | |||
Tricky getting past the first bolt (and to it, actually). A little scary in general
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Mer 27 Juil 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Ebermannstadt Wohlmuthshüller Wand | ||||||
5 | ★ Ein Kessel Buntes | 16m | ★ Bon | |||
I was the first one in that route today and it showed. Quite dirty and still brittle. Had fun in the chimney though #warmup
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5 | ★ Wohlfühlhill | 11m | ★ Bon | |||
6- 6 | ★ Perseidendusche | 11m | ★ Bon | |||
Little bit confusing, but nice overall.
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6- 6 | ★★ Kantenclown | 11m | ★★ Excellent | |||
That was fun! Little hip stretching in the beginning and then fun along the arête.
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Sam 9 Juil 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Lehenhammertal Hammertalwand | ||||||
4+ | ★★ Südostkante | 16m | ★★ Excellent | |||
So nice!
Could've used some additional protection, but it was easy enough. Not sure what this sling before the anchor is about? |
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6- | ★ Nordostverschneidung, Direkteinstieg | ★ Bon | ||||
Also very nice. Getting over the bulge was a bit tricky but manageable.
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6+ | ★ Leo Rittler Gedenkweg | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Quite technical and demanding! Protection is very good! I am really proud that I pulled through this
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6+ | ★★ Schwarze Verschneidung - avec Ellen | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
That was fun! #lastrouteoftheday #mytoeshurt
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Sam 9 Juil 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Lehenhammertal Neidstallwand | ||||||
5 | Glatze | ★ Bon | ||||
Super short, but nice
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5+ | ★ Leithammel | ★ Bon | ||||
6 | Opas Erste | Pas la peine | ||||
Not sure why I even went in there, it is obviously dirty and mossy. Also it was kind of hard for me to not cross into the route to the left. #warmup
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Sam 16 Avr 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Hiltpoltstein Ittlinger Fels | ||||||
6- | ★ R1 - avec Daniel | 14m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Slabby start, then some pockets, where I needed to place something (used one of Daniel's tricams) ito ease my mind, then stand up, clip the second bold and off into the crack you go! .. and then it's over already
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Sam 16 Avr 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Hiltpoltstein Ittlinger Wand | ||||||
5- | ★★ Blumenduft - avec Daniel | 20m, 3 | ★ Bon | |||
5- | ★★ R5 - avec Daniel | 15m, 3 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Great, I enjoyed it very much! So juggy.
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6 | ★ R9 - avec Daniel | 18m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
The chimney/arête part was fun!
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Sam 19 Mars 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Mostviel - Affalterthal Mostvieler Kletterblock | ||||||
6 | ★ Finderlohn - avec Christoph Rauch | 23m | ★ Bon | |||
When we arrived at the crag, the weather looked super great. When Christoph Rauch finished the route and I went in, it started to rain/snow, so I got down again and we took a nice coffee break. I went into the route again, which was wet of course and I had to rest several times. The start is indeed hard for 6-.
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6- | ★★★ Nordwestkante - avec Christoph Rauch | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Really cool! Quite some powerful moves in the beginning. Nice pillar and I even did a hand jam to get to the "anchor".
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Mer 24 Nov. 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Walberla Rodenstein | ||||||
6- | ★ Malmriss | 26m, 4 | ★ Bon | |||
#lastrouteoftheday as it got cloudy and therefore cold Didn't notice the polish that much.
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6- | ★★ Margarethenwand | 18m | ★★ Excellent | |||
#warmup Very nice!
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6 | ★ RB-Durchstieg | 16m | ★ Bon | |||
6- | ★ Gufel | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Interesting finish!
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Sam 23 Oct. 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Hirschbach Mittelbergwand Rechter Teil | ||||||
5 | ★★ Blues zum Gruß - avec Ellen | 25m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Nice warmup, even catched some sun on the way up!
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5 | ★ Schatzsucher - avec Daniel | 12m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
A bit tricky getting to the first bolt but so awesome after that!
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4+ | ★ Schwartenjodler - avec Christoph Rauch | 8m, 3 | ★★ Excellent | |||
5 | ★ Dsibbflschwingä - avec Daniel | 12m, 3 | ★ Bon | |||
Interesting move to the anchor. Not a bad route!
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Sam 23 Oct. 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Hirschbach Mittelbergwand Linker Teil | ||||||
5+ | ★★ Armriss - avec Daniel | 25m, 2 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Took the same way Daniel did, started a bit to the right and also finished right. I climbed the crack a little more relaxed than Seifertriss
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6- | ★ Seifertriss - avec Daniel | 22m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
I guess I liked that route, but I was scared for the most of time getting through the crack. But I managed and I even used a fist jam!
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Dim 10 Oct. 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Streitberg Freundschaftsturm | ||||||
5 | ★★ Kaminkehrer | 25m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Very nice chimney! I would've probably be too scared to lead this though.. But that's just because I don't trust my chimney skills
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7- | ★★ Reifeprüfung - avec Daniel | 20m, 3 | ★★ Excellent | |||
That was great! Had to try several times to stick the jug to get through the roof!
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Jeu 23 Sept 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Neuhaus Weißenstein | ||||||
6 | ★ Buchenleiter | 15m, 4 | ★ Bon | |||
6+ | ★★ R9 | 15m | ★ Bon | |||
First bolt pre-clipped
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7- | ★★ Verlobungsweg Direkt | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Putting this down as a dog, got through it all (although pumped ) and I clipped the anchor, but slipped on a polished foot hold while doing one last move
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6 | ★★ Mon Marie | 15m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | |||
#warmup My first Weißenstein route
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Sam 18 Sept 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Königstein Steinberg Südseite-Hintere Wände | ||||||
5 | ★★ Rusty from Rain | 12m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Nice #warmup, easy chimney and then jugs to the top.
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6 | ★ Hokus Pokus | 10m, 3 | ★ Bon | |||
My guidebook said 6-, I climbed it as an 6+ by missing all the good holds
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5+ | ★★ Alter Weg | 13m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
6 | ★★ Kante | 12m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
5+ | ★ Abra Kadabra | 10m, 3 | ★ Bon | |||
Dim 18 Juil 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Burggaillenreuth Heinrichsgrotte Rechts | ||||||
7- | ★★ Höhlenweg - avec Christoph Rauch | 45m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Awesome alpine adventure, part 2, thanks to Christoph Rauch!
Struggled getting over the bulge in the beginning (i.e., the part that makes this route 7- ). The rest was relaxed and enjoyable, but you still need to watch out for brittle holds. Nice (although very smelly ) cave ! |
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Jeu 3 Juin 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Neukirchen Buchenstein | ||||||
6 | Schief gewickelt | ★ Bon | ||||
After setting my foot earlier, everything went fine.
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6 | Schief gewickelt | ★ Bon | ||||
Ok, quite short.
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5+ | ★ Wahnsinnsverschneidung | ★ Bon | ||||
Nice dihedral, tricky start.
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4+ | ★★ Drei mit Kraut | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Tricky first moves, after that really pleasant to the top. #lastrouteoftheday
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7- | ★★ Linke Platte | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Maybe not the best #warmup Struggled standing up in the middle part and getting to a good hold and fell.
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7- | ★★ Linke Platte | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Footwork was better in my first go, but I managed to get through this time. Really nice and juggy roof!
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Dim 9 Mai 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Egloffstein Wilhelmsfels | ||||||
4+ | ★★ Ferz mit Krigge | 15m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Super nice #warmup. A bit chossy on the first two meters.
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6+ | ★ Slippende Gringo | 15m, 6 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Shares the chossy start of Ferz mit Krigge. Nice undercling in the middle!
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7- | ★★ Fresse da vorne! | 15m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Chossy start here as well, but very nice climbing. Pumpy middle section over the bulge with a really nice rescue jug.
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7- | ★★ Fresse da vorne! | 15m, 7 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Got lucky the second time, but it worked
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Sam 24 Avr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Plech Plecher Wand | ||||||
6- | ★ Kleine Lady | 10m | ★★ Excellent | |||
First bolt is a little high and most foot holds are quite polished. The top is runout but fun on interesting jugs.
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Sam 24 Avr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Spies Naifertaler Klettergarten | ||||||
3- | Echtes Geschenk | 6m, 2 | ★ Bon | |||
3- | Echtes Geschenk | 6m, 2 | ★ Bon | |||
#warmup round two
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5 | Stiller Winkel | 7m | ★ Bon | |||
Moving in from the left.
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5 | Stiller Winkel | 7m | ★ Bon | |||
Aaaand again,this time doing the start with layback climbing.
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7- | ★ Dämmerung | 8m | ★ Bon | |||
Wow, if the quickdraw at the anchor wouldn't have been extended I wouldn't have dared,the distance from the second bolt to the anchor is quite far and I am definitely not solid enough in this grade and I still struggled a lot to reach the top. But it was fun!
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7- | ★ Kleine Flamme | 7m, 1 | ★ Bon | |||
Couldn't do the moves over the bolt to the anchor and the holds were too sharp. No boulder strength
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5+ | ★ Kalter Rauch | 8m, 1 | ||||
Short but fun
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5+ | ★ Kalter Rauch | 8m, 1 | ||||
So short, doing it twice.
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Dim 11 Avr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Oberes Wiesenttal Schallmauer | ||||||
6+ | Ultraschall | 10m | ★ Bon | |||
When logging this ascent, I couldn't decide if the route is good or just average, but overall, I had fun and found it interesting. The lower part up to the 3rd bolt is a bit chossy, at least the foot holds, but then it gets solid and I enjoyed it.
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Dim 11 Avr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Krögelstein Teufelslöcherwände | ||||||
6+ | ★ Alter Weg | 12m | ★★ Excellent | |||
7- | ★★ Maps mag das | 12m | ★★ Excellent | |||
First bolt pre-clipped, struggled with the first boulder moves and needed several tries. Jug fest at the top.
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6 | ★ Genehmigt! | 12m | ★ Bon | |||
Also first bolt pre-clipped, I must have been in better shape back then when I onsighted this?
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Ven 2 Avr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Schlehenmühle Heidelberg | ||||||
6 | ★ Enzian | 12m | ★ Bon | |||
Hard getting over the third bolt (and to the fourth), I didn't find any really good holds to pull myself up at least. Felt harder than 6, but maybe I just didn't find the correct solution? I had fun though and it was cool up to the third bolt, with some great slits and even a little of "traversing" (ok, maybe one or two moves to the side instead of upwards )
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7 | ★★ Für Heike | 12m, 6 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Very nice! Great pockets/slits everywhere, the last part was too hard for me, as I hoped for a "rescue jug" but there was none
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6 | ★ Grüne Verschneidung | ★ Bon | ||||
Dihedral #warmup, why not
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6+ | ★ Distel | ★ Bon | ||||
Two loose blocks under the second bolt (marked with chalk). Distance between second and third bolt may look far, but is surprisingly juggy. Not bad!
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6 | Veilchenweg | 15m | Pas la peine | |||
Meh. Dirty slab in the lower part, dirty in the upper part (with good holds though). But after seeing the others struggle and how slippery the lower part is, I decided to just top rope it.
I should've checked Christoph's logs before, then we would've avoided this |
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Dim 28 Mars 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Lehenhammertal Oeder Wand | ||||||
4+ | ★ Westwand - avec David X | ★ Bon | ||||
Huge flakes, a traverse and then scramble to the anchor.
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Dim 28 Mars 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Lehenhammertal Riesturm | ||||||
5+ | ★★ Südwestkante - avec David X | 20m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Climbed this back in 2015. Still awesome!
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7- | ★ Südostkante - avec David X | 12m, 2 | ★ Bon | |||
Nice climbing along a cool crack to the first bolt. Reachy move to a good hold to get over the bulge. Happy it worked out for me
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5+ | ★ Ostwand - avec David X | 12m, 6 | ★ Bon | |||
#warmup Good route, quite a high number of bolts in this route
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6+ | ★★ Direkte Talseite (Westwand) - avec David X | 20m, 6 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Climbed this back in 2015. Still awesome!
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Ven 26 Mars 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Schwarzer Brand Röthenbacher Wand | ||||||
5+ | ★ Jakobsweg - avec mantra | 11m | ★ Bon | |||
Fun!
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6+ | ★★ Georg Meier Gedenkweg - avec mantra | 12m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Really nice varied climb!
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7- | ★ Höhlenknarf - avec mantra | 10m | ★★ Excellent | |||
High first bolt through the slab. After reaching the "cave" I tried to go straight up which didn't work. To the right there is a jugfest waiting to be used to get you over the bulge.
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7- | ★ Höhlenknarf - avec mantra | 10m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Tried it again, because I knew I could do it, but slipped on a sandy jug Still fun trying it again.
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