Ascensions dans Peştera Ungurească

Awesome starter 8a

Nu e sandbagged, oameni buni. Te pui cum trebe pe picioare si e bine. Is saritori mai spurcate pe 1Buri.

Clepsidra aia tho. Duamne.

Small grades that feel like big grades. I love this damn crag.

Shit like that makes me think sportclimbing might be fun after all. The calf hook under the top is unreal. Haven't seen a hold like that since my last Pap smear )

Absolutely stunning route, worked on it last winter and came back to finish it off

Greasiness on the start and choss in the middle doesn't lend itself to an easy onsight. Pretty average, and not a fun warmup.

5.12a/b, 2nd try. This rig climbs like the kickass V5 in the gym that everyone gets in line for. Incredibly demanding 3D moves on big holds. Make sure you got the guns for it because the runouts between the first 3 bolts are definitely committing but with a tight belay you shouldn’t hit the deck. I found multiple kneebars with both legs, some essential for the route, others for resting. Save something for the anchor!

Definitely harder than the other two to the right. A few demanding and pumpy moves. After running the other two back to back this one took a little out of me on the third lap. Felt 5.9+\5.10a, a little more hold-searching and core tension required

Honestly can’t remember if this felt easier or harder than Tinu. Fun juggy climbing but dirty. Maybe 5.7/5.8.

Maybe a 5.8/5.9? 5a/b in French? I loathe the UIAA system. This route climbs great but is super dirty. We ran this then the two to the left on TR after for one long warmup. Pumpy.

Holy tits this was SO good. It's the easier version of Mo Prala. Huge jugs the entire way, and a sneaky right kneebar down low. A great litmus test to see if you're fit for the harder routes in the cave. Probably 5.10b (6a+/6b), though it's way longer than Auraru, I think Auraru had harder and crimpier moves.

Incredible three-dimensional climbing. The holds are amazing the whole way, and the hardest (longest) move is between bolts 1 and 2. Multiple kneebars, both knees. Felt about 5.11c, or 6c+. Permadraws are in good condition. It's worth hiking here just for this line!

First route in Romania! Onsight felt about 5.10b/c. Pumpy at the top!

Perfect example why UIAA grading should not be used for sport climbing. At least a 5c/6a, if not more, but yes, it has big holds and a lot of them so by UIAA grading it is a 4. Doesn't reflect how hard it is though, because the steepness and the not so great top clipping hold doesn't affect the UIAA grade.

Un 6b cinstit, cățărat cu prima jumătate udă

2nd Go

bailed just before the top, too pumped and tired, totally unfit for overhangs after a week of strength training

first attempt at overhanging style in years, need to work on that endurance

2nd Go

After the crux (first 4-5 bolts) I climbed on the current bulibașa (not knowing the actual line)

2nd Go

After the crux (first 4-5 bolts) I climbed on the current bulibașa (not knowing the actual line)

2nd Go

Soft

2nd Go

retroflash after 1year

2nd Go

Didn't even bother finishing the route. Dirty and wet.

Due to rain, went to the cave. Very tired. Didn't feel so well.