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Discutez falaise

Leonard Cohen Memorial Buttress Style inconnu 26 voies en falaise

  • Contexte de la cotation : AU
  • Photos : 2
  • Ascensions : 60
26
AU
1214161820

Saison

J
F
M
A.
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Résumé

This crag lies at the foot of the lava flow north of the hut and south of the Mangatoetoenui stream adjacent to the falls from the Mangatoetoenui valley. trad and sport climbs from 8m to 20m in height, grades from 13 to 21 with scope for a few more hard routes. The rock is similar to the Wall of Sound but on a smaller more approachable scale. It has a number of impeccable lines and some good routes for learning to lead.

Description

Find more information on ClimbNZ https://climbnz.org.nz/nz/ni/tongariro/mt-ruapehu/tukino/leonard-cohen-memorial-buttress

Limit. de l'accès

If you want to park by the hut, make sure you get in contact with the NZAC as the gate up the last part of the gravel road is locked at all times. 4 WD is recommended to get up to the ski field.

Approche

Approach from the hut by dropping to the ridge, west of all the huts and following it down to the stream(NE direction) then sidling around the next ridge and, keeping your height, head straight across to the top left hand edge of the crag (about 10 minutes there and 15-25 minutes back to hut) Access to the top is easiest on the left side but there is an easy access scramble left of centre and an access rope at the right hand end. Belays are off boulders scattered across the top of the crag. Recommended basecamp is at the top as the bottom is very dusty except at far righthand end. Bring a tarp for your gear if you decide to set up at the bottom.

Où dormir

Book into the Tukino Lodge at the Ski field: https://shop.alpineclub.org.nz/product/tukino-lodge/

Historique

Graphique de l'historique des voies

The crag was discovered by David and Philip Garrity 31/1/16

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Publications

Voies

Ajouter une(des) voie(s) Ajouter un topo Réorganiser Éditer en masse Cotations converties
Cotation Voie
Cacher
Éditer
1
13 ★ Death Of A Ladies Man Trad 12m

Climb the crack on the most left hand side, finish up right to the big boulder to belay.

FFA: David Garrity & Bryce Martin, 21 Mars 2017

2
12 ★★ Arlo‘s Crack Trad 12m

Stellar route for new trad leaders. Climb the second crack from the left of the crag up outstanding great rock with good cracks for protection on your left. Finish up to right of the big boulder.

FFA: Bryce Martin & David Garrity, 21 Mars 2017

3
16 Right On Trad 16m

Awkward first moves lead to an easy ledge and finish by continuing right at the top. Walk off from there.

FFA: David Garrity & Bryce Martin, 20 Mars 2017

Cacher
Éditer
4
21 ★★ Up To You Sportive 10m, 4

Staunch overhanging climbing joining the top of Right on.

FFA: Bryce Martin, 20 Mars 2017

5
18 ★★ Psychological Preparation Trad 10m

Climb up to the overhanging hand crack and get ready step up. A short line with a cool move.

FA: Luke Gardner & Max Warren, 12 Mars 2023

Cacher
Éditer
6
13 ★★ A Street Trad 8m

Climb the wall and cracks 4m to the right hand side of the access route.

FFA: David Garrity & Bryce Martin, 20 Mars 2017

7
16 First We Take Manhatten Trad 8m

Start climbing the staunch crack, then the easier cracks to the right leading up onto the pinnacle. Don't exit right up the easy ground.

FFA: David Garrity & Bryce Martin, 21 Mars 2017

8
15 Ledge In Time Sportive 14m, 4

Follow the bolts 4m right of “First We Take Manhattan”. Steep finish.

FFA: Bryce Martin & David Garrity, 6 Fév 2017

9
15 Nuts And Bolt Trad mixte 14m, 1

This line starts 2m right of “Ledge In Time”. Climbing on gear after the first bolt.

FFA: Bryce Martin & David Garrity, 6 Fév 2017

10
15 ★★ Playtime Sportive 16m, 4

3m right of Nuts and Bolt.

FFA: Bryce Martin & David Garrity, 5 Fév 2017

11
15 ★★ Broke Again Sportive 16m, 4

4m right of Playtime. Hard start.

FFA: Bryce Martin & David Garrity, 5 Fév 2017

Cacher
Éditer
12
20 ★★ Bat Out Of Hell Trad 18m

Start on the left side of the cave and traverse to the right. Pull through the roof and mantle up to the ledge. Head up the face on good flakes. Bring tiny cams for the bottom, No.1 BD cam and offset wires for the face.

FA: Max Warren & Jacob Kuchler, 30 Jan 2022

13
20 ★★ White Widow Super Cheese Trad 18m

Start in the blank seam with small gear and follow the thin crack up towards the small bush and triangular shaped hole. Ground up first free ascent.

FFA: Jacob Kuchler & Max Warren, 30 Jan 2022

14
18 ★ Don’t Go Home With Your Hard On Sportive 18m, 5

15m right of Broke again. Follow 5 bolts up a rounded arete. Finish up to the right

FFA: David Garrity & Bryce Martin, 6 Fév 2017

15
17 ★ True Love Leaves No Traces Trad 18m

Climb up the corners to a prominent orange headwall with a left leaning crack. Finish up the arete on the left of the headwall.

FFA: David Garrity & Bryce Martin, 6 Fév 2017

16
Project Non-défini

line 4m right of True love... up to the left groove at the top.

Cacher
Éditer
17
16 ★ Blue Telescope Sportive 20m, 6

12m right of True Love Leaves No Traces

FFA: Bryce Martin, David Garrity, Ellen Garrity & Rory Weston, 30 Déc 2016

18
18 ★ Osteoarthritis Sportive 20m, 7

5m right of Blue Telescope finishing in about the same place

FFA: Bryce Martin, David Garrity & Philip Garrity, 1 Fév 2016

19
16 ★ Keep Off The Grass Trad 20m

5m right of Osteoarthritis. Then climb from the right side of the pedestal at the bottom. Follow corners and ledges past two bushes (and some smaller plants) to the top.

FFA: Philip Garrity, David Garrity & Bryce Martin, 1 Fév 2016

20
18 ★★ Fingerprints Trad mixte 20m, 1

2m right of Keep Off The Grass. Climb up the right of the bottom pedestal and up right past a bolt (crux) and finish up the headwall on the right. Pro small wires and cams and 2x1 or 1 and 2 camalot for top moves.

FFA: David Garrity & Bryce Martin, 21 Mars 2017

21
21 ★ Project No More The One The Boys Missed Trad 20m

3m right of Fingerprints. A bouldery crimpy start, this climb comes with 2 cruxes: Ist crux climbing to place first runner, this is a 5 rock placement so have it ready on quick draw! Climb up and past to get established in crack sytem. continue up to do a wide high step then pull around arete corner a airy move crux number two. Then continue on up a recessed crack system to top. Belay of a set back Boulder down by roped access route.

FFA: Richard Knott

Cacher
Éditer
22
18 ★★★ You Want It Darker Trad 20m

Climb the obvious crack system heading up just past the prow of the buttress. Finish up right of top block.

FFA: David Garrity & Bryce Martin, 30 Déc 2016

23
17 ★★★ It’s All Right Ma (I’m Only Bolting) Sportive 20m, 7

Climb the groove and face just right of “You Want it Darker”.

FFA: Bryce Martin & David Garrity, 5 Fév 2017

24
20 Don’t Tell Mother Trad 20m

Climb left of the roof onto ledges then up the steep headwall following a thin crack. This line was climbed onsight with no pre cleaning.

FFA: Alex, Bryce Martin & Mitch, 30 Déc 2016

25
17 ★ Iodine Trad 15m

The obvious offwidth to the right of “Don't Tell Mother”. Climb up and finish left beside the big chockstone. No offwidth grovelling required.

FFA: David Garrity & Bryce Martin, 5 Fév 2017

26
15 Tukino Time Sportive 15m, 4

Climb the corner 6m right of Iodine.

FFA: Bryce Martin & David Garrity, 5 Fév 2017

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18 ★★★ You Want It Darker

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Jacob Kuchler dans Don’t Tell Mother 20 - Crushing it!!

Jacob Kuchler dans Don’t Tell Mother 20 - Crushing it!!!

Dim 21 Mai
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