Ascensions dans Map 4 Willy Nilly & Sun Wall

Ambitiously thought I might flash this one, but ultimately needed a few attempts to sort out beta that worked for me at the crux. Nevertheless, I appreciate the spray down Alexei Drummond! Definitely a classic, but due more to history and uniqueness than to absolute quality, as it’s short and crumbly in places. Still, among my proudest sends in the Basin to date.

Got greedy and tried for another bite of the cherry, mainly to keep David off it long enough to rest his fingers I easily climbed through both cruxes to the jug cleanly and feeling very fresh. I was sure I was about to repeat it. Unfortunately it was only then that I noticed the wind had blown the sling behind the edge of the block above and out of reach. Instead of just continuing on to the bolt itself I panicked, cursed a few times and called take. Oh well. I need to get more bold. At least I made David rest

Red point! What a feeling. Climbed the two technical lower half very smoothly and then had to hold it together at the top. Had to warm my fingers on my neck for the top. Proud that I kept things together. The last move to the lip I couldn’t feel my fingers. So happy this went down

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C0ybvMCMcrg/

First go of the session. High point. Climbed through both cruxes and numbed out on the jugs! 😬 Didn’t think that was possible. But major breakthrough.

Fourth attempt of the session. Skin starting to hurt and fingers a bit weaker. Was on 8th hold and thought left hand was going to pop. Tried to adjust which turns out to be a bad idea. Anyway every tie-in this session I climbed the bottom boulder and transition cleanly which I had never done before today so overall a great session.

Third go of session. Got to 9th hold feeling really strong and going to the 10th hold which is the last cruxy move. during this move my left foot hold exploded off the wall 🙀! High point at least

Pulled back on to 9th hold and did the move with lower foot, clean to the top including clipping anchor and mantle. So a one hang, high point and low point. The move to 10th hold is fine with a slightly lower foot hold at least

Second go of day. Got through the first boulder and transition again but not feeling as strong. Got 8th hold but not well and came off. Still second highest point.

First go of session. High point. Got to 8th hold and going for 9th hold feeling really good but then just hesitated and got out of flow and didn’t use enough contact strength.

Third attempt on lead. First hang dog on lead. Clipped the draws and the anchor and did the mantle. Unfortunately not cleanly. Now I will wait for a week for my skin to be fully healed But at least made some progress.

Second attempt on lead. Deadpoint to pocket is much more static, then bump to spike. One extra move in first boulder problem. Also worked out some new beta for the transition to second boulder problem. Starting to envy the dyno

First attempt on lead. Amazing how quickly this thing takes my skin. Realised the deadpoint to the spike is not the way. Too low percentage.

Third tie-in of the day. Pulled past first boulder problem to focus on second. Did second boulder cleanly again even with sore skin. Practiced the top again. I am now read to try to lead it next session with better skin

Second tie-in of the day. Failed repeatedly on the first deadpoint. Fingers already a bit trashed and hard to make myself hold on with the skin pain.

First tie-in of the day. Climbed through the first boulder. But then rested on the rope because my fingers were not warmed up Then climbed through the second boulder clean for the first time. Went to top to practice moves and clipping positions.

Shouldn't have bothered with a third tie in. My skin was too painful and my fingers too tired to give it a good go. I just pulled up and refined the top a bit more.

Second tie in of the day. Surprised myself by working out how to go to the pocket next to the first bolt with the left hand. After that I managed to unlock the right sequence for the second boulder problem. Very intensive on the foot work. But I did all the moves on this tie-in so I guess I just have to link it all together (and get on lead?)

Climbed through the first boulder problem. Looked at the two options for the second boulder problem. Got close to the dyno, but it is very powerful and I feel like it would be low percentage even if I landed it once. Originally thought the right sequence would involve a heinous match, but worked out how to avoid that. Now it just involves a series of heinous bumps.

After a false start I climbed the bottom crux to the first bolt cleanly. The second crux after the first bolt seems a bit harder. Top is easier after second crux. Apparently there is no such thing as "working" on top rope

Fun, but very soft.

got it but not sure if it was static enough

So satisfying!!!