Ascensions dans Schmilka contenant Bêta

jenom pod vrcholovou hlavu kvůli dešti, ale už jsem ji lezl

Kakani ve žlábku=pytel

Jenom k poslednimu

bad protection

again retreated from the key part

This route would deserve Ultra Classic

Epic line all the way.

Hard moves just below 1.R. Original Talseite is better. The best would be to start from Talseite ledge and follow the edge all the way to the summit. #mw74

Ohne Unterstützung und mit Einstiegsvariante

EV not recommended

not my day I guess

probably harder due to the broken hold

I had to rest in 2.R. I'd say IXa/IXb for RP and VIIIc for AF is correct. Quite well protected despite the "!". No slings between 1.R and 2.R. Two quite good SU on the edge above 2.R, cca 4m and 6m above. One massive SU 7m above 3.R. Two more slings to the top.

3rd repeat / 3.Beg

17 Beg.

Nachstieg vog. und mit Unterstützung

Nachstieg vog

Soloed the first pitch after a quick abseil, then soloed the second pitch with rope attached. Nice little chimney/offwidth practice at the start of the second pitch.

Gestartet von der Scharte aus, nach der Abseile des zweiten Lehnsteigturmes.

Took us a while to find the start. Funny stroll through the chimney at the beginning, then some intimidating meters across the chasms to the big slab with belay ring. Fiddled around with a sling for a while from there, then realized there's a huge jug after the first move. From the ledge (you can extend the abseil anchor far right), it's an interesting steep groove to a ring and enjoyable slab climbing to the top.

Solo with rope attached. Very nice and quite safe. The upper part looks intimidating, but there are lots of hidden jugs. Second pitch from the balcony is just a formality.

Looooong traverse around half the tower. There are a few good placements for slings, but I didn't want to introduce drag, so I didn't put any protection in. You can more easily belay your second, too, by walking along the top of the tower.

One of the best VIIa's I have climbed

Reeealy hard. Could be VIIIc-IXa RP. Sustained for 30m and exhausting physically and psychically. Hard clipping too.

VIIb da keine Rotpunktbegehung

impossible!

Vorstieg: Peter, Flo

Erwähnung zur Südrinne Schwierigkeit V

epic route.. highly recommended. Key are slab moves after 7.R - left from R and not direct.

45m straight line to the top

Epic route. Gorgeous all the way up.

Didn't do the part that would have been VI (right at the start, the first 3 meters), because I didn't have my crack gloves and the crack was just too painful to jam. So I grabbed the knot sling instead.

Stayed as deep as possible in the chimney. Not sure if that was harder, but definitely more exhausting.

Fantastic friction arête that must have been really hard to climb without sticky rubber … in 1916. The protection is spaced, but you wouldn't want to fall anyway. Two hard friction moves, the rest is easier but always demanding. Huge summit, quite the hike to the book case. Perfect finish for the trip. #lastrouteoftheday

"Saxonian mountaineering". Steep slab downclimbing, a little traverse and then a step over to the other summit. Basically top-rope on lead, it's best to belay the second from two sides (or via the abseil loop). Funny business.

"Standard" chimney (I would say II or III) to a good ledge with two rock tunnels. A little left over the slabby pillar, crux move on two smaller crimps to the ring. The finish is fine with a little slab technique, to the right of the ring (sidepulls).