A unique area for Romania with thuggy athletic roof climbing on good holds and mostly permanent gear. Lots of link-ups and crossing lines exist, with groups of climbs finishing on shared anchors. If you're from out of town it's good to talk to a local that knows the routes so you don't get the harder lines confused. Most of the routes have the name painted at the base.
From Cluj-Napoca (airport available) take E60 road to Turda (around 25 km). From Turda there are two possibilities:
Take DN75 road to Campeni. 7 km after passing Mihai Viteazu turn right towards Cheia village. Pass through the village and continue until you’ll see the gorge (east entrance).
Take secondary road and drive towards Petreștii de Jos village. A short walk from the village will take you to the west entrance of Turzii Gorge.
Park in front of the Salvamont Hut across the small bridge, there is small lot to the left of the white building. If this is full you will have to pay 10 lei to park in the big private lot. GPS: (46.5602668, 23.6906879)
Walk past the hut taking the trail just behind it. Follow it uphill and at both intersections go right. Eventually you will come to an opening in a scree field. Continue across the scree to the woods after enjoying the view. There's a few more spots for pictures on the way. After another small opening with some rocks on the right, the trail will descend downhill for a second before turning sharply uphill for the last part until you finally reach the cave. Total approach time 20-30 minutes. GPS: (46.5623940, 23.6820760)
Camping 1 minute away before heading up the road out of the gorge. Lots of airbnb's and rentals in Turda (20 min) and Cluj-Napoca (45 min).
Keep the cave clean for everyone's enjoyment! Don't litter in the cave. Don't use the bathroom in the cave. No fires in the cave.
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Peştera Ungurească - Pestera Ungureasca
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