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Ascensions dans Oceania comme Onsight ou Onsight solo trad par Jay

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Affichant les 35 ascensions total.

Cotation Voie Style d'escalade Qualité
Lun 3 Juin 2024 - Arthur's Pass
Mt Temple Temple Buttresses
14 Central Buttress - avec Jack Davies Trad 190m Classique
Took a slightly harder line, maybe around 15/16 - 6 60m rope stretchers to the top!

 
Dim 3 Mars 2024 - The Remarkables
Single Cone East Face
15 Delta - avec Gareth Trad 200m Bon
Picked a slightly harder line than the normal one, going a bit further right on the slab. Went right again from the belay on the ledge to go up some more slabs and then a chimney between Delta and Epsilon.

Variation on the first pitch was a grade 17ish slab, including a pretty spicy swing I was happy Gareth led, and a 30m runout.

The second pitch was probably a stiff 15 (but super fun climbing the whole time). Fun scramble to the top, took us to the slabs of the NE Ridge

 
Ven 1 Mars 2024 - The Remarkables
Double Cone East Face
17 ~16 Alta La Vista - avec Alex Heanly Trad 300m Dans la moyenne
First two pitches were good but we got a bit off route and missed the crux pitch by going too far left. Had another two pitches at a pretty solid 16 through a chimney & ledge system and then simulled through easy terrain to the top.

One stellar section was a hand crack for about 30m at about grade 15, but the rest was kinda average.

 
Lun 26 Fév 2024 - The Remarkables
West Face Telecom Tower
18 Facile Indian Summer - avec Riccardo, Gareth
1 17 30 Trad grimpé en tête par Jay

Definitely the money pitch - super fun climbing, with as much gear as you like.

2 16 50 En second grimpé en tête par Gareth

Gareth led up the mossy face on the right side of the corner. Good pro, but not as classic as pitch one.

3 15 60 En second grimpé en tête par Riccardo

Riccardo's first lead on gear. Pretty non-obvious where to go so he had to quest out in a few different directions.

Eventually, did a low traverse and went up an unprotected steep slab, which seemed roughly right and took us up to a bolted anchor in the boulder field, so I guess it was the right way.

Pretty random place to have a belay TBH.

4 18 60 Trad grimpé en tête par Jay

Description in the guide is not great. There are heaps of options from the ledge. I think we tried every single one of them, before eventually finding the where you were meant to go up. Lot's of up and down climbing!

Trad 200m Classique
Cool day out. Climbing is pretty cruisy for the grade but finding pitch 4 was a bit weird.

 
Sam 2 Déc 2023 - The Remarkables
Double Cone Alta Slabs
17 ~17 The Fat Lady Sings At The Circus - avec Ola Wesolowska
1 Trad grimpé en tête par Jay
2 17 Trad grimpé en tête par Jay
3 Trad grimpé en tête par Jay
Trad mixte 140m, 6 Classique
Really fun climb - last pitch is where the money is. The rooflet is pretty bouldery for a 16, but it's one move and on a bolt. A foot slipped and I only just managed to hold it together

 
Ven 1 Déc 2023 - Homer Hut Area
Moir Moir's Mate West Face
20 Difficile Lucky Strike - avec Alex Heanly
1 18 55 En second grimpé en tête par Alex Heanly
2 18 45 Trad grimpé en tête par Jay
3 18 30 En second grimpé en tête par Alex Heanly
4 19 45 Trad grimpé en tête par Jay

My favourite pitch!

5 20 25 En second grimpé en tête par Alex Heanly
6 20 25 Trad grimpé en tête par Jay
7 13 50 Trad grimpé en tête par Jay
8 12 En second grimpé en tête par Alex Heanly

Added a bonus pitch on gear up some of the more interesting terrain instead of just scrambling to the summit

Trad mixte 280m, 11 Classique
The walk in might have been my favourite bit of the climb - Like a mini Grand Traverse in Queenstown, but with Fiordland views.

Climbing was good, most fun pitch was probably the 19. Views the whole way are spectacular.

Pretty much a sport route, with a few bits of gear where it's easy to place, and the climbing is a bit mellower.

 
Sam 14 Oct. 2023 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
20 Facile The Ravages of Time - avec Grant
1 17 20m En second grimpé en tête par Grant

Cool slabby pitch - all bolts

2 18 35m Trad grimpé en tête par Jay

Super fun pitch. 1 bolt off the ground and easy gear. Some cool airy moves stepping around the arete.

3 18 30m En second grimpé en tête par Grant

Good gear and another cool move around and arete.

4 20 30m Trad grimpé en tête par Jay

Probably the most technical pitch. Surprisingly not pumpy at all. Maybe grade 12 on gear and then then an easy 20 on bolts.

5 17 20m Trad grimpé en tête par Jay

Surprisingly, I found this pitch the hardest. You've got to really pull off the ground and then sick moves up the arete. All bolts.

6 16 35m En second grimpé en tête par Grant

Fun moves!

7 16 30m Trad grimpé en tête par Jay

Super fun!

8 20 35m En second grimpé en tête par Grant

Definitely the coolest pitch! Easy crack climbing the then a gentle overhang with jugs

Trad mixte 240m, 47 Excellent
FWIW this route can just be descended on a single 60m rope. We climbed on two 60s but didn't need them for the raps. Accidentally rapped down the first set of anchors from the half way ledge, which made for three 30m raps and a little dirty scramble.

 
Lun 17 Avr 2023 - The Remarkables
Double Cone East Face
17 ~16 DB Eh? - avec Tom O Roy Trad 350m Bon
Pretty soft for the grade - there's one move on a small roof that's maybe grade 17 but the rest is 5-15

We swung leads for the first four and a half pitches and simul climbed the rest (more out of inertia than any real need). The last four pitches are pretty cruisy scrambling - significantly easier than the NE Ridge of Single Cone or the GT. Maybe comparable to the SE Couloir?

To descend we unroped and scrambled down to the abseil, midway through pitch five. Walking down a bit further, we thought we were next to the end of the first pitch, and a bit more scrambling took us to the bolts and we rapped straight down to our bags.

Pretty mellow most of the way, but a cool day out - just expect more scrambling than climbing

 
Mer 15 Mars 2023 - The Remarkables
Double Cone East Face
13 My Kingdom for a Horse - avec Gareth Hews
1 Trad grimpé en tête par Jay

Had snowmelt flowing down it which made it a bit interesting. Quite muddy in the cracks too.

2 En second grimpé en tête par Gareth Hews
3 Trad grimpé en tête par Jay
Trad 160m Pas la peine
Probably would've enjoyed it more if it wasn't soaking wet, covered in mud and freezing Last pitch was by far the most enjoyable (and coincidentally, driest).

 
Mer 13 Avr 2022 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes Northern Buttress
9 Skyline Minor - avec Alex Mantaut Trad 120m
Linked a bit of this either side of "Pegasus"

 
18 All Systems Go - avec Alex Mantaut Trad 32m Bon
Seconded the first half, led the second and linked to the second half of "Pegasus" and into Skyline Minor

 
14 Sentinel Ridge - avec Alex Mantaut Trad 70m Classique
Linked into this from the top of "Skyline Minor"

 
Sam 9 Avr 2022 - Federation Peak
South Western Cliffs
5 The Normal Route - avec Alex Mantaut Trad 100m Classique
Pretty rad walk! Definitely would've been nice to be able to rap down.

 
Mer 6 Avr 2022 - Fortescue Bay
The Moai
16 The Moai Escape - avec Alex Mantaut
1 12 60m grimpé en tête par Alex Mantaut
2 16 grimpé en tête par Jay
Trad 60m
Mar 5 Avr 2022 - Fortescue Bay
The Candlestick
18 Corner Route - avec Alex Mantaut
1 18 30m grimpé en tête par Jay
2 17 30m grimpé en tête par Alex Mantaut
3 15 25m grimpé en tête par Jay
4 15 20m grimpé en tête par Alex Mantaut
Trad 110m Classique
Lun 4 Avr 2022 - Cape Raoul
8 Route from Wedding Cake to Cape - avec Alex Mantaut Trad 300m
16 The Wedding Cake Return Pitch - avec Alex Mantaut Trad 35m Excellent
Gets a star for going into the bowels of the earth

 
19 18 Jihad - avec Alex Mantaut Trad 30m Bon
Pretty exciting at grade 18 Definitely a bit more intense than the first pitch.

 
22 Pole Dancer - avec Alex Mantaut
1 16 10m grimpé en tête par Alex Mantaut
2 22 30m grimpé en tête par Jay
Trad mixte 40m, 12 Super classique
Really cool climbing - like an indoor boulder problem. Heaps of good heels!

 
Mar 22 Mars 2022 - Warrumbungles
Crater Bluff
17 Lieder (Lieder Linkup Lieben) - avec Alex Mantaut
1 30m grimpé en tête par Alex Mantaut
2 30m grimpé en tête par Jay
4 40m grimpé en tête par Alex Mantaut
5 17 50m linkup Lieben , grimpé en tête par Jay
6 35m grimpé en tête par Alex Mantaut
Trad 190m Bon
Started pretty well but got a bit lost and ended up on the crux pitch of Lieben which was a bit spicy

 
Lun 21 Mars 2022 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - avec Alex Mantaut
1 10 78m grimpé en tête par Alex Mantaut
2 grimpé en tête par Alex Mantaut
3 grimpé en tête par Jay
4 grimpé en tête par Jay
Trad 78m Bon
Did it in two pitches with Alex

 
Mer 16 Fév 2022 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Narrow Neck Crags Southern Crag
15 Fuddy Duddy Trad 95m Excellent
We did the direct start and I wouldn’t recommend it. It was loose as and I pulled off a few blocks and broke a foothold or two. The rest of the climb was rad. Start of the third pitch is definitely at the hard end of 13

 
Mar 15 Fév 2022 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area
14 Joseph - avec Alex Mantaut Trad 46m Bon
18 The Eternity - avec Alex Mantaut Trad 22m Super classique
Pretty sick route. Lots of real good rests which lowers the intensity a bit.

 
Dim 13 Fév 2022 - Wolgan Valley
Coal Mines Cliff
19 Positively 4th Street - avec Alex Mantaut Trad 43m Bon
Bottom half is awesome! I followed the crack all the way to the top, but wasn't really worth it. Probably more bang for your buck to just rap down from the anchors on 'Absolutely Sweet Marie'.

 
16 Conspiracy - avec Alex Mantaut
1 16 45m grimpé en tête par Jay
2 16 grimpé en tête par Alex Mantaut
Trad 45m Excellent
Really cool, cruisy climbing! Did it in two pitches, I lead the first, Alex lead the second.

 
Mer 26 Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains
Leura The Fortress
11 Tom Thumb - avec Alex Mantaut
1 8 18m grimpé en tête par Alex Mantaut
2 10 40m grimpé en tête par Jay
3 9 16m grimpé en tête par Alex Mantaut
4 8 45m grimpé en tête par Jay
5 11 21m grimpé en tête par Alex Mantaut
6 8 26m grimpé en tête par Jay
Trad mixte 170m, 10 Bon
Pretty much a run out sport climb - didn’t need much gear. Pitch 5 is by far the best pitch!

 
Mar 3 Nov. 2020 - Barrier Range
Steeple Peak
14 Weta Prowl - avec Gabriel Jacobs Corban Trad 400m Classique
Dim 13 Sept 2020 - Remarkable Dykes
13 Angels' Pavement - avec casey harris Trad 40m Excellent
Dim 28 Juin 2020 - Warrumbungles
Crater Bluff
14 Cornerstone Rib Trad 190m Classique
Lun 6 Avr 2020 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes Northern Buttress
14 Pegasus - avec Dion Woolley Trad 48m Excellent
12 Pulpit Chimney - avec Dion Woolley Trad 60m Excellent
Mar 7 Jan 2020 - Cape Raoul
18 Rain Of Terror - avec Dion Woolley Trad 30m Excellent
Scouting mission with Dion

 
Mer 1 Jan 2020 - Frenchmans Cap Area
Frenchmans Cap Tahune Face
12 ~16 Deceptive Gully - avec Tom Veit Trad 120m Excellent
Dim 19 Mai 2019 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Sweet Dreams Walls
14 Sweet Dreams Trad mixte 130m, 20 Dans la moyenne

Affichant les 35 ascensions total.

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