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Begehungen in Oceania als Onsight oder Onsight solo als traditionell von Jay

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Zeigt alle 35 Begehungen.

Schwierigkeitsgrad Route Stil Qualität
Mo 3. Jun 2024 - Arthur's Pass
Mt Temple Temple Buttresses
14 Central Buttress - mit Jack Davies Traditionell 190m Klassiker
Took a slightly harder line, maybe around 15/16 - 6 60m rope stretchers to the top!

 
So 3. Mär 2024 - The Remarkables
Single Cone East Face
15 Delta - mit Gareth Traditionell 200m Gut
Picked a slightly harder line than the normal one, going a bit further right on the slab. Went right again from the belay on the ledge to go up some more slabs and then a chimney between Delta and Epsilon.

Variation on the first pitch was a grade 17ish slab, including a pretty spicy swing I was happy Gareth led, and a 30m runout.

The second pitch was probably a stiff 15 (but super fun climbing the whole time). Fun scramble to the top, took us to the slabs of the NE Ridge

 
Fr 1. Mär 2024 - The Remarkables
Double Cone East Face
17 ~16 Alta La Vista - mit Alex Heanly Traditionell 300m Durchschnitt
First two pitches were good but we got a bit off route and missed the crux pitch by going too far left. Had another two pitches at a pretty solid 16 through a chimney & ledge system and then simulled through easy terrain to the top.

One stellar section was a hand crack for about 30m at about grade 15, but the rest was kinda average.

 
Mo 26. Feb 2024 - The Remarkables
West Face Telecom Tower
18 leicht Indian Summer - mit Riccardo, Gareth
1 17 30 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Jay

Definitely the money pitch - super fun climbing, with as much gear as you like.

2 16 50 Nachstieg Vorstieg durch Gareth

Gareth led up the mossy face on the right side of the corner. Good pro, but not as classic as pitch one.

3 15 60 Nachstieg Vorstieg durch Riccardo

Riccardo's first lead on gear. Pretty non-obvious where to go so he had to quest out in a few different directions.

Eventually, did a low traverse and went up an unprotected steep slab, which seemed roughly right and took us up to a bolted anchor in the boulder field, so I guess it was the right way.

Pretty random place to have a belay TBH.

4 18 60 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Jay

Description in the guide is not great. There are heaps of options from the ledge. I think we tried every single one of them, before eventually finding the where you were meant to go up. Lot's of up and down climbing!

Traditionell 200m Klassiker
Cool day out. Climbing is pretty cruisy for the grade but finding pitch 4 was a bit weird.

 
Sa 2. Dez 2023 - The Remarkables
Double Cone Alta Slabs
17 ~17 The Fat Lady Sings At The Circus - mit Ola Wesolowska
1 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Jay
2 17 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Jay
3 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Jay
Gemischt trad 140m, 6 Klassiker
Really fun climb - last pitch is where the money is. The rooflet is pretty bouldery for a 16, but it's one move and on a bolt. A foot slipped and I only just managed to hold it together

 
Fr 1. Dez 2023 - Homer Hut Area
Moir Moir's Mate West Face
20 schwer Lucky Strike - mit Alex Heanly
1 18 55 Nachstieg Vorstieg durch Alex Heanly
2 18 45 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Jay
3 18 30 Nachstieg Vorstieg durch Alex Heanly
4 19 45 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Jay

My favourite pitch!

5 20 25 Nachstieg Vorstieg durch Alex Heanly
6 20 25 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Jay
7 13 50 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Jay
8 12 Nachstieg Vorstieg durch Alex Heanly

Added a bonus pitch on gear up some of the more interesting terrain instead of just scrambling to the summit

Gemischt trad 280m, 11 Klassiker
The walk in might have been my favourite bit of the climb - Like a mini Grand Traverse in Queenstown, but with Fiordland views.

Climbing was good, most fun pitch was probably the 19. Views the whole way are spectacular.

Pretty much a sport route, with a few bits of gear where it's easy to place, and the climbing is a bit mellower.

 
Sa 14. Okt 2023 - Chinaman's Bluff
Ravages Area
20 leicht The Ravages of Time - mit Grant
1 17 20m Nachstieg Vorstieg durch Grant

Cool slabby pitch - all bolts

2 18 35m Traditionell Vorstieg durch Jay

Super fun pitch. 1 bolt off the ground and easy gear. Some cool airy moves stepping around the arete.

3 18 30m Nachstieg Vorstieg durch Grant

Good gear and another cool move around and arete.

4 20 30m Traditionell Vorstieg durch Jay

Probably the most technical pitch. Surprisingly not pumpy at all. Maybe grade 12 on gear and then then an easy 20 on bolts.

5 17 20m Traditionell Vorstieg durch Jay

Surprisingly, I found this pitch the hardest. You've got to really pull off the ground and then sick moves up the arete. All bolts.

6 16 35m Nachstieg Vorstieg durch Grant

Fun moves!

7 16 30m Traditionell Vorstieg durch Jay

Super fun!

8 20 35m Nachstieg Vorstieg durch Grant

Definitely the coolest pitch! Easy crack climbing the then a gentle overhang with jugs

Gemischt trad 240m, 47 Sehr gut
FWIW this route can just be descended on a single 60m rope. We climbed on two 60s but didn't need them for the raps. Accidentally rapped down the first set of anchors from the half way ledge, which made for three 30m raps and a little dirty scramble.

 
Mo 17. Apr 2023 - The Remarkables
Double Cone East Face
17 ~16 DB Eh? - mit Tom O Roy Traditionell 350m Gut
Pretty soft for the grade - there's one move on a small roof that's maybe grade 17 but the rest is 5-15

We swung leads for the first four and a half pitches and simul climbed the rest (more out of inertia than any real need). The last four pitches are pretty cruisy scrambling - significantly easier than the NE Ridge of Single Cone or the GT. Maybe comparable to the SE Couloir?

To descend we unroped and scrambled down to the abseil, midway through pitch five. Walking down a bit further, we thought we were next to the end of the first pitch, and a bit more scrambling took us to the bolts and we rapped straight down to our bags.

Pretty mellow most of the way, but a cool day out - just expect more scrambling than climbing

 
Mi 15. Mär 2023 - The Remarkables
Double Cone East Face
13 My Kingdom for a Horse - mit Gareth Hews
1 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Jay

Had snowmelt flowing down it which made it a bit interesting. Quite muddy in the cracks too.

2 Nachstieg Vorstieg durch Gareth Hews
3 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Jay
Traditionell 160m Vergiss es
Probably would've enjoyed it more if it wasn't soaking wet, covered in mud and freezing Last pitch was by far the most enjoyable (and coincidentally, driest).

 
Mi 13. Apr 2022 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes Northern Buttress
9 Skyline Minor - mit Alex Mantaut Traditionell 120m
Linked a bit of this either side of "Pegasus"

 
18 All Systems Go - mit Alex Mantaut Traditionell 32m Gut
Seconded the first half, led the second and linked to the second half of "Pegasus" and into Skyline Minor

 
14 Sentinel Ridge - mit Alex Mantaut Traditionell 70m Klassiker
Linked into this from the top of "Skyline Minor"

 
Sa 9. Apr 2022 - Federation Peak
South Western Cliffs
5 The Normal Route - mit Alex Mantaut Traditionell 100m Klassiker
Pretty rad walk! Definitely would've been nice to be able to rap down.

 
Mi 6. Apr 2022 - Fortescue Bay
The Moai
16 The Moai Escape - mit Alex Mantaut
1 12 60m Vorstieg durch Alex Mantaut
2 16 Vorstieg durch Jay
Traditionell 60m
Di 5. Apr 2022 - Fortescue Bay
The Candlestick
18 Corner Route - mit Alex Mantaut
1 18 30m Vorstieg durch Jay
2 17 30m Vorstieg durch Alex Mantaut
3 15 25m Vorstieg durch Jay
4 15 20m Vorstieg durch Alex Mantaut
Traditionell 110m Klassiker
Mo 4. Apr 2022 - Cape Raoul
8 Route from Wedding Cake to Cape - mit Alex Mantaut Traditionell 300m
16 The Wedding Cake Return Pitch - mit Alex Mantaut Traditionell 35m Sehr gut
Gets a star for going into the bowels of the earth

 
19 18 Jihad - mit Alex Mantaut Traditionell 30m Gut
Pretty exciting at grade 18 Definitely a bit more intense than the first pitch.

 
22 Pole Dancer - mit Alex Mantaut
1 16 10m Vorstieg durch Alex Mantaut
2 22 30m Vorstieg durch Jay
Gemischt trad 40m, 12 Mega-Klassiker
Really cool climbing - like an indoor boulder problem. Heaps of good heels!

 
Di 22. Mär 2022 - Warrumbungles
Crater Bluff
17 Lieder (Lieder Linkup Lieben) - mit Alex Mantaut
1 30m Vorstieg durch Alex Mantaut
2 30m Vorstieg durch Jay
4 40m Vorstieg durch Alex Mantaut
5 17 50m Verbindung Lieben , Vorstieg durch Jay
6 35m Vorstieg durch Alex Mantaut
Traditionell 190m Gut
Started pretty well but got a bit lost and ended up on the crux pitch of Lieben which was a bit spicy

 
Mo 21. Mär 2022 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Alex Mantaut
1 10 78m Vorstieg durch Alex Mantaut
2 Vorstieg durch Alex Mantaut
3 Vorstieg durch Jay
4 Vorstieg durch Jay
Traditionell 78m Gut
Did it in two pitches with Alex

 
Mi 16. Feb 2022 - Blue Mountains
Katoomba Area Narrow Neck Narrow Neck Crags Southern Crag
15 Fuddy Duddy Traditionell 95m Sehr gut
We did the direct start and I wouldn’t recommend it. It was loose as and I pulled off a few blocks and broke a foothold or two. The rest of the climb was rad. Start of the third pitch is definitely at the hard end of 13

 
Di 15. Feb 2022 - Blue Mountains
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area
14 Joseph - mit Alex Mantaut Traditionell 46m Gut
18 The Eternity - mit Alex Mantaut Traditionell 22m Mega-Klassiker
Pretty sick route. Lots of real good rests which lowers the intensity a bit.

 
So 13. Feb 2022 - Wolgan Valley
Coal Mines Cliff
19 Positively 4th Street - mit Alex Mantaut Traditionell 43m Gut
Bottom half is awesome! I followed the crack all the way to the top, but wasn't really worth it. Probably more bang for your buck to just rap down from the anchors on 'Absolutely Sweet Marie'.

 
16 Conspiracy - mit Alex Mantaut
1 16 45m Vorstieg durch Jay
2 16 Vorstieg durch Alex Mantaut
Traditionell 45m Sehr gut
Really cool, cruisy climbing! Did it in two pitches, I lead the first, Alex lead the second.

 
Mi 26. Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains
Leura The Fortress
11 Tom Thumb - mit Alex Mantaut
1 8 18m Vorstieg durch Alex Mantaut
2 10 40m Vorstieg durch Jay
3 9 16m Vorstieg durch Alex Mantaut
4 8 45m Vorstieg durch Jay
5 11 21m Vorstieg durch Alex Mantaut
6 8 26m Vorstieg durch Jay
Gemischt trad 170m, 10 Gut
Pretty much a run out sport climb - didn’t need much gear. Pitch 5 is by far the best pitch!

 
Di 3. Nov 2020 - Barrier Range
Steeple Peak
14 Weta Prowl - mit Gabriel Jacobs Corban Traditionell 400m Klassiker
So 13. Sep 2020 - Remarkable Dykes
13 Angels' Pavement - mit casey harris Traditionell 40m Sehr gut
So 28. Jun 2020 - Warrumbungles
Crater Bluff
14 Cornerstone Rib Traditionell 190m Klassiker
Mo 6. Apr 2020 - Mount Wellington
The Organ Pipes Northern Buttress
14 Pegasus - mit Dion Woolley Traditionell 48m Sehr gut
12 Pulpit Chimney - mit Dion Woolley Traditionell 60m Sehr gut
Di 7. Jan 2020 - Cape Raoul
18 Rain Of Terror - mit Dion Woolley Traditionell 30m Sehr gut
Scouting mission with Dion

 
Mi 1. Jan 2020 - Frenchmans Cap Area
Frenchmans Cap Tahune Face
12 ~16 Deceptive Gully - mit Tom Veit Traditionell 120m Sehr gut
So 19. Mai 2019 - Blue Mountains
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Sweet Dreams Walls
14 Sweet Dreams Gemischt trad 130m, 20 Durchschnitt

Zeigt alle 35 Begehungen.

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