Campania e Lucania Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Campania e Lucania 973 routes in Region

13 19 28 10 14 11 17 27 24 15 16 1 26 9 25 20 21 12 23 22 3 4 8 2 29 18 30 5 7 6

1 Matera 2 Monte Armizzone 3 Pietra del Tasso 4 Pietra Maura 5 Viggianello Santa Rosalia 6 Madonna del Pollino 7 Terranova di Pollino 8 Viggiano 9 Capo di Orso 10 Faicchio 11 Falesia dell'Eremo 12 Furore 13 Gallo Matese 14 La Leonessa 15 Lettere 16 Monte San Liberatore 17 Monte Tifata 18 Palinuro 19 Pescopanni 20 Positano 21 Sentiero Degli Dei 22 Postiglione 23 Punta Campanella 24 Sant'Antonio Abate 25 Torre dello Ziro 26 Valle delle Ferriere 27 Avella 28 Cusano Mutri 29 Castelsaraceno 30 Vecchia Stazione Fcl Lauria

Summary:

J

F

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M

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Saison

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 40.733121, 15.326633

1.1. Matera 12 routes in Crag

1

1 Murgia Timone

Summary:

Lat / Long: 40.673248, 16.616067

1.1.1. Murgia Timone 12 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 40.674539, 16.626007

approche

From Matera, drive on the SS7 towards Laterza, then after around 1.5 km turn right towards Jazzo Gattini - centro visite. Park the car there and follow the path down the cliff.

1.2. Monte Armizzone 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 40.209433, 15.953883

1.3. Pietra del Tasso 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 40.513808, 15.761279

1.4. Pietra Maura 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 40.447086, 15.738105

1.4.1. Strapiombi Bassi 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

1.5. Viggianello Santa Rosalia 45 routes in Crag

3 2 1

1 La Grotta 2 Pietre Liscie 3 Santa Rosalia

Summary:

Lat / Long: 39.992378, 16.102936

1.5.1. La Grotta 14 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 39.990081, 16.106271

approche

Drive to the small village of Pietre Liscie. You can park near the the fountain.

1.5.2. Pietre Liscie 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 39.990832, 16.103019

approche

Drive to the small village of Pietre Liscie. You can park near the the fountain.

1.5.3. Santa Rosalia 21 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 39.991269, 16.099475

approche

Parking spaces available, approach 1 minute only.

1.6. Madonna del Pollino 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 39.947866, 16.178632

description

3 short, but nice routes. Located directly at a hiking path. There are 3 more routes above these, but to reach them, you have to climb up and walk 100m to the right.

approche

Use the hiking path to Serra di Crispo for 100m. The routes are on the left.

où dormir

Rifugio Pino Loricato (open in summer)

1.7. Terranova di Pollino 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 39.980209, 16.306315

description

Short routes. There is loose rock, but somehow you get used to it and become aware that the area is worth climbing there.

approche

Driving east from Terranova di Pollino (direction of Cersosimo), turn left at the cemetery of Terranova. The road goes up to the Santuario Madonna della Pietà. Follow the road than less than an kilometer, the rock is located next to the street.

1.8. Viggiano 34 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 40.341582, 15.895862

1.8.1. Fosso di Helm 7 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

1.8.2. Isengard 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

1.8.3. Le Miniere di Moria 9 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

1.8.4. Gran Burrone 14 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

1.8.5. Mordor 1 route in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

1.9. Capo di Orso 42 routes in Crag

1 2

1 Ovest 2 Sud-Ovest

Summary:

Lat / Long: 40.638569, 14.681465

1.9.1. Ovest 34 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 40.638098, 14.681275

1.9.2. Sud-Ovest 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 40.637298, 14.681674

1.10. Faicchio 35 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 41.291424, 14.489312

1.10.1. Muro rosso 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

1.10.2. Muro grigio 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

1.10.3. Muro verde 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

1.10.4. Muro giallo 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

1.11. Falesia dell'Eremo 25 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 41.228121, 14.191940

1.12. Furore 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 40.617024, 14.552290

1.13. Gallo Matese 0 routes in Crag

1.14. La Leonessa 22 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 41.282685, 14.583511

1.15. Lettere 79 routes in Crag

5 3

3 Centrale - Grotta San Benedetto 5 Mazzocola

Summary:

Lat / Long: 40.709597, 14.551067

1.15.1. Pilastro 11 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

1.15.2. Centrale 18 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

1.15.3. Centrale - Grotta San Benedetto 21 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 40.710897, 14.552336

1.15.4. Dente Del Diavolo 16 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

1.15.5. Mazzocola 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 40.713715, 14.558189

1.16. Monte San Liberatore 71 routes in Crag

3

3 Caos

Summary:

Lat / Long: 40.678143, 14.728091

1.16.1. No Rain 20 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

1.16.2. Hawk 32 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

1.16.3. Caos 19 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 40.678154, 14.730561

1.17. Monte Tifata 52 routes in Crag

3 4 1 5 2 6

1 Torre delle Campannelle 2 Lo Scivolo degli Elfi 3 Settore di Sinistra 4 Settore Centrale 5 Settore di Destra 6 Le Placchette

Summary:

Lat / Long: 41.107691, 14.298682

résumé

----Crag in the process of re-bolting--- Crag with good quality rock, slab or vertical routes. Sectors facing South, great climb in sunny winter days.

description

IT_ La falesia Monte Tifata é uno dei luoghi preferiti dagli arrampicatori campani: facile da raggiungere, settori esposti a Sud, sono il luogo ideale dove imparare i fondamenti dell'arrampicata o perfezionare la tecnica su ottimo calcare.

Nelle giornate terse il panorama spazia dal Vesuvio alle isole di Capri ed Ischia, su tutta la Terra di Lavoro, sul Cratere Vulcanico di Roccamonfina, fino al Monte Massico ed al Golfo di Gaeta.

Accesso: Dalla A1 uscire al casello Caserta Nord e subito dopo svoltare a sinistra e ancora a sinistra percorrendo una larga strada che dopo una serie di curvegiunge ad un'incrocio a T. Svoltare a sinistra e dopo circa un chilometro e mezzo, prima di un cavalcavia, proseguire dritti in direzione della cava. Al bivio prendere la stradina a sinistra. Giunti ad un'ulteriore bivio girare a destra e tenendosi sempre sulla destra, portarsi a ridosso delle strutture rocciose peraltro già evidenti. In cinque o dieci minuti, a seconda del settore, si giunge alle pareti.

EN_ The Monte Tifata cliff is one of the favorite spots for climbers in Campania: easy to reach, south-facing sectors provide an ideal place to learn the basics of climbing or refine techniques on excellent limestone.

On clear days, the panorama extends from Vesuvius to the islands of Capri and Ischia, covering the entire Terra di Lavoro, the volcanic crater of Roccamonfina, all the way to Mount Massico and the Gulf of Gaeta.

Access: Exit the A1 at the Caserta Nord exit, then turn left and left again onto a wide road. After a series of curves, reach a T-junction. Turn left and, after about a kilometer and a half, just before an overpass, continue straight towards the quarry. At the crossroads, take the small road on the left. At another junction, turn right, staying on the right side, and approach the already visible rocky structures. In five or ten minutes, depending on the sector, you'll reach the climbing walls.

approche

First sector 5 min walk, the rest 10-15 min.

1.17.1. Torre delle Campannelle 18 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 41.097935, 14.283357

1.17.2. Lo Scivolo degli Elfi 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 41.097611, 14.284424

1.17.3. Settore di Sinistra 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 41.098007, 14.286344

1.17.4. Settore Centrale 13 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 41.097931, 14.286623

1.17.5. Settore di Destra 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 41.097800, 14.286847

1.17.6. Le Placchette 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 41.097338, 14.287313

1.18. Palinuro 80 routes in Area

3 1 2

1 Spiaggia Della Molpa 2 Camerota 3 La Severina

Summary:

Lat / Long: 40.057788, 15.336587

résumé

The region around Palinuro in southern Italy.

1.18.1. Spiaggia Della Molpa 44 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 40.029783, 15.299479

résumé

A great seaside cliff in Palinuro. Sees sun all day.

description

Limestone cliff with wonderful bolting. Some of the routes in the central and right sector have the names written at the bottom. Routes mostly bolted with titanium glue-ins and anchors with titanium rings.

approche

Parking space along Via Marinella. Pass the gate to the right and follow the dirtroad until it becomes an obvious path along the river. It will cross a small hill and lead you to the beach close to the School Sector. Walk along the beach for the central and right sector.

historique

In the 1980s Andrea Savonitto, Alessandro Gogna and Giuseppe Miotti opened traditional routes near the natural arch of Palinuro (on the far right of the Molpa cliff), at Punta di Cala Fetente and Punta Spartivento. A few years later Beppe Dallona and friends bolted a handful pitches on the left side of the Molpa cliff, close to the beach of the same name.

1.18.2. Camerota 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 40.027967, 15.373765

description

Crag right below Camerota, up in the hills. Climbing on overhanging tufas and pockets. Sometimes loose rock.

approche

Go to the end of Via Carmine, there you will find a board with general information on the crag. Follow the "trail" to the right of the board for about 5 minutes to get to the crag.

1.18.3. La Severina 30 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 40.085871, 15.347590

description

A steep wall full of stalactites.

approche

The crag is close to the ruins of the medieval village San Severino.

Geo Location not precise!

historique

Initially developed between 2019 and 2020. Watch this video for more about the crag and its history.

1.19. Pescopanni 0 routes in Crag

1.20. Positano 254 routes in Crag

2 11 13 1 4 7 3 14 6 10 12 8 5 9

1 Paretone 2 Tacchetteria 3 Cannabis 4 Piscione 5 Grotta del brigante Mirabella 6 Atlantide 7 Rinco 8 Falesia della Selva 9 Grotta dei Gufi 10 Canyon 11 Scalodromo (già muro Rispoli) 12 Jardin des sauvages 13 Verduniello 14 Monte Gambera

Summary:

Lat / Long: 40.633686, 14.495265

1.20.1. Paretone 23 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 40.636681, 14.481601

1.20.2. Tacchetteria 13 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 40.638338, 14.484442

1.20.3. Cannabis 21 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 40.635664, 14.493283

1.20.4. Piscione 11 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 40.636318, 14.495437

1.20.5. Grotta del brigante Mirabella 30 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 40.629405, 14.494717

1.20.6. Atlantide 15 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 40.633725, 14.490540

description

This sector on Monte Gambera offers spectacular views above the sea.

approche

Drive from Positano in direction of Montepertuso and Nocelle. Use the parking next to the soccer field in Montepertuso (40.633056, 14.493481). Cross the street and hike past the Ristorante bar Il Ritrovo and uphill until a trail leads left

1.20.7. Rinco 11 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 40.635743, 14.501821

1.20.8. Falesia della Selva 21 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 40.629626, 14.496846

1.20.9. Grotta dei Gufi 14 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 40.629315, 14.498871

1.20.10. Canyon 7 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 40.630570, 14.494864

1.20.11. Scalodromo (già muro Rispoli) 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 40.637811, 14.487567

1.20.12. Jardin des sauvages 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 40.629982, 14.497300

1.20.13. Verduniello 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 40.636966, 14.489864

1.20.14. Monte Gambera 66 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 40.634564, 14.490927

approche

Take the 417 Steps from Montepertuso behind the Restaurant Il Ritrovo. After the last step follow the nice path with the great view until the crags.

1.21. Sentiero Degli Dei 30 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Lat / Long: 40.621106, 14.526685

description

Cliff with 2 sectors, directly above the famous Sentiero Degli Dei (Walk of the Gods) on the Amalfi coast. Amazing views, variety of climbing styles including tufas on overhangs and delicate face climbs.

approche

Follow the signposted Walk of the Gods from the town of Bomerano (ideally from the carpark at the end of the road 'Sentiero Degli Dei' although parking is tight and limited) approx 20 min to the crag - it is only metres away above the walking track at one of the best scenic points. Water is available from springs along the path. Continue on to Micelle town another 30min for proper toilets and refreshments. Alternatively, take the Walk of the Gods from the other direction starting in Positano and hike the additional 1,500 steps up.

1.21.1. Sector Dei 14 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

description

Left-hand half of the cliff, facing Positano

1.21.2. Sector Semidei 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

1.21.3. Sector Miti 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

description

Sector to the right end of the cliff. There are 3 further routes far right with fixed hangers, the rock is loose and they are not recommended.

1.22. Postiglione 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 40.552698, 15.276488

1.23. Punta Campanella 25 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 40.569792, 14.325208

1.23.1. Paretone 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

1.23.2. Tempio Minerva 15 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

1.24. Sant'Antonio Abate 0 routes in Crag

1.25. Torre dello Ziro 24 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 40.637642, 14.604239

1.25.1. Arco Antico 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

1.25.2. Saraceni 18 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

1.26. Valle delle Ferriere 22 routes in Crag

1 2

1 Settore del Topastro 2 Settore Shiatsu

Summary:

Lat / Long: 40.649816, 14.595527

1.26.1. Settore del Topastro 20 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 40.650341, 14.595051

1.26.2. Settore Shiatsu 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

Lat / Long: 40.649452, 14.596911

1.27. Avella 38 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 40.959461, 14.621877

1.27.1. Capo di Ciesco 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

1.27.2. Ciesco della Fata 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

1.27.3. Crack 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

1.27.4. Nabirr 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive

1.28. Cusano Mutri 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 41.342577, 14.541883

1.29. Castelsaraceno 12 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 40.161700, 15.991100

1.30. Vecchia Stazione Fcl Lauria 4 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 40.044100, 15.848500

1.30.1. Sinistra 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

Tous Escalade sportive