Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.
Table of contents
- 1.
Orjen
22 in Region
- 1.1. Reovačka greda 6 routes in Crag
- 1.2. Subra 10 routes in Crag
- 1.3. Mrceve grede 5 routes in Crag
- 1.4. Zubacki kabao 1 routes in Crag
1. Orjen
- Summary:
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Tous Escalade traditionnelle
Lat / Long: 42.537995, 18.583255
description
Mt Orjen massif is a part of the mountain range of the coastal mountains of Montenegro, and certainly its most interesting section as well. It occupies the south-western part of Montenegro. In terms of the area, it is the largest mountain massif on the Adriatic coast. It is situated at the junction of three boarders - of Montenegro, Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina. The main section of the massif comprises the groups of peaks situated in its central part which belongs to Montenegro. Mt Orjen is a constituent part of the system of the Dinarides, although it hasn't got the obvious spreading direction typical of the Dinarides. The highest peak of Mt Orjen, Zubački kabao, at the same time the highest peak of the coastal Dinarides, is 1894 metres high. More information on Mt Orjen, places to sleep, marked trails and speleo-objects you can find at www.subra.users.cg.yu Two perhaps the best rocks in Montenegro - Subra and Reovačka greda are situated on this mountain.
1.1. Reovačka greda
- Summary:
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Lat / Long: 42.577833, 18.582712
description
The ridge of Reovačka greda with its highest peak Pazua, along with the Subra Amphitheatre is considered to be the most striking part of the massif, and apart from that the wildest one as well. On Reovačka greda the south face, especially the section below Pazua, its main peak, is the one which is interesting in terms of trad climbing. The rock is of an excellent quality, white limestone with the height ranging from 200 to 350 metres. There is only one ascended route so far- 350 m, V-/IV/III. It was climbed by Bojan and Vanja from the OCP in May 2009.
How to get there, approach and descent.
Reovačka greda as one of the rather remote areas of Mt Orjen massif, inaccessible and far away from the usual mountain trails, is a rarely visited mountain. The best and easiest approach to this crag is from the direction of Crkvice, and it takes a 90 minute hike to get from there to the base of the rock following the markations. Crkvice is about 120kms far from Podgorica and it can be reached along the travel route Podgorica - Nikšic - Vilusi - Grahovo - Dragalj - Crkvice or from Risan ( Boka Kotorska ) towards Grahovo; from that road one should turn to Crkvice. By the remains of the old Austrian bakery in Crkvice one should turn right onto the macadam road, then along it some 5 to 6 kilometres to the clearly marked fork for Reovački dolovi. From Dolovi a marked trail leads to the exit to the ridge. The best descent after climbing is along this trail.
Important: There is only one spring in the whole area - Studenac and it is situated at the foot of the southern couloir. The trail leading from the dales to the ridge runs past it. To reach it you'll need a 40 minute hike over a difficult terrain. Mountaineers from Herceg Novi, who know this mountain much better than us, claim that the spring has never dried up although it doesn't provide plenty of water.
Where to sleep
Bring your tents along. You can sleep in Reovački dolovi where there is no water, but there is comfort, or below the southern couloir, where there is a little or none of the space for tents, but there is water...and vipers! The choice is yours.
Climbing season
The rocks of Reovacka greda are oriented southwards, so the best time for climbing is in spring(the end of April, May) and in autumn(September, October)
1.2. Subra
- Summary:
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10 routes in Crag
Lat / Long: 42.524091, 18.539518
description
Mt Subra is the most imposing crag of the Mt Orjen massif, and it can be said, of the whole massif of the Dinarides along the Adriatic coast. It rises in the shape of a giant amphitheatre in which the layers of limestone are stacked one atop another. Along the vertical the layers are intersected with a series of gullies and chimneys. The crag is up to 300m high. The lines in Mt Subra were climbed only as late as in 2005 by the Slovenian alpinists headed by Mr Stanko Mihev, and this way we want to thank him very much for providing us with the information on routes.
How to Get There:
Subra Amphitheatre can be reached most easily along the marked mountain trail from Vrbanj, which can be approached along the travel route from Herceg Novi(Meljine ) through Kruševice - about 15 kms. From Vrbanj the trail follows the macadam road (suitable for terrain vehicles) over Rujište and Meki do to Žukovica. From Žukovica to the base of the rock - about 40-minute hike .
Where to Sleep:
The best place for making camp is in Žukovica, both because of the water found nearby and the terrain configuration. Due to a stony terrain there are no conditions for pitching the tents at the base of the rock.
Climbing Season:
Unlike the rocks of Reovačka Greda the largest crags in the Subra Amphitheatre have a north-western orientation which enables climbing during the summer months, too.
1.3. Mrceve grede
- Summary:
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Lat / Long: 42.487793, 18.586397
1.4. Zubacki kabao
- Summary:
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1 route in Crag
Lat / Long: 42.569061, 18.544020