Affichant les 53 ascensions total.
Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | Grimpeur | |||
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Mar 28 Mai 2024 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Amberger Gebiet Schwend Kalmusfels | |||||||
8+ to 9- ~8 | ★ Kochen ohne Knochen — 2 essais | ★ Bon | |||||
Mit den Griffen rechts und meiner Größe eher 8/8+.
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Dim 10 Sept 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Amberger Gebiet Schwend Kalmusfels | |||||||
5 ~5+ | Krokant - avec Anna Kolářová | 12m | ★ Bon | ||||
one harder move near last bolt
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Jeu 13 Juil 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Amberger Gebiet Schwend Schwender Wand | |||||||
7- | ★★ Big Foot - avec Ellen | ★★ Excellent | |||||
Tried to do the extension as well (Little Foot, not on thecrag, not logged). Got confused in the bulge...
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8- | ★★ Wandtanz - avec Ellen | ||||||
Really cool but very hard for me. Had to rest at basically every single bolt. I think I found good solutions for everything but was way too exhausted afterwards. Other sources put this at 8/8+ which doesn't seem too far off actually.
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Dim 2 Juil 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Amberger Gebiet Schwend Kalmusfels | |||||||
6+ ~6 | ★ Thaifrog - avec Matyáš Lang | 18m | ★ Bon | ||||
Following the edge from a last bolt makes it much easier
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Dim 11 Juin 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Amberger Gebiet Schwend Kalmusfels | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Sag niemals nie — 2 essais - avec Markus | 20m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
High first bolt, but start is easier than it seems. Relaxed climbing up to the bulge. Then left (shorter) or right (more stable to clip). Got much easier on 2nd attempt.
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7 | ★★ Living on the Edge - avec Markus | 18m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Nice along the arete (6?), then rest on the plateau. Crux move is just above the plateau, making it hard to commit. I asked the climber in the next route to place the draw, giving me the needed extra 10cm.
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7- | ★★ Walk the Line - avec Markus | 18m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Face climbing with a short onsight crux and nice crack at the exit
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5 ~5+ | Krokant - avec Markus | 12m | ★ Bon | ||||
Very friendly bolting for the region and grade
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6- Difficile | ★★ Zuckerschnecke - avec Markus | 12m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Short, consistent and nice
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7+ | ★★ Sag niemals nie | 20m | |||||
2nd go - schwierig zu lesen, aber dann einfach zu klettern
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7- | ★★ Walk the Line | 18m | |||||
Ein bisschen viel verlesen in der Cruxsequenz beim onsight attempt
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Lun 8 Mai 2023 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Amberger Gebiet Schwend Kalmusfels | |||||||
6+ | ★ Freie Auswahl | 11m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Nice route, little crux by the end but fairly bolted.
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6- Difficile | ★★ Zuckerschnecke — 2 essais | 12m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Long distance and relatively hard part between last bolt and the anchor.
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Dim 6 Nov. 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Amberger Gebiet Schwend Kalmusfels | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Kalmuspfeiler (direkt) - avec nugmaguggn | 16m | |||||
4.5°C bewölkt und windig anstelle der angekündigten 9°C, aua Hände!
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Mar 9 Août 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Amberger Gebiet Schwend Bettelmannsfels Nord | |||||||
6 | ★★ Lufthunger - avec Joshua | 12m | |||||
Not enough strength, climb to 2nd hook
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6- | Lichterland - avec Joshua | 12m | |||||
No power at the end, skipped trains by pulling up on the rope
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Mar 9 Août 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Amberger Gebiet Schwend Bettelmannsfels Süd | |||||||
7- | ★★ Goldener Herbst - avec Joshua | 14m | |||||
Attempt to lead
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7+ | ★★ Pflück' sie Dir! | 15m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
2 rests, before and a bit after crux (3rd/4th bolt)
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Mar 9 Août 2022 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Amberger Gebiet Schwend Bettelmannsfels Nord | |||||||
7 | ★★ Denkerotik | 14m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
1 rest because I had to laugh 🥲
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6 | ★★ Lufthunger - avec Lorenz | 12m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
bolts are a wee bit far apart
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Dim 5 Sept 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Amberger Gebiet Schwend Kalmusfels | |||||||
7- | ★★ Walk the Line | 18m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Nice climbing and too crimpy, did it with 2 unusable fingers
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7- | ★★ Push It | 15m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Big pockets in a small roof, good enough even for the temporarily handicapped
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7+ | ★★ Sag niemals nie | 20m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Finger injury kicked in, not good mate
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Lun 23 Août 2021 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Amberger Gebiet Schwend Kalmusfels | |||||||
4+ 5 | ★ Simiramis | 16m | ★ Bon | ||||
Erst hat es genieselt, dann geschüttert.
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Sam 25 Juil 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Amberger Gebiet Schwend Bettelmannsfels Süd | |||||||
8- | ★★ Mut zum Wildern - avec Lukas | 15m | ★★★ Classique | ||||
One very wide reach for shorter climbers in the lower part around the second bolt. The crux part around the 4th and up to 5th bolt is quite technical and just pure type I fun (in toprope). // My beta: I took the good flake as a side pull with the right and made a heelhook with my left foot to where my left hand was, matched hands and reached with my right the tiny crimp above the micro crimp above me and then just didn't let go and pulled with my right and pushed with my heelhook until I could reach the next good hold with my left. Very rewarding, 5/7, would definitely like to try again!
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Dim 31 Mai 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Amberger Gebiet Schwend Kalvarienwand | |||||||
7- | ★★ Fuck and Go | ★ Bon | |||||
Schöne Tour, nicht ganz leicht für 7-.
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Sam 23 Mai 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Amberger Gebiet Schwend Kalmusfels | |||||||
7- | ★★ Push It - avec Johannes | 15m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Znaaaa
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7- | ★★ My beautiful won! - avec Johannes | 10m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Am dritten muss man halt dran bleiben!
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6+ | ★ Talseite (unnamed 1) - avec Johannes | 15m, 4 | ★ Bon | ||||
Schön, wenn auch weite Abstände.
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Ven 22 Mai 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Amberger Gebiet Schwend Kalmusfels | |||||||
6- 6+ | ★ Freie Auswahl - avec Joschka | 11m, 5 | Dans la moyenne | ||||
da stimmt was nicht bei der Schwierigkeit...
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6- | ★★ Zuckerschnecke - avec Joschka | 12m | |||||
Aufwärmen
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7- | ★★ Walk the Line (unnamed 2) - avec Joschka | 18m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Walk the line, voll fein.
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7- | ★★ Vom Feinsten - avec Joschka | 20m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Fußarbeit, sehr schön.
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7+ | ★★ Sag niemals nie - avec Joschka | 20m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Rrrr, Schlüsselstelle aber noch rausgefunden. Nochmal!
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7+ | ★★ Sag niemals nie - avec Isa | 20m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Jeah!
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6+ | ★★ Minas Morgul - avec Isa | 15m | ★ Bon | ||||
Aua, scharf.
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7- | ★★ Push It - avec Isa | 15m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Geiles Gehenkel!
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Jeu 21 Mai 2020 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Amberger Gebiet Schwend Kalmusfels | |||||||
7- | ★★ Vom Feinsten - avec Lukas | 20m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
The skin on my hands was not with me today, sadly.
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7- | ★★ My beautiful won! - avec Lukas | 10m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Climbed to third bolt in second, from there to the top in lead. Nice big holds, bouldery in the start and before the last bolt.
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6- | ★★ Krokofant - avec Lukas | 20m | ★ Bon | ||||
For smaller climbers the good clip positions are a bit reachy.
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Mer 11 Sept 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Amberger Gebiet Schwend Kalmusfels | |||||||
6+ | ★★ Minas Morgul | 15m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Dusk ascent!
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Sam 13 Juil 2019 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Amberger Gebiet Schwend Kalmusfels | |||||||
9- | ★★ Isengart (unnamed6) | 15m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Isengart heißt die Route
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Jeu 1 Sept 2016 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Amberger Gebiet Schwend Kalmusfels | |||||||
6+ | ★ Talseite (unnamed 1) - avec Bovist | 15m, 4 | ★ Bon | ||||
Nice route, should have a name!
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6+ | ★★ Jelly Fish - avec Bovist | 12m | ★ Bon | ||||
Very short, great warmup.
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6 6+ | ★ Geht eh guat! (unnamed 3) - avec Bovist | 20m, 6 | Dans la moyenne | ||||
Nice, long and diverse route.
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7+ | ★★ Sag niemals nie - avec Bovist | 20m | ★ Bon | ||||
Two dynamic moves into big jugs followed by a section on small crimpy pockets. Hard, but quite nice.
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7 | ★★ Hammerfrau - avec Bovist | 10m | ★ Bon | ||||
The holds are a bit sharper than in "Push It", but just as good.
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Sam 27 Août 2016 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Amberger Gebiet Schwend Kalmusfels | |||||||
7- | ★★ Walk the Line (unnamed 2) | 18m | |||||
Walk the line
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Mer 17 Août 2016 - Frankenjura Nord | |||||||
Amberger Gebiet Schwend Kalmusfels | |||||||
8- | ★★ Helms Klamm - avec Daniel | 15m, 6 | ★ Bon | ||||
Nice vertical route on crimps.
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6+ | ★ Minas Tirith - avec Daniel | 15m | ★ Bon | ||||
Nice reddish rock, good pockets. The crux is at the last bolt, traversing a bit to the right.
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7- | ★★ Push It - avec Daniel | 15m | ★★ Excellent | ||||
Perfect jugs in the overhang, you basically don't need your feet.
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8 | ★ Geflecktes Zebra - avec Daniel | 20m | ★ Bon | ||||
Only one hard passage in the middle; hard to get the quickdraw into the bolt there … nice quartz crystals in the upper part.
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Affichant les 53 ascensions total.