A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Philip MaM Lucas C Luca Danilo Miha Popovic Moxi Hook Defcon5 Nicola Clementel
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Cala Fuili
247 in Crag
- 1.1. Puschtra / Corvo Rosso 11 in Crag
- 1.2. Spiaggia Est 14 in Crag
- 1.3. Ferry 18 in Sector
- 1.4. Amelia / Spiaggia Ovest 21 in Sector
- 1.5. Le Petit Bateau 5 in Crag
- 1.6. Fuili-Cannonau 15 in Area
- 1.7. Strapiombi / Scalette 15 in Sector
- 1.8. Raoni 14 in Sector
- 1.9. Placca di fronte allo sperone 5 in Area
-
1.10.
Codula Fuili 115 in Crag
- 1.10.1. Tritoni / Grotta dei Tritoni 7 in Crag
- 1.10.2. Muro dell'umiltà & Imposta 18 in Sector
- 1.10.3. Pederiva 19 in Crag
- 1.10.4. Thailandia & Tribuna 42 in Sector
- 1.10.5. Zedda Piras 11 in Sector
- 1.10.6. Teatro 5 in Sector
- 1.10.7. La Vigianite / Grotta Vigiani 6 in Crag
- 1.10.8. Grotta dei Bimbi 7 in Crag
- 1.11. Paretine del Cannonau 13 in Crag
- 1.12. Senza Nome 1 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Cala Fuili 247 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
La plupart Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 40.257247, 9.620073
résumé
Some of the best and most beautiful climbing in all of Cala Gonone,all within a short walk of each other this spot has it all from face climbing over hangs to tufa climbing.
description
approche
Drive towards Cala Fuili and park at the end of the road. From the parking lot go down the stairs, the cliffs start from beach.
historique
Some of these routes have been recently re bolted, inspect all routes before climbing. there is a re-bolting fund being generated from the town to re bolt from the ocean back.
1.1. Puschtra 11 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Tous Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 40.255317, 9.624809
résumé
Located to the north of Cala Fuili beach, this crag has a real beauty located with an amazing view and some awesome cave climbing.
approche
From Cala Fuili beach head to the north end and follow cliff-line and ropes systems round.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Stessa Spiaggia Stesso Mare | 6b+ | 20m | |||||
2 | ★★ Puschtra | 7a+ | 20m | |||||
3 | ★★★ Nevrotica | 7a+ | 20m | |||||
4 | ★★★ My Way | 7a+ | 20m | |||||
5 | ★★★ Le Cause Perse | 7a | 20m | |||||
6 | ★★ Corvo Rosso | 6b+ | 25m | |||||
7 | ★ Chi Rompe Paga | 6b+ | 25m | |||||
8 | ★ Su Scottau | 6a+ | 10m | |||||
9 | ★★ L' Ingegnere | 6b | 10m | |||||
10 | ★★ La Prua | 7c | 10m | |||||
11 | ★ Senza Nome | 6c | 10m |
1.2. Spiaggia Est 14 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Tous Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 40.255771, 9.624232
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Bivouacs sous la lune | 5a | 15m | |||||
2 | La montagne aux écritures | 5b | 15m | |||||
3 | ★ La piste oubliée | 5b | 15m | |||||
4 | ★★ Rende-vous d'Essendilène | 4c | 10m | |||||
5 | ★ Le versant du soleil | 4c | 15m | |||||
6 | ★ Manga | 5a | 20m | |||||
7 | ★ Zia Lilith | 5b | 22m | |||||
8 | ★★ Spigolo Fuili | 5b | 25m | |||||
9 | ★★ Porto io i nuts!! / Ti do io i nuts! | 6a+ | 25m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
10 |
★★ Robinson
Hard boulder start then nice finish on bigger holds | 6b+ | 10m | |||||
11 | ★ Dubadabur | 7b | 7m | |||||
12 | ★ Via di Notte | 6b+ | 15m | |||||
13 | ★ Desideria | 6a | 25m | |||||
14 | ★★ Mad Max | 6b+ | 25m |
1.3. Ferry 18 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Tous Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 40.256531, 9.624383
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ una Giornata per la Terra | 5c | 15m | |||
2 | ★★ Ferry1 | 5b | 15m | |||
3 | ★ Ferry2 | 6a | 15m | |||
4 | ★★ Dieci Secondi | 6c | 15m | |||
5 | ★★ Faithful | 6a+ | 15m | |||
6 | ★★ La Bella Alice | 6b | 15m | |||
7 | ★ Groovy | 6a | 15m | |||
8 | ★★ Catalogna | 7a | 10m | |||
9 | ★ 14 modici euro | 6a+ | 15m | |||
10 | ★★ Il caimano | 6a+ | ||||
11 | ★ Pausa banana | 5b | 15m | |||
12 | Palle al balzo | 5a | 22m | |||
13 | ★★ Alcolica gazo | 5b | 25m | |||
14 | ★★★ Banane al Cioccolato | 5a | 20m | |||
15 | ★★ Cactus Joe | 5b | 15m | |||
16 | ★★ La Casa Segreta | 5a | 20m | |||
17 | ★★ Ponili Peppe | 5a | 20m | |||
18 | ★★ Fuochi d'artificio | 4c | 20m |
1.4. Amelia 21 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Tous Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 40.256782, 9.625598
description
15 to 35m high routes. Bolts in good condition. Obviously two brandnew routes (no names, left one 6c, right one 6b) in the center of the sector.
approche
Easy approach.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Pippon d'Oro | 6b+ | 25m | |||
2 |
★★★ Stirami il frac Amelia
FFA: F. Fele, 1987 | 7a | 25m | |||
3 | ★★ Lingua Biforca | 7c+ | 15m | |||
4 |
Non toccare la cialda
FA: 2020 | 5c | 12m | |||
5 | ★★★ NA | 6a+ | 18m | |||
6 | ★★ Unknown | 6b+ | 18m | |||
7 | ★★ Beligedda | 6a | 25m | |||
8 | ★★ Poppeye | 6a+ | 25m | |||
9 | ★★ Ponente | 5c | 25m | |||
10 | ★ Il bacio della sirena | 5b | 15m | |||
11 | ★★ Libeccio | 6b | 30m, 2 | |||
12 | ★★ Vento in poppa | 6a+ | 30m | |||
13 | ★ Alta marea | 6a | 30m | |||
14 | ★★ Cotequinho | 5c | 30m | |||
15 | ★ Silja | 6a | 30m | |||
16 | No name | 6a | 30m | |||
17 | ★★★ Sixteen | 6a | 30m | |||
18 | ★★ Kho Phi Phi | 6a+ | 30m | |||
19 | L'ecoume des flots | 6a+ | 10m | |||
20 | ★★ Wolof | 6a | 30m | |||
21 | ★ E' pericoloso sporogersi | 6b+ | 30m |
1.5. Le Petit Bateau 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Tous Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 40.256779, 9.624185
description
(Vie dei bimbi)
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Pikachu | 4b | 17m | |||
2 | ★★ La Pimpa | 4c | 15m | |||
3 | ★★★ Charizard | 4c | 15m | |||
4 | ★★ Raichu | 4a | 15m | |||
5 | ★★ Nesquik | 5b | 25m |
1.6. Fuili-Cannonau 15 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Tous Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 40.256829, 9.621762
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | 01 | 5a | 25m | |||
2 | Solo con i tuoi pedali | 6b | 20m | |||
3 | Cugina da secondo | 6a+ | 25m | |||
4 | lo e Catherine | 5c | 25m | |||
5 | My sweet Anita | 5b | 15m | |||
6 | Leoni | 6a | 50m, 3 | |||
7 | Tri Fieu Tri Matt | 6b+ | 70m, 3 | |||
8 | Vento in poppa | 6a | 70m, 3 | |||
9 | La pinna dello Squalo | 6c | 70m, 3 | |||
10 | sos Sardinas | 6b | 75m, 3 | |||
11 | Abra cadabra | 6a | 70m, 2 | |||
12 | Taliagole | 6a | 25m | |||
13 | Occhi di lince | 6b+ | 50m, 2 | |||
14 | Abigeo | 6b | 50m, 2 | |||
15 | 15 |
1.7. Strapiombi 15 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Tous Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 40.256756, 9.623332
description
The Hardest section in Cala Fuili with a tonne of hard climbing to be had on some awesome rock.
approche
At the base fo the stairsway from Cala Fuili carpark turn right and follow trail.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Emicrania | 7b+ | 15m | |||
2 | ★★ Black&Blue | 8a+ | 15m | |||
3 | King size | 15m | ||||
4 | ★★★ Totem | 8a | 20m | |||
5 | ★★ Anime Salve | 8b+ | 15m | |||
6 | ★★ Samba | 15m | ||||
7 | ★ Scandalus | 7b+ | 10m | |||
8 | Mare mosso | 8a+ | 15m | |||
9 | ★★★ Panni da Lavare | 7c | 15m | |||
10 | ★★ Plancton | 7c | 15m | |||
11 | ★★ Kaum Zeit zum Traumen | 8b | 20m | |||
12 | ★★ Fumo negli Occhiali | 7c+ | 15m | |||
13 | ★★ 163 Scalini | 8a | 10m | |||
14 | ★★ Dal Blu | 7b | 15m | |||
15 | ★★ E' Sempre Sera | 15m |
1.8. Raoni 14 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Tous Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 40.256202, 9.621957
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Tapiri | 7a+ | 20m | |||||
2 | ★★ X.S. | 8a | 15m | |||||
3 | ★★★ Scaldaia | 7b | 20m | |||||
4 | ★★ Visual Game | 8a+ | 20m | |||||
5 |
★★★ Raoni
One of the first routes bolted in the area and still a classic. | 8a | 20m | |||||
6 | ★★★ Do It Now | 8a+ | 20m | |||||
7 | ★★ No Global | 8b+ | 20m | |||||
8 | ★★ Amanita Giò | 7c+ | 20m | |||||
9 | ★★ Ice and Rest | 7c+ | 20m | |||||
10 | ★ Prudentia | 6b | 20m | |||||
11 | ★★ Mammolo | 7b | 15m | |||||
12 | ★★ Brontolo | 6c+ | 15m | |||||
13 | ★★ Eolo | 7c+ | 15m | |||||
14 | ★★ Pisolo | 15m | ||||||
|
1.9. Placca di fronte allo sperone 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Tous Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 40.256727, 9.621725
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Senza nome
Only top rope | 25m | ||||
2 | Solo con i tuoi pedali | 6b | 20m | |||
3 | Cugina da secondo | 6a+ | 25m | |||
4 | Lo e Catherine | 5c | 25m | |||
5 | Senza nome | 5b | 15m |
1.10. Codula Fuili 115 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Tous Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 40.257600, 9.618030
1.10.1. Tritoni 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.256920, 9.620407
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Vip | 7a+ | 25m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 | ★★ Condom stress | 6c+ | 25m | |||||
3 | ★★ Grottomania | 6c | 20m | |||||
4 |
★★ Condom stress reduced / Grottomania var.
Start like "Condom stress" and finish in the anchor of "Grottomania" | 6b+ | 20m | |||||
5 | Passami la 13 | 8a | 20m | |||||
6 | ★★ Tritoni | 7c | 25m | |||||
7 | ★★ Chiedilo a spatuzza | 7a | 25m |
1.10.2. Muro dell'umiltà & Imposta 18 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.257533, 9.619924
description
Topo available at: https://climbingitaly.com/sardegna/fuili-muro-umilta/
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ SN | 5b | 50m, 2 | |||||
2 | Cocci a mezzanotte | 8a | 20m | |||||
3 | ★★★ L'imposta | 7b+ | 35m | |||||
4 | Le pedagogistes | 8a | 30m | |||||
5 | Disamistade | 6c+ | 25m | |||||
6 | SN - 2 | 7b | 30m | |||||
7 | Belote | 6a | 25m | |||||
8 | ★★ Poker | 6a | 25m | |||||
9 | ★★ Canasta | 6a+ | 20m | |||||
10 |
Bridge
Grade unclear, 6a and 6b both marked at the start. | 6a - b | 18m | |||||
11 | ★ Briscola | 6a | 15m | |||||
12 | ★★ SN - 3 | 6b | 15m | |||||
13 | Ghiaione | 7c | 25m | |||||
14 | SN - 4 | 7c+ | 10m | |||||
15 | Salto di qualità | 8a | 9m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
16 | SN - 5 | 7a+ | 9m | |||||
17 | ★★ SN - 6 | 6b+ | 9m | |||||
18 | SN - 7 | 6a+ | 7m |
1.10.3. Pederiva 19 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.258344, 9.616935
résumé
The Cown of Cala Fulli, some of the best rock climbing and routes Sardinia has to offer.
approche
Follow the stairs down from Cala Fulli entrance and follow the stone trail away from the beach keep walking for 5 mins until you can see Pederiva cliff on youyr right.Follow the trail up until you reach the cliff.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Malu | 6b | 27m | |||||
2 | ★★ Pippi Langstrumpf | 6b | 25m | |||||
3 | ★★★ Doktor Hirn | 6c | 25m, 6 | |||||
4 | ★★★ Pinocchio | 6c+ | 25m, 9 | |||||
5 |
★★ Il Volo di Icaro
A pumpy little number with nothing too hard. Considers the best of the grade on the wall. FA: E.Lecis, 1992 | 6c+ | 20m | |||||
6 | ★★★ Cenerentola | 7c | 25m | |||||
7 |
★★ Il Cuore Freddo
A very hard boulder problem, originally graded 8B. | 8a+ | 25m | |||||
8 | ★★ Hansel und Gretel | 7c | 25m | |||||
9 |
★★★ Cappuccetto Rosso
Sustained and fun tufa climbing on large holds, very popular and one of the sectors best climbs. FA: B.Pederiva, 1989 | 7a | 25m | |||||
10 | ★★ Senza Nome | 7c | 25m | |||||
11 |
★★★ L'Anno Che Verrà
Resistance climbing on immaculate Orange limestone, easy start hard section to and pumpy to the anchors.Considered one of Gonone's best route. FA: B.pederiva, 1989 | 7c+ | 25m | |||||
12 |
★★★ L'anno Nuovo
Harder variant to the original route. Sustained Side-pulling to crux and finish. FA: U.Bertoni, 2007 | 8a | 25m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
13 | ★★★ La Lampada di Aladino | 7c+ | 25m | |||||
14 | ★★★ Il Gatto con gli Stivali | 7b+ | 25m | |||||
15 | ★★★ Un Mago corre contro il Tempo | 7a+ | 20m | |||||
16 | ★★ Power Trio | 7a | 25m | |||||
17 | ★★ Ciao Mio bell'Alpin | 6c+ | 25m | |||||
18 | ★★★ Viva le Pastiglie | 6c+ | 20m | |||||
19 | Sandinista | 6c | 30m |
1.10.4. Thailandia & Tribuna 42 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.257880, 9.616054
1.10.5. Zedda Piras 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 40.258004, 9.615547
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Nemmos | 6a+ | 15m | |||||
2 | ★★ Mister No | 7a | 15m | |||||
3 | Conigli sgozzati | 7b+ | 15m | |||||
4 | ★ Chico | 7a | 15m | |||||
5 | ★★ Zagor | 6b+ | 15m | |||||
6 | Karel | 15m | ||||||
7 | Distorsione | 15m | ||||||
8 | ★★★ Zorro | 7c | 20m | |||||
9 | ★★ Zedda Piras | 7c+ | 20m | |||||
10 | Condropatia | 7b+ | 15m | |||||
11 | Ravananti | 7a+ | 15m |
1.10.6. Teatro 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ L'era glaciale | 7a | 12m | |||
2 | Siberia | 7c | 15m | |||
3 | Scala di ferro | 8b | 20m | |||
4 | Iceberg | 15m | ||||
5 | Il disgelo | 15m |
1.10.7. La Vigianite 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ NonnoX | 6b | 25m | |||
2 | Tuzzingher | 6c+ | 20m | |||
3 | Lo sborone | 7a+ | 25m | |||
4 | Paccoman | 7c | 25m | |||
5 | ★★ 18 Aprile | 7a+ | 25m | |||
6 | ★★★ La Vigianite | 8a | 25m |
1.10.8. Grotta dei Bimbi 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ La Rana dalla Bocca Larga | 6b+ | 25m | |||
2 | ★★★ Protestante | 8a | 25m | |||
3 | Tortorella | 25m | ||||
4 | ★★★ Sapientino | 8c | 25m | |||
5 | ★★★ Scaramacai | 8a+ | 25m | |||
6 | L'asinello di mattarello | 8b+ | 25m | |||
7 | alice dorme e ride | 8a | 25m |
1.11. Paretine del Cannonau 13 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Escalade sportive et Style inconnu
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Mutando | 5b | 10m | |||
2 | ★ Scorreggiando | 5a | 10m | |||
3 | ★★ Solo con i tuoi Pedali | 6b | 25m | |||
4 | ★★ Cugina da Secondo | 6a+ | 25m | |||
5 | ★★ Io e Catherine | 5c | 25m | |||
6 | Senza nome | 5b | ||||
7 | ★★★ In Preda ai Fumi del Cannonau | 7b+ | 20m | |||
8 | Paradise City | ? | 15m | |||
9 | ★★★ Abracadabra | 6a | 80m, 2 | |||
10 | ★★ Vento in Poppa | 5c | 80m, 4 | |||
11 | ★★ Abigeo | 6a+ | 30m | |||
12 | ★★ Occhi di lince | 6a+ | 35m | |||
13 | ★★ Tagliagole | 6a+ |
1.12. Senza Nome 1 route in Sector
- Summary:
-
Tous Escalade sportive
Lat / Long: 40.258047, 9.619162
description
A wall with a single 50m 2-pitch route
informations pour la descente
Abseil back down
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Senza Nome
Two pitches, roughly 2x25m. Bolt distance is sometimes a bit larger than for other routes at the beach. The belay stations consist of two bolts connected with an old piece of rope. A maillon is connected to one of the bolts. | 5b | 50m, 2 |