Ascensions dans Mid Norway contenant Bêta

#ecopoint

Amazing route. Super flowy, crimpy, board style climbing.

I punted twice but it’s the coolest crag I’ve ever punted at!

Dream climbing destination, still in a bit of a “pinch me” state that I got to come here 😍

Never underestimate the slabs

My biggest mental battle so far! Thanks Adam for the vision and inviting me to join the process. Really proud of this one, it has been one hell of a ride!

B.I.G. feels so strange to grade because it really doesn’t feel that bad if you try just the moves. The crux is an 8a+ boulder problem and by now I have it dialed so well that I can do it easily even multiple times in a row. But because of the very powerful style of the boulder it’s way more difficult to do it after 80+ moves of climbing.

To me it felt a whole step beyond Perfecto Mundo which seems confirmed at 9b+. This alongside reflections with Adam made me propose 9c for B.I.G. While in my eyes the range for grades up to 9b seem to have settled due to the total amount of routes and ascents, this doesn’t yet seem the case for 9b+ and 9c, where the possibilities for comparison are still very limited. There are not even 10 climbers that claim to have sent 9b+, and the total of routes graded 9b+ or harder is still below 15, most of which are yet to see repeats. This makes it obvious that confines for both 9b+ and 9c are still blurry and will develop over time and through ascents and shared opinions. I hope they will come soon!

So amazing 😍

Fun route out over the water, felt like 19, so may just be a conversion factor issue with thecrag

Dave told me to go left, right worked for me

Routes squeezed in a bit, but it was a good work out

Quite a pumpy introduction

Lovely setting by the river and nice rock, and it was dry despite the ground running with water.

Compared to some of the other routes more 6a territory

Took 2 goes at the start, did not think this climb flowed well

Nice varied route

Several flakes with x on them, able to climb around but needs proper cleaning

The topos in the climb Norway book are hopeless, just random lines thrown onto the rough section of wall.

The crux is quite tricky, and the way I solved it was chalkless. Interesting route

The start was a bit wet and awkward, improved after that, nice flake and route harder than the corner to left

Doesn’t look like the direct start has been done for a few years, the first 2 bolts covered in vegetation. A little tricky at start, the rest is a straightforward corner

The climbing didn’t really flow, largely due to bolt position.

Without a triple rack to weigh me down I should have floated up this but it had me puffing.

No send. Four goes over two days.

Warm-up. Repeat

Repeat

Great and pumpy route! A lot of fun sections. Four attempts in total.

Okay route up to a quite chossy section at the end. Had one go with some hangs.

One go with many rests. Did not get to the top - too pumped.

Third go, with good beta from others at the crag.

Really nice climb! Way too short to be classic, but the movement is much nicer than that on the 6c. Incredibly easy for the grade though, onsighted, downclimbed and climbed up again as a warmup! The biggest crux is finding an undercling above your head when the chalk begs you to go left!

Took a big traverse fall, and my could not bring myself to complete the sequence after that. Next time...

Hard and fun crux in the start, easier in the middle and then cool easier crux in the end. Really good route on good rock.

Very pretty route, nice moves on great rock.

Flowy, very nice route. Was a bit wet and went the wrong way on my first attept, felt great on the second.

Hardest 6c ever! Took 3 tries and quite an awkward beta to solve. If it weren't for the crux and the length this climb would be incredible!

Up to the roof

Second go. Mostly easy, but hard at the top. Super hard to onsight I assume.

Second go, after spending some time figuring out the cruxes at the first go. Very technical.

Very tricky, burly and desperate at the beginning. Then pump-fest to the top.

Warm-up. If I could only do one route for the rest of my life I think this would be the one I would choose. Just great!

Third go. Super nice but very pumpy.

Project big was wet again so I had to try something else finally. Tried this fun bouldery route a bit 6 years ago, 2nd try this trip. Maybe not the proudest line but definitely fun to climb!

Helt ok, kunne fått en runde til med stålbørste. Fin om man vil perse vil jeg tro

Trad

Warm up, slightly sharp rock