Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Popularité | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
17/18 | |||||
Tongariro National Park Mt Ruapehu Mead's Wall | |||||
17/18 | ★ A Mossy Mistake
A nice route on the far right end of the crag, climb the face through some good moves to a clip anchor | 20m, 10 | |||
17/18 | ★★ I Can't Believe It's Not Moss
Nice climbing to a DBB in the middle of the route, continue up past this one and climb some corners with nice moves. | 20m, 2, 10 | |||
Te Moana-a-Toi / The Bay of Plenty Bowentown Heads Bowentown Wall | |||||
17/18 | Leto II Atreides
Climb found by walking to the West side of the beach (turn right at the bottom of the stairs). Climb is on the left side of the tiny crack/cave. If it has been raining in the last few days, then there is a good chance that the climb will be covered in water. Climb over the right side of the bulge before the anchor. Shares anchor with God Emperor. | 3 | |||
Waikato Wharepapa South Shawthing Rocks Cabbage Tree Cliff | |||||
17/18 | Almost Fifty
An alternative 2nd pitch. From the ledge of "on holiday" clip the first bolt then follow the right hand line of bolts to the top. Uses the same anchor bolts as Om holiday. FA: Stephen Shaw, 2018 | 10m | |||
Waikato Lake Taupō Kawakawa Bay Jungle Wall | |||||
17/18 | ★ Me Gustas Tu (I Like You)
The obvious face crack. Less experienced trad climbers should consider a top rope lap (some of the placements can be tricky). Gear Beta: Large cams for the start. Blue and green Alien cams for the mailbox slot to protect the exit moves, otherwise a medium nut can be creatively used. FA: Thomas Hermann, Mars 2022 | 8m | |||
17/18 | ★★ Welcome to the Jungle
Fun slab arete climb. Similar to Rohan's Arete, but easier. Starts right of the arete, by the tree. Équip.: Marika Obst, Mars 2022 FA: Ari, 2 Avr 2022 | 20m, 10 | |||
Waikato Coromandel Peninsula Maratoto No Fly Zone | |||||
17/18 | Baby Yoda
Climb to the left of falcor up the slab and into the tallest part of the cave. still needs more cleaning and more bolts Équip.: Chris Hailey, 1 Sept 2022 | 30m, 4 | |||
V0+ | |||||
Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland North Head | |||||
V0+ | Trees make good spotters
Crimps on crimps. Be thankful for the lovely tree to break your fall (and back). Top out through the gap in the trees! FA: Felix Blanchard, 6 Déc | 4m | |||
V0+ | C-HOT-REP
Start left hand in pocket, right hand in waist high mono. Easy climbing to top. FA: Felix Blanchard, 20 Nov. 2023 | 3m | |||
Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Asquith Ave Kings Side Main wall | |||||
V0+ | Pipeline
Right hand pocket left hand arete. Straight up. Please avoid damaging the water pipe. Dirty top, needs cleaning and gardening. | 3m | |||
V0+ | Angry Red Dwarf
Sit start, stay inside the cracks, Arete is in, low ledge for feet on left is out. Reach the top ledge, no mantle until cleaned up, loose rock in the in-cut cave be careful. FA: Maika Hemera | 2m | |||
Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Asquith Ave Kings Side The garage | |||||
V0+ | Lockdown
Sit start match on the sloper, feet start on same face. One move to the top, mantle out without using other sections. FA: Maika Hemera | 1m | |||
Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Waipu Cove The Point | |||||
V0+ | Right Arête
On the microwave looking boulder 100m south of The Point. Sit start. Use the juggy arête out left and the crack out right to work your way up. Finish up and left. FA: Richard Flinn, Août 2018 | 3m | |||
17 AID:A2 | |||||
Tongariro National Park Mangatepopo Valley Hotu Cliffs East Wing | |||||
17 AID:A2 | Swerv
| 15m | |||
17 M3 | |||||
Tongariro National Park Mt Ruapehu Tukino Tascmaster Wall | |||||
17 M3 | The Comeback Kid | 20m | |||
17 | |||||
Te Whanga-nui-a-Tara / Wellington Dry Creek | |||||
17 | ★ Unknown
Climb up the main face, the further right you go, the harder it gets. Access the top rope anchor by scrambling up the hill to the right of the wall, there are two shiny new bolts at the top, but there is a lot of gorse! | ||||
Te Whanga-nui-a-Tara / Wellington Titahi Bay Lava Torri Wall | |||||
17 | ★★ Dysentry Groove
Double bolt belay. FA: Graeme Dingle, 1970 | 25m | |||
17 | Transition
Double bolt belay. | 19m | |||
Te Whanga-nui-a-Tara / Wellington Titahi Bay The Pinnacle North East Face | |||||
17 | Coops and Robbers
FFA: Robin Cooper | 16m | |||
Te Whanga-nui-a-Tara / Wellington Titahi Bay The Slab | |||||
17 | ★★ Left Wall
FA: Graeme Dingle, 1970 | 6m | |||
Te Whanga-nui-a-Tara / Wellington Titahi Bay The Nose | |||||
17 | Boxthorn Crack
| 12m | |||
Te Whanga-nui-a-Tara / Wellington Titahi Bay The Cave | |||||
17 | ★★ Hobbit’s Enigma
Strenuous but well protected climbing: pull over the first overhang and into a crack, which continues to the top and a double bolt belay. | 17m | |||
17 | Gollum Crack
The corner on the right side of the Gallery is strenuous and technical, but good protection can be arranged in the crack. At the remains of an old peg, move into the right-hand groove with difficulty and continue up and right to the double bolt belay. | 17m | |||
17 | Gandalf’s Corner
The corner on the left side of the Gallery is a good looking line. Climb a crack to the ledge and the poorly protected corner above. Double bolt belay. | 12m | |||
Te Whanga-nui-a-Tara / Wellington Pukerua Bay Higher Learning Area | |||||
17 | ★ Get a Grip
Good edges straight up to the small ledge. Step up to crucial undercling then move on to the blunt arête and right to a double ring bolt anchor. FA: Martin Broederlow & Sharon Nicholas | 9m, 4 | |||
Te Whanga-nui-a-Tara / Wellington Pukerua Bay The Shazzed Arete | |||||
17 | ★ Too Much Of A Good Thing
Can you have it? Apparently so. Scramble up to below the overhang, then onto the face and move left through the overhang and up onto the face. Good jugs moving through the overhang but watch your rope doesn't the catch on the overhang. The 5th bolt is out of view from the ground. Shares last bolt and anchor with "My Ideal..." | 15m, 6 | |||
Te Whanga-nui-a-Tara / Wellington Pukerua Bay Wairaka Rock | |||||
17 | ★★ Dolphinius Alternative
Climb the crack system on natural gear to join Dolphinius at its third bolt. A more consistent pitch for the grade than its neighbour. FA: Martin Wilson, 2004 | 35m, 3 | |||
Te Whanga-nui-a-Tara / Wellington Mount Kaukau Punk Rock | |||||
17 | ★ Anarchy
start just behind the cabbage tree FA: Charlie Creese | 8m | |||
17 | Complacent
climb the blunt arete, clipping the bolt on piles. FA: Charlie Creese | 10m, 1 | |||
17 | ★ Piles
starts under the roof, then go though the overlap. FA: Charlie Creese | 10m, 1 | |||
17 | Going to fall
Go up the slab then commit to the overlap, which is protected by a bolt. FA: Charlie Creese | 10m, 1 | |||
17 | ★ Farce
FA: Charlie Creese | 10m | |||
17 | ★ Obscene
Climb diagonally leftwards below the arete formed by the edge of the pinnacle. FA: Charlie Creese | 10m | |||
Manawatū-Whanganui The Big O West Side | |||||
17 | Legs So Wide, Legs So Long | ||||
Taranaki Mount Taranaki Organ Pipes Valley Warwicks Castle | |||||
17 | The Way of The Orange
| 18m | |||
17 | Possum Claws
| 19m | |||
Taranaki Mount Taranaki Organ Pipes Valley Lion Rocks | |||||
17 | More to Come
| 8m | |||
17 | ★ Reaching for the Lion's Heart
| 18m | |||
Taranaki Mount Taranaki Organ Pipes Valley Crocodile Tier | |||||
17 | Hummingbird
| 20m | |||
17 | Polinated Pencil
| 12m | |||
Taranaki Mount Taranaki Organ Pipes Valley The Eiger Wall | |||||
17 | ★★ Pills & Thrills
| 40m | |||
Taranaki Mount Taranaki Organ Pipes Valley Snotgobbler Wall | |||||
17 | ★★ Tales of Mystery and Imagination
| 20m | |||
Taranaki Mount Taranaki Organ Pipes Valley Organ Pipes | |||||
17 | The Arete
| 19m | |||
Tongariro National Park Mt Ruapehu Tukino Mangatoetoenui Gorge White Dragon Wall | |||||
17 | ★★ White Gentian
Climbs the most obvious crack line up to the chossy ledge. Starts to the left of the thin crack at grade 17, or alternatively start direct up the thin crack placing pro before climbing (tricky) at about grade 20. Double rack with small cams and hexes useful, take 2x #4 cam for the belay at fist crack just below ledge or build an anchor higher. Great climbing! FA: David Garrity & Richard Knott, 6 Mars 2016 | 25m | |||
Tongariro National Park Mt Ruapehu Tukino Mangatoetoenui Gorge Bowie Rickman Slabs | |||||
17 | ★★★ Potions Master
The line of bolts up the whitish streaked slab. Continue on gear at left edge of blocky overhangs. Bollard/gear anchor and walk off, or leave the anchor in place, a 60m rope will get you down. FA: Francis Garrity & David Garrity | 35m, 6 | |||
17 | ★★ Heroes
An initial bolt leads up to a hole, then left of plate feature to a big spike on ledge. Run it out up the white slab until bottom of the overlap, then up for more gear and exit left. FA: David Garrity & Bryce Martin, 22 Jan 2016 | 35m, 1 | |||
Tongariro National Park Mt Ruapehu Tukino Tascmaster Wall | |||||
17 | ★ Hookless
Same start as "Scary or something" I backed off the direct start because of loose blocks. Climb to the right side of the prominent nose, stand on it and go straight up though the over lap, on good gear and holds. Follow a widening crack (#4 cam is handy or was it a #3?). Some tricky semiring foot work leads to easier ground. FA: Stephen Shaw, 3 Jan 2022 | 25m | |||
17 | ★ Fast
Follow groove. Label at base. FFA: David Garrity, Jan 2015 | 25m | |||
Tongariro National Park Mt Ruapehu Tukino Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress | |||||
17 | ★ Iodine
The obvious offwidth to the right of “Don't Tell Mother”. Climb up and finish left beside the big chockstone. No offwidth grovelling required. FFA: David Garrity & Bryce Martin, 5 Fév 2017 | 15m | |||
17 | ★★★ It’s All Right Ma (I’m Only Bolting)
Climb the groove and face just right of “You Want it Darker”. FFA: Bryce Martin & David Garrity, 5 Fév 2017 | 20m, 7 | |||
17 | ★ True Love Leaves No Traces
Climb up the corners to a prominent orange headwall with a left leaning crack. Finish up the arete on the left of the headwall. FFA: David Garrity & Bryce Martin, 6 Fév 2017 | 18m | |||
Tongariro National Park Mt Ruapehu Tukino Child’s Play | |||||
17 | ★★ Bär Essenziell
Climb the roof close to the ground, mantle up into the finger crack top out and walk off. Good protection .3 bd cam and smaller FA: Max Warren & Dion Clapperton, 29 Jan 2022 | 9m | |||
17 | Eureka
Start in the overhang just left of Betelgeuse, find the clipping jug and head out left and up the slabby arete. FA: John Graham | 12m, 4 | |||
17 | ★ Dustbowl
Past 1 bolt up into the bowl, then bridge your way up. Either finish right on the anchor of Eureka or head straight up to the bollard. FA: Wim Coosemans | 1 | |||
17 | Little Dora
Little trad route to practice placing gear. Shared double bolt anchor on the top of the platform. FA: Wim Coosemans | 8m | |||
Tongariro National Park Mt Ruapehu Mead's Wall | |||||
17 | ★ Always howl'n
A couple steep moves past the 3rd bolt leads to easy climbing on good holds. Shares the last bolt and belay of Hard knock life. | ||||
17 | ★ Eyeball Moss
a varied route, slightly steep at the start. belay is DBB | 20m, 8 | |||
Tongariro National Park Mt Ruapehu Whakapapa Gorge Halfmoon Crag | |||||
17 | ★★ Death Star
“That’s no moon” (Kenobi, O.W.). But it is a dyno past the first bolt, and you’ll need to overcome the tractor beam of earth to do it. Wild. Still not over after that, keep it together as you move delicately up to clip the second and third bolts. 3 bolts, DRB anchor (shares a bolt with Luna anchor). FA: Sash Nukada, Jan 2022 | 3 | |||
17 | ★ Luna
Moon in Latin. Start by the left facing corner, blast straight up, keep your foo foo valve on while you clip the fourth bolt, then finish in the groove. 4 bolts, DRB anchor. FA: Sash Nukada, Nov. 2021 | 4 | |||
17 | ★ Moonraker
Have you seen the movie? Classic James Bond. And just like Bond, this climb is classy with an edge. Start by stepping right onto the slopey ledge, arrange your quickdraws, then launch up the delicate face. Finish up the tricky flaring thin double cracks and onwards to the summit and glory. 6 bolts, DRB (double ring bolt) anchor. FA: Sash Nukada, Nov. 2021 | 6 | |||
17 | ★ Spaceballs
Named after an 80s space film. The thoughtful crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Its a little run out after that (but on easy ground) and veer slightly right to join the last 2 bolts of Moonraker. Finish on Moonraker anchor. FA: Sash Nukada, Jan 2022 | 5 | |||
Tongariro National Park Mt Ruapehu Whakapapa Gorge | |||||
17 | ★★★ Scoopage
1
17
2
17
P1: (17) Sneak through the step in the overhangs trending left (passed a thread) and once on the face head up and rightish following the line of weakness. Belay in the middle of the shield like wall. P2: (17) Heads up through the obvious line of weakness finishing with jams as a great finale. Can be combined into one pitch with rope drag management. FA: Paul Rogers | 45m, 2 | |||
17 | Fittest of the Fittest
Same start as for Under Heavy Manners, exiting the cave on the right side following the vague crack system upwards, which then cuts left to Under Heavy Manners anchor. | 40m | |||
17 | ★★ Under Heavy Manners
1
15
15m
2
17
25m
P1: (15) Start below the big round cave in the middle of the wall and climb straight up to it. DBB. (6 bolts) P2: (17) Climb out right of the cave and continue upwards, generally right of the vague crack system. DBB. (8 bolts) FA: Paul Rogers | 40m, 2, 14 | |||
17 | King In The Arena
Climbs under Under Heavy Manners to the cave, the exits left finishing where Crazy Baldheads finishes. FA: Paul Rogers | 40m | |||
17 | Crazy Baldheads
Climbs between the two obvious recesses in the wall, going past two more smaller recesses to the top. | 40m | |||
Tongariro National Park Mangatepopo Valley Hotu Cliffs East Wing | |||||
17 | Te Kooti
| 15m | |||
17 | Swing
| 15m | |||
Tongariro National Park Mangatepopo Valley Bomb Bay Cliff Lower Routes | |||||
17 | ★ American Pie
| 30m | |||
Tongariro National Park Mangatepopo Valley Tuwharetoa Upper Tier | |||||
17 | Hand Traverse
| 25m | |||
17 | Unfinished Groove
| 20m | |||
Tongariro National Park Mangatepopo Valley Tuwharetoa Lower Tier | |||||
17 | ★ Cirrus Minor
| 50m | |||
17 | ★ Jemmett's Jam Creek
FA: Pete Jemmett, 1973 | 40m | |||
17 | Gossamer Groove
| 40m | |||
17 | ★ White Sabbath
Completed in a snow storm to avoid loosing yet another route to marauding invaders. FA: Ray Button & Stu Allan | 30m | |||
17 | Baby Elephant
| 40m | |||
Te Moana-a-Toi / The Bay of Plenty Bowentown Heads Bowentown Wall | |||||
17 | ★ Leto I Atreides
Climb found by turning right after descending the stairs, beginning is in the little enclave after you hit the sand. | 4 | |||
Te Moana-a-Toi / The Bay of Plenty Bowentown Heads Falcon Wall | |||||
17 | Unknown Route 4
| 18m, 6 | |||
17 | Sand Face
A tricky start to establish yourself on the face. Bit airy between 4th and 5th bolt but climbing is easy. DRB Belay. FA: 2014 | 16m, 6 | |||
Te Moana-a-Toi / The Bay of Plenty Fermé Mount Maunganui Flesh Buttress | |||||
17 | ★ Too Orangey For Crows
Right of Lord of Bones, climb rocky steps to a ledge. Up slabby rock then the steeper black streak. Finish up more blocky rock to Kia Ora the DRB. The Name doffs caps to Game of Thrones and a delicious fruit drink with a name recognizable to kiwis...or not. FA: Andrew Wilkinson & Dave Offner, 24 Juil 2016 | 25m, 8 | |||
17 | ★★ Bacon Butties
The route starts at the top of the grassy ramp below TVP. Move up on mainly positive holds to the top bolt of TVP, stay left and up to the shared anchor. FA: Andrew Wilkinson, Christian Richardson & Dave Offner, 14 Juin 2015 | 12m, 5 | |||
Te Moana-a-Toi / The Bay of Plenty Fermé Mount Maunganui Short Routes | |||||
17 | ★ Simone
The bolted featured arete about 30m along the path. Easy but run out to the first bolt, finishing on the left side to double bolt belay FA: Phil Higgins | 12m, 5 | |||
Te Moana-a-Toi / The Bay of Plenty Fermé Mount Maunganui Mike Memorial Wall | |||||
17 | Skinny and Fatty
| ||||
17 | ★ Surfs Up
Climb up the line of bolts starting just left of the crack, then moving left through the overhang on good holds to join Tsunami, and so the top. | 22m | |||
17 | ★★ Tsunami
Climb the line of 7 bolts through the overhang on good holds, move rightwards then back leftwards to the crack in the upper overhang, then up the wall to the DRB belay. A crag classic. | 22m | |||
17 | Midori Illusion
The left side of the wall on great rock. Good climbing but only two bolts and quite bold. DRB belay | 10m, 4 | |||
Te Moana-a-Toi / The Bay of Plenty Fermé Mount Maunganui Warratah Wall | |||||
17 | ★ Dreamweaver
FA: Phil Higgins | 11m | |||
Te Moana-a-Toi / The Bay of Plenty Fermé Mount Maunganui Cables Wall | |||||
17 | ★★ EEC
Climb the face and arete past the horizontal break. The crux is in the final moves, an exciting finish to an excellent route. FA: Phil Higgins & Melanie Blomfield | 10m, 5 | |||
17 | ★★ Cables I
FA: Phil Higgins & Chris Devenoges | 12m, 5 | |||
Te Moana-a-Toi / The Bay of Plenty Moturiki Island Surfside Wall | |||||
17 | ★ Between a Rock and a Wet Place
Scramble up to a double bolt belay on a ledge. Follow the bolts up to another double bolt belay with only hangers. There is a tree further back to rappel from. FA: Phil Higgins & John Murray, 1983 | 20m, 5 | |||
Te Moana-a-Toi / The Bay of Plenty Moturiki Island Fishermans Wall | |||||
17 | Monkey Mouse
FA: Mike Mee & Carl Bouge | 9m, 3 | |||
Te Moana-a-Toi / The Bay of Plenty Fermé Mangorewa The Wall of Cheese | |||||
17 | ★★ Bavarian Blue
The left hand climb out of three on the cheesgrater face. Follow the right trending line of bolts through heavily featured face to a double Ring and chain Anchor under the roof. Great warm-up-climb. Équip.: Max Warren & Dion Clapperton, 23 Nov. 2019 FFA: Max Warren & Dion Clapperton, 28 Nov. 2019 | 12m, 7 | |||
17 | ★ Death From Above
Great climbing up blocky ledges lead you to a jammed in bolder. Pull over it to reach the double ring and chain anchor at half height. Équip.: Max Warren & Dion Clapperton, 1 Mars 2020 FFA: Dion Clapperton & Max Warren, 7 Mars 2020 | 12m, 6 | |||
Te Moana-a-Toi / The Bay of Plenty Fermé Mangorewa Sector Sang | |||||
17 | ★ Under a Blood Red Sky
Starts up couple of meters of dirty roots *in situ rope off first bolt. Then up right hand cleaned groove, move left below the headwall, then step right onto it (crux), and up to DBCB passing several bolts. FA: Dave Offner, Christian Richardson & Andrew Wilkinson, 18 Fév 2018 | 22m, 9 | |||
Te Moana-a-Toi / The Bay of Plenty Fermé Mangorewa Bush Wall | |||||
17 | ★★ Gunpowder, Treason and Plot
Start up the right-facing corner, moving left through a groove to a balanced block. Follow the featured rock up a slabby wall, then up steeper rock to the chains. Place extended draws strategically to reduce drag. FA: Andrew Wilkinson, Dave Offner & Christian Richardson, 5 Nov. 2015 | 27m, 13 | |||
17 | ★★ Double Happy
Just right of Breezeblock. Climb the lower wall into a cave, then up and over the overhang tending left. FA: Kerry Crawford & Owen Keet, 14 Nov. 2015 | 25m, 10 | |||
17 | ★ Breezeblock
FA: Kerry Crawford | 25m, 13 | |||
17 | ★★ Popping Tags
The line just right of 'The Chickenator'. High first bolt, then ledges and overhangs. FA: Kerry Crawford & Owen Keet | 20m, 8 | |||
17 | ★★ The Chickenator
Right of 'Dada Got Stuck (On Spider Monkey Wall)'. First bolt is above the beginning of the chain for 'Bushy Ledge'. FA: Owen Keet | 20m, 9 | |||
Waikato Raglan Sky Castle | |||||
17 | ★★★ Return of the Sloth
FA: Harry Series, Mai 2022 | 10m |