Affichant les 85 ascensions total.
Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | |||
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Lun 12 Avr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Roter Fels | ||||||
7- |
★★★ Schaumschläger
![]() | 37m, 12 | ★★★ Classique | |||
warm-up #repeat
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Sam 10 Avr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Krottenseer Forst Maximilianswand Maximilianswand | ||||||
7+ 7 |
★★ Zwiespalt
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Wow, adventurous and definitely a proud onsight for me! I expected more than 6b but this was quite hard! I was happy I could manage the bouldery start right away – one finger was a little numb after one pointy pocket. The juggy blocks above the boulder look rather chossy and the moves from the no hands ledge further up are tough because of polished footholds. The victory jug before the route eases off, is a small herb garden and I almost slipped off. Not possible to remove that with a regular brush. I respect the original grade but I think in a modern context, also considering the added difficulty of the now polished holds, this would be somewhere in the 6c to 6c+ range. After doing it only once, I think I can't upgrade it that much though. But maybe it has always been a little sandbagged.
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6- |
★ Sonnenkönig
![]() | 15m, 3 | ★ Bon | |||
Nicely textured rock but very easy for the most part. The crux is okay - not very interesting as it's basically a balancy reach to a jug. Still a nice climb.
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7+ |
★★ Ansbacher Weg
![]() | 14m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Nice one! Great gym like climbing, if you know where to go. 2nd go #sportRP
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Ven 9 Avr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Neuhaus Weißenstein | ||||||
8- |
★★★ Wilde 13
![]() | 14m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Ticked 4 years after! Felt super tough in the cold yesterday. Fast and solid 1st go send today on someone else's QDs. #sportRP
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7- |
★★ Kaminpfeiler
![]() | 15m, 4 | ||||
#lastrouteoftheday tired
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6- |
★ This is the end
![]() | 15m, 4 | ||||
warm-up.
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7 |
★★ Erste Affäre
![]() | 14m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
#repeat 2nd warm-up.
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Jeu 8 Avr 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Neuhaus Weißenstein | ||||||
6+ |
★★ R9
![]() | 15m | ★ Bon | |||
#repeat warm-up.
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6 |
★★ Mon Marie
![]() | 15m, 7 | ★ Bon | |||
#repeat warm-up
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7 |
★★ Erste Affäre
![]() | 14m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Fun, rather bouldery crux.
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7+ |
★★ Panische Zeiten
![]() | 14m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | |||
By the skin of my teeth! I did one move into an undercling that I instantly regretted and almost fell of while pulling up into it. Also it felt like the pump made my hands even colder. Limit for 4°C today.
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Ven 7 Août 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Allersdorf Lindenstein | ||||||
4 |
★ Ostkante
![]() | 15m, 3 | ★ Bon | |||
Nice view. The sling was removed. One possible sling placement looked worn out so maybe thats why. I put a sling of my own somewhere else.
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5+ |
★ Holger Danske
![]() | 16m, 3 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Funky start. I'm sure I didn't take the easiest way. Nice pebble slab to the top of the tower.
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6+ 6+/7- |
★★ Boxdorfer Weg
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★ Bon | |||
The jugs at the top look quite loose. Demanding for the grade.
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Mer 5 Août 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Pottenstein Neue Heimat | ||||||
5 |
★ Cafe Caspary
![]() | 9m, 4 | Dans la moyenne | |||
7+ |
★★ Kaputtbohrer
![]() | 10m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Nice, bouldery route. In the first, steep part there's not much time to find the right solution.
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7- |
★ Kaum Zeit zum Fürchten
![]() | 9m, 6 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Some longer moves on good holds. Fun!
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5 |
★★ Frankenplaisir
![]() | 9m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Fun and easy climbing if you can find the sequence and the holds.
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Mar 4 Août 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Oberes Wiesenttal Treunitzer Klettergarten | ||||||
6+ |
★★ Vertikale (R4)
![]() | 22m, 4 | ★ Bon | |||
5+ 4/4+ |
★ R5
![]() | 15m, 3 | ★ Bon | |||
6+ |
★★ Pfeilerweg. (R7)
![]() | 18m, 6 | ★ Bon | |||
6 6- |
★ Streck Dich! (R 11)
![]() | 13m, 4 | ★ Bon | |||
Lun 3 Août 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Graisch, Leienfels, Bärnfels Graischenstein Graischenstein-Hinterer Teil | ||||||
8- |
★★ Alte und Jungnasen
![]() | 15m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Hard to onsight for me - Choosing the right feet on a bulge isn't my strenght it seems. Felt appropriate for the grade 2nd go. The bolting is not that encouranging but the hard sections have bolts. #sportRP
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3 |
★ Steile Rinne
![]() | 11m, 3 | ★ Bon | |||
5- 4+ |
★ Adams Rippe
![]() | 12m, 4 | ★ Bon | |||
5- |
★★ Spirale
![]() | 14m | ★★ Excellent | |||
7- 6+ |
★★ Schweizer Käse
![]() | 10m, 4 | ★ Bon | |||
Felt like falling off several times. Maybe because of humidity and the abundance of holds.
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Dim 24 Nov. 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Röthelfels Weiße Wand | ||||||
8 |
★★ Hier geblieben!
![]() | 22m | ★★ Excellent | |||
I found something onsightable! yay. Techy and vertical to slightly overhanging. Grade seemed fitting.
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8 |
★★★ Bilderbuch
![]() | 25m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Really, really good! Long moves on rather big pockets, shake out holds, traverse into a great layback section, high feet off a pinchable sidepull-edge and small but incut crimp (crux), then a few more techy and delicate moves to the top. 2nd go send! My first 7a in Frankenjura. #sportRP
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7- |
★★ Weiße Wand
![]() | 25m | ★ Bon | |||
Not so obvious. Onsighting felt 6b/+.
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Sam 23 Nov. 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Röthelfels Main | ||||||
7 |
★★ Für Dich
![]() | 28m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Beautiful techy climbing but never desperate. Awesome!
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6+ |
★★ Ratte
![]() | 30m, 8 | ★★ Excellent | |||
A great climb! Felt 6a/+.
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5+ |
★★ Kleiner Bär
![]() | 30m | ★ Bon | |||
Probably did a "combi" of this and R4a plus the bulge (wrong indication in topo) plus traversing to the anchor to the left.
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5- |
★★ Immos delight
![]() | 25m, 3 | ★ Bon | |||
5b?
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Sam 15 Juin 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Großenoher Tal Großenoher Wand | ||||||
7 |
★★ Mandel Gedenkweg
![]() | 18m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Nice technical moves and surprisingly a good warm-up.
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Ven 14 Juin 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Bärnhof Katzenlöcher Bärnhofer Wand | ||||||
7 |
★★★ Waldrausch
![]() | 22m, 5 | ★★★ Classique | |||
#repeat Still pumpy!
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7- |
★★ Moralapostel
![]() | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Fun moves on big holds.
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Ven 14 Juin 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Bärnhof Katzenlöcher Fer-May Wand | ||||||
7- |
★★ Bremse auch für Schwaben
![]() | 15m | ★ Bon | |||
Got a little confused and almost fell.
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Ven 14 Juin 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Bärnhof Katzenlöcher SASN Wand | ||||||
6 |
★★ Alter Weg
![]() | 18m | ★ Bon | |||
One tricky part in the traverse – especially if you have long legs I guess.
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Dim 4 Nov. 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Obertrubach Hartelstein | ||||||
3 |
★★★ Südwand
![]() | 32m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Good easy climbing, nice view. A fun thing to do in a group of three.
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Dim 4 Nov. 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Obertrubach Richard-Wagner-Fels | ||||||
6- |
★ Adolf Göttner Gedenkweg
![]() | 40m, 4 | ★ Bon | |||
Christoph Rauch showing me a different style of climbing. The route itself is a lot better than it looks from below! I can't imagine leading in this style yet but following was fun. Nice little adventure.
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Dim 4 Nov. 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Obertrubach Zehnerstein | ||||||
7- |
★★ Lineal
![]() | 30m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Polished 5b into good 6a+/b. Nice view.
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Sam 3 Nov. 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schwarze Wand | ||||||
7+ |
★★ Peitsche
![]() | 25m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Very pretty and super badass at the same time! Had to give a lot for the flash!
Draws in, some beta and encouragement by Christoph Rauch. "No, that's the best hold there. Yes, just do the move" Standing high above the bolt in the first laybacl section feels airy! |
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8- |
★★ Sysiphos
![]() | 25m, 8 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Great! One of the best routes of the style I did so far. The rock feels a bit like sandstone here. The top part is a nice slab.
Some beta and encouragement by Christoph Rauch. Draws in by myself. |
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6+ |
★ Schwarze Wand
![]() | 30m | ★ Bon | |||
Followed Christoph Rauch 's draws which turned out to be a combi of Schwarze Wand and the top bit of Schlemmerplatte.
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Ven 2 Nov. 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Graisch, Leienfels, Bärnfels Soranger Wand | ||||||
8- |
★ A-Hörnchen
![]() | 8m, 4 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Steep, mostly on big holds. Hard anchor clip. I fell trying to dyno to the last pocket which is the worst hold I had to use in the route. RP 2nd go clipping the anchor from an undercling, doing the move to the pocket statically and then "matching" the top pocket competition-style to have a legitimate ascent (8m route, 2m wingspan)
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7 |
★ Sauwetter
![]() | 10m | ★ Bon | |||
Jugs!
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7- |
★★ Zeitspiel
![]() | 12m | ★★ Excellent | |||
A techy layback crack crux. Very nice.
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6+ |
★ Aus die Maus
![]() | 12m | ★ Bon | |||
Jeu 1 Nov. 2018 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Burggaillenreuth Heinrichsgrotte Links | ||||||
7+ |
★★ Mein Wort zum Sonntag
![]() | 17m, 6 | ★★ Excellent | |||
7 |
★ Für Göre
![]() | 17m, 3 | ★★ Excellent | |||
8- 7+/8- |
★★ Flottes Lottchen
![]() | 17m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Dim 28 Mai 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Obertrubach Reichelsmühler Wand | ||||||
6 |
★ Green Dragon
![]() | 13m | ★ Bon | |||
Probably a nice little route but I had nothing left in the tank so that it felt pretty unpleasant. Last climb for the trip.
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6+ |
★★ Schönes Fragezeichen (Unnamed 2)
![]() | 13m | ★ Bon | |||
Pumpy on big polished holds. We met Sean Villanueva at the crag. #fanboy
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Sam 27 Mai 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Bärnhof Katzenlöcher Bärnhofer Wand | ||||||
6 |
★★ Frost-Fertinger-Weg
![]() | 20m | ★ Bon | |||
Uncomfortable first moves, nice above. A bit polished but not too bad.
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Sam 27 Mai 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Bärnhof Katzenlöcher Fer-May Wand | ||||||
6 |
★★ Sad Lisa
![]() | 10m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Polished and covered in chalk when I did this. Nice pockets but nothing special imo.
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Sam 27 Mai 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Bärnhof Katzenlöcher Bärnhofer Wand | ||||||
7 |
★★★ Waldrausch
![]() | 22m, 5 | ★★★ Classique | |||
One of my Frankenjura favorites so far! Harder than its right neighbor but more beautiful. Typical Frankenjura bolting style - huge runout s but well placed bolts. Nice and relaxed slab to the bulge, then committing moves to the upper part which offers beautiful, logical and pumpy climbing. I used a 60cm draw below the bulge - you probably don't want to fall into any draw clipped to that bolt. Comitting move over the bulge, pumpy above. Airy bolting as well. Felt nowhere near 6b and a lot harder than other routes of the same grade in Franken.
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7- |
★★ Moni und kein Ende
![]() | 25m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Searching for holds above the overhang got pretty exhausting because there's a lot to choose from.
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Sam 27 Mai 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Bärnhof Katzenlöcher Noristurm | ||||||
6 |
★★ Direkte Talseite
![]() | 20m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Good climbing onto an exposed tower. Being on top is an experience on it's own.
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Ven 26 Mai 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Hartenstein Hartensteiner Wand | ||||||
4 |
Kurzer Riss
![]() | 10m, 1 | ★ Bon | |||
6+ |
★ Secret life
![]() | 20m, 7 | ★ Bon | |||
6- |
★★ Aprilscherz
![]() | 12m, 3 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Consistent difficulty and nice moves.
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6 |
★★ Ziech oder Fliech
![]() | 14m, 3 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Cool route for the grade. With a small roof step.
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7 |
★★ Donnerwetter
![]() | 25m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Beautiful climbing to a somewhat awkward crux at the final bulge.
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7 |
★★ Surprise
![]() | 20m, 5 | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Consistent climbing to the crux just below the anchor. Fun to watch others on their onsight attempt. One of the best routes I know in Franken!
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Jeu 25 Mai 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Intensivstation Hohes Eck | ||||||
5 |
36 Grad
![]() | 12m | Pas la peine | |||
Some loose rock.
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6 |
★★ Die Leiden des W.
![]() | 18m, 4 | Dans la moyenne | |||
I wouldn't call the upper part climbing. The lower two thirds are good.
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6 |
★ Krabbelstunde
![]() | 16m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Slightly chossy corner. Appropriate name - Probably a small people climb.
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Jeu 25 Mai 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Amerikanische Botschaft | ||||||
7- |
★★ Ronald McDonald
![]() | 10m | ★ Bon | |||
Some moves felt a bit awkward.
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7 |
★★ Bushtrommel
![]() | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Crux for me was keeping calm. Every move very doable.
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6+ |
★ First Lady
![]() | 10m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Consistent pocket endurance climbing. Good rock quality.
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Jeu 25 Mai 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Püttlachtal Intensivstation Hohes Eck | ||||||
7 |
Überall und nirgendwo
![]() | 16m | Dans la moyenne | |||
Delicate climbing to a boulder crux at mid height. Easy above.
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Lun 1 Mai 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Röthelfels Left | ||||||
6 |
★ Merklriss rechter Ausstieg (Merklriss Direkt)
![]() | 25m | ★ Bon | |||
A slightly overhanging corner with big holds. A bit of scrambling onto a nice slab.
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7- |
★★ Via Donatella
![]() | 20m | ★ Bon | |||
I didn't find the "sloper crux" everyone was talking about. So for me the crux were the first moves.
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7 |
★★★ Götterbogen
![]() | 12m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Shirt off for the first time in Franken! Had no beta and found a good intuitive solution.
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Dim 30 Avr 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Roter Fels | ||||||
5 |
★ Softmover
![]() | 14m, 5 | Pas la peine | |||
A polished and uninspiring climb.
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Dim 30 Avr 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Plech Schöne Aussicht | ||||||
7- |
★ Schöner Riss
![]() | 12m | ★ Bon | |||
6+ in the Schwertner Guide. Felt hard for that grade and was quite polished - just like other routes in this sector.
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Dim 30 Avr 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Roter Fels | ||||||
7- |
★★★ Schaumschläger
![]() | 37m, 12 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Great climb except for 5 metres of chossy looking rock. Great view and probably the longest singlepitch I did so far.
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7- |
★★ Harter Hund
![]() | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Just great climbing. Onsighting it as the first route of the day felt so good!
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Sam 29 Avr 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Neuhaus Weißenstein | ||||||
4 |
★ Zwischenfall
![]() | 15m | ★ Bon | |||
My first climb of this kind! Polished but still fun.
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6 |
★ Buchenleiter
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★ Bon | |||
Ven 28 Avr 2017 - Frankenjura Nord | ||||||
Hersbrucker Schweiz Neuhaus Weißenstein | ||||||
6+ |
★★ R9
![]() | 15m | ★ Bon | |||
Gear to first bolt by Chris.
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6 |
★★ Mon Marie
![]() | 15m, 7 | ★ Bon | |||
My first route in Frankenjura!
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7- |
★★ Verlobungsweg
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Flash in the dark with a headlamp after arriving late for our very first time in Franken! Got into a better flow than on my next day repeat.
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Affichant les 85 ascensions total.