Cotation | Voie | Style d'escalade | Qualité | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mer 13 Avr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Voodoo Area Rats Alley | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Tarantula | 20m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Beautiful looking wall and a great corner crack. Quite sustained 18 moves with a couple of stemming rests.
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Mer 13 Avr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | ||||||
14 | ★★★ Lamplighter | 78m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Great climbing all the way!
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16 15 | ★ Lady Dihedral | 78m | ★ Bon | |||
Transfer into the corner makes the heart pump a little... but without the traffic the lichen dominates making for a cautious ascent when wet
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Mar 12 Avr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Echo Crag | ||||||
19 | ★★ Touch-Type | 25m, 2 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Awesome pitch! So well worth it to get up there. Very much like a Bluey's face climb.
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14 | ★★ Touchstone | 60m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Great climbing. Did first pitch to gain Touchtype.
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Mar 12 Avr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Kachoong Area | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Kachoong | 25m, 1 | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Gear in place from previous leaders in group.
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18 | ★★ Golden Echo | 25m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Fantastic climb with beautiful moves across wall and out right above the Kachoong roof. Well worth it if you're standing on photo ledge.
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Lun 11 Avr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Upper Central Gully Mari Buttress | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Mari | 35m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Fantastic climbing. Always worth doing.
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14 | ★★ Megalomaniac | 28m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Nice warm up for Mari.
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Lun 11 Avr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★★ XI | 30m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Love this climb. Lucky to enjoy the climb without leading it. Thanks Fabi!
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Lun 11 Avr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bard Buttress | ||||||
17 17 R | ★★ Checkmate | 85m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Absolutely stunning position on the third pitch. Probably one of the best grade 17 pitches at Araps. Second pitch has instant exposure too.
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Dim 10 Avr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Tannin | 35m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Just awesome!! Surprised I had the endurance, having not climbed so much in the last year.
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Dim 10 Avr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
13 | ★★ Horn Piece | 33m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Extremely nice climb with a great "summit" belay. Best way to get up to Red Wall.
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Dim 10 Avr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
14 | ★★ Tremulo | 25m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Fun warm up for Dirge and Jen's Roof.
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18 | ★★ Jens roof | 30m, 1 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Great climb, which doesn't really get the traffic it deserves.
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Sam 9 Avr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress | ||||||
14 | ★★ Mantis | 33m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Looks nasty but it's super fun. Huge holds through mini roof.
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Sam 9 Avr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae House of Atreus | ||||||
17 | ★★ Surface To Air | 30m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
A climb I always make sure I do when visiting Araps. One of my faves of all time.
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16 13 | ★★ Hell For Leather | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Can't believe I hadn't done it yet. MUCH better than Muldoon and should get a heap more traffic than it does. Take slings for chicken heads.
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Sam 9 Avr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Atridae Muldoon Area | ||||||
13 | ★★★ Muldoon | 42m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Let Fabi take the first pitch, but really, the second pitch is nicer. I actually believe Hell For Leather to be a better climb than Muldoon.
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Ven 8 Avr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Flinders Lane Area | ||||||
13 | ★ Ivan | 14m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Quite the contortionists climb. If you figure out what you need to do with your body the grade diminishes to its supposed grade 13...hmm 15?
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Ven 8 Avr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Blockbuster Ledge | ||||||
11 | ★★★ Blockbuster | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Very very clean climbing. A long pitch too, for full value.
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Ven 8 Avr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | ||||||
17 | ★★★ Missing Link | 30m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Awesome climbing in one of the most spectacular positions you'll find a climb of this grade. Start is quite hard (read: heady) for the grade
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Ven 8 Avr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★★ Resignation | 96m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Fantastic climbing. I got the money 3rd pitch. Can't believe I haven't climbed this before.
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Jeu 7 Avr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
18 | ★★ The Golden Fleece | 35m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Beautiful moves through the second crux.
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16 | ★ Jason | 30m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Quite slick through the crack, which can make it feel harder than 16.
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15 | ★★ Beautiful Possibilities | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Great climb, which I always try and do when visiting Araps.
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Jeu 7 Avr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes D Minor Pinnacle | ||||||
17 | ★ Crescendo | 35m | ★ Bon | |||
Climbed the second pitch after leading the first pitch of Liberetto. Nice combination.
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Jeu 7 Avr 2011 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | ||||||
17 16 | ★★ Libretto | 50m | ★ Bon | |||
Climbed the first pitch, to then connect to the second pitch of Crescendo. Best way to do them.
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Dim 20 Nov. 2005 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
14 | ★ That Boy Needs Therapy. | 15m, 4 | ★ Bon | |||
NIce new addition without encroaching on adjacent climbs
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19 19 R | ★ Arrow | 18m, 4 | ★ Bon | |||
Almost gave it very good quality, especially since it's KP. Nice moves..... dunno where the fourth bolt is though. Had to sling the hole at 4m and then three bolts to the top. Interesting finish makes you think a bit.
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Mer 19 Oct. 2005 - Orroral area | ||||||
Orroral Ridge Legoland Atrium | ||||||
23 | ★★ Empty Step | 10m, 3 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Mer 12 Oct. 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces The Watchtower | ||||||
9 | ★★★ Arachnus | 110m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Awesome climb and great exposure at the grade.
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Mar 11 Oct. 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | ||||||
15 | ★★ Beautiful Possibilities | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Great climb with fiddly pro in places.
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Sam 1 Oct. 2005 - Redcliffs | ||||||
Mythologica | ||||||
19 | ★★ Mythologica | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Sam 1 Oct. 2005 - Gibraltar and Corin Road | ||||||
Gibraltar Peak Nailbiter Spike | ||||||
16 | ★★ Nail Biter | 10m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Sam 1 Oct. 2005 - Arapiles | ||||||
Bard Buttress | ||||||
12 | ★★★ Bard | 120m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Dim 28 Août 2005 - Urbenville | ||||||
Battery Hill | ||||||
21 | ★ Abandonment Issues | 22m | ★ Bon | |||
Not 22.... easier or I'm climbing well... dunno.
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20 | ★★ Yellow Brick Road | 25m, 5 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Absolute awesome climb for the crag. Best of the day.
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18 | ★★ Scratchy | 18m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Very enjoyable face climbing.
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17 | ★ Batteries Not Included | 23m, 7 | ★ Bon | |||
17 | ★ Specific Gravity | 18m, 5 | ★ Bon | |||
Quite a good 17.
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19 | ★★ Ginger and Treacle | 23m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Very nice moves.
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15 | ★ Itchy | 18m, 5 | Dans la moyenne | |||
Dim 21 Août 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★ Gladiator | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Quite a technical crux section. 10-Oct-04 Hugh fell 5m on this middle part. Finally got on this climb to lead it and found it a relative breeze.
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Lun 1 Août 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Devils Dihedral | 45m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Absolutely brilliant climbing, that never relents in both class or its grade. There are a few rests but it still tests your endurance. I thought I wasn't up for it, but figured what the hell.... ended up cruising it.... made me feel GOOD!!
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21 | ★★★ Conquistador | 45m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Incredible climb. I really need to lead this before the end of the year. It's all there and just classy climbing the whole way. I bit tricky turning the corner into the fist jams. You also have to just motor through the overhanging crack through the good holds. Great climb!! Seconded Jamie.
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Dim 17 Juil 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
16 | ★★★ Satan's Smokestack | 40m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Very thrutchy but it seems to grow on you the further you go. The move outside the wide crack down low is a bit hairy. Worth doing but I wouldn't rave about it.
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20 | ★★ Footloose and Falling Free | 11m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Brilliant pumpy climbing with decent pro. Aliens are useful in the thin parallel crack through the crux.
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19 | ★★ Hollywood Rattlesnake | 18m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Really very nice. Plenty of good gear and did the whole climb with only wires and one hex. Well worth the effort.
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Dim 26 Juin 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
21 | ★★ Warlock DS | 26m | ★★ Excellent | |||
I reckon it's 20. Difficult, but not 21.
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17 16 | ★★ Micron | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Great climb, but not worth three stars. The start is a grovel and the great moves only last 10m. Worth doing though. Funny I haven't done it already.
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18 | ★★ Warlock | 26m | ★★ Excellent | |||
A great line and I reckon only worthy if it's done direct. Why would you climb a great line by using the start of another climb? Gotta be done direct and I reckon solid 20 start.
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Dim 26 Juin 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★ Egotistical Pinapple | 14m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Seconded Chris and enjoyed it quite a lot, except the difficult start. One day I'll give it a go on lead.
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15 | Pop-up Toaster | 6m | Pas la peine | |||
Only reason we did this was to fill in the remainder of the day after being on EP. Fairly crappy and a worthless top out. Rap off the big tree above to the right.
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Sam 18 Juin 2005 - Redcliffs | ||||||
Send in the Clowns | ||||||
16 | ★★ Trapezius | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Figured the arete would need to go, so I ventured out there for the first time, making a great variant start to Big Top and Send in the Clowns. Good exposure and nice moves up the arete. Good gear. Lots of air!
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15 | ★★★ Big Top | 25m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Very nice, airy finish to SITC, although I climbed a new variant start on the far left arete to gain Big Top.
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Dim 12 Juin 2005 - Mt Tinbeerwah | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Zircon Encrusted Tweezers | 40m, 9 | Dans la moyenne | |||
Thought I'd squeeze this lead in before heading home. A bit slick, given the conditions, but worth climbing. A bit balancy through the first four bolts. Look for the holds. They're there.
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16 | ★ The Runes of the Heretics | 20m, 5 | ★ Bon | |||
Very slick today, given the recent rain. Made it quite sketchy for the grade. May have to confirm the grade in the dry, but I reckon 17.
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19 | ★★ Pagan Nation | 25m, 10 | ★ Bon | |||
A pretty good climb and would have been enjoyed as little more if the rock was completely dry. Thin in places, but very well protected. The crux is thought provoking.
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Sam 4 Juin 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
19 18 | ★★★ Plume | 25m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Great climb. It was my first for the day and so it pumped me big time. Great climbing and great gear.
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20 | ★★ Termination | 18m | ★★ Excellent | |||
What a great climb. A few wierd moves, but great climbing and ample gear. Definately deserves a star.
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20 | ★★★ Piranha | 45m | ★★★ Classique | |||
An absolute stunning climb, with almost all the moves in the book. Long but has three good rests. Thinkabout it and you won't get pumped. Great gear all the way, except the bottom 7m is a bit fiddly.
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6 | ★ Saturday Afternoon Walk | 15m | ★ Bon | |||
Bumbled up this climb to get to the ledges above. Quite nice for a beginner, I reckon. The short 5m corner above to the Termination ledge is a great continuation for beginners too.
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Mer 25 Mai 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
21 | ★★ The Stars Look Down | 18m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Lead it with no difficulty. Had seconded it on the last outing.
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Dim 22 Mai 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
17 | ★★ Wizards Back | 10m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Great Position, good for photos. Nice line. Deserves a star! Get gear in soon to prevent factor 2.
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Ven 20 Mai 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
16 | ★★ Materialistic Prostitution | 20m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Love this climb! I think Phil climbed this one bare foot!
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Dim 15 Mai 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★ Dave Manks Electric Gorilla | 20m | ★ Bon | |||
Dim 15 Mai 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Infinity | 40m | ★★★ Super classique | |||
Fantastic. The best route I've done so far at Frog. It spooked me for months and now I've done it!
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Dim 15 Mai 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
18 | ★★ Sacrilege Crack | 25m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Seconded Phil. Better than what the guide makes out. Almost worth a star, I reckon.
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Sam 14 Mai 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
16 17 | ★ Fat Mattress | 30m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Better than the description lets out. Direct start is more like 17 or 18.
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Mer 11 Mai 2005 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Desperation Wall | ||||||
16 | ★★ Line Of Credit | 70m, 23 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Very nice climb considering the rock quality in the area. Very well protected, but watch getting to the first bolt.... it's a bit of a reach. Two 60m ropes will get you back to the ground, otherwise you'll have two raps.
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Sam 7 Mai 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
20 | ★★ The Great Big Bright Green Pleasure Machine | 33m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Fantastic Climb that deserves two stars. If you can get past the initial off-width. The face and crack work above is beyond comprehension. Awesome! Do it, do it!
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Sam 7 Mai 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
East of the access track | ||||||
21 | ★★ The Stars Look Down | 18m | ★★★ Classique | |||
had to climb it after photographing Andy on it. next time I'll lead it for the redpoint. Awesome climb with a thought-provoking crux on gear that needs to be well placed. The top section is fantastic and well protected. Lead it on 22-05-05. Cruised it!
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11 | Condor | 18m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Seconded Troy so that I could get up to the ledge and abseil off the side of The Stars Look Down and photograph Andy.
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Sam 7 Mai 2005 - Frog Buttress | ||||||
West of the access track | ||||||
19 | ★★ Sorcerer's Apprentice | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
What can I say, but do it if you're climbing 20, because it's a very strenuous 19. It's well worth it though. Jamming and the occasional needed face hold.
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Dim 3 Avr 2005 - Mt Ngungun | ||||||
Upper Cliffs The Upper Main Cliff | ||||||
13 | ★ Deep Purple | 35m | ★★ Excellent | |||
Steph's second ever trad route. Nice varied climbing.
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12 | ★ Sticky Fingers | 18m | ★ Bon | |||
Climbed it with Steph. It was her first trad route ever.
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Dim 27 Mars 2005 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
17 17 R | ★ Tiger's Eye (Tiger Eye) | 18m, 3 | ★ Bon | |||
15 | ★ Tiger Stripe | 18m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | |||
20 | ★★ Kiwi | 18m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Sam 26 Mars 2005 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
14 | ★ Tiger's Tail | 18m, 5 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Dim 6 Mars 2005 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Clemency Wall | ||||||
16 | ★★ Clemency | 190m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Lead the first three pitches with Phil, so I could see for next time where it goes and where the remaining pitches go. The third pitch is fecking awesome! Not a climb for grade 16 climbers! Should be taken very serious.
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Mar 1 Mars 2005 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Celestial Wall | ||||||
22 | ★ Vernal Equinox | 28m, 11 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Sam 19 Fév 2005 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
16 | ★ The Bee's Knees | 16m, 5 | ★ Bon | |||
Tricky for the grade.
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Sam 19 Fév 2005 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Celestial Wall | ||||||
22 | ★ Vernal Equinox | 28m, 11 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Got it! After much aprehension at the crux, I blasted through it. So far my equal best onsight to date. Woo Hoo!
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Sam 19 Fév 2005 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
19 | ★ Mr Plow | 18m, 5 | ★ Bon | |||
Not too bad. The first moves would be heady on lead.
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Sam 19 Fév 2005 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Celestial Wall | ||||||
18 22 | ★★ Rubicon (Rubicon p1) | 85m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Unbelievable pitch! One of the best grade 18 climbs in Queensland! A must do!
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Sam 19 Fév 2005 - Kangaroo Point | ||||||
Left Main Wall | ||||||
14 | ★ The Duck's Nuts | 16m, 5 | ★ Bon | |||
Very nice moves. Great first timer lead. Probably 13 though.
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12 | ★ Date Anatomy | 16m, 4 | ★ Bon | |||
Dim 13 Fév 2005 - Redcliffs | ||||||
Send in the Clowns | ||||||
18 | ★★ Elysium | 20m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Very nice climbing, with an interesting start. Would like to lead it next time.
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Dim 13 Fév 2005 - Redcliffs | ||||||
Mythologica | ||||||
21 | ★★ Urban Legend VF | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Awesome climbing with plenty of varied moves and exposure. The rising traverse out to the arete was a little unnerving but great fun.
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Mar 1 Fév 2005 - Redcliffs | ||||||
Mythologica | ||||||
19 | ★★ Mythologica | 30m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Sam 29 Jan 2005 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Celestial Wall | ||||||
14 | ★ Heliosphere | 35m | ★ Bon | |||
Nice warm up for the climbs above. Next time I'll lead it, since we were swapping leads.
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22 | ★★ Latitudes | 35m | ★★★ Classique | |||
Really HOT day. Hundreds of horse flies. Found the clip above the mini ledge really committing. Pumped out at the third last clip. Took a few 3m falls, but couldn't finish it without dogging it (due to the heat). I'll be back! Found pitch 3 of Aphelion a tad easier.
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Sam 29 Jan 2005 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Slider Wall | ||||||
17 | ★ Blowing Bubbles | 15m, 4 | ★ Bon | |||
Our only climb before escaping the barrage of mozzies and horse flies. A few of the harder climbs had water seeping over them too. Ok, climb though.
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Sam 22 Jan 2005 - Mt Tinbeerwah | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★ Avatar | 40m, 9 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Great climb that could almost deserve two stars. One of the best lines on the cliff. With Sacred Snakes it's a must do at the cliff.
|
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20 | ★★ Thin Is In | 40m, 12 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Great moves through the bulge and awesome thin, clean moves on the slab above. Deserves a star.
|
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17 | ★★ Sports Fan | 45m, 11 | ★★ Excellent | |||
Another nice line, which was a good warm up for the routes I did that day. Most of the climb is 15. Crux through overlap.
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21 | ★★ Uncertainty Principle (Uncertanty Principle) | 45m, 13 | ★★★ Classique | |||
Last climb before the heat and humidity took over. Graet climb, with all the holds where you want them. The second overhang is harder than the first.
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Dim 14 Nov. 2004 - Mt Tibrogargan | ||||||
Celestial Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Aphelion (Aphelion p4 / Rubicon p3) | 87m | ★★ Excellent | |||
So damn pumped by this stage I couldn't pull the moves in one go. Awesome climbing. Very exposed off the belay.
|