Ascensions dans Sperlonga - Gaeta

as the last time i was in the Grotta: last go best go! I almost quit trying the route because it was so frustraiting not to get the kneebar into the big hole before the last boulder in order to have a decent rest. But then I found out that I coukd climb this last boulder even beeing pumped, and that got me syked and I fired the route off on the next (but last ) go!

first 8c!!! wohoo! what a line!

nice!

wow... I can't believe that I managed to climb this route! It was my last try of the trip and I knew that I had to give everything. the try before I fell on the last hard move so I was sure that I can complete this route. I think it is my hardest climb up to date, so 8b+ might be ok.

8a+/8b???? very hard end

hard beginning and a hard end

#2go for me definitely not 8a+. short and bouldery, like I like it =)

very steep wall, long

#2go strange to climb... there are three routes within three meters, so it's hard to say whether it is 8a or not. with my beta the route might be in the 7c+ range

for me the most obvious line in the cave. amazing climbing through the whole roof with a final easy boulder.

#2go Skipped all the chipped holds! totally unnecessary those holds...

Vertical and very compact wall. Seemed impossible from the ground and also while lowering down the route. But there are actually some holds and the route was climbable (at least the single moves were doable for me). Putting the moves together still seemed way too hard, and I also did not try one of the sections.

The holds get quite bad in the most overhanging part, it seemed way too hard for me, but maybe I should have tried longer.

Excellent dynamic moves with two distinct cruxes. Make sure to climb on the right side into the crux of the 7c+. If you climb too far left its too easy for 8a. Climbed the wrong way on the first go, but did it 2nd go, flashing the second crux

The 3rd anchor is at the long red quickdraw by the jug that looks like a tooth. Crux is to get to the tooth hold

The last part to the anchor seemed very hard with bad holds in an almost 90° overhang. I might try it again in a few days

Probably not really 7c+, maybe 7b+ or 7c. Nice long endurance route, climbed with a headlight since it was simply too hot until about 1 hour before sunset.

Amazing route. The skin hurt too much and there was too little power left on my third try, but the route is definitely doable.

Lower crux: take undercling far to the left with left hand, right foot to hand in order to take central undercling with right hand. Left hand up to sidecling jug, clip, right hand with three fingers in two holes in lower sidecling, left foot up, right high up, drop knee, right hand into intermediate bad one finger pocket, then bump into better sidecling, jump with left hand into jug. Upper crux: clip from crimp on the right, then with left hand into thinner sidecling, feet high up and left foot far to the left to go far up to tufa into small crimp. Right foot to good hold to the right, flag to bring left hand into even smaller crimp on other side of the tufa, bump right hand into better hold on the upper end of the tufa, left hand up to intermediate and then into good tufa hanging from the beginning of the horizontal roof. Right hand up, left hand further to the right but still in undercling to make room for kneebar, clip anchor.

1 go for putting the quickdraws, 5 tries falling at the first crux, one try falling just after the second crux, one successful go.

For next time