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Résumé

A huge north-facing cave situated high in the Turzii Gorge. Perfect for hot days or those where you want to avoid the sun. Can be climbed in the rain as well but the holds won't feel ideal.

Description

A unique area for Romania with thuggy athletic roof climbing on good holds and mostly permanent gear. Lots of link-ups and crossing lines exist, with groups of climbs finishing on shared anchors. If you're from out of town it's good to talk to a local that knows the routes so you don't get the harder lines confused. Most of the routes have the name painted at the base.

Limit. de l'accès hérité de Cheile Turzii

From Cluj-Napoca (airport available) take E60 road to Turda (around 25 km). From Turda there are two possibilities:

  1. Take DN75 road to Campeni. 7 km after passing Mihai Viteazu turn right towards Cheia village. Pass through the village and continue until you’ll see the gorge (east entrance).

  2. Take secondary road and drive towards Petreștii de Jos village. A short walk from the village will take you to the west entrance of Turzii Gorge.

Approche

Park in front of the Salvamont Hut across the small bridge, there is small lot to the left of the white building. If this is full you will have to pay 10 lei to park in the big private lot. GPS: (46.5602668, 23.6906879)

Walk past the hut taking the trail just behind it. Follow it uphill and at both intersections go right. Eventually you will come to an opening in a scree field. Continue across the scree to the woods after enjoying the view. There's a few more spots for pictures on the way. After another small opening with some rocks on the right, the trail will descend downhill for a second before turning sharply uphill for the last part until you finally reach the cave. Total approach time 20-30 minutes. GPS: (46.5623940, 23.6820760)

Où dormir

Camping 1 minute away before heading up the road out of the gorge. Lots of airbnb's and rentals in Turda (20 min) and Cluj-Napoca (45 min).

Éthique

Keep the cave clean for everyone's enjoyment! Don't litter in the cave. Don't use the bathroom in the cave. No fires in the cave.

Voies

Ajouter une(des) voie(s) Ajouter un topo Réorganiser Éditer en masse Cotations converties
Cotation Voie

Currently the furthest-left route, outside the cave. This route will be the first one you see when walking up. Greasy, hard start leads to some weird techiness on choss before an easier finish.

Kind of goofy, on brittle rock. Shares anchors with Zeliko.

A pumpy warmup with a bit of polish at the start. Harder than it looks!

Équip.: Adrian Munteanu & Florin Apahidean, 2002

Équip.: Adrian Munteanu & Romică Crişan, 2002

Équip.: Adrian Munteanu, 2002

FA: Dan Roşca, 2012

Équip.: Adrian Munteanu & Mihai Horváth, 2002

Extension of Ursaru. Follows the prominent chalked arête with a hard boulder problem.

FA: Rosca Radu Razvan, 2011

Équip.: Dan Roşca & Horaţiu Dicoi, 2011

Équip.: Romică Crişan, 1996

Équip.: Romică Crişan, 2008

Équip.: Romică Crişan, 1996

Équip.: Cosmin Poduţ & Romică Crişan, 2002

Équip.: Romică Crişan, 1995

FA: Ovidiu Pop & Romică Crişan, 2002

Hardest of the three that share anchors. For a proper pumpy warmup run all three starting with Tinu and TR the other two without stopping.

Équip.: Romică Crişan, 1996

A nice line that's a little. bit harder than Tinu Ceave.

Équip.: Adrian Munteanu & Ovidiu Pop, 2002

Don't let the depressing look of this line fool you, it's pretty sweet. Locate the name on the left side of the cave up on the platform, on the mossy back wall facing outwards toward the exit. Shares anchors with Dric and Rostaş.

Équip.: Romică Crişan, 1996

A different style of line with a technical start. When you reach the roof you can either traverse into Bulibasa to the right (easier) or stem up and left and traverse the far wall going left, eventually finishing on the same anchors (harder).

FA: Romică Crişan, 1995

Thuggy, juggy, and just lots of fun. The best warmup in the cave. Traditionally traverses right when you get to the upper bit. You can also go left and around the backside of the roof though, making it a bit harder and longer.

FA: Romică Crişan, 1994

Not the best bolting

FA: Romică Crişan, 1996

Équip.: Romică Crişan & Cosmin Poduţ, 2002

Équip.: Romică Crişan, 1996

A continuation of the Ciricli route through a part of Lautaru and then through all the heavy movements in Rudaru. It is definitely harder than Rudaru.

FA: Cristian Man

Équip.: Adorján Nagy & Romică Crişan, 2010

A long roof with long moves mainly on good holds. Many possibilities for knee-bars and heel hooks.

Équip.: Romică Crişan, 1996

FA: Romeo Chira, 2009

The most classic route at the grade here. A beautiful overhanging endurance line. This line joins a few others near the top. Have a local show you which permadraws to use so you don't go the wrong way.

Équip.: Romică Crişan, 1994

FA: Marius Oniga, 2001

When most of the routes are damp this one will be dry.

Équip.: Romică Crişan, 2002

An absolute classic. THE must-do line in the cave at the grade.

Équip.: Romică Crişan, 1994

Équip.: Romică Crişan & Călin Popa, 1995

Équip.: Romică Crişan & Călin Popa, 1995

FA: Imre Sedevi, 2001

Équip.: Adorján Nagy, 2010

Équip.: Radu Răzvan Roşca & Dan Roşca, 2010

FA: Dan Roşca, 2011

From Dan Rosca: It was an absorbing project first envisioned in 2011, when this side of the wall had no routes on it. It has different layers of beauty and difficulty: You start with Titrus, reach its top, then with no rest or intro move, you literary "launch" into a hard morpho sequence that connects the line with the roof of Chedeino all the way to the top of Bulibasa. Coming from the ground makes the upper crux a totally different story, this stopper move being at the almost limit of my arm-span. Having to propose an alpha numerical rating for a piece of rock can sometimes be tricky but at 8c the route's difficulty is fairly obvious (outside feedback also from Enzo Oddo and Seb Bugnon).

FA: Dan Roşca, 2018

Follow the first 6 bolts of Titrus then make a wicked move to join Şucaru. Finishes at the master anchor shared by Bulibasa, Rudaru, etc.

FA: Dan Roşca, 2014

An interesting traverse line that starts way in the back of the front mini-cave on the right. Watch where you belay, there's a massive hole with a nasty drop where it starts. Finishes on the same anchors at Tambal.

Équip.: Călin Popa & Lucian Farcaş, 1995

Gymnastic, juggy, and awesome. This line traverses the most-inside line of bolts on the roof of the right mini-cave near the front, finishing on the low anchors to the left of the start of Titrus, about 5 meters up. There is currently a red permadraw on it. This route is worth trying just for insane roof arch crux which is a style you usually only see in a gym.

While the climbing is great, it does not get much attention since it is low to the ground with spacey bolting. If you are solid at the grade, you have nothing to worry about with a tight catch as the falls swing you outward and away from the higher platform. Bring a kneepad or two.

FA: Romică Crişan, 1995

Starts on Tambal and ends on Mondialu. Super aesthetic movements with one good rest in 30 meters.

FA: Maria Stefania Ionel, 2014

Super steep, short powerful moves. Ends on the 4th permadraw.

FA: Ionel Ene

Équip.: Romică Crişan, 1995

An extension of Ocarina. Overhanging bouldery moves. Power Endurance!

FA: Radu Răzvan Roşca & Dan Roşca, 2010

A world-class line. Do Sucarina then continue the beef into Chedeino.

A full-body workout!

FA: Romică Crişan, 1994

FA: Imre Sedevi, 2001

Starts on Coviltir and continues onto the roof of Chedeino.

FA: Dan Roşca, 2016

Équip.: Adorján Nagy & Romică Crişan, 2010

FA: Adorján Nagy & Romică Crişan, 2010

Équip.: Florin Daneliuc, 2011

Currently the furthest right route, outside the cave. Traverses above the lip of the cave to the left. Takes a very long time to dry after rain. Crucial pockets stay wet for a while.

FA: Rosca Radu Razvan, 2015

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